350z VQ35DE Forced Induction Query
11-02-2015, 03:01 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
350z VQ35DE Forced Induction Query
Hey all, I am a happy 350z owner but I am thinking of adding a little more horses. Since it is a heavy-ish sports car I think adding some BHP will make it's ride even more awsome 
I got a query with boosting the Z. First of all my Z is a VQ35DE rev up, year 2006. It has 77k miles on it.
I am aiming for around 460-480BHP at the crank which should equate to around 400WHP (wheels)
option 1 - Stock
with around € 8-9k I can get it SC or Turbocharged. But can the VQ35DE handle 400WHP with giving me at least another 40k miles ?
if option 1 is not douable, i guess I gotta switch to option 2 - semi-engine rebuild
what are the minimum stuff I need to change from my engine to make it safe (400WHP) without spending like €20k.
Appreciate any comments as I a complete newbie with performance upgrades to my car.
Cheers
Kristian
I got a query with boosting the Z. First of all my Z is a VQ35DE rev up, year 2006. It has 77k miles on it. I am aiming for around 460-480BHP at the crank which should equate to around 400WHP (wheels)
option 1 - Stock
with around € 8-9k I can get it SC or Turbocharged. But can the VQ35DE handle 400WHP with giving me at least another 40k miles ?
if option 1 is not douable, i guess I gotta switch to option 2 - semi-engine rebuild
what are the minimum stuff I need to change from my engine to make it safe (400WHP) without spending like €20k.
Appreciate any comments as I a complete newbie with performance upgrades to my car.
Cheers
Kristian
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gotama (02-20-2016)
11-02-2015, 07:07 AM
#3
I’ve got the forced induction query 
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
11-02-2015, 08:17 AM
#4
You will be in over your head with a engine build. It happens, and it's not cheap when doing it right.
400whp when optimally tuned and properly maintained is perfectly fine on the stock DE.
You need to make sure it is healthy before hand (overall diagnostics, compression test) and then once you do the TT or SC , you need to do your part and change the oil every 3000/3500 miles and use a good product such as Amsoil Sig Series.
I would recommend a used Vortech or Momentum kit. You can get these for $3k-$5k depending on the seller. There is always a kit for sale on the 350z Facebook groups. Momentum is the best kit for the DE but rarely for sale. Every now and then one pops up. BP also sells quality single turbo kits on this forum.
I would not get a ebay kit or a Turbonetics or Godspeed , etc. They are crap and will not last or are reliable in the grand scheme of things.
Lastly, you can find out ways to do it smart but cheaper. Going flat out cheap on quality will only give you regrets.
400whp when optimally tuned and properly maintained is perfectly fine on the stock DE.
You need to make sure it is healthy before hand (overall diagnostics, compression test) and then once you do the TT or SC , you need to do your part and change the oil every 3000/3500 miles and use a good product such as Amsoil Sig Series.
I would recommend a used Vortech or Momentum kit. You can get these for $3k-$5k depending on the seller. There is always a kit for sale on the 350z Facebook groups. Momentum is the best kit for the DE but rarely for sale. Every now and then one pops up. BP also sells quality single turbo kits on this forum.
I would not get a ebay kit or a Turbonetics or Godspeed , etc. They are crap and will not last or are reliable in the grand scheme of things.
Lastly, you can find out ways to do it smart but cheaper. Going flat out cheap on quality will only give you regrets.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; 11-02-2015 at 08:21 AM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
11-02-2015, 09:35 AM
#5
With 8-9k€ you would be able to get the important supporting mods like radiator and oil cooler and fuel return, clutch and flywheel. Proper cooling is really important if you track the car or do some autobahn driving.
If you are looking to build the engine in the future Vortech is probably the way to go. With a built engine you can upgrade to a bigger turbo, but remember that it usually means also bigger injectors, bigger intercooler, etc
My prices do not include labor. I bought a used HKS kit few years back 3,5k€. Did some upgrades, tracked the car and the engine blew. Now I'm doing a build. It's +5k€ with me doing all the work except machining. Total money spent will be +10k€
It will be fun, but it can also get frustrating and expensive. With that said would I go back to NA, hell no!
