DIY - clutch install
12-18-2006, 07:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston Area
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DIY - clutch install
Had a couple of requests for a write-up on my clutch install, I never found one myself so I thought I’d get one started, so here goes…
Changing out a clutch in the 350z is not a small task although it is similar to most RWD cars. You’ll need your usual hand tools, preferably air tools, torque wrench, transmission jack, jack stands, a few special tools, etc… How quick and easy depends how mechanically inclined you are and how much effort your willing to invest.
If you mangle or botch the install it’s no one else’s fault but your own, having a shop do it will at least give you the option or path to a warranty claim. The going rate is about 300 – 500 dollars and the decision is up to you. I take no responsibility for any injuries or damages if you decide to do this yourself… with that being said here what needs to be done.
1. Secure vehicle with jack stands, I went as high as my jack could go. This is very important and probably the most crucial, people have been crushed, so be careful. Don’t do this on inclined driveway! I will say its bee-yotch lying on your back, wish I had a lift.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. I’m running the borla exhaust and I had to loosen it all up to let the driveshaft drop. I removed the first pieces/hpipe after the cats. Mine had seized and had to use some big pipe wrench vise grips to twist it loose. I imagine the stock exhaust removal should be much easier.
4. Remove the brace connecting the two cats, I also removed the passenger side o2 sensor to give me more room as I’m using those non-fouler extensions.
5. Remove driveshaft bolts and slide it out, set it aside.
6. Remove all electronic connectors, use a small flat head screwdriver like the ones used to tighten reading glasses. You don’t want to break any of the clips. Make sure you get all of cable management clips and brackets that are clipped on. Using curved needle nose pliers helps. You don’t want anything attached to the trans.
7. Remove the rear splash guard.
8. Remove starter bolts and move it out of the way leaving the cabling intact. (make sure the battery is disconnected, you don’t want a short here)
9. Remove the clutch master cylinder and move it to the side. Make a habit of putting the bolts back in place to help you remember where they all go.
10. Remove the shifter from inside the car, twist off the **** and after removing the plastic boot area cover remove all the bolts underneath. Go back under the car and remove the 12 mm bolt holding the shifter in place. It will pop out.
11. Remove the small sheet metal brace under the transmission.
12. Start loosening all the bolts to the engine. Make sure you can get to all of them, they will be tight. There was one bolt on top that required me to remove a small bracket that was in the way.
13. Once they are loose you can begin positioning the tranny jack, it was it a little tricky to actually tighten the band, its optional and it helps, just try your best. The center of gravity is towards the back of the transmission.
14. Begin removing the crossmember bolts; don’t let the transmission just hang by the input shaft.
15. Remove all the bolts and start pulling the transmission out. Again make sure nothing is attached. Be careful as you start lowering it as it could tilt back and begin dripping oil out the output shaft like it did onto me. Lower the trans all the way and it roll it back.
16. I used an impact wrench to remove the pressure plate bolts. Be careful and ready to catch it here as you don’t want it to fall on your face.
17. Using a t-55 torx bit remove the flywheel. I used the impact wrench again. This one is heavy too so be ready.
18. Now there is one small little piece left, the pilot bushing. Most clutch sets include this so you might as well change it. The service manual says to use a special tool, use it if you have it. I used an old trick to get this guy out, fill in the hole with some thick grease and with the clutch alignment tool begin tapping it into the hole, (I removed the plastic ring on mine). Eventually the pressure from the grease will pop it out.
19. Now go back to the transmission remove the retaining clip and remove the throwout bearing from the input shaft.
20. Use a gear puller to remove the bearing from the sleeve. Now here is the tricky part, I couldn’t figure out how to hold the center section of the puller in place. I just happen to find a thick washer that fit perfectly into the center of the sleeve.
21. Wipe off all the grease from the crankshaft to begin installing the pilot bushing. The pilot bushing is soft brass so care must be taken when taping it in. I used a socket and a rubber mallet. Make sure it feels smooth on the inside and that its pushed in straight all the way in.
22. Press the new throwout bearing on to the sleeve. The manual says to use a press, I used a vise, I flipped the serrated jaws to have a smooth surface to squeeze with. This is crucial, don’t mark up the bearing’s surface and make sure it goes on straight.
