BUDGET Turbo Project- Started
01-29-2013, 10:29 AM
#61
I ran a RFL replica bov on my Kia Sephia. Without a line reading manifold pressure it would open up depending how many washers I added inside of it. Running without any washer would open up the bov at around 3psi without a line. Adding two more would open it up around 5psi (comes with 6 washers/spacers) I just need to get it to open by itself over 7psi since I'm going to be running a 5psi wastegate spring. It will act as an overboost protection by bleeding the air to the atmosphere even when the throttle is open if the pressure gets too high. Pair that with the utec overboost protecions and a driver mod to look at the boost gauge often and I should be fine
01-29-2013, 10:30 AM
#62
ive cheaped out on some parts, its just a matter of what you can and cannot do, example exhuast/headers(i even run knock off headers) seats(there are actually fia approved cheap seats f1spec sells a 12 lb carbon fiber one for the price of a sparco evo) quick release hubs(nrg works great), fuel cells, rods(look at eagle, just dont cheap out on the bolts), heck even precision injectors work fine and are way cheaper then ID. however there are some things you dont cheap out on a turbo being one of them, why? because they spin at ridiculous rpms, its like buying micrometers from a ebay vendor that dosnt speak english..... in that instance the iso certification is there for a reason and worth the extra cash same is the case for turbos.
i have seen very very few people who last any amount of time on ebay turbos and frankly those who do drive like grandma's, im not saying people should drive like alberto lol but dont try and claim that they work because you have 10k miles but the turbo only actually saw 3 or 4 miles of actual boost in that time frame. i spend alot of cash on my build think im about 27k atm but i could have knocked that down by a minimum of 10k mayby even more if i wasnt looking for the power level i am whenever i put the intake back on. the comment of pay to play exists for a reason, its like starting a budget build for a f1 car or a top fuel dragster you have to simply settle on what you can afford.
EVERYONE who thinks that pay to play dosnt apply to them ends up burnt and spending extra cash because they dint do it right the first time because they end up from square 0 since they are now minus everything they bought plus minus an engine and no these engines arnt cheap $400 even is retarded and ive seen some going as high as 1k. i can buy a small block chevy for $150 complete longblock with accessorys, that is cheap and is why people looking to cheap out go with a platform with one of those in it(example third gen camaros, if you want cheap thrills you can build one of those to the 10's for 5-10k including the cost of the car.)
heck the op dosnt even have to go with a mp turbo a holset is cheap as **** and what most people actually use for successful budget builds, you can get a holset hx35 for $300 bucks on ebay although i wouldnt trust the cxracing ones since most of there crap is made in china its prob a knock off but theres more then enough used ones that even with 100k miles will still be years ahead of that china piece in terms of reliability
basically from what im seeing of the op though is he simply is taking the opinion of "screw you guys and your advice and the thousands of others on other platforms who have done this on other platforms and cryed later im still going to do it." bad attitude imo and frankly im betting after its installed he dynos it once and it sees boost one or two more times before he sells the car and is just another of those 3 or 4 miles of actual boost people trying to claim the kits actually work.
i have seen very very few people who last any amount of time on ebay turbos and frankly those who do drive like grandma's, im not saying people should drive like alberto lol but dont try and claim that they work because you have 10k miles but the turbo only actually saw 3 or 4 miles of actual boost in that time frame. i spend alot of cash on my build think im about 27k atm but i could have knocked that down by a minimum of 10k mayby even more if i wasnt looking for the power level i am whenever i put the intake back on. the comment of pay to play exists for a reason, its like starting a budget build for a f1 car or a top fuel dragster you have to simply settle on what you can afford.
