taywan

iTrader: (53)

Subd. I need to do mine soon. Just sitting in trunk.

frivoloushobby

UPDATE: Good news! With the help of a friend who knows which way to turn a wrench, the problem with the diff has been fixed. Turns out the diff stud and nut started to cross thread about midway, which explains why it was never torqueing down and allowed the entire diff to bounce. Took about 2-3 hours total. Once the diff was out, we removed the stripped stud with vice grips. Used two nuts to drive the new stud into the diff cover. Reinstall went smoothly and I'm once again a happy boy.

ukraini9mofo

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys is what I'm describing in this thread sounds like a bushing issue ?

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10668880

Thank you !

Zmenow87

Just installed using this method!! Very detailed and helped a lot!
A little more emphasis on " bench pressing" the subframe back up

tyau

iTrader: (1)

I notice that Z and G with upgraded transmission mounts usually do not suffer from damaged differential subframe bushings. As a preventative and cost effective measure, I highly recommend replacing the stock transmission mounts. The stock transmission mounts allow inches of movements, twisting the differential subframe bushings significantly.

Also, another thing I have noticed is that the the bushings in the differential carriers never go bad. I personally wouldn't replace those ones just to save a little bit of time.

HR2007

This install i have done in the last weekend and i must say between you and Z33Garage it made things less intimidating for me.

I was perplexed when bolting up the diff ear bushings as i forgot which way the thin steel washer went went that bolts to the underside of the car.

after watching some videos in slo-mo i realized is pointy side up as its a concave washer.

my bush press was pretty ghetto and made from 6mm thick right angle steel with threaded rod. i also ended up tapping the bushing in with a block of wood and mallet. bloody easy.

the real nightmare was perfectly centering the diff ear holes and the sway bar, as well as the rear muffler.

some black grease got the muffler on pretty well. never fails. now just need the 100kms before i re-torque.

brilliant write up, good work

HR2007

Btw the fsm says to replace the axle fasteners and the nuts on the driveshaft

How hard and fast is this rule?

Got quoted $250aud from Nissan for all 16 set of fasteners and subject to min purchase quantity.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Might tackle this sometime this week, page 8 is my friend and the more I read the more confusing it gets...

HRMoneyPit

I need to do this. The black **** is starting to slowly ooze out

HR2007

being able to do something like this yourself is inspiring and confidence building.

feel free to PM me for any questions as its all still fresh in my head.

The OP has heaps of good karma coming his way as it seemed intimidating at first but following this method breaks it down a bit and each person tends to do things a bit different or find a new way to do things.

i didnt use new fasteners in the end and the car hasnt exploded so reusing the original ones seems to be ok.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Mine has had a racing stripe for a long time, I got new whiteline bushings for the differential and subframe, I was checking to see if people put the skinny bushing on top as instructions say, or flip them around and have the larger bushings on top like it seems some people do.

I'll probably just follow the instructions...

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

So question how in the world do you get a torque wrench on those driveshaft bolts... Theirs like no room for a socket...

Also was anyone elses swau bar removal a complete pain in the ***?

Actually a bunch of those bolts really sucked...

HRMoneyPit

My sway bar is cake and you don't need to TQ everything in life

bjr

They do suck and it's not easily possible to do anything about torquing them. I also just went with my gut on torque and used a paint pen to mark them and recheck them later. It's pretty easy when it takes 99% of your strength to break something loose. Put it back on very tight!
I thought I missed something on the sway bar. I still remember spending 10 minutes twisting and moving it around trying to get it out then spending 30-40 minutes trying to get it back in. I guess taking the end links off or the exhaust out of the way would help but that is just as frustrating...

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

O yeah I took off my exhaust, no way I was getting it off with that in the way... Took a bunch of pics so I can put it back together hopefully without issues... Got my subframe bushings in the mail today, hopefully those bolts cooperate for me.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

And a money shot too..



Thanks Nissan

HR2007

I know some places are saying to flip the diff ear bushing and ditch the rubber washer but I have done as they advised. I know you mentioned something about flipping the diff ear bushes from fat bush on top to the thin on the bottom etc, some people have, but Whiteline say this adjusts the diff angle and can have other effects with NVH. I just did as they advised, thin on top and fat on bottom and its been all good.


for your driveshaft's I recall using a pair of ring spanners and use one for each side.


I locked one spanner against the body and pounded the hell out of the other spanner with my hand or dead blow.


to torque them I locked a ring spanner on one side against the body and used a combo of pivot/goose neck extension and a deep socket.


the sway bar was a pain but when unbolted took 20 seconds to remove but then took 10-20 minutes to put back in. so much stuff in the way.


for the main tail shaft I am pretty sure I used a batt powered rattle gun to loosen. I torqued them up by using the ring spanner against the body method.


like bjr mentioned I marked them off as I torqued them down.

superlim9

guys... you'll save yourself all kids of headache if you drop the back section of your exhaust out of the way

as far as using a torque wrench on the axle bolts... you can use a crow foot wrench or use a torque wench on a similar bolt out of the car and feel how tight they are with two wrenches and then just repeat on the car... exact torque value on these is not imperative (if it tighter then suggested torque) as long as they are tight... I always use lock-tite on drive shaft bolts/u-joints... that's the last thing you want coming off going down the road



also word to the wise... make sure you unplug your speed sensors... or you'll get a nice surprise when you drop the diff... few guys in my club forgot that part

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

The only thing I forgot about was the breather hose, but I couldn't even get to it till I dropped the pumpkin a little bit..

I used an impact for removing almost everything, I was able to sneak it in most spots with a swivel.. Im planning to take off my subframe also to replace those bushings and hopefully make removing that center bushing more pleasant...

My worries are in those kidney looking braces, I just hope the bolts come out without any issues... (I broke one when I removed my W brace, it sucked)

HR2007

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psgjpnhrmj.jpg

This the method I used to retorque the fasteners on the drive shaft