Coolant expansion tank for DE APS twin turbo
10-23-2014, 06:36 AM
#81
There is a drain plug on the left side. Sounds like that's what you used for your turbos. Maybe thata the way to go. Basically the same as your setup, but I won't need to find a new turbo feed. Cuz my greddy turbos are from the dark ages.
10-23-2014, 08:43 AM
#82
yes, that is where the feed to the turbos come from. I wouldn't advise running that into the tank. you want the hottest coolant being fed into the tank which is somewhere off the head. probably on the RHS of the motor. Look for one of the feeds going back into the radiator
10-23-2014, 03:41 PM
#83
yes, that is where the feed to the turbos come from. I wouldn't advise running that into the tank. you want the hottest coolant being fed into the tank which is somewhere off the head. probably on the RHS of the motor. Look for one of the feeds going back into the radiator
Edit* I also have the pathfinder mod. It left me with an unused port on the gold hard pipe on the rhs. Seems like A good place. Opinions?
Last edited by hulkout; 10-23-2014 at 05:30 PM.
11-21-2014, 10:32 AM
#84
Researching Lotus and came across BOE shop.
They make a Tank similar to what you OP was talking about. In addition to swirling they discuss increasing pressure.....I don't know $hit but....
http://www.boefabrication.com/index....oe-header-tank
"Whether you race, do track days, autocross, or just enjoy your Lotus on the street, removing heat from the engine is a critical function to reduce engine wear and maintain power.
It’s no secret that aeration of the coolant hinders its ability to absorb and transfer heat. The coolant becomes aerated from localized boiling around the cylinder walls (creating a layer of steam around the cylinder walls) in addition to turbulence from the water pump and coolant passages.
NASCAR, Formula 1, and other race series have developed great strategies involving pressure and swirling to help combat these issues, which have long since trickled down to mere mortals.
The first is with pressure. Simply put, the more pressure, the better. Pressure not only increases the boiling point of the coolant, but it also reduces the size of the air bubbles/pockets in the system. Higher boiling temperatures equate to less fluid boiling and therefore less air in the system. Reducing the air bubble size from greater pressure reduces the size of the steam layer around the cylinder walls, which helps extract more heat from the engine itself!
The second is the simple concept of swirling the entire cooling mass. Swirling forces the heavy coolant to outer region of the tank forcing the lightweight air to separate from the coolant and collect toward the center of the tank.
The combination of swirling the coolant and adding more pressure to the system will help to ensure you’re getting the most heat out the engine and transferred to the radiator where it can be dissipated.
Our pressurized header swirl tank is expertly welded and complete with a site tube, Lotus specific bracket, hoses, and hardware.
An optional regulated air inflator tool available separately. This air filler can be dialed into your desired pressure under 20PSI to pre-pressurize your tank for greater operating pressures. It is NOT required, but makes quick work of filling your tank to a desired pressure.
The tanks are shipped with 30PSI caps. We typically run 40PSI in race cars. Please note that running pressures in excess of 30PSI is not recommended unless you have replaced your OE radiator and hoses."
It's expensive as hell at $450....and I don't post pictures but click on the link and see if this inspires anyone.
They make a Tank similar to what you OP was talking about. In addition to swirling they discuss increasing pressure.....I don't know $hit but....
http://www.boefabrication.com/index....oe-header-tank
"Whether you race, do track days, autocross, or just enjoy your Lotus on the street, removing heat from the engine is a critical function to reduce engine wear and maintain power.
It’s no secret that aeration of the coolant hinders its ability to absorb and transfer heat. The coolant becomes aerated from localized boiling around the cylinder walls (creating a layer of steam around the cylinder walls) in addition to turbulence from the water pump and coolant passages.
NASCAR, Formula 1, and other race series have developed great strategies involving pressure and swirling to help combat these issues, which have long since trickled down to mere mortals.
The first is with pressure. Simply put, the more pressure, the better. Pressure not only increases the boiling point of the coolant, but it also reduces the size of the air bubbles/pockets in the system. Higher boiling temperatures equate to less fluid boiling and therefore less air in the system. Reducing the air bubble size from greater pressure reduces the size of the steam layer around the cylinder walls, which helps extract more heat from the engine itself!
The second is the simple concept of swirling the entire cooling mass. Swirling forces the heavy coolant to outer region of the tank forcing the lightweight air to separate from the coolant and collect toward the center of the tank.
The combination of swirling the coolant and adding more pressure to the system will help to ensure you’re getting the most heat out the engine and transferred to the radiator where it can be dissipated.
