Blurr350z

iTrader: (1)

So if going with forged internals, should the stock cams be replaced or not. Does going FI create a threat to the cams

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

i have run 16psi, now running 14psi...with stock cams...you can definately make more power with the same boost pressure...wouldn;t hurt...should be done when the motor is out of the car (prior to torqing the heads down and putting on the rear and front timing cover)

stock cams are fine, i am happy with the power im making now, maybe in the future i'll go with some more aggressive cams and new valves and whatnot

TMAC7N7

iTrader: (1)

Any suggestions on what sgp short/long block i should get for the aps tt?

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

really all depends on how much you want to spend...you can definately get away with/ be thrilled with a build block and totally stocj heads/cams

make sure that you go with some pistons that have much beefier ringlands than some of the others out there (arias super duty)...i'm not familiar with the specs on the other pistons, but a handful of build motors have gone down because the pistons have been lacking (or the cooling issue has gone sour and plainly allowed the temps to get too high-which no piston can withstand these EXTREME heats--if that was indeed the case )

anyway...more aggressice cams (maybe JWT)..and addressing the valves--coatings...porting and polishing the head/ valve job, etc...there are MANY additional little things you can do...ultimately, you can/will make a ton of power with just doing the bottom end (550rwhp+)..but you can make MORE power, more efficiently with head work/cams...pushing LESS boost...but, of course, this means more $$$

it's really a matter of preference, not necessity

need: forged rods, strong forged pistons, main and head studs (good idea)

sq40

iTrader: (4)

Good Post. Thanks

D350Z10

iTrader: (20)

I am almost Ready to install the Greddy Twin turbo kit, But i need a little help with some internal work.. ANY SPONSERS willing to help, i would be Honored!!
2004 Nissan 350z- 6-speed sunset lemans
Engine Modifcations
-Greddy Evo 2 Exhaust
-Helix Test Pipes
-Crawford Plenum
-Crawford Strut bar
-Injen Intake
-Unorthodox Pulley Kit
-Stillen Grounding kit
-Greddy Emanage Fuel Computer
-Techno Square ECU Flash
Exterior Modifcations
-Nismo LMGT4 Wheels w/ BF Goodrich T/A KD tires
-Tein Lowering Springs
-Limo Tints all around
-Street Glow LED Kit
Interior Modifcations
-Jl Custom Box with two 10'W6 subs with LED lights
-Jl 1000/1 Amp
-Jl 3004 Amp
-Jl wiring and amp kit
-Alpine Type R speakers comp/ co-axle
-Alpine IVA D300 head unit/dvd/nav
-5 farad Cap by C.A.P
-K40 radar
Their are a few things under construction, i will
notify you asap with details!
Thanks
T.Dhillon
Here is my website with pictures
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/734043

Neo105

Wow thanks for the great explanation, since i will be building a TT in the future, and since knowledge over here is limited conceirning the VQ engine, so this should definitly help me on my way!

JonathanAboona

iTrader: (5)

stupid question.....
if i was to pull the motor myself, should i tear the motor down myself and send the parts off to the shop along with all the forged goodies i purchased or will they charge me the same...... i put the car in the garage already for the winter and dont really need to have it until next spring. Here is a layout of my plan.

First over the next 2 months whenever I have time, just slowly take the front end apart and eventually the motor

Next tear the motor down and get all the codes for all the bearings etc and order all the parts that I can afford to get rods pistons yada yada yda. All i want to be at is the 650-750 daily driver strength range even though I will likley keep it tuend down to 450-500

now here is where I dont know what to do
I mean I am decent with cars and have alot of buddies who are good with them, if time wasn't a issue is it possible for a person to build the motor themselve ? or is it just too hard and another factor in this is how much would a shop charge if i said here is my torn down block, here are the parts put it back together ?

next I would put the motor back in myself.

Another really stupid question, I cant afford the actual focred induction yet, if i went to a low compression piston but was driving N/A still for another year or so is this possible. or will the motor not function properly, is there any way i can adjust the air fuel until the F/I arrives. I am guessing if I am running low compression N/A the car will actually perform less until it arrived, how much less and like i said above is this possible or will it destroy the motor ?

I am open for suggestions on what people think i should do
Limited budget yet can do without the Z for a good 6 months

RedLeader

iTrader: (9)

If I had it to do over again, I'd buy a spare block and have it built before I ever pulled the engine out of my car. I had a two week delay while I waited for MAIN BEARINGS that were on backorder. Then the actuators I needed had to be located. There are always going to be delays, but you can minimize them. If you're going to build a low-compression motor, upgrade the cams while the engine is out of the car. When I contacted two different tuners, that was virtually the first question they asked me:
"You built the engine and didn't upgrade the cams?" (I felt so foolish and insignificant.
I may have to eat my gun and end it all) What was I thinking?

Needmo$4myz

Just curious, anyone ever thought of buying a different engine and swapping out?

