HKS 350Z GT-SS GT2530 Turbo Kit
#121
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Originally Posted by damojo2003
No I am not, I am giving you information to start your search. That is why we are here. You said "why you need to know that", makes it obvious to me that you did not tune your car
#124
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Originally Posted by phat04350z
So this turbo is efficiant at 450-500HP, but lets say you run it at 350hp what would happen? I know running the turbo at 100% efficiancy makes it run hot and makes it work more then it should. I would think running outside the efficiency rating on the low end would cause some failuer to the turbo itself. Or spool time is delayed which in turn is a loss in power through out the band. Why not get a turbo that is ment for its sole purpose what your looking for. Same goes for an exhaust when picking out a turbo you want that to be sufficient so the turbo doesnt need to compress more air the needed or vise versa. Seems silly to me to spend more money then needed on a turbo that will hurt you in power through out the band. Curious as to why you would want to do this.
you have a point, but a VERY small one and almost negligable in an actual hp or spool difference. you could match the compressor map perfectly to the limits of the motor and not need or use boost controlling devices, and this is how quite a few turbo systems have been designed in the past for stock vehicles.
in order for a manufacturer like hks to do a different kit and turbo for each application in 20hp increments would be retarded and way out of cost effiecentcy to manufacture. despite your arguement or questions about the lower hp kit, it sounds about perfect for stock block builds and still leaves a little headroom to keep the turbo's in a safe EFFECTIVE range. spool would be almost instant on turbos of that size, as with most of the kits designed for the VQ, even with alot higher hp potential right out of the box.
#125
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Originally Posted by phat04350z
So this turbo is efficiant at 450-500HP, but lets say you run it at 350hp what would happen? I know running the turbo at 100% efficiancy makes it run hot and makes it work more then it should. I would think running outside the efficiency rating on the low end would cause some failuer to the turbo itself. Or spool time is delayed which in turn is a loss in power through out the band. Why not get a turbo that is ment for its sole purpose what your looking for. Same goes for an exhaust when picking out a turbo you want that to be sufficient so the turbo doesnt need to compress more air the needed or vise versa. Seems silly to me to spend more money then needed on a turbo that will hurt you in power through out the band. Curious as to why you would want to do this.
When you look at most dyno plots with boost curves, the spool time is not typically delayed or increased relative to the amount of boost running. The wastegate in conjunction with a boost controller will determine when to open to release and close the gates to accumulate to stabilize pressure in any fashion... however, accumulating boost will take time itself. For an example, two identical engines with same turbo setups are on a dyno for tuning. One is hitting 10 psi and the other is 15 psi. The time for the 15 psi engine to hit 10 psi will be same, if not very similar, to the engine that hits 10 psi. However, for that engine to hit 15 psi, it'll take more time, obviously.
Say you are tuned with this kit at max 450 rwhp. Now, you want to cruise along the freeway and make 350 rwhp. There's absolutely NOTHING WRONG. NOTHING WILL HAPPEN. Because a turbo is efficient at 450 rwhp does NOT mean the turbo will not be efficient at 350 rwhp. What you want to look out for is running a turbo beyond it's airflow capacity and efficiency... then the turbo will be spitting out hot air, put simply more or less.
I think you are thinking WAY too much about this. Talk to a local tuner and read some material online to understand how turbos work. A few Z'ers already posted some links to provide the education as needed.
#127
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Originally Posted by kzshin
anyone install the turbo yet??
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