venture210

don't see any threads here covering this so here it goes

I'm in the process of installing headers and a new clutch. Instead of going through the headaches people claim for the header install alone, I've decided to leave the transmission in place and remove the engine alone. This will give easy access to both the clutch and headers.

At the point I'm at, the engine is ready to come out and I'm having trouble finding hoist points that don't involve a tranny to engine bolt. Has anyone ever done a sling around the curved neck of the intake and have the other end of the chain linked to one of the big bolts on the chain cover? How strong is that manifold bolted on there with all those 10mm's holding it down. Any one discovered some golden method to hoist the motor out without the tranny? Also the chain I have not long enough reach the engine mount bolts. That might actually be unstable coming out if the hoist points are below the center of gravity.

Main question is, will the manifold and chain case bolt hold all the weight. Any input is appreciated

venture210

Ok so I went ahead and did some risky maneuvers with this particular install but got everything done.

So getting the motor out without the tranny went like this.

1. remove hood, air box, fan shroud, drain coolant and unplug ALL sensors connected to engine
2. loosen both belt tensioners and remove them
3. unmount alternator and remove through the bottom
4. now here is where I saved my power steering pump and ac compressor. Simply unmount them and ziptie them off to the side and out of way making sure that the engine will still come out smoothly with their new locations.
5. disconnect all coolant lines (to the firewall and to the intake mani) followed by taking off all the the part of the intake manifold off that contains the throttle body.
6. unbolt starter and remove through side closest to cats
7. support tranny with jack and wooden blocks
8. unbolt all engine to tranny bolts and TWO 17mm nuts from the bottom of the cross member where the engine mounts bolts poke through.
9. at this point, the engine should be ready to come right out, only problem is where do you mount the chain without taking the tranny with the engine!? What i did was very risky but worked out perfectly. With one end of the chain mounted to the big timing chain case bolt on the right, I made a sling around the hard coolant pipe that goes around the back of the motor on new the mounting bolts right under where the fuel line mounts to. Then I used the jack to lift the tranny high enough to pull the engine out without damaging the STEERING RACK LINES. Be careful with those!!! So now pry the engine apart from the tranny. This should make tons of room for removing the stock exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head and catalytic converters. ALSO MAKE SURE TO TAKE CARE WHEN REMOVING THE O2 SENSORS. Now with a little wiggling, shaking and prying the engine should slide right off the tranny. Then take it straight up and out!

At the end of the removal, I replaced the stock exhaust manifolds with some cheap megan racing headers (very similar to pricey nismo headers) and a new clutch. Everything went back in just the way it came out!

I know I know, "you used the coolant hard pipe to lift the engine!?" Yes I did, but before you think that its too crazy (I still think its pretty crazy) I compared the size of the two mounting bolts of the hard pipe and realized these two are pretty much supporting the other end of the chain. Just by looking at those 2 bolts and looking at one of the beefy tranny bolts, I said to myself "if that one 17mm can hold half the engine then two 14mm definitely can." Sure enough it did and my header and clutch install took about 2 days time all together by myself.

florotory

I'm getting ready to pull the motor as well in my 350. I think im gona just order the engine slingers though. You said you ordered manifolds to replace the OEM ones? Do you have stock exhaust? If so how was the fitment? Thanks

venture210

Yeah I got a set of megan headers for a steal and still have the oem exhaust mani's. I always read up on the fitment issues and worried about that but ended up rolling the dice on this one. When I dropped the motor back in, the headers cleared everything and fit perfectly. I've had them on for almost 3 months now I think and have had no problems. Just make sure to heat wrap some important stuff like the ac compressor hoses and the fuel lines. Another thing regarding megan products is that they are hit or miss in terms of quality. I definitely got a hit Car made 260 whp on a dynojet without a tune.

spooncer_DK

could you give some more details about moving the compressor and steering pump? im right about there with my Z

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

The steering pump stuff can all be pushed away to one side. If you're there, you'll see what I mean once you progress. As for the AC compressor, I don't recall there being too much room for it to tuck away/into. Mine was discharged so I just removed mine altogether.