EVERYONE who thinks that pay to play dosnt apply to them ends up burnt and spending extra cash because they dint do it right the first time because they end up from square 0 since they are now minus everything they bought plus minus an engine and no these engines arnt cheap $400 even is retarded and ive seen some going as high as 1k. i can buy a small block chevy for $150 complete longblock with accessorys, that is cheap and is why people looking to cheap out go with a platform with one of those in it(example third gen camaros, if you want cheap thrills you can build one of those to the 10's for 5-10k including the cost of the car.)
heck the op dosnt even have to go with a mp turbo a holset is cheap as **** and what most people actually use for successful budget builds, you can get a holset hx35 for $300 bucks on ebay although i wouldnt trust the cxracing ones since most of there crap is made in china its prob a knock off but theres more then enough used ones that even with 100k miles will still be years ahead of that china piece in terms of reliability
basically from what im seeing of the op though is he simply is taking the opinion of "screw you guys and your advice and the thousands of others on other platforms who have done this on other platforms and cryed later im still going to do it." bad attitude imo and frankly im betting after its installed he dynos it once and it sees boost one or two more times before he sells the car and is just another of those 3 or 4 miles of actual boost people trying to claim the kits actually work.
No one is using politics here. My point is that there are guys here that have spent 30k+ on their builds and really look down on people trying to do things on the cheap. Hence my post about "upper class" fi citizens VS "middle class" fi citizens. It was by no means to be political, but to CONVEY what goes on between the big spenders and the cheap skates. That's the abstract I've taken from the FI forums in general.
Last edited by jerryd87; 01-29-2013 at 10:37 AM.
01-29-2013, 10:37 AM
#63
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In for the win.
I do second/third the Holset idea as i have first hand experence with them. They are very good budget turbos that take a harsh beating. Id personally be leaning towards a HX40 6 blade if you could.
I do second/third the Holset idea as i have first hand experence with them. They are very good budget turbos that take a harsh beating. Id personally be leaning towards a HX40 6 blade if you could.
01-29-2013, 10:41 AM
#64
edit: i actually went over to some honda forums and they wont even touch the godspeed turbos, they will use the lines and piping and bov but thats about it some might mess with the intercooler........... if honda guys wont even touch the turbo i would definitely not even think about it.
Last edited by jerryd87; 01-29-2013 at 10:57 AM.
01-29-2013, 12:54 PM
#65
The thread in my sig is my budget build.
I wasn't referring to you just to be clear. I do like that you're trying this kit out, although I strongly disagree with just using parts supplied and not upgrading them, but it's your car. I commend the effort you're putting into it.
edit: i actually went over to some honda forums and they wont even touch the godspeed turbos, they will use the lines and piping and bov but thats about it some might mess with the intercooler........... if honda guys wont even touch the turbo i would definitely not even think about it.
Masterpower=old garret frames. Cheap. Reliable. Powerful.
Last edited by Resmarted; 01-29-2013 at 01:00 PM.
01-29-2013, 01:27 PM
#66
Thanks. I only paid $7400 for the z and it's not that I can't afford a built engine and a real turbo kit, it's that I can't justify putting that much money into a $7,000 car.
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 01-29-2013 at 01:28 PM.
01-29-2013, 01:54 PM
#67
Thanks. I only paid $7400 for the z and it's not that I can't afford a built engine and a real turbo kit, it's that I can't justify putting that much money into a $7,000 car.
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
01-29-2013, 01:59 PM
#68
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good luck. Im pretty much done with my build...just gotta find time to swap the new engine in. Think Ive done everything up to this point with around 7k. so it can be done, and doing work yourself saves a ton. : )
01-29-2013, 02:17 PM
#69
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Thanks. I only paid $7400 for the z and it's not that I can't afford a built engine and a real turbo kit, it's that I can't justify putting that much money into a $7,000 car.
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
I own my house and a 3-stall garage where I work on cars and I am very frugal with my money. Though I own 4 cars, two motorcycles, 3 snowmobiles, 18ft stingray, and a limousine. I like my toys, but I have to justify the cost to fun factor I receive from them.
If my motor does blow I will buy a build short block and upgrade the turbo kit, but I think I will be fine for how much I actually drive the car each year and the HP that I am actually shooting for (350max)
So I firmly support your build..
