Clutch will not disengage smoothly!
03-23-2015, 12:54 PM
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Clutch will not disengage smoothly!
I bought a 2004 350z last October. At the time, the previous owner said a "stage 2" clutch had been installed. I can't tell if they were telling me the truth, but I have noticed a very annoying intermittent problem with the clutch pedal. On some days (temperature seems to matter but it has happened on both hot and cold days), the clutch seems to "squeak" or become sticky while being released which causes a problem especially in 1st gear where the jerkiness sometimes almost makes me stall. It will move smoothly for a little while at which point it kindof "sticks" and then after i lift my foot more releases in a very jerky manner. It's similar to a really squeaky door that doesn't move smoothly but rather moves in a series of small jerks while being opened. As you can imagine, it makes starting in 1st gear really difficult.
Anyone else have this issue/know what could possibly be causing it? One of the most annoying problems I have ever experienced and ruins the driving experience whenever it happens.
Anyone else have this issue/know what could possibly be causing it? One of the most annoying problems I have ever experienced and ruins the driving experience whenever it happens.
03-23-2015, 01:40 PM
#2
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I'll take a shot. I had a similar, but common issue. The clutch pedal wouldn't retrack all the way back up when hot. Insulating the entire clutch line helped.
Generally, the pressure plate will spring back up against the TOB, and push the clutch fork back, compressing the slave-cylinder piston back into the slave cylinder. The pressure will push and extend the master-cylinder rod, effectively pushing the clutch pedal back into position.
First, you need to make sure you clutch pedal has enough play, and retracts far enough back to expose the small hole to draw in fluid from the reservoir. Look at the master cylinder piston under the dash, and make sure it isn't pressed in at all, and you have some petal play via the cotter pin. If there is no unusal amount of resistance during the entire range of depressing the pedal, you may have:
- A leak master cylinder piston/seal.
Improperly adjusted clutch pedal (not retracting far enough to expose the reservoir hole).
- Air in the system, or water which possibly boils in the hardline next to the exhaust.
A good test here is to make sure the pedal is fully released, clutch reservoir cap open, and then just lightly crack open the bleeder valve. If a constant, but slow stream of fluid runs out, your clutch pedal could be properly adjusted (although, I would check it anyway). I would ensure the res is full, and let it drain for a few minutes incase any air wants to come out.
If you feel strange resistances when depressing the clutch, you should first check the above, but then you may have pressure plate issues, or slave clinder issues, but most likely a pedal issue (if hot or cold).
- Check for a binding clutch pedal first. I had no idea how sensative this part was. If the previous owner improperly adjusted the clutch pedal, you can snap that spring or one of the spring cups under the pedal. That's what happened to me when I stupidly adjusted my pedal, and It provided a simliar experience as yours. I removed the spring until I got a new pedal. (That spring is crucial, however, else the weight of the pedal itself will put constant, slight pressure on the TOB). Adjust it to FSM specs, and ensure the weep hole connecting to the master cylinder reservoir is exposed when the clutch pedal is fully released.
I would suggest you purchase a SS clutchline, and a master cylinder rebuild kit anyway. Heatwrap the lines while installing all of these items. Get some valvoline blue, and this will cancel out a bad master cyilnder, air and steam in the lines. Remember to lossen the hardline connection at the master cylinder when bleeding, otherwise you will be cycling air around inside the lines. After that, bleeding is a breeze, and sometimes simply requires cracking the bleeder valve open on the slave cylinder and grabbing a beer.
When bleeding, sometimes you need to use a c-clamp to get the last bit of air out of the slave. Do all of this and pray it's not a pressure plate failure, like I had.
Generally, the pressure plate will spring back up against the TOB, and push the clutch fork back, compressing the slave-cylinder piston back into the slave cylinder. The pressure will push and extend the master-cylinder rod, effectively pushing the clutch pedal back into position.
First, you need to make sure you clutch pedal has enough play, and retracts far enough back to expose the small hole to draw in fluid from the reservoir. Look at the master cylinder piston under the dash, and make sure it isn't pressed in at all, and you have some petal play via the cotter pin. If there is no unusal amount of resistance during the entire range of depressing the pedal, you may have:
- A leak master cylinder piston/seal.
Improperly adjusted clutch pedal (not retracting far enough to expose the reservoir hole).
- Air in the system, or water which possibly boils in the hardline next to the exhaust.
A good test here is to make sure the pedal is fully released, clutch reservoir cap open, and then just lightly crack open the bleeder valve. If a constant, but slow stream of fluid runs out, your clutch pedal could be properly adjusted (although, I would check it anyway). I would ensure the res is full, and let it drain for a few minutes incase any air wants to come out.
If you feel strange resistances when depressing the clutch, you should first check the above, but then you may have pressure plate issues, or slave clinder issues, but most likely a pedal issue (if hot or cold).
- Check for a binding clutch pedal first. I had no idea how sensative this part was. If the previous owner improperly adjusted the clutch pedal, you can snap that spring or one of the spring cups under the pedal. That's what happened to me when I stupidly adjusted my pedal, and It provided a simliar experience as yours. I removed the spring until I got a new pedal. (That spring is crucial, however, else the weight of the pedal itself will put constant, slight pressure on the TOB). Adjust it to FSM specs, and ensure the weep hole connecting to the master cylinder reservoir is exposed when the clutch pedal is fully released.
I would suggest you purchase a SS clutchline, and a master cylinder rebuild kit anyway. Heatwrap the lines while installing all of these items. Get some valvoline blue, and this will cancel out a bad master cyilnder, air and steam in the lines. Remember to lossen the hardline connection at the master cylinder when bleeding, otherwise you will be cycling air around inside the lines. After that, bleeding is a breeze, and sometimes simply requires cracking the bleeder valve open on the slave cylinder and grabbing a beer.
When bleeding, sometimes you need to use a c-clamp to get the last bit of air out of the slave. Do all of this and pray it's not a pressure plate failure, like I had.
Last edited by Bigsyke; 03-23-2015 at 01:42 PM.
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