Milosis

Hi guys, first post requesting some insight from the community. If im in the wrong area moderator please move me to the correct forum to help sort my issue out. Finished the Tune at Z1 Motorsports 2 weeks ago and my slave cylinder popped so im late seeing this issue because i havent been able to drive it til now

Motor has 68k
AAM competition twin turbo kit
CJ-M motorsports fuel rails - fuel return system - ID 1000cc Aero 340lph
JWT Clutch / Flywheel
Megan racing Y pipe - Agency Power Single exhaust
Osiris Uprev Tuner edition
Greddy profec boost controller
AEM wide band + Defi Boost gauge

This is an E85 tuned car - conservative tune

While approaching a red light im getting a slight smoking issue, sometimes its worse, sometimes not. Smoke appears to have a bluish tinge to it but its never thick and ranges from hardly noticeable to clearly visible. does tend to smell more like burnt oil, no clue how unburnt E85 smells. Clears up before i accelerate on the green light. Letting the car sit and idle your not seeing any smoke. The installation manual is kinda vague on these twin turbo kits when it comes to some things, things like the pcv system. Right now i have the passenger side pcv hooked up to a filter and the driver side breather tube is plumbed into the turbo intakes. I have a long line running from the passenger side into a T connecting it to the driver side and then to the driver side valve cover. Im bringing up the pcv system because i cant see where else my setup would cause an inconsistent smoking issue like this. Under load i cant see it smoking from my rear view / side view mirrors but at speed its hard to tell. Revving the car doesnt make it smoke either at idle.

I do have an idle issue that was causing the car to idle at 1500 - 2000 rpm at times but after a throttle pedal relearn and throttle valve relearn it now idles between 800 to 900, not quite like its cammed but it is very noticable.

Im pretty sure my oil return lines are correctly angled to not cause any pooling in the lines.

Any help at all would be awesome guys, id like to get the car involved in some autocrossing events but if there is something wrong I could use some help diagnosing.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

white smoke is coolant = head gaskets
blue smoke is oil = could be a few things

without being in the car when it's doing this it sounds like your turbo seals are compromised...it sounds like when your engine is under load the smoke appears...

a quick and easy would be to open one of your intake tubes and see if there is any oil residue in your intake track.

describe to us how your oil scavenge lines come out of the turbos and back into the pan?

meanz

iTrader: (23)

Remove couplers on bottom of intercooler and see how much oil is puddled up there.

jhc

Above comments are solid. Jon and Kyle know these engines inside out. I have always found them super helpful. Call Z1Motorsports also.

Milosis

The turbos are mounted closer to the bell housing so the lines run from the bottom of the turbos to the front.

Turbos are brand-new I really don't want to have to pull the motor and transmission to replace those LOL

Milosis

I'll pull the couplers* off tonight when I get home from work but take a look and see if I have oil residue

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Is your PCV valve drilled out? 2 mins to check - just remove it and see if you have just the nipple and can see through it. If it isn't you can do it in 1 minute by carefully drilling from the back in progressively larger drill bit sizes until the spring falls out. You don't want that in there as it restricts escape of crankcase vapor. That in turn could be leading to crankcase pressure and poor oil return and oil leaking out the exhaust -> blue smoke. It is most likely that, which is an easy fix at least.

If that doesn't work and you just had new turbos put on, I would check that you have the proper oil restrictors in place. Make sure you have a straight shot decline on oil return lines (gravity drains are very sensitive to kinks).

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Are you running an oil pan spacer to return oil to the pan? I had similar issues on my greddys and it went away when I tapped into my upper oil pan and discharged oil back into the pan above the oil level within the pan...Search my threads for my write up...

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Are you running an oil pan spacer to return oil to the pan? I had similar issues on my greddys and it went away when I tapped into my upper oil pan and discharged oil back into the pan above the oil level within the pan it seemed to alleviate the issue...Search my threads for my write up...

Milosis

It's weird you mention oil restrictors, the turbos came with silver npt fittings already screwed into the turbo oil feed but the oil feed line kit AAM sends has npt fittings with the size matching oil lines ment for the turbos. I removed the silver ones because I thought they weren't needed. That could really be the issue. Like I said earlier, the kit they have put together is great but the instructions have details for the HR - VHR and there are components that go on opposite sides depending on what you have. I'll look and see if they are supposed to be there.

Milosis

I'll take a look at your threads for sure, the kit did come with the oil pan spacer as well as the spacer for the oil pick up. I installed them both. My oil level is just above the high dot on my dip stick, I was thinking about bringing the level down to half and seeing if that made a difference

Milosis

I'm sorry I forgot to mention I just did this little mod before heading to work today. I drilled it out and then vented it to atmosphere. The breather hose from the turbo inlet kinks and I couldn't connect the two without buying a pre bent hose for the connection. I haven't driven on it alot to see a difference in symptoms

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

dont do that! The last thing you want is to starve your blowers and your engine of oil...

