FI bug has bit, going Vortech
05-05-2016, 09:26 PM
#81
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The turbo kit dies have a cracked manifold, I can get a set of new manifolds with it. How well have the repaired Greddy cast manifolds held up, or should I just get the new manifolds.
05-05-2016, 10:33 PM
#82
Registered User
did you buy this kit off of b_hoss?
when i saw that guys ad I would not have bought his kit. their is too much involved with fixing all the problems with his stuff.......
its already bad enough to buy a used turbo kit but to buy a used turbo kit that needs to be fixed is more hassle than anything else.
if you were to rebuild the kit to something somewhat usable you will have more possible problems in the future for the other items to wear down......
Last edited by Justin100; 05-05-2016 at 10:37 PM.
05-06-2016, 12:19 AM
#84
05-08-2016, 02:05 AM
#86
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
theres a few things you can do to prevent cracks.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
05-08-2016, 03:17 PM
#87
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theres a few things you can do to prevent cracks.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
I could also give the false firewall I few love taps with a BFH while the motor is out for extra clearance if needed.
05-08-2016, 04:46 PM
#88
theres a few things you can do to prevent cracks.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
1. When you install, make sure the passenger side turbo and pipe are away from the false firewall. Engine Tq and rebound can cause the turbo to contact the body.
2. Go solid motor mounts if you haven't already. They are not bad in the 350z.
3. support your exhaust. A lot of members buy downpipes that do not bolt to the tranny which leaves the nearest hangars at the rear of the car and the connection at the turbo. I used some hangars at the driveshaft loop cross bar to support...rubber mounted for flex.
4. Flex pipes in your y pipe
5. light weight exhaust if you don't do number 3 above. Not SS..its heavy. Go titanium.
You can weld Cast iron back together. The welder needs to know what he is doing.
Pre heat, grind out, short weld and proper rod and you'll be good to go.
If you have a trusted welder, it should not be a problem. But I have seen far too many crap "welders" who take a pretty penny. Cast is totally something a good welder can do. So is titanium. But how many welders out there actually will do it right?
You do NOT want to have to fix that manifold again 6 months from now.
If you were local to me, I know a guy who would slay that manifold for you. But, if you don't know for sure a great welder... I wouldn't bother. Not sure how much the manifold costs from greddy, but it would probably be worth just replacing in the off chance you get a bad weld. If you don't know what to look for, you could easily get something that seems nice, but has pinholes that are just going to leak etc.
Do it right, not twice.
05-08-2016, 05:21 PM
#89
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
If you have a trusted welder, it should not be a problem. But I have seen far too many crap "welders" who take a pretty penny. Cast is totally something a good welder can do. So is titanium. But how many welders out there actually will do it right?
You do NOT want to have to fix that manifold again 6 months from now.
If you were local to me, I know a guy who would slay that manifold for you. But, if you don't know for sure a great welder... I wouldn't bother. Not sure how much the manifold costs from greddy, but it would probably be worth just replacing in the off chance you get a bad weld. If you don't know what to look for, you could easily get something that seems nice, but has pinholes that are just going to leak etc.
Do it right, not twice.
You do NOT want to have to fix that manifold again 6 months from now.
If you were local to me, I know a guy who would slay that manifold for you. But, if you don't know for sure a great welder... I wouldn't bother. Not sure how much the manifold costs from greddy, but it would probably be worth just replacing in the off chance you get a bad weld. If you don't know what to look for, you could easily get something that seems nice, but has pinholes that are just going to leak etc.
Do it right, not twice.
You are correct at the welder. I would pick someone with EXP..not a first timer. Also, if the crack is too severe to where it cannot be ground out without making 2 pieces then it may be scrap.
poly mounts will help but a BFH will help more. I could see where a used turbo housing had be rubbing on the body, polishes a spot of paint off.
Ill try to upload a pic of my exhaust hangars. Nothing pretty. My AAM dp are not braced to the tranny.
05-21-2016, 08:14 PM
#90
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Well the 18g kit I was getting, the owner decided to keep it for now. Back in the hunt for another or something comparable.
05-21-2016, 09:23 PM
#91
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^WTF?
05-22-2016, 04:47 AM
#92
New Member
05-22-2016, 05:47 AM
#94
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
There is a set of tubi manifolds in development but they will be pricey and if they do not provide any gains/flow then it will be hard to make the switch.
12-17-2016, 09:07 PM
#95
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Back to this, died out , bought a new house , time to get back to this. Found a vortech V3 kit, time to get going.
12-18-2016, 06:21 AM
#96
Registered User
Congrats on the new home! Vortech is alot easier to install and you get to keep your exhaust setup the way it is now, it will just be louder under boost. I installed mine in about 4 hrs taking my time. Good luck on the build.
12-18-2016, 06:54 AM
#97
The turbo does seem like the more ambitious way to go. The V3 seams like the way to go especially when your good with 350-400 hp. I was wondering what happened to your car. One second it's getting a turbo, the next your brakes that are worth more than my daily driver are destroyed.
12-18-2016, 07:47 AM
#98
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The turbo does seem like the more ambitious way to go. The V3 seams like the way to go especially when your good with 350-400 hp. I was wondering what happened to your car. One second it's getting a turbo, the next your brakes that are worth more than my daily driver are destroyed.
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terrasmak (12-18-2016)