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I recently shot my first handguns and would like to purchase one for myself. I dont really think I need it for self protection, as i've always been under the impression that you are more likely to get shot if you are holding a gun. That is to say that *most* people that pull guns during crimes do so for indimidation purposes and don't want to shoot you any more than you want to be shot. It is only when you return the threat that people get frightened and start shooting.
*I understand that I'll probably get more replies to this comment then I will get recommendation on purchasing a gun *
I would like to get a hand gun for target practice. Basically just taking it to the range and hanging out with other frinds that are gun enthusiasts.
Like I said, I recently shot my first hand guns... a titanium .44 Magnum and a .50 desert eagle.
They were both pretty potent particularly the .44... I'm assuming because it was much lighter.
I'd like to get something that has decent power but also does not kick so much that I cant get it to aim reliably with practice. I'm definately into looks and would like a gun that looks as good as it performs.
I'm also hoping to get something that doesnt cost me 100$ everytime I want to go shoot it. The guy with the desert eagle said that each bullet cost like 1.25-1.50$ (he was actually saving the casings to pack his own, I guess)
Also, Do most handguns have the options of adding laser sights?..what about silencers?
Does the addition of a silencer hinder the performance? I would think that by elongating the barrel it would improve the accuracy. Is this true?
I'm 6'2" 210lbs. with larger hands. I want something that isnt too tiny but also dont want enything to massive.
P.S. I also have a healthy Fear/Respect for all guns. I intend on taking classes to learn all safety features/techniques. I was anticipating on purchasing a gun and then learning the particulars about that specific weapon. Is that how it normally works, or are most classes more of a generalization of all guns and safety features?
I'd appreciate any comments,photos,links,etc...
Robert
get a a sig mosquito 22lr pistol, it has great ergonomics of that of it's big brothers. you can learn all the fundamentals, and become quite good at your skills. a huuuuuge plus is ammo is cheap for the 22! I believe every gunowner should have a 22lr pistol and rifle in their collection.
If you want a cheap plinker for target practice a .22 is a good place to start because the ammo is REALLY cheap when compared even to 9mm. If you want something more potent and still be semi cheap get a gun chambered in .40 S&W or .45 ACP then get a conversion barrel to chamber it in 9mm. You can shoot multiple caliber rounds through the same gun that way. When you want to practice shoot the 9mm as it is cheaper, then have the .40 or .45 for SD. I'm by no means playing down 9mm nor am I caliber whore, I actually have a 9mm as my SD weapon. I'm a firm believer that with today's modern HP ammo, you don't need to have a .45. Sig Sauer also has the P220, P226, and P229 that can be chambered in .22, 9mm, 40 S&W, and .357 Sig with conversion parts that they sell.
I would say for a first handgun get something reliable, over something that is "pretty" or super expensive.
Im about your size (6' 215lbs) and have fairly large hands and the XD fit me like a glove. I chose a Tactical 9mm. They are offered in any size (3", 4", 5" barrel) and grip configuration (standard and compact) to suite your needs. Id start with a 9mm (cheaper at range) so it can serve as a range and SD gun. But like mentioned a .22 would be the super cheap way into target shooting.
3650 rounds through it, it has always gone bang, and there is a ton of aftermarket support for it. Lasers/lights can be mounted to pistols with accessory rails (most guns you would look at have them)
In most cases, silencers actually hurt the accuracy of a weapon. Un-like the barrel, the can is not rifled. It also slows the rounds velocity and can reduce penetration of the projectile.
to the OP- I have similar outlook on guns as you, I have a LTC-A in MA and can carry most places but choose not to for similar reasons. My suggestion is to look at the S&W M&P line of handguns. My first gun purchase was an M&P 9c which was an amazing gun, felt great, extremely reliable, and small enough to conceal if the need ever arose, however, I recently traded it for an M&P .40c because the .40 allows me to purchase conversion barrels for approx. $125 which change the caliber to either 9mm or 357 depending on what I would prefer to shoot and this means that I can have pretty much two very good guns for under $600. This also allows me to shoot the cheaper 9mm ammo while having the .40 available in case I ever needed it for personal protection. The conversion barrels you purchase can be threaded by the manufacturer (Storm Lake) when you purchase it to accept silencers. I would also recommend trying the Sig P239 as that is what my brother has and it is an amazing gun as well for it's own reasons but also bigger and significantly more expensive. There are so many guns out there that it's hard to say which one you'll find works best for you but hopefully this helps you out a little with your decision.
