sleeper832

OK, well I'm in the "exciting" process of figuring out which exact setup I am going to need, for the numbers I want to put up. Nothing has worked better for me in the past than to find out what worked for others.

I am going to go with a single turbo setup, haven't decided on the position yet, and will worry about which turbo to use once I get the engine ready to go. I'm looking to put up about 400-420rwhp, with lower compression pistons. So...

What compression ratio has worked for you, and what kind of turbo setup are you using? What specific pistons do you prefer? What brand of rods have worked for you?

I was thinking of doing 8.8:1 wiseco pistons with eagle rods. Also, if you did all this, did you have your crank balanced to your specific application?

One more, have any of you gone FI with stock compression and stock pistons, but aftermarket rods? If so, did that work out?

txshldm

iTrader: (4)

I am using the powerlab kit on stock block making 444whp. IMO you are wasting money building your motor to only make 400-420. If ur set on a ST def go with the PL. Kit.

sleeper832

thanks for your 2 cents. how long have you been running boost on the stock internals? Is it a daily driver?

I would love to be in the 444rwhp range and be safe, I just don't want to drive the car like a little girl because I'm scared of breaking something because I didn't just build the motor.

Also, did you get your work done at Altered Atmosphere Motorsports in MD? I've been looking at their site quite a bit and was hoping to get some info from them this week.

sleeper832

I've subscribed to a thread down the way about forged build with stock compression and it has a lot of good information as well. I think I may change out the rods no matter what, but I just don't want to go crazy with the pistons and compression ratio if i dont have to.

I'm really looking for a respectable, streetable, daily driver that will scare my gf and friends, and leave me as headache-free as possible, so I'm not looking to break any records or anything. Its tough to find that safety line with as much stock as possible.

Vas@Extended

iTrader: (17)

The "mean" people arent here yet.. there probably sleeping lol and they will ask you to search this topic bc it has been discussed plenty of times... but.. are you looking to do just rods and pistons?.. Have you considered Forged performance S1 short block?.. it will do great for your power goals and much more if you want to up the boost, which you probably will.

txshldm

iTrader: (4)

Yup I just got my most recent tune with them. It is AMAZING. JT def knows what he is doing. Their number is in my sig, give them a call and tell them I sent you. You won't be let down. Shoot me a PM and I can give you some more info and get you hooked up with them.

txshldm

iTrader: (4)

BTW. My car is a DD and I drive it like it should be driven. It has seen plenty of WOT action. IMO 400whp can be very "safe" if tuned right. Look for the stock block FI thread around here, lots of good info there

sleeper832

haha thanks vas, i figure ill get flamed, but hopefully my question will be answered as well. and as for the s1 short block, im not even sure what that is, and it probably isn't within my budget. (blonde girlfriends are expensive). But whats up with that block? How much?

IIQuickSilverII

iTrader: (13)

OP, think keith(txs) already put it pretty clear for you....as far as longetivity, if thats all you are after, you can run even lower boost than he is and run a safer 400whp(~6psi) on stock block if you are worried. IF you have the money to upgrade your block then let me put it simple(and aiming on the safe side):

a) get the PL w/ GT35r out the box plus a block like this http://www.importpartspro.com/st1vqloblni3.html (add Cosworth/HKS gasket..HR gasket might be fine) + 3" exhaust like JIC ST+ 3/8" spacer ..and you should be good for about ~480whps........

b)you can add CJM or AAM or FuncT. Fuel return and you will be good to ~550whps....

c)you can upgrade your UTEC for a standalone(haltech,proefi,fcpm,vipec) add 750cc-800cc injectors and shot to max out that gt35r..~650whp (might need cams for that)


note. all whp #s are estimates and depends on how much psi you want to push.i was jsut trying to give youa reference

Rommy

iTrader: (8)

You're looking at about the same setup I had in mind, I've got a Powerlab kit. I'm skeptical about the Eagle rods though, I'm thinking something a little stronger may be in order, considering I want to break 500WHP.


To txshldm: That's a great number, 444WHP, however aren't you afraid you're going to snap a rod like that? Stock rods are terrible, and rarely good for over 400HP. At your point I'd have to say you're treading on thin ice, running such high boost on the stock rods.


To sleeper832 again: Might want to get headstuds as well. I've been told that would be a really good idea when going FI. I personally am going to do pistons, rods, cams, headstuds, and a meth kit to keep things cooler. Can't really afford a new block, but I'm fairly certain I can break 500HP safely with just the above mods.

IslandZavage

iTrader: (8)

400 shouldnt be an issue.. No need to build the block if thats all ur shooting for, BUT.. It will quickly NOT BE ENOUGH!!! 1st thing is find a Tuner/Installer and talk to them and get their opinions.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...for-noobs.html

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Op-just know regardless of build, even at 400whp your car could blow up. Being built isnt as much piece of mind as most like to believe. I had a block rated for 1000whp crap out at 525whp after 9000miles.

390whp and my ST kit lasted 3000 miles before going boom. Dont listen to the clowns who say 400whp is safe. It may last you if you drive like a pu$$y fart, I refuse to believe 380+whp on stock block driven by somebody who REALLY drives the car will last.

Nobody on this site has broken an Eagle rod AFAIK, and some people push serious power through them.

Everybody asking questions in this thread needs to go do research for their own good, these builds, threads, and questions have been answered hundreds if not thousands of times.

IslandZavage

iTrader: (8)

Im pretty sure Eagle Rods can handle alot more than 500HP.

sleeper832

thanks a lot for the info guys! this is really going to make things easier! i think im going to have to stick more to TXS's style and keep it fairly low key and easier on the wallet.

My car has about 70 thousand miles on it already though, I'm terrified of destroying something. If I were to keep it low key, bullet-proof rods/pistons while maintaining that goal horsepower of 420-(now)440, would I need to get the crank balanced to that specific rod/piston combo?

sleeper832

alberto, what specifically went wrong for it all go boom when it done those times?

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Your thinking to far into it. Buy a basic block from any of the forums reputable vendors, and have it installed. They will do the balancing for you and deliver a short block you can swap in or have swapped in that will hold the power you desire. For your goals, no headwork is neccessary, even cams.

IIQuickSilverII

iTrader: (13)

actually eagle rods are fine, but if you like something better i personally like Brian Crower(BC) rods.....They are track raced proven well over 1000whp.

L17s are fine...L19s will however eliminate any little worry you had if there was any. For cams, 264º duration works well on midrange and still makes power up top, wich is important with single turbos since they make the power more on the top end already. Plus 264º gives better idle with out jsut jacking rpms up. If you arent doing something crazy on your heads, i like the bc cams as well springs shims. Keep in mind stock VQ heads are pretty good stock.

sleeper832

I'm really trying to keep this thing as much of a stock look, sound, idle, and reliable as POSSIBLE, while getting a good kick in the pants. So a crazy build is out of my realm and out of my budget easily. My main goal is to have FI, some legit power that will be fun on the highway, while keeping my peace of mind as much as possible.

Have you guys experienced awful idle's when going FI?

sleeper832

And I am sorry for asking the question again, i know im not the first, but i sure as hell won't be the last. Its just easier to talk to people directly and ask all the things that pop in right away. This site has been more than a help for me and I really appreciate you all dealing with me asking the same question again.

txshldm

iTrader: (4)

Rommy- yes I know I'm pushing the limit, but honestly I will push it for now. Car runs great with 11.4 AFR and still only on 9lbs. I guess only time will tell.
Alberto - yes there may be no "safe" limit ,even on a built motor. ....anything can happen. Again time will tell.
Me pushing the limit will help others down the road.