Changing the Differential / Transmission Oil
10-08-2005, 05:07 PM
#41
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I use Amsoil in both my manual transmission and rear differential. I will be buying each of their lubes you mentioned for each specific purpose when it's time for another change.
There are more readily available options for the rear diff. If you don't have an Amsoil dealer nearby or want to wait for delivery, you can probably find Mobil 1 synthetic GL-5 in a local parts store.
There are more readily available options for the rear diff. If you don't have an Amsoil dealer nearby or want to wait for delivery, you can probably find Mobil 1 synthetic GL-5 in a local parts store.
10-08-2005, 05:20 PM
#42
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I will go with AMSOils I'm just not sure if I should get
this for the Dif:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx
or
this for the Dif:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agl.aspxhttp://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agl.aspx
this for the Dif:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx
or
this for the Dif:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agl.aspxhttp://www.amsoil.com/storefront/agl.aspx
10-08-2005, 05:25 PM
#43
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You could use either, but AGL would be preferred. That is the product recommended for the Z by Amsoil.
FGR is generally used for heavy trucks.
You could also use SVG, but, again, it is for severe service.
FGR is generally used for heavy trucks.
You could also use SVG, but, again, it is for severe service.
Last edited by Z'd; 10-08-2005 at 05:27 PM.
10-30-2005, 06:13 PM
#44
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just did mine differential today...oh man was that stuff dirty and the shavings on the plug well they kind of scare me but it seems like everyone seems to be witnessing the shavings.
i only drained a little over a quart from the differential but put in 8 ounces shy of 2 quarts before it started to come out of the fill hole.
overall a very easy thing to do, so i'll probably do it in 15k mile intervals just to keep everything clean.
thanks for the DIY thread...
i only drained a little over a quart from the differential but put in 8 ounces shy of 2 quarts before it started to come out of the fill hole.
overall a very easy thing to do, so i'll probably do it in 15k mile intervals just to keep everything clean.
thanks for the DIY thread...
10-31-2005, 07:03 AM
#45
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I did the Differential this weekend, used Mobil 1 and bought 2 qts. I did not jack it up. Oil removal was a snap, I figured that the long snout ont the replacement oil would do the trick **wrong**. I got 1 1/2 qts in using Bettys turkey baster, oil all over the place. GET A PUMP
07-14-2006, 12:32 PM
#52
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hmm
but manual says 75w90, and it says on amsoil's website that 75w90 will outperform 80w90. And is amsoil diff fluid better than redline or royal purple?
07-14-2006, 12:53 PM
#53
Originally Posted by jinsei888
The reason you should lift all 4 sides is because the car is supposed to be level when filling up the diff fluid. When the fluid dribbles out of diff fill hole up top, you want it to be level, otherwise, if you lift only the rear--assuming th car is not level to gravity--you'll be overfilling as you let the fluid dribble out; because the diff is at an angle forward. hope that helps
In this case it's actually better to have the front of the car slightly higher than the rear.
Good writeup!
07-29-2006, 07:56 AM
#56
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Don't think I'll take the chance, GL-5 it is.
Anyone know how much dealerships (on average) charge to do this procedure? I just bought 4 quarts of Pennzoil Synthetic GL-4 and 2 quarts of Valoline GL-5, which came out to about 60$, and $10 for Nissan crush washers, plus tools. Granted, now the tools are bought the job should be a little cheaper. I searched all over town for RP and Redline with no luck. In fact, the Pennzoil was the only GL-4 I could find within 25 miles of me, at the normal auto parts joints. I'm sure a little prior planning on my part would also bring the cost down.
As mentioned before, order your crush washers well ahead of your work, this didn't seem to be an item the the parts department kept on hand regularly, for public sale at least. I had to hit up 3 different dealership to get mine. Also, none of the parts store seem to have the exact type of crush washer as the Z uses, I found the same sizes, but they we're in bronze, vice the aluminum? that the Nissan ones are made of. I know just enough about chemistry to know you cant mix dissimilar metals, due to corrosion possibilities.
Anyone know how much dealerships (on average) charge to do this procedure? I just bought 4 quarts of Pennzoil Synthetic GL-4 and 2 quarts of Valoline GL-5, which came out to about 60$, and $10 for Nissan crush washers, plus tools. Granted, now the tools are bought the job should be a little cheaper. I searched all over town for RP and Redline with no luck. In fact, the Pennzoil was the only GL-4 I could find within 25 miles of me, at the normal auto parts joints. I'm sure a little prior planning on my part would also bring the cost down.
As mentioned before, order your crush washers well ahead of your work, this didn't seem to be an item the the parts department kept on hand regularly, for public sale at least. I had to hit up 3 different dealership to get mine. Also, none of the parts store seem to have the exact type of crush washer as the Z uses, I found the same sizes, but they we're in bronze, vice the aluminum? that the Nissan ones are made of. I know just enough about chemistry to know you cant mix dissimilar metals, due to corrosion possibilities.
Last edited by deviantZ; 07-29-2006 at 08:42 AM.
07-29-2006, 06:08 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by gringott
You may find this hard to believe, but I just got back from town, and the "Big 3" and a regular auto parts store did not have GL4, synthetic or otherwise. I am mail ordering, but that is just crazy.
I finished doing mine about an hour ago. I would definitely say that having a pump is a requirement. You might be able to get the lube into the differential, not no way your getting it into the tranny though without a pump.
I can tell that shifting is smoother, and I can actually, smoothly, get into 5th and 6th without waiting 2-3 secs for it to slide in.
