MY350Z.COM Forums - Forced Induction

Honest Input (researched thread)

Lcat84 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:46:02 GMT

Sup guys, so I've gotten a wild hair to stick with my guns and go FI. I did a lot of research yesterday on turbo kits etc. I looked at old threads and got a good idea on what I'm getting myself into, but since this is a HUGE step and commitment, I want further input from experienced people.

I looked at old APS TT threads and the general 101 questions and things to know for FI, but nothing quite put the thumb on the issue if you will.

So this is what I've got as a wish list (that I will get in the next year if things go like the should): I'm going to get the APS Premium ball bearing TT kit, the APS 2.5" True Dual w/ metallic HFC, along with a Kinetix Velocity Manifold. I'll be purchasing all of this from Z1 Motorsports, and have them do the install/tune.

Now I only plan on running 8-9PSI boost for longevity issues, plus 400-430whp is plenty. I do not intend on getting a boost controller either. What I'd like from you guys is to help me fill in any blanks I may have left off to make sure I keep my engine running for as long as possible.

I understand that getting oil coolers and larger oil pans are a good thing, but how good are they? Is it worth the extra investment? Do I need to improve my stock radiator to help cooling as well? What other improvements are needed to keep the stock block happy?

And lastly, I've read that the APS turbos are the things that give out first on these kits, for the people that have them, what issues (if any) can I expect from this kit?

(Flame suit is on for those that feel the need)

Plenum volume vs HP for FI

str8dum1 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:36:44 GMT

Hey guys,

This thread
http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/44...enum-test.html

and Phunks new plenum
http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...or-my-car.html

had me thinking about plenum volume on FI cars.

So we have all seen Tony from MD's plenum spacer data showing that the 5/16 made the best hp over the 1/2" and the 3/4" actually lost power. But that was on some weaksauce NA motor. I mean who cares about NA! :)

Then you look at Sgsash and Phunk's tests. Sgsash made 15 hp more (336whp is pretty sick for a NA DE) just by allowing the runners essentially limitless air and Phunk's new plenum is almost 2x the magic "plenum volume should be at least the same volume as the motor' theory. SP seems to make very solid power with it...

So whats the deal with adding plenum volume through doubling up spacers. You can get 2 blox spacers for a total of 1.25" for under 200$.

Rough estimate
5/16" MD spacer alone only adds 0.75L
5/8" spacer adds 1.5L
2x 5/8 spacers adds 3.0L

Assuming they fit (solid motor mounts to lower the engine), how would this effect a CAMMED boosted car? No regard to off boost performance.

The general rule is that the bigger the plenum volume, the more right shifted the power curve gets.

I've search the webs but couldnt find what I was looking for. I know Supra guys musta played with this but my search terms must be too vague.

Ideas?

New Wastegate Comparison

TitanMotorsport — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:53:30 GMT

When Precision released their new 46mm Wastegate, we were asked by our clients to do a side by side comparison with the Tial 44mm, you are probably wondering, why not against the Tial 46mm?? and the reason is because even though Tial makes a 46mm, it is the 44mm that has the same mounting flange as Precision�s therefore if you have a header with that mounting flange already on it the decision would be between the Tial 44mm and the Precision 46mm. Below is the observations we were able to make by taking them apart, and comparing their internals.

Tial is a 44mm Wastegate that comes in a multitude of colors. Precision�s has a bit of a larger valve, 46mm, and it is only available in black. The boxes are the same size and they both come packed with the same foam material that completely protects every part from damage during shipping.

Below are the contents of the boxes the way they come, the clear difference is that the Precision comes with 3 extra springs in the box, that way you have the possibility to replace them without having to make a separate order for them.

As for the hardware, both have the banjo design, but the Precision brings an extra plug in case you don�t use one of the ports of the Wastegate and the Tial doesn�t have this in their hardware.

When side by side they look very similar, however the Precision unit is a bit smaller in height compared to the Tial.

The underside again is the same basic design, however you can see how the valve in the precision is a little bit larger (2mm) than the Tial unit.

Once apart, the precision comes standard with 2 springs, and the seat materials are visibly different, I �m not qualified to give a breakdown on the materials, however the structure of the seat itself is the same, and even though is hard to tell from the pictures they both use a 4 Allen key setup to hold the seat to the valve itself.

Internally the main difference is Precision uses a longer sleeve to hold the stem of the valve.

And last but not least the literature. Precision comes with a multi page full color instruction�s manual, Tial half a letter size paper printed in both sides.

Hope this can help you make an educated decision when in the market for a Wastegate.

Question on a Dyno Conversion Factor?

350Z400rwhp — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:17:19 GMT

Ok so say a car makes 230whp on a Dynopack stock and then makes 414whp. The stock crank hp is 287 so 230 is about 80% of that. Would that mean that my 414whp is like 520 crank hp? (287 * .80 = 230, 520 * .80 = 416) The reason I ask this is because my car doesn't feel like it has 500+ hp (even though it supercharged and only makes this from 6000 and up lol). Never has. Doesn't even feel like it's making 450hp. And yes I know the torque is linear because of the supercharger and all of that. Is my way of looking at this dyno correction off?

Pretty good numbers with a Turbonetics kit and a cool idea.....

