Main girdle help. Modifying windage tray
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Main girdle help. Modifying windage tray
Got my main girdle today from danasty. They said the windage tray needed to be modified. Put it in my car to drop off to builder and noticed there are no whole drilled or tapped to bolt the tray to the girdle. Nor do the holes on the tray even fall on the girdle ( hole half on half off ) anyone give me an idea as to what I need to do exactly? Is this how it is and I need to drill and tap?
#3
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That's weird cause guy that placed my order said it had to be modified. Idk if it's not necessary then that's even better
#5
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Since that would be the only thing I didn't do and the hp I'm running 800 plus. For piece of mind. Absolutely I already been down the road of blowing my bottom end apart
#6
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (27)
@35reilly Most street cars are discarding the windage tray. It bolts directly in and no modifications are required without windage tray.
For a dedicated road race application I would recommend keeping it, which will require drilling and tapping the girdle to accept bolts to secure windage tray. Additionally you will have to clearance the upper oil pan to fit the windage tray since the girdle is much larger.
@jdm-v35 The billet girdle is a great idea for all builds, but becomes especially important for higher revs and higher power. It's cheap insurance so we use it on most performance builds to help keep the bottom end securely in place. I would consider it mandatory on high power / high revving builds.
For a dedicated road race application I would recommend keeping it, which will require drilling and tapping the girdle to accept bolts to secure windage tray. Additionally you will have to clearance the upper oil pan to fit the windage tray since the girdle is much larger.
@jdm-v35 The billet girdle is a great idea for all builds, but becomes especially important for higher revs and higher power. It's cheap insurance so we use it on most performance builds to help keep the bottom end securely in place. I would consider it mandatory on high power / high revving builds.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
@35reilly Most street cars are discarding the windage tray. It bolts directly in and no modifications are required without windage tray.
For a dedicated road race application I would recommend keeping it, which will require drilling and tapping the girdle to accept bolts to secure windage tray. Additionally you will have to clearance the upper oil pan to fit the windage tray since the girdle is much larger.
@jdm-v35 The billet girdle is a great idea for all builds, but becomes especially important for higher revs and higher power. It's cheap insurance so we use it on most performance builds to help keep the bottom end securely in place. I would consider it mandatory on high power / high revving builds.
For a dedicated road race application I would recommend keeping it, which will require drilling and tapping the girdle to accept bolts to secure windage tray. Additionally you will have to clearance the upper oil pan to fit the windage tray since the girdle is much larger.
@jdm-v35 The billet girdle is a great idea for all builds, but becomes especially important for higher revs and higher power. It's cheap insurance so we use it on most performance builds to help keep the bottom end securely in place. I would consider it mandatory on high power / high revving builds.
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#12
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Listen if your gonna be reving that think north of 7500 it's something to think about. I was gonna keep factory girdle but looked at it this way. With ALL THE MONEY I have wrapped up in internals and the fact that I am now running the nismo oil pump why chance it. Just get the last piece to the puzzle!!!!
#14
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#15
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How were bearing tolerances? did you check them and were they in spec? Thats the only thing I would worry about when modifying that piece. NVM just realized the main caps are separate pieces to bearing tolerances wont be affected!
ALso, what is the disadvantage to not having the windage tray? my car would be semi-daily driven
ALso, what is the disadvantage to not having the windage tray? my car would be semi-daily driven
Last edited by jdm-v35; 06-17-2016 at 08:44 AM.
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
How were bearing tolerances? did you check them and were they in spec? Thats the only thing I would worry about when modifying that piece. NVM just realized the main caps are separate pieces to bearing tolerances wont be affected!
ALso, what is the disadvantage to not having the windage tray? my car would be semi-daily driven
ALso, what is the disadvantage to not having the windage tray? my car would be semi-daily driven
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
Clearances have a window. standard then you can go by different sizes within that window. Somebody may correct me but. I went on the looser side and I'm gonna run thinker oil to make up for the looser clearance. I'm running pretty high boost tho. I take it with your compression your not boosted? As far as sleeping I would think long and hard about that. Read up cause there's a lot of negative talk about them. I was thinking about doing it but I don't want a headache with cooling issues and what not. Dude I'm not a professional at all so I may get corrected and if I'm wrong about what I'm saying and someone corrects me great. Anyway for the power you mentioned I wouldn't worry about sleeves
#19
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Thanks for the info! that makes a lot of sense. I do plan to boost again eventually. I had a procharger but it did not put down the kind of power I'm looking for and was out of potential. I may go Single turbo or vortech v7 YSi. I still havent decided.
I am just in the process of collecting parts for the build right now. gonna take it slow and find what I want. I do have the pistons though which are wiseco 96mm 11:1. I would be happy to hit 700 when all is said and done. I still need to call around for machine shops about the torque plate as well.
I am just in the process of collecting parts for the build right now. gonna take it slow and find what I want. I do have the pistons though which are wiseco 96mm 11:1. I would be happy to hit 700 when all is said and done. I still need to call around for machine shops about the torque plate as well.
#20
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info! that makes a lot of sense. I do plan to boost again eventually. I had a procharger but it did not put down the kind of power I'm looking for and was out of potential. I may go Single turbo or vortech v7 YSi. I still havent decided.
I am just in the process of collecting parts for the build right now. gonna take it slow and find what I want. I do have the pistons though which are wiseco 96mm 11:1. I would be happy to hit 700 when all is said and done. I still need to call around for machine shops about the torque plate as well.
I am just in the process of collecting parts for the build right now. gonna take it slow and find what I want. I do have the pistons though which are wiseco 96mm 11:1. I would be happy to hit 700 when all is said and done. I still need to call around for machine shops about the torque plate as well.