How to do Twins right the first time!!!
#21
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Originally posted by JonathanG35
I agree totally. This is the kind of information everyone planning fi needs all in one place. My original inclination was to add it to the sticky thread "Turbocharger FAQ" but this is really much more directed toward actual implementaion and worthy of its own sticky.
I agree totally. This is the kind of information everyone planning fi needs all in one place. My original inclination was to add it to the sticky thread "Turbocharger FAQ" but this is really much more directed toward actual implementaion and worthy of its own sticky.
Best bet, just pin it at the top of the FI section where every future FI owner is drawn to, anyone else in favor??
#22
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Originally posted by Wicked350
Quick Quesion, when you're engine failed were you at the stock boost levels? What RPM? Did you have it tuned or was it out of the box emanage?
Quick Quesion, when you're engine failed were you at the stock boost levels? What RPM? Did you have it tuned or was it out of the box emanage?
I was running 8psi at an altitude of 5500 feet here in NM which is close to running 7psi at sea level. Before I went past stock boost, I was also pulling timing with the timing harness (with the diodes installed).
RPM...about 4000RPM in third gear
It was definately tuned for the psi I was running and had a AFR around 11.5 pretty much across the board. I was getting about 383rwhp actual hp not corrected with SAE for my altitude.
For alot more of the details, just PM me.
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Originally posted by gq_626
Short block=the bottom end "block", crank, pistons rods..etc...essentially everything below the head gasket.
Long block=short block+heads.
Ya wonder why they didnt call it short block and tall block???
Short block=the bottom end "block", crank, pistons rods..etc...essentially everything below the head gasket.
Long block=short block+heads.
Ya wonder why they didnt call it short block and tall block???
#28
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Okay, the term short block does include everything sharif mentioned, the crank, rods, pistons,...I should have used the term cylinder block instead which does not include the OEM rods and pistons. I should have made that distinction from the begining, but I was also relying on my diagram where I reference item 1 when I called it a small block. If you were to buy a short block from Nissan, it would cost you alot more than the 1300 I stated.
In my plan I said it will cost you about 1300, and that is based off of this site here and they call it a cylinder block:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...04&catalogid=1
In my plan I said it will cost you about 1300, and that is based off of this site here and they call it a cylinder block:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...04&catalogid=1
Last edited by going deep; 03-03-2005 at 04:23 PM.
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Good post for the basics however, not to be a troll, but we all know there are many people who have run forced induction with no engine problems, and although the info is good if you wish to build the motor, i feel it will scare some people away for FI land. I myself have over 78,000 miles on my Z with 8000 of those on my APS TT kit with my stock block with no problems.. Pushing well over 400 whp. And these are beat, hard, miles.... And my only other comment, is that a engine builder should be able to do the job in a bout a week or two, not 4-6... Thats all! Enjoy!
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Originally posted by one3502nv
Good post for the basics however, not to be a troll, but we all know there are many people who have run forced induction with no engine problems, and although the info is good if you wish to build the motor, i feel it will scare some people away for FI land. I myself have over 78,000 miles on my Z with 8000 of those on my APS TT kit with my stock block with no problems.. Pushing well over 400 whp. And these are beat, hard, miles.... And my only other comment, is that a engine builder should be able to do the job in a bout a week or two, not 4-6... Thats all! Enjoy!
Good post for the basics however, not to be a troll, but we all know there are many people who have run forced induction with no engine problems, and although the info is good if you wish to build the motor, i feel it will scare some people away for FI land. I myself have over 78,000 miles on my Z with 8000 of those on my APS TT kit with my stock block with no problems.. Pushing well over 400 whp. And these are beat, hard, miles.... And my only other comment, is that a engine builder should be able to do the job in a bout a week or two, not 4-6... Thats all! Enjoy!
a week or two is UNHEARD of among anyone I know who have rebuilt engines (but i agree, it looks good on paper-or online for that matter!)
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We just got ours back about 2 weeks ago for our other car. had pistons, rods, crank installed and balanced and then the complete long block reassembled with the cams being set and all the chains, hardware, etc, and took about 2 weeks... Guess it just depends on how busy the bulider is... Eitehr way, its definately nice to have a core to work with...
