Procharged G35
04-25-2015, 08:54 PM
#285
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
happy for ya conway!
04-26-2015, 07:04 PM
#287
Cleaned the plugs, drained about 6 gallons of old fuel out put 4 gallons of new fuel in and put a 32oz can of VP Octanium in. Car still misses and when you give it gas and let it out it pops backfires. It is looking like #2/6 is off some how. I'm going to let that fuel stuff set and then ill let it run for a few minutes tomorrow to see if that helps at all.
I'm out of ideas.
Things that I've looked at and/or fixed
#1 Crank Position Sensor- Put a new one in and plugs wasn't sparking. So put old one back in.
#2 Fuel Injector Harness- Had it backwards but now that's fixed
#3 Bank 1 and Bank 2 Camshaft Position sensors- Swapped the ones from the old motor onto this one, no change. (No you cant mix them up different sensors)
#4 New Spark Plugs- No change
#5 Moved Ignition Coils Around- no change
#6 Went from my 750cc injector map to my 440cc injector map- No change
#7 Checked all pins on Fuel injectors and ignition coils and the harness.
#8 Checked all Grounds
#9 Ensured all plugs are sparking.
WTF IS GOING ON IT'S DRIVING ME CRAZY ALL I WANT TO DO IS DRIVE IT!!!
I'm out of ideas.
Things that I've looked at and/or fixed
#1 Crank Position Sensor- Put a new one in and plugs wasn't sparking. So put old one back in.
#2 Fuel Injector Harness- Had it backwards but now that's fixed
#3 Bank 1 and Bank 2 Camshaft Position sensors- Swapped the ones from the old motor onto this one, no change. (No you cant mix them up different sensors)
#4 New Spark Plugs- No change
#5 Moved Ignition Coils Around- no change
#6 Went from my 750cc injector map to my 440cc injector map- No change
#7 Checked all pins on Fuel injectors and ignition coils and the harness.
#8 Checked all Grounds
#9 Ensured all plugs are sparking.
WTF IS GOING ON IT'S DRIVING ME CRAZY ALL I WANT TO DO IS DRIVE IT!!!
04-26-2015, 09:12 PM
#288
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^Dude - buy a label maker and label each and every coil, spark, injector plug along with label the cylinders on the valve covers.
I try my best to be bat-**** crazy about details when it comes to these little things...I etched in the numbering sequence, torque specs and other misc items into my timing chain case, intake manifold and plenum so they are immediately available and I have no excuse!
I'll snap a picture next time I'm under my plenum -which I will be to retry the det-can splice in...
with that being said - have you inspected your knock sensor? Can I assume that it's correctly installed and hooked up to the main harness? I know theres a few more wire harness back behind the plenum - like the EVAP gizmo back there (no idea what it's called) or the coolant temp sensor - I forgot to hook up those 3 things when I did my turn over and the car ran but ran like crap...
keep going - don't give up!
I try my best to be bat-**** crazy about details when it comes to these little things...I etched in the numbering sequence, torque specs and other misc items into my timing chain case, intake manifold and plenum so they are immediately available and I have no excuse!
I'll snap a picture next time I'm under my plenum -which I will be to retry the det-can splice in...
with that being said - have you inspected your knock sensor? Can I assume that it's correctly installed and hooked up to the main harness? I know theres a few more wire harness back behind the plenum - like the EVAP gizmo back there (no idea what it's called) or the coolant temp sensor - I forgot to hook up those 3 things when I did my turn over and the car ran but ran like crap...
keep going - don't give up!
Last edited by bealljk; 04-26-2015 at 09:14 PM.
04-27-2015, 03:53 AM
#289
I've triple checked all my connecters. I may finish bleeding my clutch and drive the car around the block to see if I get any codes. I'm just really worried about the rings not seating correctly if the car keeps missing like it is and I keep having to start it to see if I'm making any progress.
04-27-2015, 01:28 PM
#290
well sent a log to Dynosty we'll see if they can come up with anything. I have attached the file so you guys can see what the car is doing as well.CIPHER_4-27-2015_2-51-41_PM.zip
04-27-2015, 04:44 PM
#291
So after talking with Soho motorsports and doing a little testing it appears that the motor is in time but the flywheel isn't. The car is running 30* timing at idle where it should only be running 15* or so they had me remove timing in uprev and see if the car responded and It did so that was a good sign so they had me look at Jim Wolf Technology's website and they have a pdf file on what the cams and flywheel are supposed to look like so I did it and the fly wheel don't match.
