Timing Chain, and tensioner replacement
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Timing Chain, and tensioner replacement
Alright so eventually I plan on tackling the timing chain(s) and tensioner(s) before the winter hits. Not trying to be out in the butt a** cold doing a timing chain...
I know the car needs it because it has the cold start symptoms/sounds that all the other VQ's i've seen with this problem make. Plus she's got 133k on the clock now so I suppose it can't hurt. I know the chains last the life of the vehicle. But why chance it when you already got it opened up?
Anyways...I went to Nissan this morning and had the parts guy make a list of parts that I will be needing to do the job right. I wanted to see if anyone else could verify that this is the right list, and is not missing anything. He wouldn't give me any part numbers(which I thought was odd lol), but when I do get them I will post for future reference.
Main Chain - $120.67
Secondary Chains - $120.67 (x2) anyone else think its retarded that the secondaries are just as much as the main? Yeah me too...
Main Tensioner - $88.03
Secondary Tensioner - 88.03 (x2)
Main Guide - $61.02
2nd Guide - $32.95
____________________________________________________________
$720.07
Anything missing here?
I know the car needs it because it has the cold start symptoms/sounds that all the other VQ's i've seen with this problem make. Plus she's got 133k on the clock now so I suppose it can't hurt. I know the chains last the life of the vehicle. But why chance it when you already got it opened up?
Anyways...I went to Nissan this morning and had the parts guy make a list of parts that I will be needing to do the job right. I wanted to see if anyone else could verify that this is the right list, and is not missing anything. He wouldn't give me any part numbers(which I thought was odd lol), but when I do get them I will post for future reference.
Main Chain - $120.67
Secondary Chains - $120.67 (x2) anyone else think its retarded that the secondaries are just as much as the main? Yeah me too...
Main Tensioner - $88.03
Secondary Tensioner - 88.03 (x2)
Main Guide - $61.02
2nd Guide - $32.95
____________________________________________________________
$720.07
Anything missing here?
#2
If i remember correctly, you have to take off the valve covers. I always reuse the gaskets and haven't had leaks but just a fyi. Also, if you're talking about losing oil pressure (the noise on start up?) check the cover behind the timing chains. Sometimes you'll see the paper gaskets falling apart and that would kill the oil pressure going to the head. Never seen it on a z but a few other nissans i have.
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terrasmak (08-25-2015)
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
If i remember correctly, you have to take off the valve covers. I always reuse the gaskets and haven't had leaks but just a fyi. Also, if you're talking about losing oil pressure (the noise on start up?) check the cover behind the timing chains. Sometimes you'll see the paper gaskets falling apart and that would kill the oil pressure going to the head. Never seen it on a z but a few other nissans i have.
Lol, you re-use the VCG's? Aren't they like 15-20 bucks? Kinda seems silly to risk after doing all that work no? I could see if they were 50 bucks or something but they're pretty cheap for this car luckily.
But no, I don't lose oil pressure. There is just a quick clunky kinda sound when it's cold. And it doesn't always do it, but its definitely there. Sounds like it's coming from behind the cover too.
#4
New Member
Never reuse gaskets. Also it's the sealant type so make sure to scrape off all the old stuff.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I know some cars they can get freakin' pricey...which is especially annoying when you know it's just a gasket...but that little gasket can make your life a living hell...funny though that he hasn't had any leaks or anything tho lol! Shows what we know
#6
New Member
Well i have done some retros. With that you open headlights and if your cheap you can reuse the sealant without adding any, if your cheap
I'd rather do something once then risk it
I'd rather do something once then risk it
#7
Would the water pump be a good idea while you are in there? You can also look up the parts/buy them on Curtsy Nissan. Looks like the chains are ~90 on the website so the other parts are probably less also.
Last edited by rancor; 08-25-2015 at 06:42 PM.
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#8
New Member
Yes you might as well do the water pump at the same time. And your thermo
#9
Jesus, your welcome jackass. Buy the oem service manuel and learn a thing or two about your car. You dont need to replace your valve cover gasket.... you know, the thing you didn't price out.
#10
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
On top of that, the tensioners do a pretty good job of removing any slack even with an elongated timing chain.
I would absolutely replace your water pump, your oil pump and the valve cover gaskets - it sounds like money isnt a concern...
I didnt replace my valve cover gaskets the last time my engine was out of my car - but my valve covers don't leak.
Does the OP intend to do this with the engine in the car? You gotta pull the block to get the upper oil pan off, right?