Milosis

lol i wouldnt drop it down below the add level of course, I was concerned i may have overfilled it trying to gauge how much more oil id need to add due to the spacer install. If its to high my oil return may not be functioning as they were intended and cause some back up in the housings right?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

That's exactly why I tapped into my upper oil pan...so the exit-oil had zero resistance back into the pan...the job took a few hours and set me back $30.

I would double check the double check that you dont have a kink in any of your lines -

aarrgghh

The efrs used in the aam kit have the oil restrictors built into the turbos. The inlet fitting swap ins't your issue.

Did you put the check valve they supply into the breather line from the driver side valve cover to the intake pipe? If so which way.

You can get a better drain run by ditching the aluminum drain plate and gasket with a simple npt to an fitting that goes straight into the turbo drain port. Gives you about another inch or more height to slope the lines.

FYI, I have this kit on mine and I'm currently pulling it apart to swap to my built motor.

Milosis

Sweet!! I'm thankful for everyone's input on my issue so far but even more so for your response aarrgghh, i can compare exactly with what you've got! Ok so the check valve i didn't install at all because the manual called for 2 and they only sent one. I called Z1 motorsports a few times about some of the details on the install as they've done it on a few cars and they said not to bother with the check valve at all and vent the pcv system to atmosphere. Tried calling AAM with questions and the techs were always busy with cars, which is understandable. So the check valve was meant to go in between the breather port on the drivers side valve cover and the turbo inlet pipe? The check valve has orientation arrows which i assume are air flow indicators, i didn't see much point in the install of the check valve which appears to me to be nothing more then a heavy duty pcv valve where there isn't a chance for positive air pressure to enter the engine this way.

So is there a greater point to the check valve im not getting?

aarrgghh

The instructions don't talk about it, but here's my read on the setup. You are correct, you'll never see boost from the turbos into the dr side vent line. But the block can get above zero from blow by. Should that happen the check valve will stop it from getting into the intake. The arrow should point from the intake to the block. That's how air gets in. The PVC line to the plenum pulls it out as whenever the throttle is closed that's under pretty high vacuum (I'm map sensor tuned and that gauge is on my display).

Your pcv setup should in most cases be fine. I cant go open breather for our local track without a catch can. I'm not sure your teed line to the dr side is needed, the two valve covers are connected by the line right at the front of the covers in the center, shouldn't cause any harm. Without connecting it to a vac source, drilling it out shoud help. Let us know if that got it.

Just check all the easy stuff. I'd check your lower intercooler couplers for oil, plus the main charge tube to the throttle. If those are clean and dry (mine were), thats not your oil source. Verify oil drains aren't kinked, but keep in mind the efrs are water cooled and don't flow anywhere near as much oil as an oil cooled turbo like the common greddy kits.

If that's all ok, do a compression and leak down test. Hoping that's ok for you, but you've boosted an older motor.

Question for you, you say you are conservative on e85, but I don't see a flex fuel sensor on your list. My understanding is that e85 varies a ton and one is needed for safely. We don't have e85 up here :-(

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

^ most E85 tunes don't change between E70 to E85. I know in my maps, I am "all in" after 70%.

You do not want the check valve as you have described between the driver's side valve cover vent and the turbo air intakes. The turbo air intakes generate the level of vacuum you want during all conditions (low at idle, high vacuum under boost). You want crankcase pressure to be evacuated by the turbo air intakes. In the case of the OP, the passenger side breather provides a source for fresh air ingestion [helps evacuate fuel and water vapor preferentially over the heavier oil vapor] and also as a safety in case the blow by gases are produced in excess of the ability of the turbo air intakes to evacuate (or if the line gets kinked as OP described).

Putting a large catch can in between is a good idea though to trap water and fuel vapor (especially with E85)!

I have both valve covers holes (and the central nipples) all routed to a large catch can and then two large 10 AN hoses going to each turbo intake. It works quite well.

Milosis

When I put the fuel system together, it was with the help of Jon from Z1. I outlined my goals for the car and we ironed out what we'd need to accomplish it. He didn't say I'd need a sensor for the tune so I never asked about it.

I have to say so far I've noticed no smoking issues after drilling out the pcv valve. I still need to check the lower couplers for any oil residue and I still need to drop my down pipes to check the turbine housings for any oil. I also removed the T in the breather hoses and now have the driver side breather hose pulling the vapors from the DR valve cover. Passenger side is still vented to atmosphere but I plan to hook up the breather hose on PS turbo inlet once I can buy a pre bent hose to account for the angle. For now PS breather is plugged.