my SC Setup
05-17-2010, 04:35 PM
#24
yeah, break loose the nut on the front of that pulley (don't remove it) then get under the car and tighten the tensioner on the passenger side (noted B in the attached diagram). the tensioner moves that pulley up & down to increase or decrease tension in the belt. it'll be clear what to do once you're under the car.
Last edited by - bigc -; 05-17-2010 at 04:39 PM.
05-17-2010, 08:54 PM
#26
yeah, break loose the nut on the front of that pulley (don't remove it) then get under the car and tighten the tensioner on the passenger side (noted B in the attached diagram). the tensioner moves that pulley up & down to increase or decrease tension in the belt. it'll be clear what to do once you're under the car.
let's hope for no slipage
05-18-2010, 07:51 AM
#28
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Yes this will be a frequent evolution adjusting belt tension, depending on your pulley setup and boost.
You may want to drill a hole in the belly pan below the belt tensioner adjusting screw to avoid removing pan everytime adjustment is needed. I did this at first but now have aluminum pan that just covers area under radiator.
You may want to drill a hole in the belly pan below the belt tensioner adjusting screw to avoid removing pan everytime adjustment is needed. I did this at first but now have aluminum pan that just covers area under radiator.
05-18-2010, 01:33 PM
#29
update...
tuner came in, tuned it at home for idle, and once we were set, we moved around for cruise tuning.. all went fine, running between 13 to 14.6 AFR in city cruising..
now......
we went on tuning @ WOT. that took couple of runs, the car pulls, but it just pulls either jerking all the way up to 6k rpm, or sometimes stalls @ 5k rpm and wont go any further.
we've seen boost goes as high as 4psi @ WOT.. we had lots of runs, and the tuner kept adjusting fuel and all till we were able to have an almost smooth revving till 6.5k rpm, and having the boost @ maximum 6psi till 4th gear, and once shifted to 5th gear, it goes back to 4psi and sticks there while rpm climbs like a turtle.
after all those runs, the car eventually went into a limp mode. AT display went off, and it hardly drives, along with CEL. and once the car is switched off, it won't turn back on (can't crank it up), looks like the battery is dead (even tho it's a new battery)..
anyways, the tuner found a work around having it to start back up by flashing back the stock map, then flash it back with the tuned map.
couple of more runs, and the same thing happend again with the same results.
we let it cool for 10mins, the engine bay was like an oven. pretty darn hot! someone could cook something over there.
he pulled the codes, and they were U1000 and U1001. (not totally sure what they refer to, because on this forum i've seen them refer to couple of meanings in different piggybacks/EMS).
after that, i lost the AC. it isn't cooling any more. the compressor doesn't click in when turned on (clutch doesn't click in).. no idea what happend there.
along with that, the seat-belt led went on, and it won't go off no matter what.
we went on sharing thoughts on what could've happend about the boost, but we couldn't come up with anything other than me suggesting it could be the belt (either slipping, or isn't tight enough), as much as i've read on this forum.
tuner suggests that since AFR giving out correct readings and we're seeing a boost @ 6psi, it shouldn't be the belt, but he wasn't too sure about that too. "just sharing thoughts".
on being it going into limp mode, i thought it's most probably caused by heat, but he suggests it's probably something to do with RTT (Real Time Tuning).
so, we took it to the dyno to have a go at it, to see what's the outcome.
my previous dyno (when it was bone stock) was @ 210whp.. we dyno'ed it now, and it's 225whp and lots of spikes all over range. AFR was fine (all @ 11.5).
we stopped there.. friends and visitors were there, and everyone started suggesting something.
- HFCs are blocking the flow
- wheels being 1" larger, wider *even tho they're lighter (Volks)*
- plugs are bust
- heat generated affecting the boost
- etc
only one thing on my mind, belt slipping and needs tightening. problem is, it's a dyno with a dyno runner/tuner, and not a mechanic. so even the basic tools weren't available. and it was already too late.
in conclusion, i got the following things that needs to be looked into/fixed:
1- why it's going into limp mode and throwing a CEL?
2- what went wrong with the AC (not turning on) and the seat-belt led being always on?
3- why i can't see more than 6psi boost (max) and why on 5th gear i can't past 4psi and revving takes ages to climb?