I don't support it when the 2700 bucks is all a kid saved up by being late on his rent and responsibilities and then s Reed up a backyard install and ruins his car.
Build on my man
.I'm staying subs for sure.
I'm glad others are too
01-30-2013, 07:39 AM
#72
ive cheaped out on some parts, its just a matter of what you can and cannot do, example exhuast/headers(i even run knock off headers) seats(there are actually fia approved cheap seats f1spec sells a 12 lb carbon fiber one for the price of a sparco evo) quick release hubs(nrg works great), fuel cells, rods(look at eagle, just dont cheap out on the bolts), heck even precision injectors work fine and are way cheaper then ID. however there are some things you dont cheap out on a turbo being one of them, why? because they spin at ridiculous rpms, its like buying micrometers from a ebay vendor that dosnt speak english..... in that instance the iso certification is there for a reason and worth the extra cash same is the case for turbos.
i have seen very very few people who last any amount of time on ebay turbos and frankly those who do drive like grandma's, im not saying people should drive like alberto lol but dont try and claim that they work because you have 10k miles but the turbo only actually saw 3 or 4 miles of actual boost in that time frame. i spend alot of cash on my build think im about 27k atm but i could have knocked that down by a minimum of 10k mayby even more if i wasnt looking for the power level i am whenever i put the intake back on. the comment of pay to play exists for a reason, its like starting a budget build for a f1 car or a top fuel dragster you have to simply settle on what you can afford.
EVERYONE who thinks that pay to play dosnt apply to them ends up burnt and spending extra cash because they dint do it right the first time because they end up from square 0 since they are now minus everything they bought plus minus an engine and no these engines arnt cheap $400 even is retarded and ive seen some going as high as 1k. i can buy a small block chevy for $150 complete longblock with accessorys, that is cheap and is why people looking to cheap out go with a platform with one of those in it(example third gen camaros, if you want cheap thrills you can build one of those to the 10's for 5-10k including the cost of the car.)
heck the op dosnt even have to go with a mp turbo a holset is cheap as **** and what most people actually use for successful budget builds, you can get a holset hx35 for $300 bucks on ebay although i wouldnt trust the cxracing ones since most of there crap is made in china its prob a knock off but theres more then enough used ones that even with 100k miles will still be years ahead of that china piece in terms of reliability
basically from what im seeing of the op though is he simply is taking the opinion of "screw you guys and your advice and the thousands of others on other platforms who have done this on other platforms and cryed later im still going to do it." bad attitude imo and frankly im betting after its installed he dynos it once and it sees boost one or two more times before he sells the car and is just another of those 3 or 4 miles of actual boost people trying to claim the kits actually work.
i have seen very very few people who last any amount of time on ebay turbos and frankly those who do drive like grandma's, im not saying people should drive like alberto lol but dont try and claim that they work because you have 10k miles but the turbo only actually saw 3 or 4 miles of actual boost in that time frame. i spend alot of cash on my build think im about 27k atm but i could have knocked that down by a minimum of 10k mayby even more if i wasnt looking for the power level i am whenever i put the intake back on. the comment of pay to play exists for a reason, its like starting a budget build for a f1 car or a top fuel dragster you have to simply settle on what you can afford.
EVERYONE who thinks that pay to play dosnt apply to them ends up burnt and spending extra cash because they dint do it right the first time because they end up from square 0 since they are now minus everything they bought plus minus an engine and no these engines arnt cheap $400 even is retarded and ive seen some going as high as 1k. i can buy a small block chevy for $150 complete longblock with accessorys, that is cheap and is why people looking to cheap out go with a platform with one of those in it(example third gen camaros, if you want cheap thrills you can build one of those to the 10's for 5-10k including the cost of the car.)
heck the op dosnt even have to go with a mp turbo a holset is cheap as **** and what most people actually use for successful budget builds, you can get a holset hx35 for $300 bucks on ebay although i wouldnt trust the cxracing ones since most of there crap is made in china its prob a knock off but theres more then enough used ones that even with 100k miles will still be years ahead of that china piece in terms of reliability
basically from what im seeing of the op though is he simply is taking the opinion of "screw you guys and your advice and the thousands of others on other platforms who have done this on other platforms and cryed later im still going to do it." bad attitude imo and frankly im betting after its installed he dynos it once and it sees boost one or two more times before he sells the car and is just another of those 3 or 4 miles of actual boost people trying to claim the kits actually work.
