Single Turbo Engine Build questions
07-27-2022, 12:40 AM
#1
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Single Turbo Engine Build questions
Hi, this is my first post on this site and I was looking for some advice and also had a few questions. I have a 2004 DE 350 and I'm looking to build my engine to handle around 600hp. I plan on going with a single turbo after my engine is fully built. I also intend on going with the SFR Single Turbo full kit. The parts I have picked out so far are as fallows:
- Wiseco forged pistons and rods
-HKS head gaskets
-ACL thrust washers
-King xp race series Main Bearings, and rod bearings
-APR main bolt stud kit
-OEM Juke cylinder head bolts
- OEM complete gasket kit
-JWT cams and springs
-machining
-ported intake manifold
-plenum spacer
-Isr single exit exhaust
-test pipes
-SFR Single turbo
My questions would be
1) I have a stage 2 clutch atm, and stock transmission. will I have to upgrade my clutch and tranny to hold 600whp.
2) besides engine components is there anything else I will need to have upgraded. I know I will need injectors and fuel system upgrading, but what about diff, drivetrain, etc??
3)As far as the engine build, will these hold 600hp reliably. I want my car to last. If not what other parts will I need. Are all these parts good quality and good for 600?
4) as far as the SFR ST Kit, how is it in reliability. Are there better options? I'm looking to spend under 8k on the turbo kit if possible
5) I really only want to do around 500whp, but I want to be able to handle 600 if I choose to go higher.
In all my end goal is to have a 500-600hp car that is reliable. I plan on having it as my dd so I want it reliable. If I was unclear or left anything out please let me know. Ive only had my z a few months so I am new to the platform. Thanks for the help.
- Wiseco forged pistons and rods
-HKS head gaskets
-ACL thrust washers
-King xp race series Main Bearings, and rod bearings
-APR main bolt stud kit
-OEM Juke cylinder head bolts
- OEM complete gasket kit
-JWT cams and springs
-machining
-ported intake manifold
-plenum spacer
-Isr single exit exhaust
-test pipes
-SFR Single turbo
My questions would be
1) I have a stage 2 clutch atm, and stock transmission. will I have to upgrade my clutch and tranny to hold 600whp.
2) besides engine components is there anything else I will need to have upgraded. I know I will need injectors and fuel system upgrading, but what about diff, drivetrain, etc??
3)As far as the engine build, will these hold 600hp reliably. I want my car to last. If not what other parts will I need. Are all these parts good quality and good for 600?
4) as far as the SFR ST Kit, how is it in reliability. Are there better options? I'm looking to spend under 8k on the turbo kit if possible
5) I really only want to do around 500whp, but I want to be able to handle 600 if I choose to go higher.
In all my end goal is to have a 500-600hp car that is reliable. I plan on having it as my dd so I want it reliable. If I was unclear or left anything out please let me know. Ive only had my z a few months so I am new to the platform. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by HOLEECHIT; 07-27-2022 at 01:06 AM.
07-27-2022, 04:14 AM
#2
pretty big ambitions for a 21 year old. with all that you are doing to the car, i highly doubt you will pass inspection due to commie-fornia's law that prohibits you from altering the ecu
Hi, this is my first post on this site and I was looking for some advice and also had a few questions. I have a 2004 DE 350 and I'm looking to build my engine to handle around 600hp. I plan on going with a single turbo after my engine is fully built. I also intend on going with the SFR Single Turbo full kit. The parts I have picked out so far are as fallows:
- Wiseco forged pistons and rods
-HKS head gaskets
-ACL thrust washers
-King xp race series Main Bearings, and rod bearings
-APR main bolt stud kit
-OEM Juke cylinder head bolts
- OEM complete gasket kit
-JWT cams and springs
-machining
-ported intake manifold
-plenum spacer
-Isr single exit exhaust
-test pipes
-SFR Single turbo
My questions would be
1) I have a stage 2 clutch atm, and stock transmission. will I have to upgrade my clutch and tranny to hold 600whp.
2) besides engine components is there anything else I will need to have upgraded. I know I will need injectors and fuel system upgrading, but what about diff, drivetrain, etc??