Our pressurized header swirl tank is expertly welded and complete with a site tube, Lotus specific bracket, hoses, and hardware.
An optional regulated air inflator tool available separately. This air filler can be dialed into your desired pressure under 20PSI to pre-pressurize your tank for greater operating pressures. It is NOT required, but makes quick work of filling your tank to a desired pressure.
The tanks are shipped with 30PSI caps. We typically run 40PSI in race cars. Please note that running pressures in excess of 30PSI is not recommended unless you have replaced your OE radiator and hoses."
It's expensive as hell at $450....and I don't post pictures but click on the link and see if this inspires anyone.
Last edited by eZg; 11-21-2014 at 10:35 AM.
01-26-2015, 03:17 AM
#86
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Hi All
Just finished install of my hand made can on my APSTT Zee
Fixed the coolant issues and its way easier to swap the coolant now.
Let me know what you think
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Just finished install of my hand made can on my APSTT Zee
Fixed the coolant issues and its way easier to swap the coolant now.
Let me know what you think
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
If anyone has done anything different then shoot. I know this thread is old but still good right? 
01-31-2015, 11:33 AM
#89
I'm trying to figure this out as well. There seem to be 6 lines.
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
01-31-2015, 11:39 AM
#90
I'm trying to figure this out as well. There seem to be 6 lines.
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
02-02-2015, 06:20 AM
#91
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I'm trying to figure this out as well. There seem to be 6 lines.
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
The largest pair is the line to the heater core.
Top line by the cap is the overflow.
One of the lines should be the feed for the turbo.
That leaves the line under the overflow, and the one under the turbo feed line. What are they for?
12-06-2016, 07:35 AM
#93
This is an awesome post props on the r and d man! I'm having a similar issue and have been looking into this as well on my Greddy TT DE. My turbos are oil cooled so i wont have to worry about the turbos boiling coolant but I'm still having issues with the car pushing coolant after pulls. This seems like the perfect fix! I will have to look into building a custom tank with a decent capacity. Have you had your car at the track since you did this install? Any problems come up since then to speak of?
03-17-2019, 02:16 PM
#94
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I know this is a very very old thread, but given how often it appears in google search I thought I’d join to add to this.
I have a 350Z DE with APS TT setup, including the carbing expansion tank almost exactly as covered previously,
It is located up by the firewall, in front of the driver and to the right of the brake fluid reservoir. (RHD car, UK)
Ive not experienced any coolant being pushed but clearly the previous owner(s) did - until the carbing expansion was fitted anyway.
Im also toying with the idea of a Mishimoto cooling fan setup - thinner and apparently more efficient than stock units, 1 concern here though is that they are apparently very noisy, and only 1 speed.
ive tried to remove the OEM cooling fan shroud but there just isn’t enough room to pull it up and out - the intercooler pipes get in the way
Im guessing it’ll need to come out from the bottom, but that means draining the cooling system and removing the bottom rad hose,
Question for anyone with the APS setup though - once the carbing expanion tank is installed, what is the correct method for bleeding p, refilling or topping up the coolant? Presumably it’s via the carbing tank as it’s the highest point? So run the engine up to temp, and leave the cap on the carbing tank off, filling up as the level drops?
cheers!
I have a 350Z DE with APS TT setup, including the carbing expansion tank almost exactly as covered previously,
It is located up by the firewall, in front of the driver and to the right of the brake fluid reservoir. (RHD car, UK)
Ive not experienced any coolant being pushed but clearly the previous owner(s) did - until the carbing expansion was fitted anyway.
Im also toying with the idea of a Mishimoto cooling fan setup - thinner and apparently more efficient than stock units, 1 concern here though is that they are apparently very noisy, and only 1 speed.
ive tried to remove the OEM cooling fan shroud but there just isn’t enough room to pull it up and out - the intercooler pipes get in the way
Im guessing it’ll need to come out from the bottom, but that means draining the cooling system and removing the bottom rad hose,
Question for anyone with the APS setup though - once the carbing expanion tank is installed, what is the correct method for bleeding p, refilling or topping up the coolant? Presumably it’s via the carbing tank as it’s the highest point? So run the engine up to temp, and leave the cap on the carbing tank off, filling up as the level drops?
cheers!
09-10-2019, 07:16 PM
#95
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Hi, good night, I'm from Dominican Republic, I think there is only one single Nissan 350z turbo in my country, I'm having serious problems with the temperature and I don't know who can help me