01-30-2013, 07:58 AM
#73
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^ agreed.. maybe im giving the OP too muhc credit, but i dont see this as a guy who can ONLY build this way and is hell bent on justifying it to us....
i see this as more of a " Ive built a ton of cars, and IM jsut playing around here but would still like to report back if i find out it works" situation.
I certainyl know that i recently had a wild hair to ebay turbo my Chrysler 300 3.5 v6.. lol.. why not?
Some would say : for the 2500 id spend, id be better off w N02".. why?
I literally wanted to do this just becuase i think it would look and sound cool.
I simply cant find any data about the internals of this engine tho.. and I ahve more on my plate elsewhere so this project has gone away for now..
but when you CAN afford a 15-25k turbo build.. but simply dont want to.. i think the mindset behind a build like this is frikn hella cool.
I will agree that there are certainyl areas of the buil dthat one shouldnt fully cheap out on tho. and thats w the turbo.
I personally have no experience w any of the parts mentioned here , certainyl not like the other FI MEGA VETS that are in this thread have..
but i think the OP has thick skin, is not trying to justify his budget build to us.. and is taking one for the team here in a big way.. which i totally support and appreciate.
IF we want this forum to stay alive.. if we want ANY new parts to come out for our now discontinued and old car. wed better jump ALL OVER these backyard mods that 18 yr olds can try out. The plastidip scene isnt asking us for our opinion anymore. they're simply taking over all our magazine and show coverage by force etc..
OP, keep rockin it out. ID love to see what you use.. when youre done, you should list a parts list for newbs... and areas of labor to expect, ie, plan to take it to a shop and have the piping fixed etc.
I think that there will NEVER be confusion that your build is now THE WAY...as Jerry says, theres 10 years of data stating the opposite...
I think this thread is valuable just as a list of " DIY at your own risk" parts and procedures.. because right now there is ZERO data for those ppl other than flame threads and GTFO gifs lol. .
i see this as more of a " Ive built a ton of cars, and IM jsut playing around here but would still like to report back if i find out it works" situation.
I certainyl know that i recently had a wild hair to ebay turbo my Chrysler 300 3.5 v6.. lol.. why not?
Some would say : for the 2500 id spend, id be better off w N02".. why?
I literally wanted to do this just becuase i think it would look and sound cool.
I simply cant find any data about the internals of this engine tho.. and I ahve more on my plate elsewhere so this project has gone away for now..
but when you CAN afford a 15-25k turbo build.. but simply dont want to.. i think the mindset behind a build like this is frikn hella cool.
I will agree that there are certainyl areas of the buil dthat one shouldnt fully cheap out on tho. and thats w the turbo.
I personally have no experience w any of the parts mentioned here , certainyl not like the other FI MEGA VETS that are in this thread have..
but i think the OP has thick skin, is not trying to justify his budget build to us.. and is taking one for the team here in a big way.. which i totally support and appreciate.
IF we want this forum to stay alive.. if we want ANY new parts to come out for our now discontinued and old car. wed better jump ALL OVER these backyard mods that 18 yr olds can try out. The plastidip scene isnt asking us for our opinion anymore. they're simply taking over all our magazine and show coverage by force etc..
OP, keep rockin it out. ID love to see what you use.. when youre done, you should list a parts list for newbs... and areas of labor to expect, ie, plan to take it to a shop and have the piping fixed etc.