3)As far as the engine build, will these hold 600hp reliably. I want my car to last. If not what other parts will I need. Are all these parts good quality and good for 600?
4) as far as the SFR ST Kit, how is it in reliability. Are there better options? I'm looking to spend under 8k on the turbo kit if possible
5) I really only want to do around 500whp, but I want to be able to handle 600 if I choose to go higher.
In all my end goal is to have a 500-600hp car that is reliable. I plan on having it as my dd so I want it reliable. If I was unclear or left anything out please let me know. Ive only had my z a few months so I am new to the platform. Thanks for the help.
- Wiseco forged pistons and rods
-HKS head gaskets
-ACL thrust washers
-King xp race series Main Bearings, and rod bearings
-APR main bolt stud kit
-OEM Juke cylinder head bolts
- OEM complete gasket kit
-JWT cams and springs
-machining
-ported intake manifold
-plenum spacer
-Isr single exit exhaust
-test pipes
-SFR Single turbo
My questions would be
1) I have a stage 2 clutch atm, and stock transmission. will I have to upgrade my clutch and tranny to hold 600whp.
2) besides engine components is there anything else I will need to have upgraded. I know I will need injectors and fuel system upgrading, but what about diff, drivetrain, etc??
3)As far as the engine build, will these hold 600hp reliably. I want my car to last. If not what other parts will I need. Are all these parts good quality and good for 600?
4) as far as the SFR ST Kit, how is it in reliability. Are there better options? I'm looking to spend under 8k on the turbo kit if possible
5) I really only want to do around 500whp, but I want to be able to handle 600 if I choose to go higher.
In all my end goal is to have a 500-600hp car that is reliable. I plan on having it as my dd so I want it reliable. If I was unclear or left anything out please let me know. Ive only had my z a few months so I am new to the platform. Thanks for the help.
07-27-2022, 05:32 AM
#3
My recommendation is to skip the engine build entirely if your engine is currently healthy. Go with the soho, bp, switchback, etc big name brands that have a lot of support and experience. Lower your goals a bit and make sure that you can get the car running well making 400 hp. Then once everything is ironed out and running well, go and build a second motor on the side.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
07-27-2022, 05:42 AM
#4
he might want to read up
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...or-tuned-cars/
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...or-tuned-cars/
As of July 19, 2021, BAR will expand this testing procedure beyond the standard visual inspection and tailpipe test. Now, OBDII-equipped cars and trucks from 1996 or newer will be checked to make sure they're running factory software or a CARB-approved ECU tune. If a car is running software that does not fall into these categories, it will fail the smog check, and can't be registered or renewed until the computer equipment is brought into compliance.
07-27-2022, 07:18 AM
#7
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Welcome to the forum … sounds like a pretty sweet build
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07-27-2022, 03:15 PM
#8
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yeah I'm sure I won't pass inspection which sucks. ill have to basically undo everything just for smog.
07-27-2022, 03:20 PM
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My recommendation is to skip the engine build entirely if your engine is currently healthy. Go with the soho, bp, switchback, etc big name brands that have a lot of support and experience. Lower your goals a bit and make sure that you can get the car running well making 400 hp. Then once everything is ironed out and running well, go and build a second motor on the side.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
OK, I have thought about that as well. I know I can get 40-60k mile engine imported for $1500-2k. right now my engine has 192k miles so its pretty high. I would want to build the engine so I could have a reliable car before putting a lot of power down.
07-27-2022, 03:22 PM
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My recommendation is to skip the engine build entirely if your engine is currently healthy. Go with the soho, bp, switchback, etc big name brands that have a lot of support and experience. Lower your goals a bit and make sure that you can get the car running well making 400 hp. Then once everything is ironed out and running well, go and build a second motor on the side.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
Your budget is probably too low for the turbo kit unless you plan on building it yourself or going with a rear mount kit.
If you are going to build the motor, you need to add the block girdle by dynosty at a minimum, and new timing gear and an oil pump while you are in there. That is probably a ~5-8k motor build if you do it yourself and already have the tools. The turbo components will likely total 7.5-9 k depending on the kit and tuning you go with.
also what did you mean by "Go with the soho, bp, switchback, etc big name brands that have a lot of support and experience."
