DIY Wire Tuck
01-09-2013, 04:24 PM
#121
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Drives fine! Idles however drop and rise a lot , I'm guessing a retune since I also installed the r35 injectors!
This is as far with the tucking and mild re routing of anything lmao!
Moar
01-09-2013, 05:50 PM
#124
Can you explain your problem alittle more and what you've done in the past to bleed your coolant? Have you tried drilling a bleed hole in the thermostat and if you have nismo or mishimoto remove the little plug so it can constantly flow a little and air doesnt get trapped at the thermostat? Old trick in the V8 world,
Install lisle coolant funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A4...086194-8436936
Raise front of vehicle or leave on flat ground.
Slowly pour coolant into funnel, allowing air to escape easily, till full.
Open bleeder near firewall to release trapped air, then close it.
Turn on vehicle, idle around 1500 rpm to warm up faster.
Rev engine to 3000 rpm every once in awhile and watch for bubbles in funnel
Once starting to get warm, turn on heater to full heat
Then again open bleeder at firewall to release trapped air.
Then repeat above till thermostat opens and there isnt any more bubbles in funnel
01-09-2013, 06:24 PM
#127
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I hope I don't have problems with trapped air after changing the pipes.
Drilling a small hole, lets small amount of coolant to bypass and won't allow air to get trapped at the thermostat. Yes!!! I would think is would increase the warm up time, but not much. I was thinking about your idea of putting a bleed valve on the pipe. Get idea!!! But thinking it might pull air in if you bleed while the engines running since its low.
Last edited by sradenton; 01-09-2013 at 06:40 PM.
01-10-2013, 12:37 AM
#128
I can see how it being a low point could be an issue, but if the front of the vehicle is raised the issue may be less. Or if not, on flat ground, being left open long enough would eventually allow coolant to flow out of the bleeder (exp. Gravity bleeding brake fluid)
01-10-2013, 01:34 AM
#130
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No no, the thermostat just stages warmup for the block then opens when too hot! Removing it all together just eliminates that closed loop. So from startup it's open creating cooling from the start which makes it longer to get to operating temps!
01-10-2013, 08:26 AM
#132
If you drift and maintain your vehicle regularly, you may want to do your coolant line tuck in a slightly different manner than what everyone else is doing. The Coolant line tuck makes bleeding the coolant a *****....air typically gets trapped around the thermostat....or at least this has been my experience with the DE's
thanks for the tip though.
03-04-2013, 07:10 PM
#138
^^Thanks man. i did little things here and there, took the alternator ground wires and hid them throw the bottom, took the emission crap off that hangs off the plenum so it looks a lot cleaner. and the speaker for the alarm on the driver side i took it off so it doesnt look like i didnt do nothing haha. when i get a good pic i'll post
