BluestreamDE

Lol yea I know. Couple days back before installing the Si Blower and kit, I test fitted my friend NAbuilderZ33's Super Laps and took a pic. Looked way aggressive and I loved it, a lot better than the 18'' OEM track Rays I was using, Long story short they are mounted on my Z now I just set up a payment plan with him with a down payment, I got these for a real steal. The rears are 305s I was surprised to spin them in 2nd gear.

BluestreamDE

Car is still alive, lol. Did some street tuning with my friend and cleaned up my fuel compensation and target map a good bit. Adjusted my part throttle everywhere to around 13.2-13.5afr and open throttle to 11.2-11.3 from the 10.8 to 11.0afr i had previously. Timing is the same, 14-15° advance timing with knock showing only at the beggining of my pulls @2000-2400 with a knock strength of 300s and subsided to 0 for the whole pull on my last log. Air intake temps went from 89°F to 108° at redline on average. Feels stronger and smoother. I will try to bring it on a dyno to see where we are at now in terms of whp/tq.

BluestreamDE

Installed a 3.12 pulley now instead of the 3.33. I reduced my ignition timing by 2 degrees and increased my fuel compensation a bit after 9.72 BFS from 2000rpm to redline for a richer afr on my current map with the extra airflow/boost, we'll be installing my Meth kit and will be doing quick logs next weekend for part throttle and open throttle.

BluestreamDE

I guess the saying is true, FAST - CHEAP - RELIABLE, you can only have two.

After a lil over a month of beating on my setup I began hearing an odd noise from the rebuilt blower. Long story short I believe going to Superchargerebuild.com was a mistake. The supercharger whines like a roots style supercharger all thru the RPM range which isn't normal at all.

Getting the Vortech rebuilt thru 928 Motorsports this time. I am going with The Super-Vortech® S Rebuild with all the best bearings, seals and their signature impeller instead of the heavy *** unbalanced Si impeller Superchargerebuilds put on my Vortech. Box was shipped off today so I will be driving NA till I receive and envoice from them and receive the Blower back.

BluestreamDE

Another update to this story.

FINALLY received my Super S Rebuild Vortech from 928 Motorsports. Complete turnaround was about 10 days, waay faster than Superretardbuilds.com. The 928 impeller looks mean, it also was made with their new Hard-coat Anodized version for better corrosion resistance and durability. I held the old Superchargerrebuilds cast impeller and it felt soo heavy, I just imagined it spinning past 50k, must of felt like a dualmass flywheel completely stressing out the bearings and gearing system to work a lot harder to spin it than it needed to. I will be installing this weekend. Here are some pics.

0taku

iTrader: (5)

It's amazing what difference the 928 impeller makes.

When I drove my friends RevUp w/ 3.33. At the time I thought it was fast as hell compared to my bolt on DE.

The 928 impeller and 2.87 pulley on my new setup made his car feel like a sluggish tank. Once the rebuild is finished, I can't wait to see what my car can dish out for timing with e85. I just hope I don't max out my 1000cc.

Build is looking great, can't wait to see the numbers.

dbaz

nice mine arrives on monday.
shipped out yesterday from 928.

BluestreamDE

That must of been awesome man, good luck to you as well on your car. I cant wait to install and test her out after breaking the blower in. Everything was professionally done on it, the packaging cane in even better than I had originally sent it. Should of went with 928 the first time around instead of wasting money on that crook at Superchargerebuilds who only tried blaming me for why his halfassed ripoff rebuild went fubar.

I personally wound swap out cog pulleys first before the 2.87 to prevent belt slip with less contact space for the serpentine belt. But before I do that I would need a return system or FMU to address fueling requirements and a stronger clutch.

BluestreamDE

Nice, congrats! Post up a thread and let's see the numbers after that tune! Would love to read about it.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Belt wrap exponentially increases friction so I think you made the right choice by switching cogs rather than pulleys.
There's a formula for it, but I don't want to look it up lol

BluestreamDE

Yea my friend I bought the blower from said the same thing. The calculator is on the Vortech site, my impeller speed with stock cogs, 3.12 and Fluidampr gets me to 53,455 at the 6600 redline.

BluestreamDE

Finished installing the rebuilt 928V+ Vortech in my car today, no issues at all. Revved it to 4k while parked and it sounds healthy, and the Tial is as loud as it always is, lol.

I will need to break in the blower before redlining it and seeing how much more boost I will make. I will be data logging sometime this next week to see where I am at on my street tune and adjust as necessary.

meanz

iTrader: (23)

[QUOTE=BluestreamDE;10784155

I will need to break in the blower before redlining it and seeing how much more boost I will make. I will be data logging sometime this next week to see where I am at on my street tune and adjust as necessary.[/QUOTE]

Breaking in the blower? Is this something that 928 said to do? I've ran 4 new blowers and never heard of breaking in a blower. You should make some good power with the 928. Hope it holds together.

BluestreamDE

Carl from 928 Motorsports gave me a bunch of paperwork along with my receipt for the Super S Vortech rebuild and my blower suggesting a period of at least 50 miles and not to operate above 4k rpm until then to have the seals properly seat. I have now done this already. Blower is fine now with no issues. I won't data log till this next weekend, I am quite busy till then. From There I will find out how much boost I will be making.

BluestreamDE

Just an update.

Some bad news, yesterday my car started to struggle and die afterwards outta nowhere (would shoot up to 3k rpm then struggle under 400rpm till it stalls received two codes, P0123 and P0223. Car was fine with no issues until this happened. I replaced the throttle body with an older OEM one and no change, changed spark plugs, cleaned maf sensor. checked fuel pump, cleaned injectors, getting pressure with the fuel system at 48psi with the 320lph and no fuel return system. Problem still persists. My last idea would be the the wiring harness or coilpacks. Gonna be searching the forum for folks with similar issues and see if they had a solution Any ideas where to look would be appreciated.

Staisman

iTrader: (13)

Did you do a reset after you replaced a TB ? Also sensor of the gas pedal could be a problem because the code will appear when TB and pedal sensor not in sequence.

BluestreamDE

I cannot do the TB relearn because it says I have to be in operating temps for the procedure to go thru. Today my Z isn't even turning over so I can't even do that, I pulled out my plugs a few minutes ago after swapping out my coilpacks and it's soaked in oil, all black and wet looking at the tips only. Car was working great until this happened. I'll check on the pedal sensor with a voltmeter in a bit. Thanks.

Staisman

iTrader: (13)

I replaced TB and a pedal (u cant replace just a sensor) 2 month ago and did the reset on cold. No problems. Where did you read that it needs to be in operating temps?

BluestreamDE

The gentleman said that the vehicle had to be at around 158 degrees Fahrenheit and up in order to do it, but if you did so without doing the warm-up I will see about doing that when I troubleshoot the pedal assy and throttle body later. Thanks again.

BluestreamDE

So what I did was unplugged the battery from the car for about two hrs and it started right up, but idle still fluctuates at 400-1200rpm with -16 to-21 vaccum, high AFR at around 20.0 up to almost 60.0 when it bogs low then picks back up to 19-20.0 afr. Short term trim on both banks are pegged at 25.0, when I unplug the maf it pegs -25. I'm assuming O2s are bad even though they are connected and new? My tune has not changed and is the same.

Btw I am updating my issue on another thread so when I figure out wtf is wrong with my Z I can log it and hopefully help someone in the same boat as me.

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...verything.html

I tested the MAF sensor, Throttle body, accel pedal assy, connectors from the wire harness to these parts with a voltmeter and it all came normal 12v and 4.7-5v power and signal wire which is normal.