I think that there will NEVER be confusion that your build is now THE WAY...as Jerry says, theres 10 years of data stating the opposite...
I think this thread is valuable just as a list of " DIY at your own risk" parts and procedures.. because right now there is ZERO data for those ppl other than flame threads and GTFO gifs lol. .
01-30-2013, 08:19 AM
#74
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^ agreed.. maybe im giving the OP too muhc credit, but i dont see this as a guy who can ONLY build this way and is hell bent on justifying it to us....
i see this as more of a " Ive built a ton of cars, and IM jsut playing around here but would still like to report back if i find out it works" situation.
I certainyl know that i recently had a wild hair to ebay turbo my Chrysler 300 3.5 v6.. lol.. why not?
Some would say : for the 2500 id spend, id be better off w N02".. why?
I literally wanted to do this just becuase i think it would look and sound cool.
I simply cant find any data about the internals of this engine tho.. and I ahve more on my plate elsewhere so this project has gone away for now..
but when you CAN afford a 15-25k turbo build.. but simply dont want to.. i think the mindset behind a build like this is frikn hella cool.
I will agree that there are certainyl areas of the buil dthat one shouldnt fully cheap out on tho. and thats w the turbo.
I personally have no experience w any of the parts mentioned here , certainyl not like the other FI MEGA VETS that are in this thread have..
but i think the OP has thick skin, is not trying to justify his budget build to us.. and is taking one for the team here in a big way.. which i totally support and appreciate.
IF we want this forum to stay alive.. if we want ANY new parts to come out for our now discontinued and old car. wed better jump ALL OVER these backyard mods that 18 yr olds can try out. The plastidip scene isnt asking us for our opinion anymore. they're simply taking over all our magazine and show coverage by force etc..
OP, keep rockin it out. ID love to see what you use.. when youre done, you should list a parts list for newbs... and areas of labor to expect, ie, plan to take it to a shop and have the piping fixed etc.
I think that there will NEVER be confusion that your build is now THE WAY...as Jerry says, theres 10 years of data stating the opposite...
I think this thread is valuable just as a list of " DIY at your own risk" parts and procedures.. because right now there is ZERO data for those ppl other than flame threads and GTFO gifs lol. .
i see this as more of a " Ive built a ton of cars, and IM jsut playing around here but would still like to report back if i find out it works" situation.
I certainyl know that i recently had a wild hair to ebay turbo my Chrysler 300 3.5 v6.. lol.. why not?
Some would say : for the 2500 id spend, id be better off w N02".. why?
I literally wanted to do this just becuase i think it would look and sound cool.
I simply cant find any data about the internals of this engine tho.. and I ahve more on my plate elsewhere so this project has gone away for now..
but when you CAN afford a 15-25k turbo build.. but simply dont want to.. i think the mindset behind a build like this is frikn hella cool.
I will agree that there are certainyl areas of the buil dthat one shouldnt fully cheap out on tho. and thats w the turbo.
I personally have no experience w any of the parts mentioned here , certainyl not like the other FI MEGA VETS that are in this thread have..
but i think the OP has thick skin, is not trying to justify his budget build to us.. and is taking one for the team here in a big way.. which i totally support and appreciate.
IF we want this forum to stay alive.. if we want ANY new parts to come out for our now discontinued and old car. wed better jump ALL OVER these backyard mods that 18 yr olds can try out. The plastidip scene isnt asking us for our opinion anymore. they're simply taking over all our magazine and show coverage by force etc..
OP, keep rockin it out. ID love to see what you use.. when youre done, you should list a parts list for newbs... and areas of labor to expect, ie, plan to take it to a shop and have the piping fixed etc.
I think that there will NEVER be confusion that your build is now THE WAY...as Jerry says, theres 10 years of data stating the opposite...
I think this thread is valuable just as a list of " DIY at your own risk" parts and procedures.. because right now there is ZERO data for those ppl other than flame threads and GTFO gifs lol. .
