DIY: Zspeed Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder
02-15-2014, 06:56 PM
#21
Mine works great and has been good for a long time.
I only have to find a solution to the pin on the clutch pedal squeaking, i've taken it out and polished/greased it and it goes away but after a while the increased pressure makes it gall up a little and it feels "sticky" a bit. Not sure if it's from the stiffer clutch or the different clevis but it's a very simple issue and i'm sure there's a way to fix it permanently that I haven't looked for yet.
I only have to find a solution to the pin on the clutch pedal squeaking, i've taken it out and polished/greased it and it goes away but after a while the increased pressure makes it gall up a little and it feels "sticky" a bit. Not sure if it's from the stiffer clutch or the different clevis but it's a very simple issue and i'm sure there's a way to fix it permanently that I haven't looked for yet.
02-15-2014, 07:10 PM
#22
I actually had the super-black fluid on my first wilwood, I sent it back to Joe@Zspeed after getting another one from him (also changed sizes to help pedal action with my twin-disc) and the fluid is still clear a year later now. There are some of them that I believe don't seal properly or have bad/weak seals that degrade.
The squeaking I got badly the first time, took the pedal pin out and scuffed/polished it and added grease, has been much better.
Also, my memory sucks but I believe I originally had a built-in resevior one, so it couldn't have been the old remote filler line causing the fluid to darken. The entire system was brand new, the Zspeed heavy slave, all stainless line, and new master. Fluid looked like death after a month or two.
The squeaking I got badly the first time, took the pedal pin out and scuffed/polished it and added grease, has been much better.
Also, my memory sucks but I believe I originally had a built-in resevior one, so it couldn't have been the old remote filler line causing the fluid to darken. The entire system was brand new, the Zspeed heavy slave, all stainless line, and new master. Fluid looked like death after a month or two.
I planned to do a brake and clutch fluids change every six months but completely slacked off .
02-17-2014, 12:07 AM
#23
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After few months, my Motul RBF 600 was also closed to black color, don't know where it come from... Maybe the clutch liquid should be flush every six months with this set-up ?
Does it means that the components overheat ? Specificly the Heavy Duty ZSpeed CSC ?
Does it means that the components overheat ? Specificly the Heavy Duty ZSpeed CSC ?
Last edited by FastGreg; 02-17-2014 at 12:31 AM.
02-17-2014, 02:59 AM
#24
I've been lazy and really need to flush my brake fluid as well, so we'll see how the Motul held up there.
07-07-2014, 05:07 PM
#28
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07-08-2014, 06:25 AM
#30
Normally you can just fill the reservoir, Crack bleeder open, fill with fluid and walk away for a few, Once fluid starts to come out of the bleeder proceed with bleeding. If fluid doesn't run by itself pump pedal a few times with bleeder open and it will start to bleed.
07-30-2014, 12:57 AM
#31
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I actually had the super-black fluid on my first wilwood, I sent it back to Joe@Zspeed after getting another one from him (also changed sizes to help pedal action with my twin-disc) and the fluid is still clear a year later now. There are some of them that I believe don't seal properly or have bad/weak seals that degrade.
The squeaking I got badly the first time, took the pedal pin out and scuffed/polished it and added grease, has been much better.
Also, my memory sucks but I believe I originally had a built-in resevior one, so it couldn't have been the old remote filler line causing the fluid to darken. The entire system was brand new, the Zspeed heavy slave, all stainless line, and new master. Fluid looked like death after a month or two.
The squeaking I got badly the first time, took the pedal pin out and scuffed/polished it and added grease, has been much better.
Also, my memory sucks but I believe I originally had a built-in resevior one, so it couldn't have been the old remote filler line causing the fluid to darken. The entire system was brand new, the Zspeed heavy slave, all stainless line, and new master. Fluid looked like death after a month or two.
FYI, there is no visible leaks of fluid yet...
07-30-2014, 06:07 AM
#32
With a Internal CSC you will get fluid contamination no matter what you do. The CSC sits inside the trans and collects any fine dust from the clutch, As the slave actuates it rubs the dust on the sealing shaft and the fluid cleans it off which in turn goes into the fluid.
We warranty our Wilwood kit for 90 days even though Wilwood themselves have 0 warranty.
We have added a replacement kit at a GREATLY reduced cost should yours ever fail out of warranty just to help out the guys that have supported us.
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...-ZSP3003-R.htm
We warranty our Wilwood kit for 90 days even though Wilwood themselves have 0 warranty.
We have added a replacement kit at a GREATLY reduced cost should yours ever fail out of warranty just to help out the guys that have supported us.
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...-ZSP3003-R.htm
07-31-2014, 01:27 AM
#34
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With a Internal CSC you will get fluid contamination no matter what you do. The CSC sits inside the trans and collects any fine dust from the clutch, As the slave actuates it rubs the dust on the sealing shaft and the fluid cleans it off which in turn goes into the fluid.
We warranty our Wilwood kit for 90 days even though Wilwood themselves have 0 warranty.
We have added a replacement kit at a GREATLY reduced cost should yours ever fail out of warranty just to help out the guys that have supported us.
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...-ZSP3003-R.htm
We warranty our Wilwood kit for 90 days even though Wilwood themselves have 0 warranty.
We have added a replacement kit at a GREATLY reduced cost should yours ever fail out of warranty just to help out the guys that have supported us.
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...-ZSP3003-R.htm
Do you think it's better to change the all MC ?
Last edited by FastGreg; 07-31-2014 at 01:55 AM.
07-31-2014, 02:02 AM
#35
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Very interesting, you change the entire MC, or just use the rebuild kit ? Thanks.
Last edited by FastGreg; 07-31-2014 at 03:58 AM.
09-10-2014, 04:56 AM
#40
I'm in the process of revising my clutch master cylinder due to a damaged master cylinder rod.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.
The source of the issue is the Wilwood master's threads are about 0.17" too long for my setup. This is not normally an issue but with my modifed clutch pedal allowing me to greatly reduce the pedal height / throw the rod was actually interfering with pedal movement.
I found the issue by trying to adjust my clutch and found everything bound up with the end of the MC threaded rod bent & mushroomed.
Made a new MC to pedal fork b/c the old one can't be removed and will shorten the new MC rod to avoid the issue.
I'll try to attach pics later tonight.