JERZ33

Trying to compile a very complete and detailed list of whats needed when building a "second" motor. Wheather that be for FI or just because... this seems to be very... uh... expensive? Am I including unnessecary items? I pretty much listed every parts I found in EM from the FSM...

1. Timing chain tensioner (secondary)
2. Internal chain guide
3. Timing chain tensioner (secondary)
4. Camshaft sprocket (EXH)
5. Timing chain (secondary)
6. Timing chain (primary)
7. Camshaft sprocket (INT)
8. Camshaft sprocket (EXH)
9. Timing chain (secondary)
10. Camshaft sprocket (INT)
11. Slack guide
12. Crankshaft sprocket
13. Timing chain tensioner (primary)
14. Intake valve timing control cover
15. Chain tensioner cover
16. Intake valve timing control cover
17. Idler pulley bracket
18. Idler pulley
19. Crankshaft pulley
20. Front oil seal
21. Water pump cover
22. Front timing chain case
23. Front Engine Cover
24. Rear timing chain case
25. Tension guide
26. Water drain plug (Front)
27. Oil pan gasket set
28. Oil pan (upper)
29. Oil pan (lower)
30. Connector bolt
31. Relief valve
32. Oil strainer
33. Rear plate
34. Rear cover plate
35. Rocker cover (right bank)
36. Rocker cover (left bank)
37. Rocker cover gasket (2)
38. Cover Note: I have no clue what this is…
39. Knock sensor
40. Rear oil seal retainer
41. Oil jet
42. Thrust bearings
43. Pilot bushing (M/T models)
44. Main bearings
45. Crankshaft
46. Crankshaft Key
47. Main bearing caps
48. Main bearing cap bolts
49. Main bearing beam
50. Baffle plate
51. Connecting rod bolts
52. Connecting rod bearing caps
53. Connecting rod bearings
54. Connecting rods
55. Snap rings
56. Piston pins
57. Pistons
58. Oil rings
59. Second rings
60. Top rings
61. Cylinder block

Maybe I should get with Jason and detail this all out? Is all this required? Are there kits (besides the gasket sets)?

*help*

SuperSportZ

I have build small block chevy's before and when making high horsepower engines I have always switched to a 4340 forged crank for strength. Is the stock crank on the VQ strong enough? I dont even know what its made of but everyone is using forged rods and pistons but never says anything about the crank. Just curious. I know a small block and a VQ are very different engines but a lot of stock small blocks back in the day had 8.5:1 compression stock so I would assume if someone were to build the block and add the TT later the engine should perform alright albeit with a lot less power than stock.

SuperSportZ

Another thing I have questions about is what to do with the ECU once the engine and turbo's are all set. Im sure it has to be reprogrammed doesnt it? With my 300ZXTT if we upgraded to 555cc injectors or anything we needed to get a reprogram from JWT and it really made a huge difference. I noticed JWT doesnt make ECUs for the 350 yet so where would one send it to have a reprogram?

nickatzou

What is that TURBONATOR? Does it work? Whould any of you use it, or has anyone used it? I have a stock 350Z would you recomend that for just a little more pep? I want more power but dont want to risk the life of my engine bc its my every day driver!

pdjafari

iTrader: (-1)

^^ya turbonator is good for at least 200-300 rwhp...

tachiro

nice info men

JohnnyAngry

Um, I'm a noob, I'll go ahead and get that out of the way. You say buying a new shortblock for the engine. But, my engine already has a shortblock in it? If so, how do I make sure that I get the right kind of shortblock, and not someone else's stock engine? Do I need to ask for a specialty shortblock, like a special material/finish? How would I order the correct shortblock? Does it have a special name?

Thanks for your patience, and answers.

going deep

In my original write up, I discuss basically building up an engine from scratch. This is to minimize the downtime of your Z while you turn it into a monster. The short block I mention, is to buy a stock 350Z short block. This includes just the actual block, as shown in the drawing on page 1. There is no pistons, rods, crank,...just the bare block. Then, you buy the rest of the stuff I mentioned, eg the forged pistons, rods, ARP studs,...

In my plan, you are building up a separate engine, then you do an engine swap for the built motor, to your stock motor. Lastly, you sell your original stock motor.

More questions, just ask.

Ernie

JohnnyAngry

Ah, I see. So the shortblock is stock, but most everything else are higher quality parts to keep the engine from blowing once you crank up the HP/Boost? Thanks very, VERY much for explaining it to me.

overZealous1

iTrader: (27)

it may be tough to get just a shortblock from a junk yard or something. they will most likely only do long blocks with the heads. no biggy, you will have the extra parts to sell when done. just remember the vq35 comes in many nissan cars and minivans. the vq35 is used in the altima, maxima, murano, quest, and ofcourse the g35's. just be sure if you get one from an altima or something, use the 350z heads, or mainly the 350z cams. you will be replacing pistons and the like so the rest is all the same.