01-30-2013, 08:26 AM
#75
hatersgonnahate
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^DIY builds are supported, but cheap parts are not.
Get rid of the turbo, wastegate,couplers and BOV and you will have a much better kit.
I said it in another thread about this crap turbo kit. I bought a ebay intake and it was JUNK. The couplers faded, expanded, warped and were flimsy. I only needed it to get my vortech fixed. Trashed it afterwards.
Get rid of the turbo, wastegate,couplers and BOV and you will have a much better kit.
I said it in another thread about this crap turbo kit. I bought a ebay intake and it was JUNK. The couplers faded, expanded, warped and were flimsy. I only needed it to get my vortech fixed. Trashed it afterwards.
01-30-2013, 08:27 AM
#76
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fer sure.^ I certainyl agree, again, i just dont know what parts he bought that suck vs the ones that are fine.. i just dont have that experience yet. Hopefully this thread will point those things out. 
I guess the idea that the new emerging youth is "ruining" our cars image is kinda in the wind now anyways too..
lol..plus a 2500 dollar 4psi turbo build certainly doesnt knock any of the shine off my full high budget build... so its no sweat off my back to see this fer sure.
Dunno.. ive just really started being more involved in the scene here locally, and its mostly all younger guys and kids really.. but i find ti much more enjoyable being out and around all of them versus putting up a wall around me where my giant high dollar build makes me untouchable or something lol.
These kids buy Zs and mod em cheap an actually race.. its pretty cool to see actually.
Mines all expensive and polished and sits in a garage .. pretty lame if i raelly think about it lol.
I guess the idea that the new emerging youth is "ruining" our cars image is kinda in the wind now anyways too..
lol..plus a 2500 dollar 4psi turbo build certainly doesnt knock any of the shine off my full high budget build... so its no sweat off my back to see this fer sure.
Dunno.. ive just really started being more involved in the scene here locally, and its mostly all younger guys and kids really.. but i find ti much more enjoyable being out and around all of them versus putting up a wall around me where my giant high dollar build makes me untouchable or something lol.
These kids buy Zs and mod em cheap an actually race.. its pretty cool to see actually.
Mines all expensive and polished and sits in a garage .. pretty lame if i raelly think about it lol.
Last edited by bmccann101; 01-30-2013 at 08:30 AM.
01-30-2013, 08:33 AM
#77
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From my personal experence I ran a 38mm Knock off Tial wastegate with zero issues. I ran it for a while (dont know know exact miles) on a t-61 at 24lbs daily.
Me personally ( which I know no one cares) would not and could not justify spending 15-20k to make a 600whp car due to I know I can do it alot easier and alot cheper with a different platform. (before someone falls off their rocker) To each is own and this is what makes this world go round, if you have that money and want to do it I say Go for it.
Me personally ( which I know no one cares) would not and could not justify spending 15-20k to make a 600whp car due to I know I can do it alot easier and alot cheper with a different platform. (before someone falls off their rocker) To each is own and this is what makes this world go round, if you have that money and want to do it I say Go for it.
01-30-2013, 09:03 AM
#78
I'm not saying the op shouldn't diy I fully support it and do all my work myself. The thing I was saying is a ebay turbo is bad, its not about trying new things its about the fact it has been proven time and again on countless platforms they are bad. The op has had good luck with 2, he either should be buying lottery tickets or the cars hardly ever actually saw boost I wouldn't try my luck a third time. This is doubly reenforced because you could sell the junk turbo to some kid who absolutely refuses to listen since there's tons of them and use that money and mayby 100 extra to buy a holset which is actually a quality turbo and not worry about it grenading.
Like I said though I'm all for doing it yourself there's just a difference between trying new things and just making bad decisions.
Like I said though I'm all for doing it yourself there's just a difference between trying new things and just making bad decisions.
Last edited by jerryd87; 01-30-2013 at 09:06 AM.