OP should also inspect the VTC assemblies - ensure the pin isnt giving out...
may want to replace the cam position sensors, possibly the engine position sensor (in the tranny bell).
If I was ambitious, I would take the heads off, have them machined and do head gaskets as well. would freshen up spark plugs and injectors while I was that deep in the engine.
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AP350z223 (08-26-2015)
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
I wouldnt automatically assume the 'clunky' sound is a stretched timing chain. The tensioners are spring loaded and driven by oil pressure. Furthermore, on a cold start (low oil pressure) the tensioners are not going to be at full force which may allow a little slack in the chain...
On top of that, the tensioners do a pretty good job of removing any slack even with an elongated timing chain.
I would absolutely replace your water pump, your oil pump and the valve cover gaskets - it sounds like money isnt a concern...
I didnt replace my valve cover gaskets the last time my engine was out of my car - but my valve covers don't leak.
Does the OP intend to do this with the engine in the car? You gotta pull the block to get the upper oil pan off, right?
OP should also inspect the VTC assemblies - ensure the pin isnt giving out...
may want to replace the cam position sensors, possibly the engine position sensor (in the tranny bell).
If I was ambitious, I would take the heads off, have them machined and do head gaskets as well. would freshen up spark plugs and injectors while I was that deep in the engine.
On top of that, the tensioners do a pretty good job of removing any slack even with an elongated timing chain.
I would absolutely replace your water pump, your oil pump and the valve cover gaskets - it sounds like money isnt a concern...
I didnt replace my valve cover gaskets the last time my engine was out of my car - but my valve covers don't leak.
Does the OP intend to do this with the engine in the car? You gotta pull the block to get the upper oil pan off, right?
OP should also inspect the VTC assemblies - ensure the pin isnt giving out...
may want to replace the cam position sensors, possibly the engine position sensor (in the tranny bell).
If I was ambitious, I would take the heads off, have them machined and do head gaskets as well. would freshen up spark plugs and injectors while I was that deep in the engine.
You got some good ideas though. Think I'm going to add cam sensor, crank sensor, and fuel injectors to the list as well. I thought about doing the heads and everything to be honest...if I did something like that though, I would remove the motor. Which I really don't want to do. Just curious though, how long and how much does it suck to remove? Maybe if I can save enough money before winter I'll do something like that...doubt it though.
I do intend on doing it in the car though. I will be removing the radiator, fan assembly, and bumper to gain better access to the timing chain cover. Gonna be a major PITA that's for sure...not excited one bit lol. I've done timing belts before and none of them are fun for that matter...but this one really looks like a b****.
#12
New Member
Not sure if he was trolling or not. I think he is trolling though
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Maybe...
Thought about it honestly. I'm really asking a simple question though...and there is no need for that crap...Never said I'm doing this 100% but I do want to know what's involved/required so I can prepare myself. I mentioned I still have troubleshooting to do...but from what I've gathered it's pointing at the tensioners. If it's that much trouble to ask a question like this maybe I should find a new forum?
That wasn't directed at you HR...but I have been going through some threads and there is a lot of bashing going around this place. Not trying to get caught up in all that...just want sound advice, and insight...if you think I'm stupid, or don't agree with what I'm doing just say so, or keep it moving. Don't waste my time, and I won't waste yours. No need for the sarcastic b/s.
Last edited by AP350z223; 08-26-2015 at 08:13 AM.
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AP350z223 (08-26-2015)
#15
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Thread Starter
He was talking about bealjk...and I did appreciate your advice dude...I just don't agree with re-using gasket...especially valve cover gaskets....never had luck with it. I didn't read the shop manual for this car, and don't know if it says that or not. But for 20 bucks a gasket I'll be changing them for piece of mind. Sorry if I offended you.
Last edited by AP350z223; 08-26-2015 at 06:59 PM.
#16
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
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AP350z223 (08-26-2015)
#17
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iTrader: (2)
I wouldnt automatically assume the 'clunky' sound is a stretched timing chain. The tensioners are spring loaded and driven by oil pressure. Furthermore, on a cold start (low oil pressure) the tensioners are not going to be at full force which may allow a little slack in the chain...
On top of that, the tensioners do a pretty good job of removing any slack even with an elongated timing chain.
I would absolutely replace your water pump, your oil pump and the valve cover gaskets - it sounds like money isnt a concern...
I didnt replace my valve cover gaskets the last time my engine was out of my car - but my valve covers don't leak.
Does the OP intend to do this with the engine in the car? You gotta pull the block to get the upper oil pan off, right?
