Cass007

iTrader: (34)

So after a couple of years of fun, the stock clutch on the LS2 has given up the ghost. I have a couple of questions that some of my fellow swappers may be able to help with.

1. How difficult was it to get the trans out with everything mounted in the car?

2 If anyone is using an upgraded clutch, what Brand/Model is it and how is the pedal feel? Also, what is the max power rating on the clutch as well?

I'm loving having the car be dependable again, but it's about this time every year that I start to miss 600whp a bit.

CUL8ER

Figured I can help with some answers.

I removed half my exhaust, you might not have to, you might. I don't know what exhaust you have.
then I drain the t-56, I am assuming that's what you have.
Then I undo the 4 bolts for the drive shaft to the rear end. and slide the drive shaft out.

I use 2 jacks. 1 for the rear of the trans. undo the trans mount.
Then I get 3/8's drive and undo the bolts from tranny to bellhousing. you need a couple of extensions to get the top 2 bolts, 1 on either side. this is where a air compressor and air tools come in very handy.
Once all the tranny to bellhousing bolts are removed. I use the second jack and put it up front. Once the trans is supported by both jacks.

Now remove your shifter and shifter rod.
I also removed the 4 bolts holding the rubber boot & the rubber boot so that didn't get damaged.JIC (u can do this 1st I just did it this way)

I used a strap around the rear jack and trans. Dropped the rear jack a little bit to get the shifter nub to clear. Then just yank and the trans out. It's not sealed by anything tranny to bellhousing. Then just lower both jacks the T-56 is about 125lbs. You do have to muscle it out.

I was able to remove the trans by myself (car on jack stands) but getting it back in was harder and I needed 2 guys to help. Have to line up the pilot bearing with the output shaft on the trans. and for some reason the shifter nub wasn't clearing the back of the shifter hole. Had to use a body hammer and massage it. then massage it back so the 4 bolts on the rubber shifter boot would line up.

My clutch is a McLeod Street Twin Clutch Kit w/Steel Flywheel, 1200 HP, LS1-LS7
From Hinson. Stock GM slave clynder.(f-body)

I can't comment on the feel yet( I will once I do). I can tell you that a buddy of mine with the same set up said it was pretty nice. He said it was way nicer then my carbonetics triple carbon plate clutch which was on my old VQ set up. That clutch(carbonetics)was either engaged or not, there was no feathering. Buddy said the Mcleod was close to stock feel.

P.S if you find a faster way to fill the trans back up let me know. I'm doing it with a hand pump.lol

armt350z

iTrader: (6)

For me it was just quicker to take the motor out of the car since I have a 2 post lift. I just drop the entire subframe, motor, and trans out of the car, do the swaps and lower the car back onto the platform. I tried in car, and while doable, it would have involved 5x the cursing and anger.

I'm using a Mcleod street extreme single disc with a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing. Its good for 650hp. Pedal feel is stiffer than stock with a super high engagement point (likely my master cylinder causing this). I'll be switching to a monster clutch after this.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the info guys. I am wary of dropping the motor just because I have functioning AC, so I will have to capture and then refill the system and getting the lines apart always sucks. I could do it at the block attachment, but I had that piece custom fabbed and don't want to damage it.

The current stock clutch has a super high engagement point for me and I really don't care for it. I would much prefer getting it set for an inch or so off the floor if possible.

I had the Carbonetics Triple as well for my TT setup and although it held the power, I lived in fear of stop and go traffic or an accident that slowed things to a crawl. Once it got hot, it was almost undriveable around town. I thought of it as one of the dirty little secrets of high whp FI builds.

I've seen and heard about Monster from the LS1 forums, so maybe that is the direction to proceed. I just want something that can be driven around town without a leg like Jay Cutler but can be capable of holding ~650whp when the Maggie or KB SC goes on.

CUL8ER

armt350z, must be nice to have a lift.. My garage isn't tall enough. and stupid city ordnance, fee's/permits/restrictions associated to that job.

For me with my set up it is/was way easier to do the steps I did. Instead of messing with the motor and all that's connected to it. Would have to drain oil because of turbo lines,power steering lines, radiator.
While I can see it being easier once all that is done but getting to that point would be more of a hassle.

Monster makes a good clutch as well. 1 isn't better then the other, just personal preference.

as far as clutch engagement, I am just used to the clutch pedal height/engagement after 7 years and street skateboarding for 20 I guess. would laugh when someone made a comment about it.
(the rolling joke was if you can kick a shovelhead over you can drive my car)

But if you have the sikky/Wilwood MC and rod you can adjust it more then stock. I have been reading about this link/pedal.http://rjmperformance.com/350z--g35-...edal-kits.html
Might be worth it to check it out.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

do these use the stock Z pedal? if so you could look into the rjm setup... would think it would work, but don't hold me to it

armt350z

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, no turbo lines to worry about and since all my wiring has bulkhead connectors, the engine and harness and trans comes out as a unit.

My main reason for going monster is I actually want the heavier flywheel so it doesn't sound like a cement mixer under 1800 rpm.

That pedal does look slick and at that price, its a drop in the bucket.

mkiv20vt

I use the RJM setup on my t56 and I have what I would call a "normal" clutch engagement. About 1.5" off the floor is where it engages, with about 2" of travel once the clutch engages. It's perfect if you ask me.

The RJM mount was one of the best things I did when I had the VQ and CD009

mkiv20vt

Also, I also find it easier to pull the motor to get the trans out. It takes me about 2 hours ish on jack stands to have everything (motor and trans) out and on the floor.