Procharged G35
02-08-2015, 10:32 AM
#145
well I finaly started disassembling the motor that died on the dyno. All I cay say is omfg motor needs some major tlc...
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I was going to more but I cant get the crank pulley bolt out even with a electric impact rated at 230ft/lbs; and it appers I have lost my torx bits to get the griddle off
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I was going to more but I cant get the crank pulley bolt out even with a electric impact rated at 230ft/lbs; and it appers I have lost my torx bits to get the griddle off
02-08-2015, 05:43 PM
#149
Where did the blowen motor come from?
Ok so here is a little backstory on my two different motors:
1st motor was replaced in January of 2014 with 132K on it. When I bought the car I also bought a aftermarket warranty which covers almost every thing, when I took it to the dealership it was smoking badly, had low compression in #5 Cylinder (or 6), and was consuming oil. The dealership scoped the motor and said they found scratches in the cylinder walls and the warranty people replaced it. I was able to keep the motor since the new motor came from a junk yard and they didn't require a core.
2nd Motor came from a 03 Auto 350Z with 76K on it. I didn't do a compression test on it to verify it was a good motor I took the dealerships word for it. After the motor was installed it went into storage since I was deploying. The motor maybe got 5-600 miles between when it was installed and blew up. I think it had two passes down a drag strip and a what ever it took to get tuned is the only times it ever got close to driven hard.
Also something for you to learn here, what happened to this motor, what was the cause?
I'm not sure what happened I was at work when this happened, the guy tuning it said he didn't hear any odd noises just saw a lot of oil when my VVT Solenoid came off and sprayed oil down the car. He Sent me a picture of a puddle of oil under my car so I went to go inspect it, I found no holes in the block and found my VVT solenoid was the culprit of the oil, So I tried to crank it to see if it would crank and found it was completely seized.
Some potential causes were:
The tune since we was using my NA tune as the baseline and he never retarded the timing so it was at 22* or so. (looking for last log file)
Another possible cause is I washed out my bearings, I'm not sure though I wasn't able to locate the right tools to take of the girdle and rods caps to look at the bearings.
Ok so here is a little backstory on my two different motors:
1st motor was replaced in January of 2014 with 132K on it. When I bought the car I also bought a aftermarket warranty which covers almost every thing, when I took it to the dealership it was smoking badly, had low compression in #5 Cylinder (or 6), and was consuming oil. The dealership scoped the motor and said they found scratches in the cylinder walls and the warranty people replaced it. I was able to keep the motor since the new motor came from a junk yard and they didn't require a core.
2nd Motor came from a 03 Auto 350Z with 76K on it. I didn't do a compression test on it to verify it was a good motor I took the dealerships word for it. After the motor was installed it went into storage since I was deploying. The motor maybe got 5-600 miles between when it was installed and blew up. I think it had two passes down a drag strip and a what ever it took to get tuned is the only times it ever got close to driven hard.
Also something for you to learn here, what happened to this motor, what was the cause?
I'm not sure what happened I was at work when this happened, the guy tuning it said he didn't hear any odd noises just saw a lot of oil when my VVT Solenoid came off and sprayed oil down the car. He Sent me a picture of a puddle of oil under my car so I went to go inspect it, I found no holes in the block and found my VVT solenoid was the culprit of the oil, So I tried to crank it to see if it would crank and found it was completely seized.
Some potential causes were:
The tune since we was using my NA tune as the baseline and he never retarded the timing so it was at 22* or so. (looking for last log file)
Another possible cause is I washed out my bearings, I'm not sure though I wasn't able to locate the right tools to take of the girdle and rods caps to look at the bearings.
This log appears to be 2 runs before it died and has the most data on it.
UpRev_Log9-17-2014_1-43-25_PM - Copy.zip
Last edited by Conway_160; 02-08-2015 at 06:05 PM.
02-08-2015, 06:08 PM
#151
It appears I did shatter a piston, I know that it contacted my Spark plug since the plug was destroyed when I pulled it out.
I had the car tuned with my NA mods about a year before the supercharger so the timing was slightly more aggressive than stock.
I had the car tuned with my NA mods about a year before the supercharger so the timing was slightly more aggressive than stock.
02-09-2015, 12:41 PM
#152
Well got some goodies today.
ARP L19 Head studs and Main Bolts, OEM rebuild kit, Nissan Pathfinder Cooling Mod.
Rev-Up Oil Pump, Eagle H Beam Rods, Wiesco 11:1 Comp Pistons
ACL HX series Race bearings, Thrust Washers, Valve Seals
Now I just have to wait for my local machine shop to have a opening so I can give them my block, ETA until I drop off the block is over a month they are currently 60 Motors behind.
ARP L19 Head studs and Main Bolts, OEM rebuild kit, Nissan Pathfinder Cooling Mod.
Rev-Up Oil Pump, Eagle H Beam Rods, Wiesco 11:1 Comp Pistons
ACL HX series Race bearings, Thrust Washers, Valve Seals
Now I just have to wait for my local machine shop to have a opening so I can give them my block, ETA until I drop off the block is over a month they are currently 60 Motors behind.
02-09-2015, 04:56 PM
#156
Your tuner raped your engine and probably didn't want to own up to it. Normal. Guarantee you he heard it LMAO.
Also have your eagle's dropped off at the machine shop to get set up. My eagles needed to be machined. The small end was too tight, and the big end was out of round. This is totally normal on eagles, vq35 4g63 2jz alike. They're good rods for the money, but the QC is not amazing. You should have rods machined at a shop regardless who they come from, but especially eagle's.
Also have your eagle's dropped off at the machine shop to get set up. My eagles needed to be machined. The small end was too tight, and the big end was out of round. This is totally normal on eagles, vq35 4g63 2jz alike. They're good rods for the money, but the QC is not amazing. You should have rods machined at a shop regardless who they come from, but especially eagle's.
02-09-2015, 04:58 PM
#157
Also if you're using l19's you should get a better than stock headgasket. I'd at bare minimum use an HR gasket and do the cooling mod.... Dynosty has an HKS replica that's a bit cheaper that will more than hold what you'll make. What are you planning on torquing the l19's to?
02-09-2015, 05:09 PM
#158
I plan on getting some sort of HR Gasket with the cooling mod and Pathfinder cooling mod. I don't want to use a 95.5MM head gasket on a 96MM bored motor I'm just trying to order a one part per paycheck right now. I plan on torqueing the Head's down to 95 ft/lb
02-09-2015, 06:06 PM
#159
The dynosty gasket is what I used for my 96mm pistons. It's 300$ I beleive... Er 100$ cheaper than the HKS one. I'm not sure if the HR gaskets can handle that much clamping force... But I really don't know.
02-09-2015, 07:17 PM
#160
What I would like to do is torque to 35, 50, 65, 80, 95. But then im not sure if I need to lossen them and repeat. The fsm says go to 35lbs then go 90* then another 90. Loosen all the way then retorque. Im probably going with either cosworth or dynosty since they are about the same price.