4- why it's generating excessive heat? (am i in hell already?)
the first thing i'm gonna do tomorrow is tighten the belt. but if i do so, i'll need a retune immediately, correct? i'm thinking it's gonna be a different story in terms AFR and timing.
chime in if you have any suggestion/comments on what to look for and if you faced something similar that could lead me to a resolution.
tuner came in, tuned it at home for idle, and once we were set, we moved around for cruise tuning.. all went fine, running between 13 to 14.6 AFR in city cruising..
now......
we went on tuning @ WOT. that took couple of runs, the car pulls, but it just pulls either jerking all the way up to 6k rpm, or sometimes stalls @ 5k rpm and wont go any further.
we've seen boost goes as high as 4psi @ WOT.. we had lots of runs, and the tuner kept adjusting fuel and all till we were able to have an almost smooth revving till 6.5k rpm, and having the boost @ maximum 6psi till 4th gear, and once shifted to 5th gear, it goes back to 4psi and sticks there while rpm climbs like a turtle.
after all those runs, the car eventually went into a limp mode. AT display went off, and it hardly drives, along with CEL. and once the car is switched off, it won't turn back on (can't crank it up), looks like the battery is dead (even tho it's a new battery)..
anyways, the tuner found a work around having it to start back up by flashing back the stock map, then flash it back with the tuned map.
couple of more runs, and the same thing happend again with the same results.
we let it cool for 10mins, the engine bay was like an oven. pretty darn hot! someone could cook something over there.
he pulled the codes, and they were U1000 and U1001. (not totally sure what they refer to, because on this forum i've seen them refer to couple of meanings in different piggybacks/EMS).
after that, i lost the AC. it isn't cooling any more. the compressor doesn't click in when turned on (clutch doesn't click in).. no idea what happend there.
along with that, the seat-belt led went on, and it won't go off no matter what.
we went on sharing thoughts on what could've happend about the boost, but we couldn't come up with anything other than me suggesting it could be the belt (either slipping, or isn't tight enough), as much as i've read on this forum.
tuner suggests that since AFR giving out correct readings and we're seeing a boost @ 6psi, it shouldn't be the belt, but he wasn't too sure about that too. "just sharing thoughts".
on being it going into limp mode, i thought it's most probably caused by heat, but he suggests it's probably something to do with RTT (Real Time Tuning).
so, we took it to the dyno to have a go at it, to see what's the outcome.
my previous dyno (when it was bone stock) was @ 210whp.. we dyno'ed it now, and it's 225whp and lots of spikes all over range. AFR was fine (all @ 11.5).
we stopped there.. friends and visitors were there, and everyone started suggesting something.
- HFCs are blocking the flow
- wheels being 1" larger, wider *even tho they're lighter (Volks)*
- plugs are bust
- heat generated affecting the boost
- etc
only one thing on my mind, belt slipping and needs tightening. problem is, it's a dyno with a dyno runner/tuner, and not a mechanic. so even the basic tools weren't available. and it was already too late.
in conclusion, i got the following things that needs to be looked into/fixed:
1- why it's going into limp mode and throwing a CEL?
2- what went wrong with the AC (not turning on) and the seat-belt led being always on?
3- why i can't see more than 6psi boost (max) and why on 5th gear i can't past 4psi and revving takes ages to climb?
4- why it's generating excessive heat? (am i in hell already?)
the first thing i'm gonna do tomorrow is tighten the belt. but if i do so, i'll need a retune immediately, correct? i'm thinking it's gonna be a different story in terms AFR and timing.
chime in if you have any suggestion/comments on what to look for and if you faced something similar that could lead me to a resolution.
05-18-2010, 02:22 PM
#30
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hmm, all the codes and engine issues is really not my cup of tea. Something is really going on electrically. Maybe something came unplugged or something was cut in the harness on accident.
a/c might not be working due to the increased heat which makes me wonder if hte a/f was really what he thinks it is. If your a/f was straight across hte board it shouldn't be jerky. What did he use for timing values? could have have it advanced too much and caused detonation? that would heat hte engine up big time.
check for boost leaks. That 2.87 should be up around 11psi so you're only getting half. Look around the s/c pulley for dust on the mounting plate. lots of dust from teh belt=belt slip. You'll have to tighten it a lot and a few times when you first start running the belt because it stretches a bit from being new.
if cats were blocked the af would be off, unless it's on the bank that you aren't monitoring. Boost will usually be higher with a restriction in exhaust flow too so that doesn't fit the picture.
limp mode: i have no clue, electrical demons somewhere.
a/c might not be working due to the increased heat which makes me wonder if hte a/f was really what he thinks it is. If your a/f was straight across hte board it shouldn't be jerky. What did he use for timing values? could have have it advanced too much and caused detonation? that would heat hte engine up big time.
check for boost leaks. That 2.87 should be up around 11psi so you're only getting half. Look around the s/c pulley for dust on the mounting plate. lots of dust from teh belt=belt slip. You'll have to tighten it a lot and a few times when you first start running the belt because it stretches a bit from being new.
if cats were blocked the af would be off, unless it's on the bank that you aren't monitoring. Boost will usually be higher with a restriction in exhaust flow too so that doesn't fit the picture.
limp mode: i have no clue, electrical demons somewhere.
