Zivman

iTrader: (19)

it seems the carbing reservoir tank is the one that is being used on the Z. it is the same size as the howe one I linked, just verticle.

here is a layout of how the system should be plumbed



I like the vertical tank due to it having less potential to suck dry under cornering vs a horizontal tank. the carbin unit also has a good mount with it, and can be had in hose or fitting style.... but the cheapest I have found it is 152 bucks! fairly expensive

b18ccivics

iTrader: (11)

where did you find one for $152, I need another one for my honda. And the reason I went with carbing is the an fittings.

the above pic is the best one I have seen.

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

There's this shop that works on my Z had a customer who blew his VQDE head gasket weeks after he installed his TT kit. I asked them what was the reason they said the engine just simply overheated. I asked them why and they said turbo was too hot for the VQ to handle. LOL.

My best guess would be because of this bubble issue.

OK i've been doing some searching online... this is the same kit that's installed on those pics right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Greddy-Radia...93923a&vxp=mtr

This one has illustration on the box, similar to that one above
http://www.ebay.com/itm/D1-SPEC-Radi...7b1a72&vxp=mtr

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

optionsauto.com, but not sure if they are reputable.

I pulled the trigger on mine. I bought from another vendor that I have bought from previously

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

the one you listed is the one it looks like SGP used in their cars

350z006

iTrader: (79)

Interesting stuff...would this new setup be advantageous for general cooling purposes without hot spots?

I ask because I have a Vortech setup and would like to improve cooling performance, but the blower is oil fed and does not get hot spots like you turbo guys do...

djtimodj

Glad you looking into this man, my set up has saved me a **** load of problems!

When the car was first built each time a shut is down hot a small amount puked from the aps expansion bottle and after a few days this was empty. I think this cause air to be draw back into the coolant system and caused the T stat to not open causing a bad over heat.

After this system went in I can shut the car down hot, pop the bonnet and listen to the coolant boiling and guggling out the turbos and the swirl system allows this air to pass via the top tank and does not push coolant out anymore!

Go for it mate.

b18ccivics

iTrader: (11)

options has been around for years, I have bought stuff from them in the past never any problems. would not hesitate to buy from them again.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

it is worth looking into... stock setups can have cavitation and/or localized hotspots on track days. any added stress can increase the chances.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

here's the link to options auto... it is 157, not 152 like I previously posted

I have everything ordered. this is going to be a little more expensive than I originally planned, but I bought some upgraded radiator/coolant hoses.

I am going to buy the hose locally, unless somebody knows of a good place on line. jegs and summit are like 6/ft+ for the hose.

I am looking for 15' of 1/4" and 8' of 3/8"

ocdz

iTrader: (11)

I know this may seem like a troll post but I'm trying to decipher what you meant here. You're saying it is there to increase flow to open the thermostat, then immediately after that you say without it the thermostat won't get hot? Then say without it it gets hot enough to keep water circulating?

I'm not saying your system is wrong, I'm just very confused by this explanation.

On topic: Could the expansion tank be placed in the line of the stock bleeder location but placed higher than the radiator filler neck?

Just trying to wrap my head around this.

BlinkerFluid

iTrader: (7)

I had the same issue, same conditions and APS kit. The overflow tank would fill and overflow after the engine was shut down. The problem was after the car cooled it would empty the overflow tank and suck air into the system.

I have heard the coolant boiling after shutdown, it seemed like it was in the head caused by heat moving from the cast manifolds back into the aluminum head, or the coolant pipe that runs above the passenger side manifold, I suppose it could be the passenger side turbo also. It has always sounded localized to that area to me.

I made a larger overflow tank from some 4" SS pipe I had left over from making the exhaust for my other car, never had another issue. I just need to polish it to match the IC piping.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

So the only difference between just a larger overflow reservoir and the high pressure expansion tank is that the expansion tank continues to bleed air with the thermostat off and would tend to evacuate the air before it can accumulate and cause problems at the thermostat? Sounds like a better solution.

Evans NPG+ does work just fine though (probably a wash on cost, but certainly less complex, especially if you're working with a new motor). I think it serves more than just a band-aid though as it precludes localized hot spots around the cylinder heads, something you still contend with even if you can quickly evacuate the air.

b18ccivics

iTrader: (11)

the water in an engine has to have flow, the stock crossover pipe allows that, other things do to, heater core, turbo coolant lines, Small factory hole in the t-stat at the 12o'clock position,etc. If there was no flow the water temp at the back side of the thermostat would be cold not allowing it to open up. And it would over heat in some areas and be cold in other.

I stated "allow coolant to pass around the thermostat" I guess i should have said in the area of.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

an expansion tank is a integrated part of the pressurized system.

the real difference, is just that..
overflow is more or less a catch can for coolant that has been pushed outside of the pressurized system

expansion tank is a reservoir tank within the pressurized system

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I've received all of the fittings, just waiting on the filler cap and the actual tank.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

got my tank today. little smaller in the hand than I was expecting.

won't have time till this weekend to work on it.



also, got my winter wheels refinished and mounted up today for my evo....

ZEDCAR TT

iTrader: (1)

Any updates? How did it work out?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I did get it installed roughly. I had a very difficult time finding room. I still don't have it secured, just plumbed and sitting in the engine bay. I have only had time to bleed the system before the weather turned and I put the car in storage.

I didn't want to post pics of the install until I had a bracket made up and had it mounted properly.

it might be a while since we have a foot of snow on the ground

XKR

iTrader: (1)

To what Raj has posted.....I have always used the NPG+, and it has not let me down yet even in traffic with over 100 degrees with AC on. The only things overheating is me fighting with the OS Giken

As to what Blinkerfluid posted.... I too went that direction! I took a Greddy oil catch can and turned it into an overflow. The plastic tube in front shows me fluid level when hot and cold.

I know the G cools easier than the Z because of more openings.... But I am sure the NPG+ will assist you with correcting your heating issue.

Good Luck