23. Install throwout bearing assembly on to the input shaft; use the clip to secure the clutch fork. I put a little grease on the bearing’s face, the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the splines and input shaft.
24. The JWT flywheel has two timing holes and was clearly marked which one to use on 350z. Make sure you use the right one, although its lighter than stock you don’t want to drop it on your face. Hand tighten all the bolts.
25. I don’t have the tool to prevent the flywheel from turning and resorted to using a ½ ratchet on the crank pulley with a long pipe/breaker bar holding it in place. If I had more time I’d invest or fab up something better. The pipe was touching the ground as I tightened the bolts to 90 foot lbs. I then followed the instructions to loosen, add red loctite and torque back down to 93 lbs.
26. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with some carburetor cleaner and some clean shop rags. You don’t want any and I repeat any type of grease or oil on the flywheel or pressure plate. Make sure it’s clean, put the clutch disk and hold it in place with the alignment tool.
27. Bolt on the pressure plate, it took a few attempts for me to guess where the alignment dowels go. There are other holes on the flywheel that will not work. Tighten down to 25 foot lbs, remove alignment tool.
28. Now the fun part, putting the transmission back in. It has to go straight in and you must be careful no to damage the pilot bushing. Twist it and push it in as much as possible, don’t bang it in, be patient. If the transmission is gear try turning the output shaft or turn the engine over with a ratchet to try and get the splines to line up. I couldn’t push mine all the way in but I made sure the splines were in before I began to bolt it up. I used the bolts to bring in the last 1/2 inch.
29. Bolt the crossmember in place and begin tightening all the bolts. Torque down to about 55 lbs for the big 17mm bolts and about 37 lbs for the smaller 14mm bolts.
30. Install starter and tighten down bolts also to about 37lbs.
31. Reinstall clutch master cylinder, tighten bolts. Whenever your working with aluminum don’t ever go over board, you don’t want to strip the threads.
32. Now it’s just a matter of putting everything back together the way you found it.
33. I had to top off the transmission oil since I spilled some. You’ll need a 10mm allen bit to take out the plug.
34. Make sure the shifter goes into all the gears before putting the ****/boot. You might need to re-align it.
35. Connect battery.
36. That’s pretty much it, now go take a test drive and enjoy!
Hope this helps. If anyone sees something incorrect or not too clear on let me know. Here are few pics…
Changing out a clutch in the 350z is not a small task although it is similar to most RWD cars. You’ll need your usual hand tools, preferably air tools, torque wrench, transmission jack, jack stands, a few special tools, etc… How quick and easy depends how mechanically inclined you are and how much effort your willing to invest.
If you mangle or botch the install it’s no one else’s fault but your own, having a shop do it will at least give you the option or path to a warranty claim. The going rate is about 300 – 500 dollars and the decision is up to you. I take no responsibility for any injuries or damages if you decide to do this yourself… with that being said here what needs to be done.
1. Secure vehicle with jack stands, I went as high as my jack could go. This is very important and probably the most crucial, people have been crushed, so be careful. Don’t do this on inclined driveway! I will say its bee-yotch lying on your back, wish I had a lift.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. I’m running the borla exhaust and I had to loosen it all up to let the driveshaft drop. I removed the first pieces/hpipe after the cats. Mine had seized and had to use some big pipe wrench vise grips to twist it loose. I imagine the stock exhaust removal should be much easier.
4. Remove the brace connecting the two cats, I also removed the passenger side o2 sensor to give me more room as I’m using those non-fouler extensions.
5. Remove driveshaft bolts and slide it out, set it aside.
6. Remove all electronic connectors, use a small flat head screwdriver like the ones used to tighten reading glasses. You don’t want to break any of the clips. Make sure you get all of cable management clips and brackets that are clipped on. Using curved needle nose pliers helps. You don’t want anything attached to the trans.
7. Remove the rear splash guard.
8. Remove starter bolts and move it out of the way leaving the cabling intact. (make sure the battery is disconnected, you don’t want a short here)
9. Remove the clutch master cylinder and move it to the side. Make a habit of putting the bolts back in place to help you remember where they all go.