If you are looking to build the engine in the future Vortech is probably the way to go. With a built engine you can upgrade to a bigger turbo, but remember that it usually means also bigger injectors, bigger intercooler, etc
My prices do not include labor. I bought a used HKS kit few years back 3,5k€. Did some upgrades, tracked the car and the engine blew. Now I'm doing a build. It's +5k€ with me doing all the work except machining. Total money spent will be +10k€
It will be fun, but it can also get frustrating and expensive. With that said would I go back to NA, hell no!
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gotama (02-20-2016)
11-02-2015, 10:02 AM
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
I’ve got the forced induction query
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
I got my turbo kit for a steal, $5k (BNIB Momentum), and that was nowhere near the end of the cost. 12k later, it was a running, boosted Z. Can you do it for 10k? Sure. Will it be reliable? I doubt it. Don't go cheap when you're going FI, you'll regret it later. Do your research, I did three years of it before I boosted my Z.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
11-02-2015, 12:06 PM
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
I’ve got the forced induction query
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
cheers for data. will check out these parts.
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11-02-2015, 12:33 PM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
You will be in over your head with a engine build. It happens, and it's not cheap when doing it right.
400whp when optimally tuned and properly maintained is perfectly fine on the stock DE.
You need to make sure it is healthy before hand (overall diagnostics, compression test) and then once you do the TT or SC , you need to do your part and change the oil every 3000/3500 miles and use a good product such as Amsoil Sig Series.
I would recommend a used Vortech or Momentum kit. You can get these for $3k-$5k depending on the seller. There is always a kit for sale on the 350z Facebook groups. Momentum is the best kit for the DE but rarely for sale. Every now and then one pops up. BP also sells quality single turbo kits on this forum.
I would not get a ebay kit or a Turbonetics or Godspeed , etc. They are crap and will not last or are reliable in the grand scheme of things.
Lastly, you can find out ways to do it smart but cheaper. Going flat out cheap on quality will only give you regrets.
400whp when optimally tuned and properly maintained is perfectly fine on the stock DE.
You need to make sure it is healthy before hand (overall diagnostics, compression test) and then once you do the TT or SC , you need to do your part and change the oil every 3000/3500 miles and use a good product such as Amsoil Sig Series.
I would recommend a used Vortech or Momentum kit. You can get these for $3k-$5k depending on the seller. There is always a kit for sale on the 350z Facebook groups. Momentum is the best kit for the DE but rarely for sale. Every now and then one pops up. BP also sells quality single turbo kits on this forum.
I would not get a ebay kit or a Turbonetics or Godspeed , etc. They are crap and will not last or are reliable in the grand scheme of things.
Lastly, you can find out ways to do it smart but cheaper. Going flat out cheap on quality will only give you regrets.
Now a question: if I change the pistons and rods and ARP Studs kit, would this guarantee long life to the engine for 400WHP ? spending an extra 2k/3k for engine durability seems worthed imo. Maybe doing this would also open up new opportunities to boost the engine from 400WHP to 500WHP. I don't wanna push it too much tho, I prefer engine safety first.
What would you guys recommend ?
By the way my current upgrades are:
- exhaust motordyne TDX v2,
- JWT clutch kit - can handle over 500WHP+
- and light flywheel.
cheers
11-02-2015, 01:36 PM
#9
Registered User
thx for info, this would be my low cost option which would be awesome. I got a good tuner dude which can hook me up. Now all I need is to find a good kit.
Now a question: if I change the pistons and rods and ARP Studs kit, would this guarantee long life to the engine for 400WHP ? spending an extra 2k/3k for engine durability seems worthed imo. Maybe doing this would also open up new opportunities to boost the engine from 400WHP to 500WHP. I don't wanna push it too much tho, I prefer engine safety first.
What would you guys recommend ?
By the way my current upgrades are:
- exhaust motordyne TDX v2,
- JWT clutch kit - can handle over 500WHP+
- and light flywheel.
cheers
Now a question: if I change the pistons and rods and ARP Studs kit, would this guarantee long life to the engine for 400WHP ? spending an extra 2k/3k for engine durability seems worthed imo. Maybe doing this would also open up new opportunities to boost the engine from 400WHP to 500WHP. I don't wanna push it too much tho, I prefer engine safety first.
What would you guys recommend ?