05-18-2010, 02:50 PM
#31
reply/thoughts in bold
thanks for chiming in, binder..
appreciate your response.
hmm, all the codes and engine issues is really not my cup of tea. Something is really going on electrically. Maybe something came unplugged or something was cut in the harness on accident.
it's possible. i thought it might be melted harness here or there. not sure tho, because it was running fine when we doing city cruising till we went on tuning @ wot.
a/c might not be working due to the increased heat which makes me wonder if hte a/f was really what he thinks it is. If your a/f was straight across hte board it shouldn't be jerky. What did he use for timing values? could have have it advanced too much and caused detonation? that would heat hte engine up big time.
makes sense. but again, it was working all good at first, only after tuning @ WOT, it stopped working. i'm not sure how electricity could or could not affect the compressor. i'll try to run it first thing when start it up tomorrow.
on the dyno, it was at the same range @ 11.5 almost. i'll try to pull out the map and post the details here.
he did advance it too much (trying to find out what's happening) and started decreasing from there. knock was there when he did that, but then immediately went back to the previous values.
check for boost leaks. That 2.87 should be up around 11psi so you're only getting half. Look around the s/c pulley for dust on the mounting plate. lots of dust from teh belt=belt slip. You'll have to tighten it a lot and a few times when you first start running the belt because it stretches a bit from being new.
ok.. now i need to search for boost leak DIY, we should start from there if it isn't a belt slip.
and btw, i'm getting 6psi max @ at almost rev limiter 6.5k rpm on 3rd gear!.. 1st, 2nd goes max to 4psi.
i haven't notice any dust, but i can twist the belt more than 90 degrees with 3 fingers.
i'm sure i'll need a shorter belt for the 2.87 pulley.. is it the 79"? my setup is the revised one (posted couple of posts above).
i'll go with tightening the belt for now, if it's at its max, then a new belt is a must.
if cats were blocked the af would be off, unless it's on the bank that you aren't monitoring. Boost will usually be higher with a restriction in exhaust flow too so that doesn't fit the picture.
makes sense.. because i'm assuming the A/F gauge is hooked up on the HFC bung for reading. and yes, boost would be higher due to restriction..
limp mode: i have no clue, electrical demons somewhere.
i think limp mode is because of no much electricity being produced to the car.. "just a thought".. so most probably it's to do with the power/start harness.
it's possible. i thought it might be melted harness here or there. not sure tho, because it was running fine when we doing city cruising till we went on tuning @ wot.
a/c might not be working due to the increased heat which makes me wonder if hte a/f was really what he thinks it is. If your a/f was straight across hte board it shouldn't be jerky. What did he use for timing values? could have have it advanced too much and caused detonation? that would heat hte engine up big time.
makes sense. but again, it was working all good at first, only after tuning @ WOT, it stopped working. i'm not sure how electricity could or could not affect the compressor. i'll try to run it first thing when start it up tomorrow.
on the dyno, it was at the same range @ 11.5 almost. i'll try to pull out the map and post the details here.
he did advance it too much (trying to find out what's happening) and started decreasing from there. knock was there when he did that, but then immediately went back to the previous values.
check for boost leaks. That 2.87 should be up around 11psi so you're only getting half. Look around the s/c pulley for dust on the mounting plate. lots of dust from teh belt=belt slip. You'll have to tighten it a lot and a few times when you first start running the belt because it stretches a bit from being new.
ok.. now i need to search for boost leak DIY, we should start from there if it isn't a belt slip.
and btw, i'm getting 6psi max @ at almost rev limiter 6.5k rpm on 3rd gear!.. 1st, 2nd goes max to 4psi.
i haven't notice any dust, but i can twist the belt more than 90 degrees with 3 fingers.
i'm sure i'll need a shorter belt for the 2.87 pulley.. is it the 79"? my setup is the revised one (posted couple of posts above).
i'll go with tightening the belt for now, if it's at its max, then a new belt is a must.
if cats were blocked the af would be off, unless it's on the bank that you aren't monitoring. Boost will usually be higher with a restriction in exhaust flow too so that doesn't fit the picture.
makes sense.. because i'm assuming the A/F gauge is hooked up on the HFC bung for reading. and yes, boost would be higher due to restriction..
limp mode: i have no clue, electrical demons somewhere.
i think limp mode is because of no much electricity being produced to the car.. "just a thought".. so most probably it's to do with the power/start harness.
appreciate your response.