#34
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Originally posted by one3502nv
We just got ours back about 2 weeks ago for our other car. had pistons, rods, crank installed and balanced and then the complete long block reassembled with the cams being set and all the chains, hardware, etc, and took about 2 weeks... Guess it just depends on how busy the bulider is... Eitehr way, its definately nice to have a core to work with...
We just got ours back about 2 weeks ago for our other car. had pistons, rods, crank installed and balanced and then the complete long block reassembled with the cams being set and all the chains, hardware, etc, and took about 2 weeks... Guess it just depends on how busy the bulider is... Eitehr way, its definately nice to have a core to work with...
one3502nv: are you building you Z soon?, curious of how you are going about the project.
TODD
#35
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Originally Posted by one3502nv
Good post for the basics however, not to be a troll, but we all know there are many people who have run forced induction with no engine problems, and although the info is good if you wish to build the motor, i feel it will scare some people away for FI land. I myself have over 78,000 miles on my Z with 8000 of those on my APS TT kit with my stock block with no problems.. Pushing well over 400 whp. And these are beat, hard, miles.... And my only other comment, is that a engine builder should be able to do the job in a bout a week or two, not 4-6... Thats all! Enjoy!
Regarding your car, I have no doubt many people will get thousands of miles of carefree boosting out of the stock block. I got 14,000 out of mine...and fortunately didnt blow anything up before tearing it down for the rebuild. But the questtion of longevity comes into play...and also...if you intend to run 500whp plus, low compression forged internals become manditory..>IMHO.
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Originally Posted by Alang
Great write-up, but keep in mind that SGP sells built short and long blocks that have pretty much everything you covered, and they are reasonably priced when compared to buying the parts and paying a builder to put them together (SGP Built VQs).
Ordering from them would definatly cut down on your car's down time, and they do know a thing or two about Nissans.
Ordering from them would definatly cut down on your car's down time, and they do know a thing or two about Nissans.
What does the + $2000 core mean?
Upgraded Long Block #2: $6000 + $2000 Core
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Originally Posted by gq_626
...if you intend to run 500whp plus, low compression forged internals become manditory..>IMHO.
Really excited to hear that your car is about to take it's first breath as a TRUE MONSTER! I think myself, as well as a "couple" others are living through you and other peoples' projects coming to fruition here on the boards. How valuable all of your experiences will be to us when we can catch up
Quick question for you. You stated that you went 9.0:1 for your compression. I also remember you saying that you wish you would have went lower. What made you change your mind in wanting lower compression? Was it just to have more power safely?
I was thinking of going 9.3:1 or as you have 9.0:1 when the time comes for me. Of course I am looking for the best balance in safe boosting and retaining my engines torque before the boost hits. Right now my goal is to have 500 whp and as much longevity out of my APS TT Z as is possible.
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Originally Posted by calimarc
Hey Shariff~
Really excited to hear that your car is about to take it's first breath as a TRUE MONSTER! I think myself, as well as a "couple" others are living through you and other peoples' projects coming to fruition here on the boards. How valuable all of your experiences will be to us when we can catch up
Quick question for you. You stated that you went 9.0:1 for your compression. I also remember you saying that you wish you would have went lower. What made you change your mind in wanting lower compression? Was it just to have more power safely?
I was thinking of going 9.3:1 or as you have 9.0:1 when the time comes for me. Of course I am looking for the best balance in safe boosting and retaining my engines torque before the boost hits. Right now my goal is to have 500 whp and as much longevity out of my APS TT Z as is possible.
Really excited to hear that your car is about to take it's first breath as a TRUE MONSTER! I think myself, as well as a "couple" others are living through you and other peoples' projects coming to fruition here on the boards. How valuable all of your experiences will be to us when we can catch up
Quick question for you. You stated that you went 9.0:1 for your compression. I also remember you saying that you wish you would have went lower. What made you change your mind in wanting lower compression? Was it just to have more power safely?
I was thinking of going 9.3:1 or as you have 9.0:1 when the time comes for me. Of course I am looking for the best balance in safe boosting and retaining my engines torque before the boost hits. Right now my goal is to have 500 whp and as much longevity out of my APS TT Z as is possible.
In a few months I'll let you know if I can exceed 500rwhp on crappy 91 pump gas. I don't think that <9:1 is necessary to hit 500rwhp on 91, but I am hedging it with the cams and testpipes. I will also be adding Water injection and a fuel system upgrade eventually which I am sure will permit >>500rwhp on 91, sans detonation.