By the way my current upgrades are:
- exhaust motordyne TDX v2,
- JWT clutch kit - can handle over 500WHP+
- and light flywheel.
cheers
Reliability and safety is a open term. Many, myself included havengone pass 400whp without blowing the engine, while the less fortunates, blew their wngine during tuning at 350whp or less. Anytime you boost a car, is a gamble. Reduce the chance of the engine blowing by doing a compression test, get a rough idea of what youre working with. And up your boost if needed, slowly.
My advice, get all the supporting mods, THEN actually boost the car EXPECTING it to bloe and hopping that it doesnt. It always happens when you least expected and when youre not ready for it too.
These parts arent cheap and if you have a hudget to abide by, its gonna make things harder. Work out your budget, double or triple it, and wish for the best.
Plenty have done this successfully, while others have had bad luck. All you can do is be prepare for the worse and hope for the best
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gotama (02-20-2016)
11-03-2015, 09:13 AM
#10
thx for info, this would be my low cost option which would be awesome. I got a good tuner dude which can hook me up. Now all I need is to find a good kit.
Now a question: if I change the pistons and rods and ARP Studs kit, would this guarantee long life to the engine for 400WHP ? spending an extra 2k/3k for engine durability seems worthed imo. Maybe doing this would also open up new opportunities to boost the engine from 400WHP to 500WHP. I don't wanna push it too much tho, I prefer engine safety first.
What would you guys recommend ?
By the way my current upgrades are:
- exhaust motordyne TDX v2,
- JWT clutch kit - can handle over 500WHP+
- and light flywheel.
cheers
Now a question: if I change the pistons and rods and ARP Studs kit, would this guarantee long life to the engine for 400WHP ? spending an extra 2k/3k for engine durability seems worthed imo. Maybe doing this would also open up new opportunities to boost the engine from 400WHP to 500WHP. I don't wanna push it too much tho, I prefer engine safety first.
What would you guys recommend ?
By the way my current upgrades are:
- exhaust motordyne TDX v2,
- JWT clutch kit - can handle over 500WHP+
- and light flywheel.
cheers
If the engine is in a healthy state and the tune is optimal and well done, I see no problem for the engine at 400whp given you maintain it properly. It should last a good long while at that level.
Where are you located? I would find a shop experienced in the VQ. The tune is an important part of reliability.
Your parts look to be good. Here is what I would do and a few options:
-Quality kit:
This can be used, but make sure it's been maintained.
Vortech, Momentum, BP, Greddy, etc
- Fuel parts:
Deatschwerks 600cc Injectors (These are plenty big, but are the common used)
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
-Clutch/flywheel:
You already have
Exhaust:
You already have.
Tune:
Uprev dyno session
Options:
Oil Cooler kit (Z1, AAM, custom Setrab, etc)
Oil Spacer
Intake Manifold
Good tires are always important. (No point in having more power if you have no traction.)
Someone can list if I'm forgetting anything.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
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gotama (02-20-2016)
12-30-2015, 03:21 AM
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
I’ve got the forced induction query
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
INSERT INTO NISSAN.350Z (ENGINE, POWER_ADDER, FUEL_INJECTOR, FUEL_PUMP, RETURN_FUEL_SYS, ENGINE_MGMT)
FROM (SELECT ‘VQ35DE’, ‘BP_6266_SINGLE’, ‘DEATSCHWERKS_600CC’, ‘WALBRO_485’, ‘CJM_S1’, ‘PRO_EFI_128’
FROM MY350Z.VENDOR_MARKETPLACE
GROUP BY ENGINE, POWER_ADER);
I found what seems to be a decent ecu from a local distributor in malta for less than half the price: http://www.linkecu.com/N350Plus
Video with features:
I am totally newbie when It comes to ecu features and tuning stuff. What do you guys think about this ecu? The local distributor which is the guy who's gonna make the tuning for my Z said it got all the features and can do anything with it. But I preferred to run this with you guys for some expert advice.
Cheers all for viewing, comments welcome and appreciated
Thx all
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gotama (02-20-2016)
01-01-2016, 10:36 PM
#14
400whp is nothing on a stock DE, much less an HR or VHR. Just get a solid tune, and just make sure you motor is in good condition before going FI. I boosted my old 2003 Z at ~60K miles after a good leak down check and it lasted past 100K at 500 whp & tq (11.6 psi waste gate springs) before I solid it and it got parted out by the new buyer. That was on a 2003 stock DE (minus it did have Nismo cams installed in it).