Here is what they are supposed to look like
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...tion_check.pdf
This is mine
Bank 1
Bank 2
Flywheel
So looks like I'm going to be taking the car to the hobby shop and removing the transmission this weekend. **** doing that in the garage!!!
I'm hoping this fixes my problems then I also need to remove a ton of timing from my entire map.
Here is what they are supposed to look like
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...tion_check.pdf
This is mine
Bank 1
Bank 2
Flywheel
So looks like I'm going to be taking the car to the hobby shop and removing the transmission this weekend. **** doing that in the garage!!!
I'm hoping this fixes my problems then I also need to remove a ton of timing from my entire map.
05-01-2015, 03:14 PM
#295
Well today sucked! I was hoping to find the root of all my problems but really I discovered I installed the flywheel correctly and that these new headers make putting the transmission in a F'ing nightmare!
Bank 1
Bank 2
Flywheel
So tomorrow I get to reassemble everything and see what happens, also I bled my clutch with a vacuum pump and I still only have 3-4" of area that feels like I have pressure "Never should have remove the rubber line!!!!"
Bank 1
Bank 2
Flywheel
So tomorrow I get to reassemble everything and see what happens, also I bled my clutch with a vacuum pump and I still only have 3-4" of area that feels like I have pressure "Never should have remove the rubber line!!!!"
05-01-2015, 05:41 PM
#296
Well today sucked! I was hoping to find the root of all my problems but really I discovered I installed the flywheel correctly and that these new headers make putting the transmission in a F'ing nightmare!
So tomorrow I get to reassemble everything and see what happens, also I bled my clutch with a vacuum pump and I still only have 3-4" of area that feels like I have pressure "Never should have remove the rubber line!!!!"
So tomorrow I get to reassemble everything and see what happens, also I bled my clutch with a vacuum pump and I still only have 3-4" of area that feels like I have pressure "Never should have remove the rubber line!!!!"
As for the flywheel I would have been surprised if you put it on wrong. I'm pretty sure the fly wheel needs to be correctly timed otherwise vq's won't even start firing?
My car has been idling really rough (won't hold idle/pig rich/missfires like yours originally), but it's open headers atm (and oil lines open to atm/empty of oil) so I won't be trying to get it running correctly until I can quiet it down at least a bit.
So you're running Uprev correct? Did you check for vacuum leaks? How do the spark plugs look? Swapped around coils, no oil on spark plug boots, no weird spark plug gap, what heat level plugs? What's your base fuel pressure?
A friends rb26 had some wicked bad idling issues and would run really "lean" (jump from lean to super super rich) because it had a blown head gasket... But that probably isn't even close to your issue lol.
Last edited by Resmarted; 05-01-2015 at 05:44 PM.
05-01-2015, 06:23 PM
#297
I promise a power bleeder will make that clutch bleed a sinch.
the bleeder I was using was working wonders I could watch the fulid come out. I would fill to max line and drain to min line. I repeated this process about 5 times.
Question: Should I be able to push in the slave cylinder by hand?
As for the flywheel I would have been surprised if you put it on wrong. I'm pretty sure the fly wheel needs to be correctly timed otherwise vq's won't even start firing?
So orginaly I thought I lost my cps so I bought a new one from auto zone, finished the car and found my original one but allready had the new one installed so I left it. Tried to start the and wasnt getting spark so I put old one back in and viola it started. So long story short no with out a cps it wont start, not sure about timing.
My car has been idling really rough (won't hold idle/pig rich/missfires like yours originally), but it's open headers atm (and oil lines open to atm/empty of oil) so I won't be trying to get it running correctly until I can quiet it down at least a bit.
what do you mean open oil lines??
So you're running Uprev correct? Did you check for vacuum leaks? How do the spark plugs look? Swapped around coils, no oil on spark plug boots, no weird spark plug gap, what heat level plugs? What's your base fuel pressure?
Yes im running uprev. I've looked around every thing is connected, im going to do a smoke test tomorow to verify no leaks. I have nkg iridium 1 step colders stock gapping. Ialso have nkg coppers with stock heat range and gap. No oil on the plugs or boots, I've moved the coils around and the plugs all with no change. Base fuel pressure is ~52psi.
A friends rb26 had some wicked bad idling issues and would run really "lean" (jump from lean to super super rich) because it had a blown head gasket... But that probably isn't even close to your issue lol.
the bleeder I was using was working wonders I could watch the fulid come out. I would fill to max line and drain to min line. I repeated this process about 5 times.
