Recommended forged internals based on experience
10-20-2014, 01:23 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Recommended forged internals based on experience
I'm planning on going the FI route with my 03 Z and was curious what rods and pistons you guys used successfully.
My ultimate goal is to make 650~hp and it still be reliable.
I'm planning on keeping stock bore unless its recommended to be sleeved..
I'd like to get away without doing that as my spare block is already honed at stock bore 95.5.
I know the main limiting factor to my goal is octane rating.. so would you recommend a methanol setup?
I only have 93 in my area and I'm planning on using a haltech for tuning. As far as the turbo kit I was going to try to get my hands on a boosted performance twinscroll setup with the 6766.
As far as the heads go, can I get away with stock heads and cams or would you recommend throwing in valves and springs while i got everything apart?
I'm not sure how expensive it will be to port and polish my heads as I haven't priced that but I've heard lots get away without doing that.
I really like the sound of the 272 tomei cams. Will that even benefit my build?
I already have an HR oil pump and was shooting for a 7500 redline unless i can get away with something even higher.
How about a billet girdle, is it really necessary for only 650? Anyways I've been doing tons of research and would just like your two cents if your experienced.
My ultimate goal is to make 650~hp and it still be reliable.
I'm planning on keeping stock bore unless its recommended to be sleeved..
I'd like to get away without doing that as my spare block is already honed at stock bore 95.5.
I know the main limiting factor to my goal is octane rating.. so would you recommend a methanol setup?
I only have 93 in my area and I'm planning on using a haltech for tuning. As far as the turbo kit I was going to try to get my hands on a boosted performance twinscroll setup with the 6766.
As far as the heads go, can I get away with stock heads and cams or would you recommend throwing in valves and springs while i got everything apart?
I'm not sure how expensive it will be to port and polish my heads as I haven't priced that but I've heard lots get away without doing that.
I really like the sound of the 272 tomei cams. Will that even benefit my build?
I already have an HR oil pump and was shooting for a 7500 redline unless i can get away with something even higher.
How about a billet girdle, is it really necessary for only 650? Anyways I've been doing tons of research and would just like your two cents if your experienced.
10-21-2014, 06:35 AM
#2
I don't know ****....but I would exchange your core in on a Dynosty built block. Sounds like you may need higher than a stage one......call and discuss with them.
I say this time and time again.....but if you can afford it have the same shop do the install, provide the parts, and do the tune. This will reduce the finger pointing should something go wrong.
gl
I say this time and time again.....but if you can afford it have the same shop do the install, provide the parts, and do the tune. This will reduce the finger pointing should something go wrong.
gl
10-21-2014, 07:06 AM
#3
First thing to do is find a Local motor builder. Once that has been done I would ask them... I believe a lot guys run stock heads and cams and can still make good powa. With that said the minimalist approach might be best as this limits failures or poor workmanship.
10-21-2014, 10:10 AM
#4
doesnt sound like you are doing any of the work, so give your engine builder a call and go by their recommendations...
import parts pro
dynosty
Z1
Topspeed
VTR
Induction Performance
....
otherwise these are my opinions
manley turbo tuff rods or equivalent
a single 6766 on 93 wont be much fun. laggy and without the octane needed to actually get into its efficiency zone
if you want reliable, you dont want to use a methanol system. pumps and solenoids are finicky plus without a very expenive system there are no failsafes.
you like the sound of tomei cams? thats a perfect reason to buy them.
import parts pro
dynosty
Z1
Topspeed
VTR
Induction Performance
....
otherwise these are my opinions
manley turbo tuff rods or equivalent
a single 6766 on 93 wont be much fun. laggy and without the octane needed to actually get into its efficiency zone
if you want reliable, you dont want to use a methanol system. pumps and solenoids are finicky plus without a very expenive system there are no failsafes.
you like the sound of tomei cams? thats a perfect reason to buy them.
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shawndon (05-20-2016)
10-21-2014, 10:34 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
doesnt sound like you are doing any of the work, so give your engine builder a call and go by their recommendations...
import parts pro
dynosty
Z1
Topspeed
VTR
Induction Performance
....
otherwise these are my opinions
manley turbo tuff rods or equivalent
a single 6766 on 93 wont be much fun. laggy and without the octane needed to actually get into its efficiency zone
if you want reliable, you dont want to use a methanol system. pumps and solenoids are finicky plus without a very expenive system there are no failsafes.
you like the sound of tomei cams? thats a perfect reason to buy them.
import parts pro
dynosty
Z1
Topspeed
VTR
Induction Performance
....
otherwise these are my opinions
manley turbo tuff rods or equivalent
a single 6766 on 93 wont be much fun. laggy and without the octane needed to actually get into its efficiency zone
if you want reliable, you dont want to use a methanol system. pumps and solenoids are finicky plus without a very expenive system there are no failsafes.
you like the sound of tomei cams? thats a perfect reason to buy them.
10-22-2014, 12:17 PM
#6
you do realize that once the exhaust goes thru the turbo, that' those NA cam vids are not what your car will sound like, right? I have C8 cams and there isnt even a lope.
no power til 4500 rpms or more is well beyond daily driving. Daily driving is when you want less lag. trying to pass someone but you have to downshift and floor it to make any boost will get old fast.
i have a big turbo g35, thats not a daily driver and I wouldnt want it to be.
good luck
no power til 4500 rpms or more is well beyond daily driving. Daily driving is when you want less lag. trying to pass someone but you have to downshift and floor it to make any boost will get old fast.
i have a big turbo g35, thats not a daily driver and I wouldnt want it to be.
good luck
10-22-2014, 12:57 PM
#7
from what I rem folks liked the BC2 cams on the DEs with FI.............
But there a a buttload of research that could be done to optimize cams with a particular turbo application.
That's why one of the shops Str8dum listed are pretty damn important for those of us who don't know $hit.....
But there a a buttload of research that could be done to optimize cams with a particular turbo application.
That's why one of the shops Str8dum listed are pretty damn important for those of us who don't know $hit.....
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10-22-2014, 08:19 PM
#9
The 6766 with a T4 1.32 twin scroll performs very well on pump gas. Most of you know how this particular dyno reads as well....
That is a JB turbo, so with a BB unit, you can pick up some spool. Once you start going down to the smaller turbines, EBP becomes a problem. A 1.15 a/r might be able to get the OP to 650whp on a DJ, but why not open things up, especially if he wants to rev to 7,500rpm.
That is a JB turbo, so with a BB unit, you can pick up some spool. Once you start going down to the smaller turbines, EBP becomes a problem. A 1.15 a/r might be able to get the OP to 650whp on a DJ, but why not open things up, especially if he wants to rev to 7,500rpm.
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