eZg

iTrader: (5)

Not to be a Negative Nancy, especially since I am male,

BUT

Looking at the "Top 25 FI" stickie, I don't see many of those guys with the same block. I admit, I'm not sure how many have blown/sold vs a planned second round. Maybe four of the same guys still post but most of them are currently down........

Highway Riding

iTrader: (6)

If i had that type of cash i would buy a RB26 motor-rb25 tranny and have a shop install and tune it to around 400HP or whatever they could get out of it. Either that or i would try and find an already built Z or G to keep it in the family!

CTS13

iTrader: (3)

Man if i had 50k, id put 10k into my s13 and 40k into a business formyself.

bubblehead-g

Thanks alberto, I have been following your build forever, and while I definitely wasn't thinking of going as extreme as you, your opinion carries alot of weight. I have alot to think about now. I will sit on the decision another couple months I guess, although to be honest I am leaning towards just saying screw it and trading the G in for an S4 or 335. I think the wife would be happier with that too. We shall see.

Thanks everyone for the help, and if I do decide to go FI I will take tons of pretty pictures.

Blackbird CPV35

iTrader: (19)

Im still on my first engine, knock on wood

but with that being said, I would have started with a different car if I had to do it again

thom000001

Ditto, and ditto....

GTR (at auction <$60K now) + Cobb access port = 125mph traps, and awesome in the crap chicago winters

Tom

Reality350

iTrader: (25)

Sell the '06.. pick up a 2010 CaymanS with PDK.

Driven1

iTrader: (2)

+1000

Even if it is " done right" when doing something on the more "extreme" side of customizing it's a crap shoot and things will always seem to pop up here and there.

themadhatterxxx

iTrader: (9)

so your getting 100,000 over 5 years...that averages to 20k a year..is that in addition to some sort of salary your getting? Are you getting taxed on that money?

bubblehead-g

Its an SRB, selective re-enlistment bonus, the navy uses it to entice people to stay in with rates that are undermanned. Most of the rates on subs have them, at least the good ones. I think everyone but cooks and yeoman have been getting bonus's last few years. Nukes get the biggest ones, but their job sucks so its the only way to keep them in. I get that on top of regular base pay for an e-6 with 8 years, and i get sea pay for being at a sea command and sub pay. Plus bah which is basic allowance for housing, and bas which is money for food when im not eating on the boat, like when were not underway basically. My base pay is taxed, bah and bas is not. My re enlistment bonus is taxed, so the yearly payments will work out to be less. Im pretty sure with my wife's income Im gonna get thrown into a higher bracket next year and get assraped, but I don't know for sure yet.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

OP, since you want F/I and don't want to blow all the $$$$ if something goes sideways, why not try a bit of a compromise. Go F/I on a stock block, it will cost thousands less and be much more reliable. With the right kit and some supporting mods your car will be faster than most of what is on the road, while being much more reliable tha a fully built, max hp setup.

Take the money you would have spent on the full build and invest it now in the down market. If you want to build fully in a year or two, some of the gain you should make on the investment could help to offset the additional build expense and money spent b doing things in two steps intead of all at once. If you are happy with what you have or decide you are bored with the car in a few years, you've spent much less $$$$ on it and can return it to stock much more easily. Just my opinion on an option.

BornSlippyZ

iTrader: (1)

Buy a house, if you do not have one already.

ZRated67

iTrader: (5)

+1

Now's the time to get the best rate, and the best overall price.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

theres no reason u cant do a mild boosted setup and be reliable..some of these guys on here get too crazy and go for big big power and are the ones with their cars down and all the problems...either go stock block and boost it with a TT kit and stay around 8-9 psi and do all the necessary precautions to keep it strong and prevent anything from happening since u have the "WAd"..cheap and easy and decent amount of power...or go built shortblock and bump that boost up a little more to around 500whp or so...in the end op is gonna do what he wants so doesnt really matter what anyone is gonna say...id sell the z and get a c6 zo6 or a GTR but thats me

bubblehead-g

I was only considering a built block for the piece of mind really. I wasn't going into this thinking I want to push the envelope. I really was thinking JWT 530 and a relatively mildly built engine like a stage 1 from IPP. I see a guy at the garage here on base with that setup on his Z and he has had a relatively trouble free 10k miles on it so far. He recommended going built block so I could run the higher boost levels, because he said if I was anything like him I would quickly tire of 7-8 lbs of boost.

