My FI friends, im at a loss of whats causing my issues. i turn to you.
09-28-2015, 03:37 PM
#1
My FI friends, im at a loss of whats causing my issues. i turn to you.
background story, car has ran great since built and boosted for the last 2 years. i track (HPDE/Autox) the car monthly with zero mechanical issues till now, i bought a set of drag radials and went to my first day at the strip (made 16 passes) at the strip i torn up the clutch disk (was still on a organic JWT, trans is out and replacing w a 6 puck as we speak) got the car back home OK
Next day i cranked the car and it would not start without giving it gas, the car would not idle on its own while the motor is cold. it would lean out on my AFR and die, rev the car it will revv to redline no issues, but will die on decel. once the car is hot it will idle but its searching in the AFR and only when hot will it not die. when hot after you revv the car it will idle but still searches while idling lean,rich, lean rich without dying. car is throwing no codes currently but did throw a bank 1 sensor 1 lean condition a few times in the past, i reset it and it has no issues for a few months, it did throw this code the night at the strip. cleared w cipher has not returned
what has been done or tried
-car is tuned on uprev
-uprev GT maf has been cleaned (a few times)
-replaced my upstream sensors with another set i had (no change)
-checked for leaks in manifold and vac lines( none found)
my boost gauge also reads VAC and its normal at idle (till it goes lean and dies)
-replaced spark plugs, they were fairly black w carbon.
-the crank position sensor was filthy w clutch hair, cleaned and tried that(no change)
-replaced crank sensor w a known working spare (no change)
-pulled both cam sensors on the back of the motor, cleaned and reinstalled
- inspected all coil packs for blistering, all look good
- replaced throttle body with a known working TB and did all resets
- did the fuel relearn on cipher
- today i pulled the spark plugs that were in the car for maybe 2 weeks since i have been trying to diagnose the issue and they are white on the tips, very lean. it was also brought to my attention that they are gapped bigger than suggested ( they are NGK 1 step colder w factory gap at .040) but i dont think the gap alone would cause this.
i am at a loss with what to try next, i dont wanna just start throwing parts at it. any advice guys? could it still be the MAF even w no code? maybe fuel issue? injectors?
Next day i cranked the car and it would not start without giving it gas, the car would not idle on its own while the motor is cold. it would lean out on my AFR and die, rev the car it will revv to redline no issues, but will die on decel. once the car is hot it will idle but its searching in the AFR and only when hot will it not die. when hot after you revv the car it will idle but still searches while idling lean,rich, lean rich without dying. car is throwing no codes currently but did throw a bank 1 sensor 1 lean condition a few times in the past, i reset it and it has no issues for a few months, it did throw this code the night at the strip. cleared w cipher has not returned
what has been done or tried
-car is tuned on uprev
-uprev GT maf has been cleaned (a few times)
-replaced my upstream sensors with another set i had (no change)
-checked for leaks in manifold and vac lines( none found)
my boost gauge also reads VAC and its normal at idle (till it goes lean and dies)
-replaced spark plugs, they were fairly black w carbon.
-the crank position sensor was filthy w clutch hair, cleaned and tried that(no change)
-replaced crank sensor w a known working spare (no change)
-pulled both cam sensors on the back of the motor, cleaned and reinstalled
- inspected all coil packs for blistering, all look good
- replaced throttle body with a known working TB and did all resets
- did the fuel relearn on cipher
- today i pulled the spark plugs that were in the car for maybe 2 weeks since i have been trying to diagnose the issue and they are white on the tips, very lean. it was also brought to my attention that they are gapped bigger than suggested ( they are NGK 1 step colder w factory gap at .040) but i dont think the gap alone would cause this.
i am at a loss with what to try next, i dont wanna just start throwing parts at it. any advice guys? could it still be the MAF even w no code? maybe fuel issue? injectors?
Last edited by Colombo; 09-28-2015 at 03:38 PM.
09-28-2015, 03:44 PM
#2
Fuel pump or fuel injectors are possibilities. If all cylinders are lean based on plug, then probably fuel pump but they might just have white tips cause you are at idle all the time while trying to diagnose this issue. What kind of fuel system do you have? Are you able to monitor fuel pressure? I doubt it is spark because you are lean, not rich. It is either too much air (vacuum leak) or too little fuel (dirty line/clogged filter, failing pump, dirty injectors).
Last edited by rcdash; 09-28-2015 at 03:47 PM.
09-28-2015, 03:46 PM
#4
this was the plugs after the strip(disregard the smashed 1 i dropped it)
here is the crank sensor after the strip
and here is the plugs i just pulled out the car. the car did not leave my garage w these plugs. for the last 2 weeks i have cranked the car in the garage and revvd it w its current issues.
here is the crank sensor after the strip
and here is the plugs i just pulled out the car. the car did not leave my garage w these plugs. for the last 2 weeks i have cranked the car in the garage and revvd it w its current issues.