07-27-2022, 04:55 PM
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07-28-2022, 05:47 AM
#13
There are a few companies that have made a ton of turbo kits for these cars and are well known companies. I have never heard of the company you listed for the turbo kit so I recommended one of the companies that are currently making kits with good customer support.
07-30-2022, 11:48 AM
#14
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
I’m getting caught up …
It looks like a good build list Holee … GreyZ probably gave you the best advice here and coming from his experience level I would do what he said … and I’ll echo off that…
I would get a compression test done on your engine and get a feel for how healthy it is. I suspect, as long as nothing is wrong and the car/engine have been maintained/kept that your engine is going to be perfectly healthy for 400hp-425hp (400ft-torque). Go get a turbo kit and put 8-10psi of boost in it and you will be surprised at how quick the car with a little boost.
Get used to how 400hp drives and then find a block that you can start building on the side.
The parts you’ve selected are perfectly fine … almost, anymore, all aftermarket parts are going to perform about the same and it’s personal preference.
Brian Crower and Eagle probably make the best 600-700hp rods on the market for the price.
I would go with OEM head gaskets - if you go with aftermarket head gaskets it may take a long time to get them
I would order bearings far far far in advance
Dont use Juke bolts … you gotta drill out your OEM head bolt threads and it’s just not worth it - go with ARP L19s … theyre reusable, they’re better, and you really can torque them down (compared to Juke).
You dont need aftermarket cams unless you want them … oem heads/cams will flow 600hp with boost behind them fine espeically if you stay under the OEM 6600 rpm redline … too much higher than this and it’d be wise to get cams/springs.
Add dynosty’s billet girdle
Add a harmonic dampening crank pulley
Stage 2 clutch will hold 400hp, stick with that until you go 600hp+ … upgrade your master cylinder - go with the Tilton model
you’ll need 1050cc injectors and either the 450 or 525 single pump or dual/triple pumps with an aftermarket basket.
You’ll also need a return fuel setup
You will need an upgraded oil pump - get a boundary engineering billet pump…
Get a 3500 series turbo - you dont need a huge turbo to make 400-600hp.
keep your expectations low on the longevity of the 600hp engine … they dont last you are asking quite a bit from an engine that was designed to around 300hp reliable … when you start building engines like this and pushing them this hard everything goes out the window … my experience is on my 4th rebuild and I have 68k miles on the car.
Tuning, ECU modification and california … if you ‘really’ want to do this plan on buying another car … I daily drive a pickup and I dont put much miles on my z … Many people I know that have fast cars that dont comply with EPA/state emissions are garaged except for track events … if you really want a 400hp to 600hp vehicle plan on it being a second car and daily drive something else.
It looks like a good build list Holee … GreyZ probably gave you the best advice here and coming from his experience level I would do what he said … and I’ll echo off that…
I would get a compression test done on your engine and get a feel for how healthy it is. I suspect, as long as nothing is wrong and the car/engine have been maintained/kept that your engine is going to be perfectly healthy for 400hp-425hp (400ft-torque). Go get a turbo kit and put 8-10psi of boost in it and you will be surprised at how quick the car with a little boost.
Get used to how 400hp drives and then find a block that you can start building on the side.
The parts you’ve selected are perfectly fine … almost, anymore, all aftermarket parts are going to perform about the same and it’s personal preference.
Brian Crower and Eagle probably make the best 600-700hp rods on the market for the price.
I would go with OEM head gaskets - if you go with aftermarket head gaskets it may take a long time to get them
I would order bearings far far far in advance
Dont use Juke bolts … you gotta drill out your OEM head bolt threads and it’s just not worth it - go with ARP L19s … theyre reusable, they’re better, and you really can torque them down (compared to Juke).
You dont need aftermarket cams unless you want them … oem heads/cams will flow 600hp with boost behind them fine espeically if you stay under the OEM 6600 rpm redline … too much higher than this and it’d be wise to get cams/springs.