Question: Should I be able to push in the slave cylinder by hand?
As for the flywheel I would have been surprised if you put it on wrong. I'm pretty sure the fly wheel needs to be correctly timed otherwise vq's won't even start firing?
So orginaly I thought I lost my cps so I bought a new one from auto zone, finished the car and found my original one but allready had the new one installed so I left it. Tried to start the and wasnt getting spark so I put old one back in and viola it started. So long story short no with out a cps it wont start, not sure about timing.
My car has been idling really rough (won't hold idle/pig rich/missfires like yours originally), but it's open headers atm (and oil lines open to atm/empty of oil) so I won't be trying to get it running correctly until I can quiet it down at least a bit.
what do you mean open oil lines??
So you're running Uprev correct? Did you check for vacuum leaks? How do the spark plugs look? Swapped around coils, no oil on spark plug boots, no weird spark plug gap, what heat level plugs? What's your base fuel pressure?
Yes im running uprev. I've looked around every thing is connected, im going to do a smoke test tomorow to verify no leaks. I have nkg iridium 1 step colders stock gapping. Ialso have nkg coppers with stock heat range and gap. No oil on the plugs or boots, I've moved the coils around and the plugs all with no change. Base fuel pressure is ~52psi.
A friends rb26 had some wicked bad idling issues and would run really "lean" (jump from lean to super super rich) because it had a blown head gasket... But that probably isn't even close to your issue lol.
05-01-2015, 07:17 PM
#298
I prefer vacuum at the slave. It's really important for the reservoir to be as full as possible. If you have a hand soft pedal there's definitely air in there. If you bled it down to the minimum level, you could have gotten air in there at that point. As in you could have had it fully bled and then gulped some air. Kind of annoying.
As for crank yeah that's what I'd imagine would happen.
My oil lines: Feed is not attatched to turbo, return is on the ground lol. I'm switching from turbo to vortech.
And yeah the spark etc sounds solid. Is it possible your maf may have been damaged? It's unlikely a maf issue, but at this point I think it's worth crossing everything you can off the list.
I can't recall, do you have bad cam sensors? I think I've read a couple other people rebuild and have a cam sensor go bad.
And just curious, how did you re-time your engine? Did you pull the front cover off or was there an easier way?
As for crank yeah that's what I'd imagine would happen.
My oil lines: Feed is not attatched to turbo, return is on the ground lol. I'm switching from turbo to vortech.
And yeah the spark etc sounds solid. Is it possible your maf may have been damaged? It's unlikely a maf issue, but at this point I think it's worth crossing everything you can off the list.
I can't recall, do you have bad cam sensors? I think I've read a couple other people rebuild and have a cam sensor go bad.
And just curious, how did you re-time your engine? Did you pull the front cover off or was there an easier way?
05-02-2015, 05:25 AM
#299
I prefer vacuum at the slave. It's really important for the reservoir to be as full as possible. If you have a hand soft pedal there's definitely air in there. If you bled it down to the minimum level, you could have gotten air in there at that point. As in you could have had it fully bled and then gulped some air. Kind of annoying.
As for crank yeah that's what I'd imagine would happen.
My oil lines: Feed is not attatched to turbo, return is on the ground lol. I'm switching from turbo to vortech.
And yeah the spark etc sounds solid. Is it possible your maf may have been damaged? It's unlikely a maf issue, but at this point I think it's worth crossing everything you can off the list.
I can't recall, do you have bad cam sensors? I think I've read a couple other people rebuild and have a cam sensor go bad.
And just curious, how did you re-time your engine? Did you pull the front cover off or was there an easier way?
As for crank yeah that's what I'd imagine would happen.
My oil lines: Feed is not attatched to turbo, return is on the ground lol. I'm switching from turbo to vortech.
And yeah the spark etc sounds solid. Is it possible your maf may have been damaged? It's unlikely a maf issue, but at this point I think it's worth crossing everything you can off the list.
I can't recall, do you have bad cam sensors? I think I've read a couple other people rebuild and have a cam sensor go bad.
And just curious, how did you re-time your engine? Did you pull the front cover off or was there an easier way?
Why are you going from a turbo to vortech? Is it at least a YSI?
Would a Maf cause #2 and #6 problems? I'll get some maf cleaner and clean it, it can't hurt correct?
It was a bad crank position sensor, but I have two sets of cam position sensors and they both acted the same way. Then again that was when my fuel harness was backwards. I'm putting in different cam position sensors in today so we shall see.