10. Remove the shifter from inside the car, twist off the **** and after removing the plastic boot area cover remove all the bolts underneath. Go back under the car and remove the 12 mm bolt holding the shifter in place. It will pop out.
11. Remove the small sheet metal brace under the transmission.
12. Start loosening all the bolts to the engine. Make sure you can get to all of them, they will be tight. There was one bolt on top that required me to remove a small bracket that was in the way.
13. Once they are loose you can begin positioning the tranny jack, it was it a little tricky to actually tighten the band, its optional and it helps, just try your best. The center of gravity is towards the back of the transmission.
14. Begin removing the crossmember bolts; don’t let the transmission just hang by the input shaft.
15. Remove all the bolts and start pulling the transmission out. Again make sure nothing is attached. Be careful as you start lowering it as it could tilt back and begin dripping oil out the output shaft like it did onto me. Lower the trans all the way and it roll it back.
16. I used an impact wrench to remove the pressure plate bolts. Be careful and ready to catch it here as you don’t want it to fall on your face.
17. Using a t-55 torx bit remove the flywheel. I used the impact wrench again. This one is heavy too so be ready.
18. Now there is one small little piece left, the pilot bushing. Most clutch sets include this so you might as well change it. The service manual says to use a special tool, use it if you have it. I used an old trick to get this guy out, fill in the hole with some thick grease and with the clutch alignment tool begin tapping it into the hole, (I removed the plastic ring on mine). Eventually the pressure from the grease will pop it out.
19. Now go back to the transmission remove the retaining clip and remove the throwout bearing from the input shaft.
20. Use a gear puller to remove the bearing from the sleeve. Now here is the tricky part, I couldn’t figure out how to hold the center section of the puller in place. I just happen to find a thick washer that fit perfectly into the center of the sleeve.
21. Wipe off all the grease from the crankshaft to begin installing the pilot bushing. The pilot bushing is soft brass so care must be taken when taping it in. I used a socket and a rubber mallet. Make sure it feels smooth on the inside and that its pushed in straight all the way in.
22. Press the new throwout bearing on to the sleeve. The manual says to use a press, I used a vise, I flipped the serrated jaws to have a smooth surface to squeeze with. This is crucial, don’t mark up the bearing’s surface and make sure it goes on straight.
23. Install throwout bearing assembly on to the input shaft; use the clip to secure the clutch fork. I put a little grease on the bearing’s face, the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the splines and input shaft.
24. The JWT flywheel has two timing holes and was clearly marked which one to use on 350z. Make sure you use the right one, although its lighter than stock you don’t want to drop it on your face. Hand tighten all the bolts.
25. I don’t have the tool to prevent the flywheel from turning and resorted to using a ½ ratchet on the crank pulley with a long pipe/breaker bar holding it in place. If I had more time I’d invest or fab up something better. The pipe was touching the ground as I tightened the bolts to 90 foot lbs. I then followed the instructions to loosen, add red loctite and torque back down to 93 lbs.
26. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with some carburetor cleaner and some clean shop rags. You don’t want any and I repeat any type of grease or oil on the flywheel or pressure plate. Make sure it’s clean, put the clutch disk and hold it in place with the alignment tool.
27. Bolt on the pressure plate, it took a few attempts for me to guess where the alignment dowels go. There are other holes on the flywheel that will not work. Tighten down to 25 foot lbs, remove alignment tool.
28. Now the fun part, putting the transmission back in. It has to go straight in and you must be careful no to damage the pilot bushing. Twist it and push it in as much as possible, don’t bang it in, be patient. If the transmission is gear try turning the output shaft or turn the engine over with a ratchet to try and get the splines to line up. I couldn’t push mine all the way in but I made sure the splines were in before I began to bolt it up. I used the bolts to bring in the last 1/2 inch.
29. Bolt the crossmember in place and begin tightening all the bolts. Torque down to about 55 lbs for the big 17mm bolts and about 37 lbs for the smaller 14mm bolts.
30. Install starter and tighten down bolts also to about 37lbs.
31. Reinstall clutch master cylinder, tighten bolts. Whenever your working with aluminum don’t ever go over board, you don’t want to strip the threads.