Here is a pic of the M&P .40c (not mine)
The M&P series allow for Crimson Trace Grips which contain sighting lasers embedded in the actual grips of the gun if that's what you'd want, there is also an accessory rail for a small flashlight. If you have big hands you may opt for the full size version of the M&P, these offer larger rails for mounting accessories and higher capacity. My gun also came with three different grip handles (S, M, L) to fit a variety of hand sizes.
Last edited by 07sanmarino; 08-12-2009 at 08:19 AM.
I'll throw out a vote for HK. I carry a USPc in 9mm daily and couldn't be happier. The P7 comes out every now and then, but not often.
If you want cheap fun go the .22lr route as others have already suggested. If you want only one gun, the ability to have stopping power and shoot often at a range stick to the normal calibers - 9mm, .40s&w and .45acp. If you get into the .357sig, 5.7, .44mag and .50AE type calibers expect to pay more for your ammo.
As mentioned already, suppressors are not rifled and the round does not come in contact with one. You'll also want to check your state laws to see if there legal or not. If they are, there's a couple of different ways to go about owning one. That being said, you can add a suppressor to virtually any modern firarm, you just have to have a threaded barrel. You can purchase several firearms with a threaded factory barrel (HK and Sig) or go with an aftermarket barrel for those that do not come with one.
I respect your opinion, can you elaborate on why you feel that way on both points?
Lasers are the mark of the poor shooter. Though fun as hell, in a SHTF scenario, it will hinder response times (as the shooter with the laser will wait to make sure the laser has obtained the target). I'll freely admit that the greater the distance the more justifiable one has in use of a laser. But any quality scope/sight will would work just as will without the possibility of giving away your position before the shot is taken. IMO with a handgun its pretty much useless, in terms of personal protection. Otherwise when at the range have at it but, keep in mind the way you practice is the way you'll react in real life.
As for lights, my statement is purely opinion. Ive worked with other lights before and have had problems with them staying attached while running/crawling/fighting ect. At least Glock-wise, one I switched to their product specifically made for the gun I used, that issue was remedied. So I then to try to keep every attachment (regardless of the weapon) the same brand as the gun. Seems to work better and normally the manuf. will back you up if there's ever a problem.
__________________ Gun Totin' Liberals: Left of Center But Always on Target
also another consideration to look at is the caliber of the pistol
as of now it is hard to get ammunition easily due to obama cutting the ability for the military to sell the once fired brass until it is destroyed, which cut the production of ammo by 80%, ive been trying to get .357 sig ammo for about 2 months so im left with swapping my barrel to my .40 cal for carry purposes
In most cases, silencers actually hurt the accuracy of a weapon. Un-like the barrel, the can is not rifled. It also slows the rounds velocity and can reduce penetration of the projectile.
That is completely wrong and has been since early Vietnam era. Back then they had wipes, that would wear out, and rub across the round. No such technology is used any more.
Suppressor actually increase accuracy as they remove the turbulent air pressure around the round upon exit. They do however shift point of impact, but most suppressor have adjustable indexes to counter this. Of course they are not rifled, so accuracy is still largely upon the barrel and gun.
Typically there is not a decrease in velocity, some have even shown a small increase, again due to the round not having to fight turbulent air on exit.
Mine, and my most accurate gun, due to reduced recoil and point of impact repeatability from the suppressor.
Lasers are gay, and can create dependency, and studies have shown most people are slower with lasers, due to trying to get the dot in the most perfect spot, instead of just shooting as one that knows about tactical aiming would.
And I do have experience with them:
Crimson Trace laser-module is on the other side. I just bought the gun because it was tacticool. Crimson Trace does however make a fine laser, and have no problem with them, just the whole concept that it makes a better shooter.
Last edited by MagicPie; 08-12-2009 at 05:39 PM.
Reason: wording
Looking to purchase my first hand gun.
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