Guilty1s

iTrader: (12)

So the stock block didn't last all that long at 447/401 so I'm about to build something a little more reliable, but i do have questions to get this done right the first time.

To start with. Let me break down what i currently sit with
Was a stock block low mileage VQ35DE
Vortech V3 2.87" pulley with custom intercooler and 3" piping
Uprev Osirus with UPrev MAF
Custom headers/ to a 2.5 y-pipe to 3" all the way back
Simplified/adequate cooling setup

Made 447/401 at Z1 Motorsports. Lasted me almost 1.5 years of abuse.




So my plan are as followed with lots of questions, a lot of this will be up to debate/opinion. Goals are more reliability, but will consider bumping up the timing and also putting a different intake manifold on so it doesn't drop off so bad after 6K.

I sorta numbered my questions so they would be easier to address?

1. So, gonna start with one of my spare blocks. I assume it a better idea to just go ahead and go .02 over regardless. Should i trust someone who says they don't need a torque plate???... I don't think so.

2. Going to go with the standard offered weisco/eagle combo. This should be plenty for my goal and still probably the best deal. Factory crank and balance should be in store.

3. Should i go ahead and do HR head gasket cooling mod. Figured it would be cheap insurance.

4. On the note of gaskets, obviously OEM gasket kit, but what is the go to head gasket for these power levels. Do OEM gaskets (HR/DE) hold up or is something aftermarket necessary.

5. Head Studs - I know L19s are the best but a huge chunk of change. I see a lot of talk about HR bolts and even the Turbo Juke MR bolts being good. Would they be good enough or even superior to the standard ARPs (non L19)

6.Bearings... this one has got me wondering. OEM bearings that are graded specifically for the crank/block... or just a set of some ACL race bearing. Regardless they should be blueprinted but I'm not sure what the proper way to go is here.

7. Revup oil pump seems like a no-brainer. The Nismo pump is a little out of budget

8. Are main studs a thing for VQs? I assume why not. Should line boring be something i look into?

That is all about i can think of for the short block unless someone has something to add.


More questions though.
9. I was gonna freshen up the heads for the rebuild but is there any of that now going to be my weakest link that needs improving. I don't think i am going to have any reason to spin over 7k, but i was gonna leave that up to the tuner.

10. I don't think there is any power to be pulled from the heads anyways, especially where i am already pushing the limits of a V3 Vortech anyways. I've considered putting in some JWT C2 or C8 cams, but I'm not sure if its in the budget or if there is going to be gains to have anyways. Opinions?

evilscorp

You have basically listed all the parts in my attic, (went for L19's though), and main studs, acl bearings. Been collecting and hording them for past two years and every time I do research it still seems to be the combo I will stick with. As you said I would refresh the heads with new valve stem seals but no point doing much more if rpm is staying near stock. Head gasket is still up for debate with myself though, 50-50 for either cometic or HR with block mod.
Not much help but shows you that someone else is doing the same.

2bad240

iTrader: (6)

Got pics of the engine setup and ic and piping?

hulkout

I'm just going to chime in with what I am running along with my opinion and experiences. I ran 446whp/443wtq for 2 years on this setup. I'm Currently 620.5 rwhp and 570.7 tq on greddy 18g twins.

1. I don't know about machining much. If you don't trust him, go elsewhere. The vq is known to be a finnicky block in the machining department. A good machinist should be able to tell you whether you need a line bore or not too.

2. I'm running the stock crank and eagle/wiseco setup. So far so good. The advertised limit of the Eagles is 1500 flywheel hp. We have seen instances of them
Breaking in the 800-900 whp range I believe. When I talked to a wiseco rep on the phone he told me a limit of 900 flywheel hp for the Pistons due to the wrist pin. There is an upgraded wrist pin available. I don't have it. So far so good for me. Should be a cost effective setup for your goal.

3 and 4. I have stock replacement DE head gaskets. So far so good. No overheating issues. But I have many other cooling mods. The HKS are nice gaskets but they're spendy. I've had no issues with mine.

5. i have L19s. Overkill I'm pretty sure. For the range you can touch with that vortech I would go with the standard arp. I have no experience with the other options you listed.

6. ACLs are good bearings. That's what's in mine.

7. Revup oil pump was recommended to me too late. Mines the standard DE pump. No issues. But if I was to do it again I would get the rev up.

8. yep. You can even get main studs in a kit with standard or L19 head studs from arp. I threw them in. Like you said "why not"?

9 and 10. I think somewhere along the lines there was a thread where it was decided you can crack 500whp on the stock heads and cams. A little more breathing room for your engine couldn't hurt anything though if you have the money. Always do valve stem seals while you're in there.

Guilty1s

iTrader: (12)

Guilty1s

iTrader: (12)

Thank you. A lot of that is reassuring but after a little bit of research, I think I'm still set in my plans until proven not.

I'm gonna go with the HR head gasket setup with the HR or MR bolts. They seem to be plenty reliable especially at that power level. I have read that the 95.5mm HG will be just fine for a 96mm bore without modification... That true?

I'm also still set on oem bearings. They seem to have proven themselves to a few of the high quality shops. I don't even think they will be cheaper, but I do think they will be better. I haven't had the best of luck with ACLs but I feel that is more **** luck then anything. I know VQs can be the pickiest when it comes to bearings though.

I love my machinist, but he is gonna tell me I don't need a Torque plate and I think these motors are picky. Apperently each piston is sized with variance from the factory with oem stuff. So a fresh proper bore should set everything perfect for new Pistons. I just need to find a shop and mazworks is first on my list to inquiry about.

Engloid

Whats the difference in the HR and DE headgaskets? Is it a matter of just adding or enlarging some holes in the DE gaskets to get the added coolant flow?

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

DE is a 2 layer and HR is a 3 Layer.

Some where there is a link to show the differences in Head Gaskets, Studs, and Heads but for the life of me I cant remember where it is.


Here is the link.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...BOLTS_juke.pdf