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Anyone know how to bench test one to see if it's good/bad?
Having a major issue with my car where it hesitates/jerks and runs too rich out of nowhere. After reviewing data logs my tuning guy determined the MAF readings are quite a bit lower than when the car was running good. I have pulled the Vortech off and taken it apart and it appears to be perfectly fine. MAF had already been cleaned recently. Pipe couplings have been checked. So we suspect the MAF is the issue but need a way to verify it. I tried calling UpRev directly but they don't open for a couple hours.
Hopefully this helps you locate what pin-outs you need to read for cont.
As for voltage, the logs should already list those already.
We had the same issue with my car. Ended up that a second hand Uprev was damaged and someone tried to sell me one. (Glad I'm not a sucker and use paypal goods and services)
At first it was low voltage readings, we couldn't even get above 3v. I swear those things break in just a few years because I seen several other people with the same issue. (My second new one broke in 2 years, explains their 1 year warranty)
Hell, the price of a Uprev MAF and Uprev license with ARC is about the same price as buying a Link Standalone. (Which is why I ditched my old setup, it's crap for E85.)
Hopefully this helps you locate what pin-outs you need to read for cont.
As for voltage, the logs should already list those already.
We had the same issue with my car. Ended up that a second hand Uprev was damaged and someone tried to sell me one. (Glad I'm not a sucker and use paypal goods and services)
At first it was low voltage readings, we couldn't even get above 3v. I swear those things break in just a few years because I seen several other people with the same issue. (My second new one broke in 2 years, explains their 1 year warranty)
Hell, the price of a Uprev MAF and Uprev license with ARC is about the same price as buying a Link Standalone. (Which is why I ditched my old setup, it's crap for E85.)
Yeah I've got the logs to see voltage. I was wondering if maybe there's a resistance spec to check it? The FSM lists voltages but I don't think those directly relate anymore. I've attached the two logs if you or anyone else cares to take a look. The log from 7/25 is of the car running like ****. Also of note is the knock sensor reads zero in the log of the car running bad. It's also running 5-8* less timing depending where you look in the rpm range.
I actually have the $ on hand and could make the switch to the Link ecu... I had this money set aside for a set of wheels I really wanted though... ****** rip
Yeah I've got the logs to see voltage. I was wondering if maybe there's a resistance spec to check it? The FSM lists voltages but I don't think those directly relate anymore. I've attached the two logs if you or anyone else cares to take a look. The log from 7/25 is of the car running like ****. Also of note is the knock sensor reads zero in the log of the car running bad. It's also running 5-8* less timing depending where you look in the rpm range.
I actually have the $ on hand and could make the switch to the Link ecu... I had this money set aside for a set of wheels I really wanted though... ****** rip
Is there a general RPM range that it runs terribly or is it overall?
Is there a general RPM range that it runs terribly or is it overall?
Around 4k it starts hesitating and jerking... but even before that going WOT at 3k it's struggling and feels like it's being held back. AFR gauge pegs to 10 and it's making boost.
Here's a video of what it's doing (which was done at a different time than the log btw)
This is a video of just spinning the vortech on the bench and trying to wiggle for shaft play. I also disassembled it and there's nothing wrong inside that I can see...
Don't answer this lol. First I saw a sudden jump in knocks at 3500rpm and really started to run rich with the car retarding timing randomly.
Here's the info I got from my tuner and it sounds reasonable.
Uh is that in response to my problem or a problem you had? I'm not completely understanding what's going on or being explained?
If mine... I think you're referring to the data log done on 6/21 noted with a new b1s1 o2 sensor? I see that stuff at 3500ish... I don't know what to make of that.
In the datalog of the car running really bad on 7/25, there is zero knock value for the entire log... I don't know what that's about either.
And yes, it does the same thing in 4th gear.
Also, I didn't tune my car and my tune is password protected.
Uh is that in response to my problem or a problem you had? I'm not completely understanding what's going on or being explained?
If mine... I think you're referring to the data log done on 6/21 noted with a new b1s1 o2 sensor? I see that stuff at 3500ish... I don't know what to make of that.