Last edited by maXmood; 05-18-2010 at 02:54 PM.
05-18-2010, 04:10 PM
#32
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i'll keep thinking.
i doubt its belt slip that bad though. Could be but usually there is tons of dust. plus the 90 degree rule on tension seems to be ok for you.
maybe the heat killed the a/c and the alt at the same time? the alt has to be an issue if the battery went dead when the car was running. Maybe a wire loose on it or a blown fuse? check the a/c fuses as well.
i doubt its belt slip that bad though. Could be but usually there is tons of dust. plus the 90 degree rule on tension seems to be ok for you.
maybe the heat killed the a/c and the alt at the same time? the alt has to be an issue if the battery went dead when the car was running. Maybe a wire loose on it or a blown fuse? check the a/c fuses as well.
05-18-2010, 04:27 PM
#33
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the u1000 and u1001 are can communication codes, which means all the control units that communicate via can (ecm, ipdm/er, abs, etc) arent communicating properly.
the ac comp not working could be an issue involving the can problem as the ipdm/er controls the ac comp operation.
the ac comp not working could be an issue involving the can problem as the ipdm/er controls the ac comp operation.
05-19-2010, 12:16 AM
#34
i'll keep thinking.
i doubt its belt slip that bad though. Could be but usually there is tons of dust. plus the 90 degree rule on tension seems to be ok for you.
maybe the heat killed the a/c and the alt at the same time? the alt has to be an issue if the battery went dead when the car was running. Maybe a wire loose on it or a blown fuse? check the a/c fuses as well.
i doubt its belt slip that bad though. Could be but usually there is tons of dust. plus the 90 degree rule on tension seems to be ok for you.
maybe the heat killed the a/c and the alt at the same time? the alt has to be an issue if the battery went dead when the car was running. Maybe a wire loose on it or a blown fuse? check the a/c fuses as well.
probably i didn't see belt dust is because of the hot air (just like a big air blower) blown of the engine bay.. you could probably dry a girl's hair after taking a shower..
i'm gonna tighten the belt, but if there isn't any more tension, i'll need to order a new shorter belt that's for sure. down time to that is not less than 1 week.
i'll check the fuses too.
thanks for the input.
05-19-2010, 12:18 AM
#35
the u1000 and u1001 are can communication codes, which means all the control units that communicate via can (ecm, ipdm/er, abs, etc) arent communicating properly.
the ac comp not working could be an issue involving the can problem as the ipdm/er controls the ac comp operation.
the ac comp not working could be an issue involving the can problem as the ipdm/er controls the ac comp operation.
if that's the issue, then i would need a grounding kit? or should i just consider stock harness done all over.
thanks for the input.
05-19-2010, 02:37 AM
#36
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I've had a few instances where the Vortech wasn't boosting all the way at rev limit over the past 5 years.
The problems where linked to a loose coupling and fixed this problem by replacing all the rubber couplers with silicone and T Bolt clamps. Other issue has been with the MAF sensor being dirty. Try cleaning with special cleaner available at most auto parts store.
Your AC not working is usually an indication of a limp mode.
The problems where linked to a loose coupling and fixed this problem by replacing all the rubber couplers with silicone and T Bolt clamps. Other issue has been with the MAF sensor being dirty. Try cleaning with special cleaner available at most auto parts store.
Your AC not working is usually an indication of a limp mode.
05-19-2010, 03:35 AM
#37
I've had a few instances where the Vortech wasn't boosting all the way at rev limit over the past 5 years.
The problems where linked to a loose coupling and fixed this problem by replacing all the rubber couplers with silicone and T Bolt clamps. Other issue has been with the MAF sensor being dirty. Try cleaning with special cleaner available at most auto parts store.
Your AC not working is usually an indication of a limp mode.
The problems where linked to a loose coupling and fixed this problem by replacing all the rubber couplers with silicone and T Bolt clamps. Other issue has been with the MAF sensor being dirty. Try cleaning with special cleaner available at most auto parts store.
Your AC not working is usually an indication of a limp mode.
05-19-2010, 05:26 AM
#38
Hey Maxmood, you have a 5AT...your prob gonna have to mess with the calculated load vaules so that the trans gives enough line pressure to the clutches....i bet that is alot of you problem. I know GT-ER on here has some values he used on his Vortech 5AT and they seem to work well...