32. Now it’s just a matter of putting everything back together the way you found it.
33. I had to top off the transmission oil since I spilled some. You’ll need a 10mm allen bit to take out the plug.
34. Make sure the shifter goes into all the gears before putting the ****/boot. You might need to re-align it.
35. Connect battery.
36. That’s pretty much it, now go take a test drive and enjoy!
Hope this helps. If anyone sees something incorrect or not too clear on let me know. Here are few pics…
Last edited by JG 350Z; 12-18-2006 at 07:32 PM.
08-05-2007, 01:57 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JG 350Z
25. I don’t have the tool to prevent the flywheel from turning and resorted to using a ½ ratchet on the crank pulley with a long pipe/breaker bar holding it in place. If I had more time I’d invest or fab up something better. The pipe was touching the ground as I tightened the bolts to 90 foot lbs. I then followed the instructions to loosen, add red loctite and torque back down to 93 lbs.
Great tutorial, by the way. I've been using it as a guide for my ACT clutch/flywheel install.
Trending Topics
09-08-2007, 10:33 PM
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 8,517
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Originally Posted by jetboy
I think this might be a mistake. The service manual says the flywheel bolts must be tightened to 52-59 ft. lbs. Did you mean 93 N m?
Great tutorial, by the way. I've been using it as a guide for my ACT clutch/flywheel install.
Great tutorial, by the way. I've been using it as a guide for my ACT clutch/flywheel install.
My JWT clutch/flywheel said to do 90ft lbs then loosen, then do 93ft lbs. I just followed that. My muscles were drained after that. That torx bit felt like it can strip those flywheel bolts easily which i didn't want to happen.
05-02-2008, 08:36 AM
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: so cal (mpk) - tokyo - taiwan
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow QBrid3. that was your first post too..rough start.
you want pictures..go buy a picture book.
someone having a some working knowledge of car components, types of tools being used, etc.. would be able to use his write up and run with it.
you want pictures..go buy a picture book.
someone having a some working knowledge of car components, types of tools being used, etc.. would be able to use his write up and run with it.
05-28-2008, 09:13 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the write up was great... in response to Qbridg3: you really should research things on your own instead of expecting them to be handed to you... just by looking at your manual you will know where the central jack points are as well as where the jack stand points can be..... and his write up is perfect for someone that can research and look up there own information and not someone that wants everything given to them.... like most of the guys say to use the search button before posting a question... you ought to search the materials available to you before opening your mouth about someone doing all of us a favor in telling us how he did it....
07-10-2008, 11:53 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Einsiedlerhof, DE
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
car vs. driver,
the best way to break the bolts loose is to use a little "liquid wrench" on them. you can get a can at any car parts store (autozone, etc.) the stuff works wonders.
just make sure you mark where your drive shaft is lined up with white out or whatever on the drive shaft itself and the differential. it is only supposed to go on one way.
another thing you should get is a "cheater bar" get a metal pipe and put it on the end of your wrench and use it as leverage to loosen the bolt after the liquid wrench.
hope that helped man
the best way to break the bolts loose is to use a little "liquid wrench" on them. you can get a can at any car parts store (autozone, etc.) the stuff works wonders.
just make sure you mark where your drive shaft is lined up with white out or whatever on the drive shaft itself and the differential. it is only supposed to go on one way.
another thing you should get is a "cheater bar" get a metal pipe and put it on the end of your wrench and use it as leverage to loosen the bolt after the liquid wrench.
hope that helped man
07-11-2008, 12:12 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Einsiedlerhof, DE
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JG
bro this was an excellent write up. i just finished installing mine yesterday (what a b***h it was to do alone) but yeah having a lift was a lifesaver. i will say this that if you have little mechanical skill do not attempt this DIY as you will fail.
i am glad i don't fit into that mold. LOL! keep up the good work bro.
bro this was an excellent write up. i just finished installing mine yesterday (what a b***h it was to do alone) but yeah having a lift was a lifesaver. i will say this that if you have little mechanical skill do not attempt this DIY as you will fail.
i am glad i don't fit into that mold. LOL! keep up the good work bro.
Just needed a better angle on the bolts ... and a swivel socket.