From what I have read the stock motor is good up until about 400 hp. I don't drive super aggressively on a daily basis, I do like going to the drag strip in summer when the weather is good though. If I was to run a conservative tune with about 380-400 hp would it be better to stay with stock block? When looking over a theoretical parts list and install/tuning for engine/kit/clutch ect.. it was coming to about 20-25k. In my head thats what I have established as my limit, be it for FI or to just to trade in for another vehicle.

Its such a fine line I am on. I really really think it would be fun to do the FI on my ride, but with my job, income, ect.. I don't have the resources to fix things if it goes horribly wrong. Thanks for your suggestions.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

and spend 2x the money it would cost to get a VQ35 to the same level with any TT kit bolted up the VQ makes a fairly reliable 400whp on stock internals. Unless its a Nur motor the RB26 has a weak oil pump so I wouldn't put one in anything with out a rebuild and a nur spec oil pump this is the most uncost effective solution for a G/Z there is, this swap is strictly for people that want something "different".

Cass has a valid point get a JWT 700bb kit on your stock block and run around 400whp for the first year or two it will be fun then you may hunger for more. You may realize you have enough power if not you are in a good position to upgrade to a built motor and more boost. i do agree with others don't go nuts keep it on the tame side 500-550whp on a build G would be an insane amount of fun. I got tied up in going for bigger and bigger and it bit me in the *** if I would have targeted a 500-550whp build I would still be driving my car and saved a ton of money.

In your spot i would trade the G35 in for a G37 and do a GTM TT kit on the stock block. You get a newer niceer car and 500whp, I still regret not doing this myself.

Remember the Myan calander is coming to an end so no need to invest for a future that is not coming Since you didn't come on here asking "what should I do with money" I won't preech about investing. I also agree with the idea what is the point of working your bag off being gone from home if your not going to enjoy one hobby. just my opinion

FineWine

iTrader: (10)

Keep in mind he's military. If he's relocated -- good luck selling the house.

bubblehead-g

I will have to do some more research and talk to a few shops. I would be happy with 500whp, if I had enough confidence in the car to just be able to get in it and drive across the state if I had too. Again that's really my main concern, is that I know the car is reliable enough its not gonna strand me somewhere or completely explode. I dont have a problem paying more up front, or overbuilding it. Its worth the money just for the piece of mind. Will also look into the g37, I have seen the insane numbers GTM is making with them. Although that would be a hard sell with the wife, a new car and all the goodies? She is under the impression its one or the other.

ADMAN

iTrader: (9)

Used Lambo.

Highway Riding

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=Sylvan Lake V35;8093337] and spend 2x the money it would cost to get a VQ35 to the same level with any TT kit bolted up the VQ makes a fairly reliable 400whp on stock internals. Unless its a Nur motor the RB26 has a weak oil pump so I wouldn't put one in anything with out a rebuild and a nur spec oil pump this is the most uncost effective solution for a G/Z there is, this swap is strictly for people that want something "different".

The problem is sure everyone says 400 HP works on a VQ but i personally feel like i could break my car with some spirited driving in its' NA form now. Rev matching, staying in the upper RPM range for extended periods yada yada yada.
So when when pricing out a built block, TT kit, and EMS the price tag easily is what 18K without install-tune? Now i have recently seen a rb26dett long block go for 6K or so in "supposed" good condition key word being "supposed" then u need ems as always and in this case a modified 6sp rwd trans or rb25 trans. Point being and in the above case add a NISMO oil pump (1k) is that 20k might get the job done and might (sure keyword being might) be more reliable under 500HP! Then building a VQ only to pop it driving it like it was intended. Maybe some shops can chime in