In the datalog of the car running really bad on 7/25, there is zero knock value for the entire log... I don't know what that's about either.
And yes, it does the same thing in 4th gear.
Also, I didn't tune my car and my tune is password protected.
Ahh ok. The other log file I couldn’t convert to a spreadsheet so I couldn’t really look at it.
Ahh ok. The other log file I couldn’t convert to a spreadsheet so I couldn’t really look at it.
Here it is as an xlsx file. This is of the car running very poor.
I talked to my tuner, we're going to do some logs and test some stuff. He just sent me a file this morning with the knock sensitivity way up and with safe ignition timing.
Does your fuel pressure spike or do you have any way of monitoring? When I last monitored it, no spikes. I can monitor it with a gopro and review the video.
Are you still using the factory returnless system? No. I have a CJM fuel system with return.
What injectors/fuel pump are you using? ID1050x and Walbro 525lph
A large part of me wants to say the MAF is faulty since you said you had no issues beforehand.
Few answers in red above.
Yeah, basically the big picture is we tuned the car and then the **** kinda hit the fan when we were done. Ever since, I've been run in circles trying to figure out an intermittent lean issue. Which surfaces after the car has been driven over an hour. Seems to be heat induced after the engine is good and heat soaked. I believe it was a bad coil, but they all ohm out fine when I'm at home and able to test them. I've had a failed coil on this engine before and it would only crap out once the car was heat soaked and I could hear the sound difference in the exhaust.
Codes I've seen during all of this crap:
p0300 mis-fire
p2a00 b1s1 o2 sensor circuit range/performance
The rest of my info is a built Revup with V2 T-Trim, low comp engine, I've put brand new plugs and coils on the car in the last week. New Vortech belt, belt dressing and made damn sure I'm not dealing with belt slip. B1S1 O2 was replaced a couple weeks ago.
This is what my tuner said after the tune test this morning and just to be clear, we aren't trying to tune around the problem... just use the tune to hopefully diagnose it.
'It seems like the knock sensor is reading. I increased the stock knock sensitivity by 40% just to get it to read value. At that point, it is most likely picking up road or exhaust sound. That would be considered ghost knock, not actual engine detonation. Your rom is one that doesn’t read a lot of knock, at a value of 256 it starts to decrease the ignition timing. While other roms might not retarding timing until 5k knock value. The jerking is from it running super rich. We will start removing fuel from the wot part of the table.'
Yeah, basically the big picture is we tuned the car and then the **** kinda hit the fan when we were done. Ever since, I've been run in circles trying to figure out an intermittent lean issue. Which surfaces after the car has been driven over an hour. Seems to be heat induced after the engine is good and heat soaked. I believe it was a bad coil, but they all ohm out fine when I'm at home and able to test them. I've had a failed coil on this engine before and it would only crap out once the car was heat soaked and I could hear the sound difference in the exhaust.
Codes I've seen during all of this crap:
p0300 mis-fire
p2a00 b1s1 o2 sensor circuit range/performance
The rest of my info is a built Revup with V2 T-Trim, low comp engine, I've put brand new plugs and coils on the car in the last week. New Vortech belt, belt dressing and made damn sure I'm not dealing with belt slip. B1S1 O2 was replaced a couple weeks ago.
This is what my tuner said after the tune test this morning and just to be clear, we aren't trying to tune around the problem... just use the tune to hopefully diagnose it.
'It seems like the knock sensor is reading. I increased the stock knock sensitivity by 40% just to get it to read value. At that point, it is most likely picking up road or exhaust sound. That would be considered ghost knock, not actual engine detonation. Your rom is one that doesn’t read a lot of knock, at a value of 256 it starts to decrease the ignition timing. While other roms might not retarding timing until 5k knock value. The jerking is from it running super rich. We will start removing fuel from the wot part of the table.'
Hmm, then I'm afraid I don't have any more suggestions. Did Uprev ever get back to you?
07-29-2020, 07:23 AM
How to test UpRev MAF GT?