09-28-2015, 03:53 PM
#5
Fuel pump or fuel injectors are possibilities. If all cylinders are lean based on plug, then probably fuel pump but they might just have white tips cause you are at idle all the time while trying to diagnose this issue. What kind of fuel system do you have? Are you able to monitor fuel pressure? I doubt it is spark because you are lean, not rich. It is either too much air (vacuum leak) or too little fuel (dirty line/clogged filter, failing pump, dirty injectors).
i can watch fuel pressure on the FPR if need be. it appears to idle at the correct fuel pressure.
whats odd to me if it is fuel, why does the car revv fine. AFR even reads normal when revving the car. and why act MORE normal when warm.
also these issues started at a very very low amount of fuel. then refilled so i dont believe it is bad gas. but i cannot rule out a dirty/clogged screen on the basket
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09-29-2015, 03:07 PM
#8
really starting to lean towards a mystery vac leak. Best way to check for vac leaks? Have tried the spray down w carb cleaner etc to see if it changes anything and can't find any like that. Not many vac lines on this motor so I have checked that they are all in place. At least all the visible lines. Possibly a leak from the base of my kinetix or lower plenum? Anyone know a way to make your own smoke test. Will be searching and researching some more on this. Any and all suggestions will be great!!
My theory( be it correct or not) is that while the motor is Cold the leak is larger than when it's warm (possibly gasket expanding etc) because when motor is warm my symptoms subside somewhat.
My theory( be it correct or not) is that while the motor is Cold the leak is larger than when it's warm (possibly gasket expanding etc) because when motor is warm my symptoms subside somewhat.
Last edited by Colombo; 09-29-2015 at 03:08 PM.
09-30-2015, 11:55 AM
#12
That was a thought of mine as well. I cleaned it many times and everytime I pulled it it had hairs on it so it may have contributed. Have a cd009 going in w a 6 puck soon as this flywheel gets here
Last edited by Colombo; 09-30-2015 at 11:56 AM.
10-01-2015, 07:26 AM
#13
YA, Like Str8dun1 said, get the Clutch Area all cleaned up and trans installed First.
I know that's a crappy job cleaning all that stuff out of the bell housing. Nasty stuff, wear a mask and Eye protection.
When I fried my JWT Clutch it was a mess like you're. It happened at the drag strip, and I pushed it on the trailer, pushed it into my garage and pulled the trans. So I don't know if it would have caused a problem with the crank sensor or not.
I know that's a crappy job cleaning all that stuff out of the bell housing. Nasty stuff, wear a mask and Eye protection.
When I fried my JWT Clutch it was a mess like you're. It happened at the drag strip, and I pushed it on the trailer, pushed it into my garage and pulled the trans. So I don't know if it would have caused a problem with the crank sensor or not.
10-01-2015, 07:50 AM
#14
YA, Like Str8dun1 said, get the Clutch Area all cleaned up and trans installed First.
I know that's a crappy job cleaning all that stuff out of the bell housing. Nasty stuff, wear a mask and Eye protection.
When I fried my JWT Clutch it was a mess like you're. It happened at the drag strip, and I pushed it on the trailer, pushed it into my garage and pulled the trans. So I don't know if it would have caused a problem with the crank sensor or not.
I know that's a crappy job cleaning all that stuff out of the bell housing. Nasty stuff, wear a mask and Eye protection.
When I fried my JWT Clutch it was a mess like you're. It happened at the drag strip, and I pushed it on the trailer, pushed it into my garage and pulled the trans. So I don't know if it would have caused a problem with the crank sensor or not.
10-01-2015, 08:03 AM
#16
Ya, you Beat that up good........ It's just all that Horse Power!
Make sure you use Red Loctite on the Flywheel Bolts. I did not like the Torx Head Bolts that I used with the JWT Flywheel, (don't know what you have) so I got Hex Head Flywheel Bolts from Zspeed. But that's just me.
Make sure you use Red Loctite on the Flywheel Bolts. I did not like the Torx Head Bolts that I used with the JWT Flywheel, (don't know what you have) so I got Hex Head Flywheel Bolts from Zspeed. But that's just me.
10-08-2015, 03:41 PM
#17
New trans/clutch/fly in. Car still has issues. Will not hold idle (goes lean and dies) unless I give it gas. Once warm will idle and rev to redline no problems. But car still bucks and hesitates when going to wot just like it did before (I thought maybe real bad slipping) but I now know that wasn't the case. Fuel? Boost leak? Vac? I'm really at a loss. Will be chasing a boost leak further even tho when idling I ran my hands around all the clamps and felt none. Maybe bov not working when in boost? Injector or pump issues? I have this 1/2 mile event in a month and it's already paid for 😁😁😁
http://youtu.be/ZqbiL4R3chA
http://youtu.be/ZqbiL4R3chA
Last edited by Colombo; 10-08-2015 at 03:44 PM.
10-08-2015, 07:08 PM
#18
Checked fuel filter yet?
Does fuel pressure raise when rpm/power raises ?
my car did that when i got the wrong filter for E85 and it clogged.
Also get the injectors flow tested and cleaned if needed
do you have wideband o2 ?
Does fuel pressure raise when rpm/power raises ?
my car did that when i got the wrong filter for E85 and it clogged.
Also get the injectors flow tested and cleaned if needed
do you have wideband o2 ?
Last edited by R6n350GT; 10-08-2015 at 07:45 PM.
10-09-2015, 03:55 AM
#20
I'm unsure if the idle issue and the hesitation issue are one problem or 2. But they both appeared at the exact same time so I assume they are related.