OP should also inspect the VTC assemblies - ensure the pin isnt giving out...
may want to replace the cam position sensors, possibly the engine position sensor (in the tranny bell).
If I was ambitious, I would take the heads off, have them machined and do head gaskets as well. would freshen up spark plugs and injectors while I was that deep in the engine.
On top of that, the tensioners do a pretty good job of removing any slack even with an elongated timing chain.
I would absolutely replace your water pump, your oil pump and the valve cover gaskets - it sounds like money isnt a concern...
I didnt replace my valve cover gaskets the last time my engine was out of my car - but my valve covers don't leak.
Does the OP intend to do this with the engine in the car? You gotta pull the block to get the upper oil pan off, right?
OP should also inspect the VTC assemblies - ensure the pin isnt giving out...
may want to replace the cam position sensors, possibly the engine position sensor (in the tranny bell).
If I was ambitious, I would take the heads off, have them machined and do head gaskets as well. would freshen up spark plugs and injectors while I was that deep in the engine.
I wouldn't do any of this crap.
If you have to replace all that much chit on a vq35 I'd just get another longblock. 2.5k And you'll get one with decent miles for sure. Will be cheaper than fixing a bunch of chit, because at the end of the day, your bearings, thrust/main/rod, and rings are all 133k miles. Honestly dude just drive the thing into the ground, or do a cheap fix. Don't throw thousands and thousands in parts alone at it.
Like pulling the engine for upper pan, replacing this sensor, that sensor, re-sealing the rear timing cover? WTF. Why would you ever reseal the rear timing cover? RTV lasts for ever, and unless you cracked something, or didn't get it quite right the first time, it's not necessary to reseal that. For the chain, getting a new tension-er is cool, but not totally necessary. Sometimes the noise is just because the main tension-er guide is worn out (rubber wears away). That tensioner as stated earlier is pushed tight by oil pressure too, so it doesn't mysteriously go bad (usually). As long as the chain is straight, you really shouldn't have any worries.
But in the chance that it is your tensioner, just get a new one, replace the chain to be safe. You should be fine just removing the front cover. Timing chain install/replacement it's self isn't bad. It's all the prep work to get at the front cover that's annoying. Just make sure you're at TDC1. The vq35 is pretty clear about where to line up the chains. Just double check it, turn the bish over by hand (leave the car out of gear) and make sure you're hearing good noises. DON'T check it with the starter. If you do it by hand, and you're not the freaking hulk with a 10 foot breaker bar, you'll get piston/valve interference guaranteed if it's off. Just turn it over like two full times, in case the gear slips the chain a tiny amount (not likely, but measure twice cut once kind of deal).
And yes this forum is full of bashing. Guys who were here pre 2010 bashed a lot, especially back in 2007 etc etc, because noobs would post stupid *** questions, and most of the time they were trolls. Other times they were idiots in 350z's. Now, because most 350z owners are fawking tools, people just bash because they think it's the cool thing to do. And every other thread on here is about more low, wheel/tire fitment. Because every other owner is an idjiot.
Notice how almost every single person in this thread joined in 2015? This is a really simple situation. There are a few ways to look at it.
As for the valve cover deal, the spark plug gasket is the thing that leaks. I doubt anyone's valve cover gasket will leak, as it's made to fit inside a groove on the valvecover, and is pressed down onto the head, quite tight by the screws around the valve cover. The spark plug gasket goes randomly. It went on my car when I reused the factory valve covers, and my plugs were drenched in oil. Only replace these when you have to. Buy all your parts from courtesy nissan (google it). They have by far consistently the best prices. I saved about $275 buying my new valve covers from them. If your spark plug gaskets ever do go out, buy both valve covers (they're usually over 200$, but when you buy them together, the second one is like $150 or something, I can't remember).
In general, if your car is running well, don't replace a bunch of bullchit. The water pump is something I'd say might be worth doing, but I'd recommend just taking a look at the seal when you have it apart. Some people the oem one just starts weeping as soon as the car sits, mine's been sitting FOREVER and it hasn't leaked yet (knock on wood).
Last edited by Resmarted; 08-26-2015 at 08:31 PM.
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AP350z223 (08-26-2015),
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#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lol!
Forget I mentioned it. It was just a coincidence because I initially thought the same as HR, and was like "nahhh he's totally serious..."
And then HR mentioned so it made me think for a second. Sorry about that dude.
Forget I mentioned it. It was just a coincidence because I initially thought the same as HR, and was like "nahhh he's totally serious..."
And then HR mentioned so it made me think for a second. Sorry about that dude.
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