Just comes down to the tune, mine had zero knock anywhere on 91 octane and it was tuned on a load bearing dyno so I had my tuner go thru everything imaginable on it. the tune was expensive but damn it was worth it. Although I don't know if you'll find a TT kit for your price range, but maybe (turbo kit + clutch + EMS + install + tune)? If you can go Greddy I'd say go with that, plenty of power potential, easily will spit out 400 at low boost which will help your cause.
Just comes down to the tune, mine had zero knock anywhere on 91 octane and it was tuned on a load bearing dyno so I had my tuner go thru everything imaginable on it. the tune was expensive but damn it was worth it. Although I don't know if you'll find a TT kit for your price range, but maybe (turbo kit + clutch + EMS + install + tune)? If you can go Greddy I'd say go with that, plenty of power potential, easily will spit out 400 at low boost which will help your cause.
Last edited by Juztin; 01-01-2016 at 10:38 PM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
01-01-2016, 11:06 PM
#15
Registered User
I can run my tt setup on my car right now, but my z with the block has 130k miles on it.
personally for me, i can boost it to 400 whp, I just prefer not to, i would rather do it the right way, that is why i bought a separate block that i am currently building and will be finished by the end of this month with all of the correct reinforcements to withstand big power reliably.
their is a saying in the boosted world. cheap fast reliable you can only have 2 out of this list.
be a man we live in the 21st century with internet, youtube, internet forums and phone numbers to call for tech support. Build your own engine.
this isn't the 1950s where if you want to build your own engine you have to take formal classes in college.....
i prefer to not have a shop build my engine. because after their 1 year warranty has passed and i accidentally blow my motor up they wont cover it that means all that money you spent a shop to build your motor goes into thin air and your stuck.
if you built it, and it breaks for whatever reason your probably smart enough to pull the motor and take everything apart to find out the problem yourself.
personally for me, i can boost it to 400 whp, I just prefer not to, i would rather do it the right way, that is why i bought a separate block that i am currently building and will be finished by the end of this month with all of the correct reinforcements to withstand big power reliably.
their is a saying in the boosted world. cheap fast reliable you can only have 2 out of this list.
be a man we live in the 21st century with internet, youtube, internet forums and phone numbers to call for tech support. Build your own engine.
this isn't the 1950s where if you want to build your own engine you have to take formal classes in college.....
i prefer to not have a shop build my engine. because after their 1 year warranty has passed and i accidentally blow my motor up they wont cover it that means all that money you spent a shop to build your motor goes into thin air and your stuck.
if you built it, and it breaks for whatever reason your probably smart enough to pull the motor and take everything apart to find out the problem yourself.
Last edited by Justin100; 01-01-2016 at 11:10 PM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-01-2016, 02:49 AM
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
nice cheers for info fellas. Ok ive finally decided.! just bought mods to improve engine breathing, (intake plenum, art pipes, tdxv2). Then ECU and a tune.
Next year my FI project begins. Saving up for a vortech sc and going for a reliable safe build 400-440 whp. Then will run my Z for a couple of years until I save cash for a whole engine upgrade block and use the same vortech sc to boost up to 650-700WHP.
Next year my FI project begins. Saving up for a vortech sc and going for a reliable safe build 400-440 whp. Then will run my Z for a couple of years until I save cash for a whole engine upgrade block and use the same vortech sc to boost up to 650-700WHP.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-03-2016, 02:09 PM
#20
From what I've seen you'll be limited. I'm not that experienced in SCs but I think the last Vortech I saw guy was using the biggest pulley and only hitting high 500s.
GTM went out of business, now Gamma, but you'll spend serious cash on their overpriced stuff.
I think Stillen has a 600-700 rated kit, maybe, but I just don't see it. (I'm not googling, you can though)
GTM went out of business, now Gamma, but you'll spend serious cash on their overpriced stuff.
I think Stillen has a 600-700 rated kit, maybe, but I just don't see it. (I'm not googling, you can though)
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gotama (02-20-2016)