Zruralracer

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

I decided this would be the weekend to do my header installation. I have run into some problems and wanted to get some advice for anyone willing to help me out. First off how the heck do you get the rubber hoses off of the coolant pipe? I got the front two off because they are easy to access but the on towards the back and on the bottom are giving me trouble. Second I slightly stripped a bolt on the LH header and wanted to know if anyone could recommend what I should use to help grab it and get it off (home depot is very very close to where I live). Any other tips would be appreciated hopefully I can get this all done by Monday or I will be taking my bicycle to work....which would be some good exercise and all but I really would like to drive

Zruralracer

iTrader: (1)

Well I am checking in for an update. The passenger side header is off, unfortunately I misunderstood some of the installation guides that I was reading and now have to switch exhaust manifold stud locations for the HR header. My main problem is finding the tool that unscrews those bolts. I have a feeling it will probably be special order and that I am now going to be riding my bike to work (5-6 miles) however gotta make sure to pack my work clothes as the office probably won't be too keen on me smelling like a heap of man while I am there. Anyway the demon bolt on the back side of the driver side header still refuses to move so I may have to just pray that I don't strip out the stud itself when trying to get it out but I think that will solve my problem. I also ended up cutting the heater hose to get the darn cooling pipe out of there because that thing was HARD to do. Whoever said go play the lottery if this installation goes without a hitch for you was not kidding. Probably gonna order some new hoses and replacement bolt while I try to find a stud removing tool.

tcode

iTrader: (7)

Use two nuts, tight them together and unbolt that DIN 835 stud with upper nut.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Small 12 point socket, don't remember the size , I just pulled it off my socket rack.

Zruralracer

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys thanks for the advice. I will be trying that tomorrow as it is raining today. I ended up getting ordering one of those special stud remover tools and some extra bolts, nuts, and a new heater hose (because I cut mine) from Z1 motorsports. After I get these darn things on I will be getting a post dyno and put my results up for everyone.

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

The coolant hoses at the firewall were impossible for me to disconnect. If you can't disconnect it where you want it, then all you have to do is follow it until you find another clamp and disconnect there.

As for taking a stud out, I would use a combination of 2 methods: 2 nut method and the proper way with torx socket. If the stud is stuck in the block, this will allow for easiest removal.

PercisionDriver

iTrader: (1)

Hey! I'm amidst the same project! I have a back up car i'm using though; also, i'm swapping to Stillens on an HR. I guess it depends on which headers you swap too, cause I didn't have to remove any of the cooling system. This was one of the major hang ups I had before going into it. You probably have it figured out by now, but a flex head ratchet (3/8 and 1/2) and every conceivable type of 14mm wrench saved me. I got the headers in and buttoned up, but I'm also doing my clutch/fw while i'm down there. To torque the headers in at least close to spec, I set a torque wrench to the specified torque, and familiarized myself with the force necessary to hit that spec, even in odd positions (haha). Trans goes in today, I hope.

Zruralracer

iTrader: (1)

I FINALLY GOT IT OFF WOOO! I think the residents around my house might have thought another world cup game was going on because I let out a huge yell of excitement when it came off. I took some tape and put it around the bolt that was stripped. Fitted my 14mm 12 point wrench on top of it and then put another bolt on top of the wrench and torqued it down. I then proceeded to take my longest close ended wrench and wedge the bottom of the circular side in the open end of the 14mm on the bolt. I then used the Jeremy Clarkson "Jezza" approach and hammered away furiously re-tightening the top holding bolt occasionally till that **** came off.

I will probably cut off the other part of the heater hose if I can't get it off normally because I got some new shiny ones from Z1 motorsport in blue today along with some extra header studs and bolts.

I also got a stud removal tool from amazon which made switching out the studs on the passenger side header a breeze. All that is left now is to tighten everything down re-install the cooling pipe, heat shields, air intake, and put my plenum bolts back in (because I thought about taking it off and decided against it and am very glad I did).

I would also be doing a flywheel swap, however I wanted to get my post dyno results at Z1 sometime this weekend unless they aren't open and then it is next week so that I can definitely let you all know if HR headers are worth the pain and hassle of installing on the 350z. Then again I also am installing berk test pipes with them (I don't deal with emissions haha). I probably will make a quick tip write-up for the HR header install just so people know what to not waste time on. My time waster was that coolant pipe, and stripped bolt. I wish I had known the two tricks I had used on friday because my life would have become much easier.

In other news however I am becoming extremely fit riding my bike 11 miles everyday to get too and from work so I guess that is a bonus. Anyway thanks for the input guys! I will try to post some pics for reference purposes in case anyone else is suffering from these problems.

PercisionDriver

iTrader: (1)

I hope it is worth while cause I'm going to have a set for sale, posted up within the next few days.