Add dynosty’s billet girdle
Add a harmonic dampening crank pulley
Stage 2 clutch will hold 400hp, stick with that until you go 600hp+ … upgrade your master cylinder - go with the Tilton model
you’ll need 1050cc injectors and either the 450 or 525 single pump or dual/triple pumps with an aftermarket basket.
You’ll also need a return fuel setup
You will need an upgraded oil pump - get a boundary engineering billet pump…
Get a 3500 series turbo - you dont need a huge turbo to make 400-600hp.
keep your expectations low on the longevity of the 600hp engine … they dont last you are asking quite a bit from an engine that was designed to around 300hp reliable … when you start building engines like this and pushing them this hard everything goes out the window … my experience is on my 4th rebuild and I have 68k miles on the car.
Tuning, ECU modification and california … if you ‘really’ want to do this plan on buying another car … I daily drive a pickup and I dont put much miles on my z … Many people I know that have fast cars that dont comply with EPA/state emissions are garaged except for track events … if you really want a 400hp to 600hp vehicle plan on it being a second car and daily drive something else.
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350zHunter (11-30-2022)
08-01-2022, 07:59 AM
#15
Most of the important points have been covered here. I just completed a single turbo build that made 607 on a built motor.
In short, I aimed and overbuilt the motor by a long shot (likely could hold 750), and typically run it on the low boost map making around 550. I pay very close attention to temps and am in the middle of upgrading a couple of remaining things to keep stuff in check.
This is quite a massive undertaking. Don't be fooled by these instagram kids throwing on cheap rear mounts and parts.
To do it right will take time and money.
I would agree with the suggestion to boost your stock block to around 400 and enjoy it.
In short, I aimed and overbuilt the motor by a long shot (likely could hold 750), and typically run it on the low boost map making around 550. I pay very close attention to temps and am in the middle of upgrading a couple of remaining things to keep stuff in check.
This is quite a massive undertaking. Don't be fooled by these instagram kids throwing on cheap rear mounts and parts.
To do it right will take time and money.
I would agree with the suggestion to boost your stock block to around 400 and enjoy it.
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bealljk (08-01-2022)
08-01-2022, 11:09 AM
#16
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Im on a facebook group chat where a portion of the members are very hard on their cars. Street racing, parking lot doughnuts, highway flame maps, street antilag/burbles/pops, sanctioned/unsanctioned drifting. They post their schnanagins from the weekend and then post up ‘help, I have 10 different lights on my dash, my car doesnt shift into 3rd gear, my o2 senors are shot, my engine is knocking/smoking/limp mode/down on power/etc, I need a new clutch, my rear diff is clinking’ on monday morning … and it just makes me laugh …
Last edited by bealljk; 08-01-2022 at 11:18 AM.
08-02-2022, 04:29 AM
#17
Couldnt have said it better … The worst thing about social media is that all you see is the highlight reel … you dont see what went into, what it costs, what problems were encountered, and then after the fact, how long it lasts, how much maintenance and upkeep is involved and the aftermath when shet hits the fan.
Im on a facebook group chat where a portion of the members are very hard on their cars. Street racing, parking lot doughnuts, highway flame maps, street antilag/burbles/pops, sanctioned/unsanctioned drifting. They post their schnanagins from the weekend and then post up ‘help, I have 10 different lights on my dash, my car doesnt shift into 3rd gear, my o2 senors are shot, my engine is knocking/smoking/limp mode/down on power/etc, I need a new clutch, my rear diff is clinking’ on monday morning … and it just makes me laugh …
Im on a facebook group chat where a portion of the members are very hard on their cars. Street racing, parking lot doughnuts, highway flame maps, street antilag/burbles/pops, sanctioned/unsanctioned drifting. They post their schnanagins from the weekend and then post up ‘help, I have 10 different lights on my dash, my car doesnt shift into 3rd gear, my o2 senors are shot, my engine is knocking/smoking/limp mode/down on power/etc, I need a new clutch, my rear diff is clinking’ on monday morning … and it just makes me laugh …
Reminds me of a reel I saw of a rear mount kit a kid installed and was showing off with some trending audio...there was a small pool of oil under the turbo. Most missed that.
I do believe a clean rear mount can be done, but I've only seem maybe one or two of them.
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