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#1 |
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Registered User
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I recently removed the MREV2 and reinstalled my revup lower plenum. In the process, I discovered where all the oil that my engine 'misplaced' went to. It pooled into several areas on the lower plenum, and from there it apparently was drawn into the engine through the tiny orifices drilled into each runner. I read up on this a little bit and found that several high performance cars, including the S2000 and Corvette, suck a lot of oil through the PCV into the intake manifold at high RPMs. Consequently, there is a number of products specifically made for these cars, to catch the oil that comes out of the crankcase before it gets into the intake manifold.
I ordered a nice billet aluminum unit from Custom Corvette Accessories. There are good pics of the catch can and available accessories on the website. BTW, do NOT get the one for the C6, it uses a custom mounting bracket. Here's what the 35th Anniversary revup looked like before I started. P471 ![]() The installation is pretty much self explanatory, but I want to mention a couple of things that may make the job even easier. Although it took me over 4 hours, an hour of that was trying to find a place to mount it. Space under the hood comes at a premium. If it weren't for the close quarters, this would be a 20 minute task. Another hour was wasted looking for parts and tools that I dropped through the engine bay. The best place to put the catch can is on the passenger side, using the upper mounting screw for the power steering (PS) reservoir bracket. The first thing to do is pull off the plastic engine cover so we can get to both ends of the PCV hose and the passenger side body-to-timing cover ground strap. P472 ![]() Next, remove the single screw (P478) on the radiator overflow tank and pull it up and forward so you can get to the ground strap - you don’t need to disconnect the hose to the radiator. The ground strap is attached to the timing cover at two places with one bolt each (P472), and to the passenger side body, underneath the overflow tank, with two bolts through a single lug. The second lug on the timing cover is very hard to see, but you can follow the strap over from the other end, and it’s pretty easy to unbolt. Slide the two clamps off, and remove the PCV hose (P472) that connects the plenum to the PCV on the valve cover. This is what the area looks like after it’s readied for the catch can. P476 ![]() P478 ![]() Remove the top bolt (P478) off of the PS reservoir bracket and slide the rubber grommet off. Slice the grommet in half (but not the metal insert). Insert the original bolt through the metal grommet insert, the first half of the rubber grommet, the catch can bracket, the PS tank bracket, and the second half of the rubber grommet - just 'snug up' the bolt for now. Mount the hose fittings on the catch can using teflon tape - see pic P480 for proper orientation. You will need to unscrew the bottom of the can in order to slide it into the bracket from the top, then reinstall the bottom. There is an English size allen screw through the back of the bracket to secure the can in place. Finally, tighten the top screw of the PS bracket to the passenger side strut tower. Measure and cut the length of hose you need, and connect the top can fitting to the PCV. The braided hose looks great, but it is also a royal PITA to work with. I would stick with the standard 3/8" fuel service rubber hose and SS hose clamps instead. Now we’re almost done, and it looks like this: P480 ![]() P481 ![]() Measure and cut hose for the lower can fitting and connect it to the nipple on the front of the lower plenum. Reinstall the ground strap, and route it in front of the catch can (P487), and then across toward the timing cover. Bend the larger lug at the timing cover as necessary, to make the connection easier. Slide the radiator overflow tank into its bracket and secure. If everything is oriented as shown in the pics, no part of the catch can should be touching the strut tower or the PS suction hose. P482 ![]() P483 ![]() P487 ![]() After driving about 400 miles, which included a lot of 6000+ RPM shifts, I opened the drain valve and some oil trickled out. I unscrewed the bottom of the can and found the inside coated with a light film of oil around the drain valve. It WORKS! This is an inexpensive, simple mod, and it will keep the intake manifold, combustion chamber, and exhaust piping clean. Especially useful for those of us lucky enough to own a revup with the 'hide the oil' feature. I am very pleased with it. Good luck! Last edited by undrgnd; 02-05-2008 at 03:46 PM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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what kind of catch can did you use
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2004 PPW Z- <> Jim Wolf<> AAM<> La Bree<> Apexi<> Tanabe<> Axis<> Yokohama<> SPC <> EBC <> Hawks <> Varis<> Sparco<> Kenwood<> Candence<> Elemental Design<> KnuKoncepts<>Amsoil<>Seibon<> |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Damn Noobs
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Very nice write up with pics to boot!!!!
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#5 |
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Nice. This should be in the DIY section.
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#6 |
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Vendor - Former Vendor
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damnnn that looks good and clean install. best ive seen for DYI catch can. Nicee!. I might try this. Thnx for pix!
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Very nice write up. Here's a diagram of the internals for that style of catch can.
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2006 6MT GT Silverstone, Nismo floormats - Coming soon: Nismo license plate frame Last edited by gothchick; 01-30-2008 at 09:43 AM. |
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#8 |
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here's another type of one from Lingenfelter. It even has a drain at the bottom that you could somehow plumb back into the oil pan for passive drainback!
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2005 G35 Twin Turbo Sedan |
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#9 |
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Thanks guys, it was enjoyable to do something that actually gave immediate gratification, something I can't say for most of the 'performance' mods I've done.
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#10 |
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Infiltrator!
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thanks for the contribution. i was having a hard time trying to find a mounting spot for my cusco...i may just have to switch!
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1124 U-R-not-E
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Wow! good job. Did you use the c5 or c6 version or does it not matter.
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06 MB Z 6mt; Go: Stillen CAI, mrev2,5/16 iso spacer, topspeed headers, turboxs tps, borla TD w/mf x-pipe . Show Nismo V2, USDM sides, Blacked out headlights, sti lense, angel eyes,Veilside v1 rear lip, Seibon tb spoiler, Brakes & Suspension: cross-drilled/slotted rotors, posi-quiet pads, hotchkis. Audio MB quart,Diamond audio and MTX. Wheels & tires: 19" Volks LE37'S Gloss Black 255/35, 285/35 .Divetrain: JWT Clutch/Flywheel..soon to come 4.083 FD ratio |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
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#13 |
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Looks nice. What was the reason for removing the MREV2?
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.: It takes a big man to cry. It takes an even bigger man to laugh at that man. |
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#14 |
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Long story > short: Wanted to restore the OEM power and driving characteristics to the classic 35th Anniv.
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#15 | |
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Quote:
Thanks
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.: It takes a big man to cry. It takes an even bigger man to laugh at that man. |
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#16 |
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Nope, no problems at all. I just like the linear power progression of the revup motor better. I will be selling the MREV2, APS plenum and strut bar here shortly, in case someone is interested.
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#17 |
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I like it! its simple and clean
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04.5 Redline 6sp Vortech 9psi widebody show quality, taking offers, see pics at:Myspace.com/muzzy350z new project srt-10 in the works! |
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#18 | |
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Quote:
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.: It takes a big man to cry. It takes an even bigger man to laugh at that man. |
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#19 |
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Infiltrator!
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finally bit the bullet and made the purchase for a blue one (w/included accessories, not that shiny stuff
). it's a great lookin' kit that is actually pretty functional.
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1124 U-R-not-E
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#20 |
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I was considering putting my old catch can from my old tuner into the Z. After looking at the Vette can and others, I never noticed the way the internals worked... making me wonder if all catch cans are designed that way, soi can keep mine or if I need to just buy a new one. I went with an inexpensive can since they are simple designs (at least thought they were) and I thought all they do is let regular air pass-through while catching oil. The whole 'condensing fumes' junk is new to me.
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| Tags |
| aluminum, billet, c5, catch, corvette, diy, g35, gtr, internals, metal, oil, overflow, r35, radiator, sti |
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