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Hey guys, I need quite a bit of help here with my 350z... first of all, here is a list of modifications:
6 speed manual transmission
3.5L v6 motor
I upgraded from an open differential to an OEM LSD
ATI Procharger kit with front mount intercooler and fuel management unit
NX nitrous oxide N-tercooler kit to cool front mount intercooler with button in center ash-tray
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
Modifications added at Vivid Racing:
Cometic Head Gaskets
Bored block from 95.5mm slugs to 96mm
Wiseco 96mm Forged Pistons
Eagle Forged Rods
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Head studs
ARP Main studs
Pro1 Topspeed stainless steal headers
Stainless steel test pipe (cat-deletes)
Stillen stainless steel Y-pipe
Borla Stainless steel Y-pipe back system
ATI Procharger pulley kit = 14 PSI
TurboXS Utec Programmer and controller
TurboXS Type-H Blowoff valve
DeatschWerks 550cc injectors
AAM Stage 1 Fuel Return System
Cosworth Main bearings
Cosworth Piston/Rod bearings
I think that is pretty much it. On a stock motor with 20" wheels/tires, I ran a 12.9 sec @ 111.4 mph. Since then, I have had a motor completely built as you can see above. The newest problems are as follows:
1) The motor doesn't seem to want to keep full boost at and above 5000 rpms. I currently make 10 PSI at 5000 rpms, then my car falls on its face as I lose acceleration, then bounce back in boost, then out of boost again. I have been on the phone with Procharger and TurboXS, and to no fix. I have also tightened the crap out of the belts.
2) My 14 PSI kit is chewing up belts like crazy! I have done pretty much everything imaginable to one of these front cog drive belts. I have tightened, loosened, bought a longer one, tried the tensioner on the top of the belt (smooth side vs. smooth side) and the tensioner pulley would not fit. I am sick of buying belts and being affraid of getting on my motor.
Are my issues computer/ecu related? Tuning related? Belt sliggage/defect related? I am at the end of my rope... This motor build + some add ons put me at 11K (for this go around ONLY). For that I could have gone LS2. But now I have a built motor... can anyone help? Any suggestions? I live in AZ now (was northern New York) and I will travel pretty much anywhere in AZ, SoCal, Las Vegas, New Mex, and West Texas. Thank you for your time and I hope you can help.
Try tuning it with a smaller pulley (9psi) and see if your car still holds boost. I am having the EXACT same issue w/ my setup @ 14psi + (except on a twin turbo setup,) however on lower psi everything is perfectly fine! 10psi, 12 psi = Wonderful!... and 14psi map the HP drops flat on its face after 5k rpms
__________________ Performance Shops - "Better than being a weather man," where you can always be wrong, still keep your job, and F' ppl's stuff up.
hey guys, I need more help here. I know there are other people out there that are killing belts. Any alternatives? Pulley sizes? Shimming possibilities? This is beyond insane...
You have run into the same road block other ATI guys have . Vortech guys have belt slipage issues at upper PSI levels . I guess it comes down to making a choice....... do I stick a bunch of money into the SC system to try to get it to work  Do I back off the PSI a knotch and be happy with it  Do I ditch the SC and go turbo for more power .
I took #1 and Im still working on it 2 years later . Could have been done last year , but money has become the issue now . Im happy with what I have , but in the long run I think it would have been less money and hassle to have gone turbo very early in the quest for more power
And liberals are like dogs . They bark till everyone is annoyed.
well since I just built the motor, I want to run some boost. I mean, pretty much what I'm hitting at 5K rpm is 10 PSI of boost... and that isn't crazy. I just feel like I spent a boat load of money, and honestly, my car doesn't feel any faster right now than it did with 7psi and a stock motor. I think it might if things turn around and boost increases to 7K rpm, but I need to solve these 2 issues first. I know that these can't be hard to overcome... the solution is probably going to be brainless... so I can't wait to find out! Thanks for the help so far guys! Tomorrow I am going for a major run on my belts...
haha, well I just moved down here to Yuma at the beginning of the year, so I'm open to suggestions for other shops that may help rectify my situation... Does anyone make different pulleys for this bracket/kit? I heard Reichard Racing can possibly do them, but I haven't made the effort yet to contact them. I'm beginning to think that this is due to the 44 tooth pulley having smaller teeth that are not as spaced out. I took a good hard look at the differences in all of my pulleys, and the teeth on the 44 tooth pulley are closer together and less square (even before wearing down). Call me crazy, but this might have a slight bit to do with the belt acting like it wants to jump off the kit... thanks for all the imputs. I'm still plugging away as we speak...
i would not tighten then serpentine belt to much. i did that and my tensioner came flying off on the highway when i was in high rpm. not to mention it shreaded the belt and scared the crap out of me. next thing are the pullies of the cog drive worn out? if so i would replace then (all 4) you should have 3/8" of plat at 20 lbs. of finger pressure. i own a procharger also and i had a problem when i had that bov.
i think i had the wrong one though. i hope this might help you.
thanks for all the help so far. I put the 880 belt back on, and tried it the way that procharger illustrates in their manual, and the belt seems to wear alot better, but is still getting tore up on the tooth side of the belt. The pulley teeth all look fine, but I just noticed that on the 44 tooth pulley, that the teeth were closer together, and the actual teeth were more rounded than square. This pulley only has approx 2000 miles on it, so I'm pretty sure that they are not wore down. Also, I am going to change back to the procharger by-pass valve and see what happens. The Type-H bov will supposedly work (coming from TurboXS over the phone), but now I just noticed that they have a new BOV out that is designed for use with S/C. Anyways, it really shouldn't make a difference. If anything, I thought a BOV that can handle 35 PSI would work a lot better then a lesser quality procharger part. But anyways, I will try loosening up the belts a little and going back with the procharger by-pass valve, and I will post an update sometime here soon... My new tires need a "break-in" damn it!
Yes, the BOV does flutter.... it sounds funny at first, but at least I know its working. However, I didn't get to try a run without the BOV and back to the procharger by-pass valve due to, as you can see, a broken belt...
And I'm kinda confused... like the belt actually took your fingers off? That would be crazy if so... damn