350Z400rwhp — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:57:08 GMT

Sorry my first post of the dyno graph was too small here ya go........

A friend of mine sold his Turbonetics kit to his friend and he had it installed and tuned at a shop here in Columbus called Slowmotion Motorsports. I believe his was tuned using Uprev. Seems like they do pretty good work and even had a pretty cool idea for the intercooler. He has a G so with the limited airflow this would be a great idea! I'm going to have to meet up with him and check this out.

Attached Images

	Fan-Intercooler.jpg (107.6 KB)
	Turbonetics Dynopack.jpg (34.6 KB)

My built engine swap

binder — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:42:40 GMT

So earlier this year I installed my vortech. Of course I decided I wanted more. I fell into a great deal on a built motor along with heads.

Here is the rundown of the motor:
arias extreme duty 9:1 pistons
pauter rods
arp headstuds
ported heads
ferrera valvetrain
tomei 264 cams

Here are some pictures of my progress. I started yesterday getting things pulled off the motor and today I pulled the stock motor out.

There are way too many sensors and wire connections on this harness! My fingers are so sore I can barely type this out from pushing on those connectors to get them loose.

I had a strap break when I started hoisting the engine/trans out. Thankfully when it came crashing down it didn't hit any of my powersteering lines. Total suck.

I also found that my BPV for my vortech has the adjustment screw broken off. Any suggestions on what to do to replace that would be helpful.

It's a little tight in the garage....had to put the car in there diagonal to make room for the toolbox. lol

Attached Images

	SANY1097.jpg (318.7 KB)
	SANY1098.jpg (344.8 KB)
	SANY1100.jpg (347.4 KB)
	SANY1102.jpg (298.3 KB)
	SANY1104.jpg (338.2 KB)

Whos engine bay is this?

dave079 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:58:41 GMT

Just trying to catch this kid in a lie. There are not many Cosworth manifolds here and I know it looks familiar and one of you guys in FI would know.

http://my350z.com/forum/7926277-post4808.html

Attached Images

2.jpg (188.2 KB)

Steering shaft w/ APS twin turbro setup

amai21 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:32:40 GMT

I am a little concerned about how the steering shaft will not go all the way in the univeral joint, after the modifications that are required for the APS install. My end result looks the same as the installation guide picture. Though, I would like to get confirmation from others who have installed the kit. Is this normal and safe? Are there addtional modifications done by others?

The first picture is from APS installation guide, and the second one is from my car.

Attached Images

	steering_uni_joint_inst.jpg (102.1 KB)
	DSC_0115.JPG (385.1 KB)

WTF: Where to get O-ring for DW injectors

str8dum1 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:34:05 GMT

Just called DW and they will not sell just the O-rings for their injectors. You have to mail in your injectors and get them rebuilt. I dont need that. I just need o-rings for the top of the injector that goes into the fuel rails.

Anyone know where to get the o-rings for DW 600cc injectors? They are denso cores but the stock O-rings are too small..

I'd also like to replace the O-rings on my HKS 1000cc. They are also Denso cores, so I assume they are the same rings as well

They sell alot of O-rings at Ace hardware, but can you use them?

Thanks!

Turbo timer

wbama387 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:34:56 GMT

I have an hks turbo timer type 1 and all of my acc. stay on while it is counting down. Does anyone elses do this? My friend has an accord and all of his turn off so I didn't know if it was something normal for our cars.

Can oil consumption affect a S/C????

Wild350z — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:57:47 GMT

Just as the title says?

Was curious about putting a s/c on my oc engine.

G35 Sedan at Cobb with blown motor need advise

Kirks06 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:37:42 GMT

So a little back story I bought this Vortech V3 from Chef on here and installed the s/c with return fuel line DW 600 injectors among other things like bigger rad, oil cooler, tranny cooler, water/meth injection. So I take it to Cobb tuning to get a custom dyno tune. Well they call me and tell me the car was on the dyno and something inside the engine let go. Chris at Cobb Plano said I was making about 340 on a mustang dyno at about 13psi when something went boom. So I haven't heard anything back from them but I am guessing it's a bottom end issue. So I was thinking about buying a short block from Import parts pro and having Cobb bolt my heads on to the new short block. So does anyone think Cobb could have done something wrong? Also has anyone had any problems with Import parts pro's short block? I have done a lot of research and done a few engine builds but nothing as complex as a VQ motor. Should I try to do it myself or let them do it? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kirk

Supercharged VK56 G35 FTW :)

djamps — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:50:33 GMT

Plus the skyline is tearing it up too...

Haltec V.S Pro-efi

psychoballistic — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:52:09 GMT

Wondering how many people are running either the Haltec or the Pro-Efi EMS. I will be switching over to standalone this winter from the Utec and these are my options for the power i'm going for. Both systems are proving themselves over and over again from moderate to heavily modded builds.

Any information on why you chose the EMS you did and the key factors in your decisions would be much appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Engine strenght

edgui12 — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 00:13:30 GMT

Ok so everyone keeps tellin me if I boost my Z with too many lbs of boost the block will blow, which is obvious, but my question is about how many lbs would it still be safe to boost it up to? All those people tell me the block is very weak so it'll blow, how true is this??