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Old 07-27-2006, 03:32 PM   #1
trumanator3
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Default Removing clear bra

Has anyone tried this? Is it very hard to do on a black z?
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Old 07-27-2006, 03:36 PM   #2
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I was wondering this myself.
Also, how do you repair little tears in the plastic? I got some curb rash very small.
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Old 07-27-2006, 03:46 PM   #3
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I've been wondering the same thing since I picked up my '03 PPW Z earlier this week. The bra is in great condition, save the fact that it has unfortunately started to yellow.

I spoke with Pepi of Auto Supershield fame (south FL), and he assured me that they should come cleanly off if you let it heat up in the sun for a while, then slowly pull from one edge to the other at a 90 degree angle to the film. I still don't trust myself to do it, so I'll hopefully be having him take care of it all when I go in next week to get the windows tinted.

After seeing a handful of people loudly proclaiming that it will take the paint off !!!, I asked him about it, and he laughed. As long as you take your time, it should come off clean and without any residue. I'll report back after next week if I remember.
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Old 07-27-2006, 04:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connman
I've been wondering the same thing since I picked up my '03 PPW Z earlier this week. The bra is in great condition, save the fact that it has unfortunately started to yellow.

I spoke with Pepi of Auto Supershield fame (south FL), and he assured me that they should come cleanly off if you let it heat up in the sun for a while, then slowly pull from one edge to the other at a 90 degree angle to the film. I still don't trust myself to do it, so I'll hopefully be having him take care of it all when I go in next week to get the windows tinted.

After seeing a handful of people loudly proclaiming that it will take the paint off !!!, I asked him about it, and he laughed. As long as you take your time, it should come off clean and without any residue. I'll report back after next week if I remember.
ya, that'd be cool if you could let us know how it goes. also let us know if its at all noticable if the rest of the paint has faded at all compared to the paint that was underneath the bra
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Old 07-27-2006, 05:14 PM   #5
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I have taken my hood piece off. I had a rock hit it and tear through it, so I removed it. Let it sit in the sun for a bit, then started at one edge and started pulling slowly. Best tip I can give is don't pull from a corner diagonally, start at a corner and try to work one whole side off, then get a handful and pull across. It is a bit of a pain cause it's on there good, just have to be patient. I used 3M adhesive and wax remover to get rid of the excess adhesive. Oh, and wear gloves or something, cause it takes a lot of work and I got some blisters from doing it
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Old 07-27-2006, 05:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumanator3
ya, that'd be cool if you could let us know how it goes. also let us know if its at all noticable if the rest of the paint has faded at all compared to the paint that was underneath the bra
The clear bra allows UV rays to come thru, so fading should be even. I washed and waxed my bra at the same time as the paint, so both got equal protection. No fading or discoloration whatsoever
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:28 PM   #7
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The hood was easy to remove. The front bumper did not go as well. Yes, it will either leave a residue or pull paint! I pulled mine when it started to yellow and will never put another one back on. I would rather get the bumper painted again than go thru that crap!
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeman
I was wondering this myself.
Also, how do you repair little tears in the plastic? I got some curb rash very small.
There is no way to repair the damage once it has happened. Remember, the film is sort of a "sacrificial lamb" for your paint so you can imagine the damage had the film not been there. That being said, the film can be patched if it not in to noticable location like on the lower part of the bumper, easy to curb the film down there. I would only trust a professional as this will require cutting away the effected area.

Removing the film should never pull factory OEM paint off no matter how you remove it. Pulling at a 45 to 90 degree angle, stretch the film off the car and that should keep most of the adhesive on the back of the film. Pepi is correct, be patient and keep the adhesive side and your hands wet, that will keep blisters from forming on your fingertips.

