Reuster86

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I recently bought an '06 350Z Enthusiast. Previous owner installed a 3.9 final drive in the factory VLSD. Awesome, but not legal for the autocross class I'm running. So, I bought a used VLSD for it with 3.5 final drive, and began to swap the pumpkins. Mine came out easy, and the other went in without issue. I was beginning to bolt everything back together when I realized the wheel speed sensor on the passenger side wasn't lining up correctly, as if the output flange was sticking out a little too far. I also noticed some oil around the shaft of the output flange, which I hadn't noticed on any of the others. So, I gave it a tug, and sure enough, it seems to be floating freely in and out of the diff carrier.







What does this mean? Is it broken? Can it be reattached without opening up the diff? Any idea how this could have happened? I guess my best option is to return it, but I want to make sure it wasn't something I did that broke it.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Pull it out, replace the $2 snap ring , go from there

Reuster86

iTrader: (1)

I've looked at a Nissan diagram, but I'm not exactly sure where the snap ring is that you're talking about. Will it require opening up the differential to fix it? If so, I don't want to get in over my head.

monkey7

Look at 38225+A, bottom right of diagram, I'm making a good guess after watching several how to install a differential videos.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Exactly, and all you need to do is pop the stub shaft all the way out to swap it.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Make sure to torque the CV shaft bolts too. One of yours is loose.

Reuster86

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the answers guys. Sounds like maybe I can handle this myself. A few things I'm still not sure about though:

-Any idea how this could have happened? Does it indicate misuse or other possible damage? Keep in mind this is a used diff I just bought on eBay, and if this loose axle stub suggests more problems, I'd just assume return it.

-When I pull out the passenger side axle stub, should I assume the old snap ring will come out with it? If I pull it out and it's not there, I guess I'd have to remove the diff cover and fish it out?

-I found a note in the FSM. Does this suggest I actually need to remove the Driver side axle stub also, just so I can reinstall them in the correct order? "NOTE: Install the RH side flange, then install the LH side flange. If LH
side flange is installed first, the RH side flange comes out sometimes
from the shock of installing the RH side flange. [For
R200V (with LSD)]"

-I've been referring to the "Side Oil Seal" instructions in the FSM. It's the best description of removing the side flanges that I can find. Basically what I'm getting from it is: Yank out passenger side axle stub, yank out driver side axle stub (I don't have a slide hammer, but hoping I can find some other way to pry them out). Replace snap ring on passenger side axle stub (assuming the old one comes out with it), reinsert, hope the oil seal doesn't get marred up because I don't have the special tool, then bang it in until the "sound changes". Do the same with the driver side axle stub. Am I missing anything important?

Page 15: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2006/rfd.pdf

Btw, CV shaft bolts are only finger-tight in photos because I was in the process of installing.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

If it is anything like changing them on a FWD car you can either grab it and pull it straight out or use a pry bar to pull it out. Seeing how it is already slipping out you should be able to pull it out by hand. Put a new circlip on it and push it back in. Might take a little effort but it should "click" into place as the circlip pops into it's groove.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

If the clip is missing when you pull it out I would personally pull the drain plug and see if the pieces come out, if not I would pull the cover and clean the diff out.

I would rather spend some money on oil and silicone than take the chance on having a piece of metal get in the gears.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I've popped Stubbs out with a pry bar or mallet. But if it's loose, it will come right out.


Fluid will not leak out, just pull it. If it's missing , it was not installed. There is no way it can come apart and fall into the diff. Chances are its weak or missing. Maybe even not properly seated

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Good to know. I've never been inside ours so I wasn't sure.

Reuster86

iTrader: (1)

Right on Terrasmak, just pulled the axle stub, and there is no snap ring. I bought this diff used on eBay. Should I assume it came this way from factory, or someone before me has worked on it? Was it driveable this way?

Reuster86

iTrader: (1)

Installed snap ring in the only place that seemed logical. It's pretty loose though. Normal?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Normal, and sometimes a pain to snap into the carrier because of it.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Supposed to fit loose. It will compress as you push the stub into place, then expand back out into the groove it fits in in the diff. That's what keeps it from pulling out like yours has been doing.

Time for some education. It can help prevent confusion in the future, especially when you go to a parts store.

This is an Internal snap ring. It is used to retain stuff inside a hole. It will fit into a groove on the inside of a hole.




This is an external snap ring. It will go in a groove on the outside of a shaft to keep it from pulling through a hole.



This is a circlip which you guys have been calling a snap ring. It is used as described above on our axle stubs. It will compress to fit through an opening, then expand back out into the groove designed for it to help retain something from falling out when you can't access it to install a snap ring.




I was a parts guy for 4 years and it is a pet peeve of mine when people use incorrect terminology. If they don't have the part for you to see then it becomes more of a hassle than it should be trying to figure out what they want. Especially with the inbred hillbillies around here...