vortech/stock block let go...so *knock on wood, reliable build thread ;-)
#163
I guess it wouldn't be my first motor build if it cranked right up first try. So gurus help me out if possible. Car cranks. Little engine that could starts up if you really feather the gas but sounds horrible like a misfire every second then shuts off. Strong smell of gas. Did pull 1 plug to see if it sparked w coil pack on and it did, not enough spark maybe? Thought about maybe we miss aligned the flywheel but to my understanding if this was the case it wouldn't start at all? Also what's really weird is on my kinetix ssv plenum the very last bank tube gets hot and its the only 1 that's hot
#164
so after some research it sounds like we misaligned the flywheel, rookie mistake. either that or the crank position sensor is in properly shimmed or spaced from the flywheel. have read alot of that happening but im leaning more towards flywheel alignment. if it was aligned incorrectly this could explain why the timing is so messed up and its bogging/backfiring. also maybe why its not throwing a code. however i did try disconnecting the camshaft position sensor and car still doesnt run right. does this all sound like a misaligned fly?
#165
Codes?
I just had a cam sensor go, and the car would crank but not fire. P0340 I believe it was. Just before it wouldn't start, the car was "stuttering" while cruising, like an ignition cut.
I just had a cam sensor go, and the car would crank but not fire. P0340 I believe it was. Just before it wouldn't start, the car was "stuttering" while cruising, like an ignition cut.
Last edited by jrob; 06-10-2013 at 10:49 PM.
#167
OK so got the starting issue done. crank position sensor was not spaced correctly (i had installed the wrong o ring on it. removed o ring, started right up)
now the built long block is running jwt C2 cams and idles real nice however requires some throttle to get started and if you revv the motor it will cut off. i also seem to have a vacuum leak as my gauge is only reading 8-10 vac and before on other motor i had almost 20. car obviously hasnt been tuned w this low comp motor or the cams could this be causing the starting requiring throttle and the car shutting off after revs? will be pulling SSV manifold to check for leaks. couldnt find any on visual and air compressor inspection. the manifold is kinda hard to torque down w a hex esp w the bolts closer to the firewall. could vac leak cause motor to cut off after a rev? long as you dont rev car it idles fine sounds amazing no lights ETC ETC
here is a video of the exhaust note w the cams:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
now the built long block is running jwt C2 cams and idles real nice however requires some throttle to get started and if you revv the motor it will cut off. i also seem to have a vacuum leak as my gauge is only reading 8-10 vac and before on other motor i had almost 20. car obviously hasnt been tuned w this low comp motor or the cams could this be causing the starting requiring throttle and the car shutting off after revs? will be pulling SSV manifold to check for leaks. couldnt find any on visual and air compressor inspection. the manifold is kinda hard to torque down w a hex esp w the bolts closer to the firewall. could vac leak cause motor to cut off after a rev? long as you dont rev car it idles fine sounds amazing no lights ETC ETC
here is a video of the exhaust note w the cams:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
#168
Can anyone w a recently built motor confirm vac pressure? Kyle from IPP said motor may read lower vac till fully broken in. I will be trying a smoke test today to be sure. Also anyone with a built motor and cams have any issues pre tune with start up and idling? Car idles good but requires throttle to start and to stay on if revved
#171
#173
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
great info! thanks guys. car is running great. idle AFR moved from 14.5-14.9 very steady. special thanks to timrod (oldmanZ) for answering all my questions constantly and to everyone else who has helped along the way. burped the coolant today so prob first drive tom now to keep my foot out of her for 750 miles like IPP suggest then bring her to Z1 to have john tune her and she how she does on the ego booster ;-)
Last edited by Drako_MDx; 06-13-2013 at 04:27 PM.
#174
I have heard a lot of good. He told me it didn't need the 750 miles that IPP suggested said 5 heat cycles was all it needed but since the engine builder says it I'm going to just do the 750 then bring it up there, excited. First drive was yesterday and it feels pretty good
#179
if you need motivation to sell them now is the time haha. send me what you want for them and maybe u can just send them with the pump haha but im not in much of a rush just yet. i know theres a guy selling the deatch 1ks right now on g35 driver so i may pick those up since im running deatch 600s and already have the harness done so it would be plug n play. we will see.
#180
New Member
iTrader: (79)
Okie...injectors won't be available for at least a month, but if you're still looking at that point, we'll talk
if you need motivation to sell them now is the time haha. send me what you want for them and maybe u can just send them with the pump haha but im not in much of a rush just yet. i know theres a guy selling the deatch 1ks right now on g35 driver so i may pick those up since im running deatch 600s and already have the harness done so it would be plug n play. we will see.