www.speedfilm.net
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Old 07-27-2006, 08:08 PM   #9
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I had a 3M authorized shop to replace a piece under the bottom of the door. When they pulled it off, some paint came off with it. I was not there to see how they did it. That was factory paint too.
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:04 PM   #10
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I have experience pulling this crap off. Most people say to heat it up with a heat gun, and it does come off a bit easier... but leaves one hell of a mess. I pulled it off once when it was absolutely cold, and not a single piece of glue stayed. However i dont advise this for paint... these were headlight pieces.
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Old 07-28-2006, 04:29 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohw
I had a 3M authorized shop to replace a piece under the bottom of the door. When they pulled it off, some paint came off with it. I was not there to see how they did it. That was factory paint too.
Under the bottom of the door? Was that a factory applied piece like just ahead of the rear wheels? I have seen paint come off from the underside of the hood before( basically where the sun never shines ) where the paint hadn't adhered properly, but just a small sliver. I have also seen paint come off when removing the factory pieces that were improperly installed. OEM paint protection film is applied way before the paint has cured and is dangerous to remove for that very reason.

About four years ago while replacing a piece of film that had lifted, paint come off a brand new BMW M3 mirror when the car was only days old. Research on the Beemer showed the car had been damaged at the port and the mirror had been knocked off and resprayed before the dealer even got the car. This happens often enough that most importers have a paint booth right there where the cars are off loaded from the ships.

I've been doing paint protection film for over six years and removed lots of film and the paint under the hood coming off is the only instance where I have seen true factory paint lift off with the film ( not counting the factory pieces ). Last week I replaced yellowed 3M film on a white C6 Corvette, the hood, fenders, mirrors, bumper, rockers and wheel wells without a bit of trouble with adhesive left behind or any paint issues.

Last edited by Speed 2000; 07-28-2006 at 04:43 AM.
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Old 07-28-2006, 05:36 AM   #12
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thanks guys great info!
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Old 07-28-2006, 04:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed 2000
Under the bottom of the door? Was that a factory applied piece like just ahead of the rear wheels? I have seen paint come off from the underside of the hood before( basically where the sun never shines ) where the paint hadn't adhered properly, but just a small sliver. I have also seen paint come off when removing the factory pieces that were improperly installed. OEM paint protection film is applied way before the paint has cured and is dangerous to remove for that very reason.

....
No, when the car was new (2004.5), I had the piece ahead of the rear wheel removed, and wrapped the 3M clear bra across the bottom under the door. No problem at that time. As far as I know, the car was never repainted. I ordered it from the factory and watched closely when it was shipped and picked it up day after it came off the truck. The piece that caused me problem was removed last month, so the car was already couple years old.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:04 PM   #14
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I have pulled smaller pieces of it off (mirrors, side skirts, and below the front grill) but not the bumper or the hood.

The key is to make sure the sure is as hot as can be. Preferably, with the car parked in the sun for a few hours. Gradually pry an edge until you can grab hold of it. Then in one smooth motion, start peeling it off. It's important not to stop until the entire piece is off. That can be tough if you are positioned incorrectly. Be sure to maintain the smooth momentum ALL THE WAY THROUGH.
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:14 PM   #15
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Wow now I'm kinda glad I didn't get the clear bra.
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Wow now I'm kinda glad I didn't get the clear bra.
Nah.. I would agree with you if you got a 1st or 2nd generation 3M clearbra that yellow'd. Newer ones are much nicer and obviously the technology has advanced over the years so this *probably* is not an issue anymore. I would still recommend getting one. Usually you can take it back to your installer who will take it off for you if need be.
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Old 07-30-2006, 01:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highside107
Nah.. I would agree with you if you got a 1st or 2nd generation 3M clearbra that yellow'd. Newer ones are much nicer and obviously the technology has advanced over the years so this *probably* is not an issue anymore. I would still recommend getting one. Usually you can take it back to your installer who will take it off for you if need be.


The installer came to my home to install it so we chatted while he worked. According to him, in March of '06, 3M released a new formula of the clear bra compound that is meant to not yellow even after years of use. He said on a dark color like mine, yellowing is tough to see anyway, but on white and silver cars he has done with the old bra, slight yellowing is mildly noticeable after 3-4 months. With the new kind, he hasn't noticed that issue on cars he has done so far.
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Old 07-30-2006, 01:08 PM
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