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Don't really have to much time to myself do to running a used car biz. ( 24/7) game. Anyway I figured I would post this to hopefully help others and guys can communicate back and forth to work out issues or get ideas. Please if you don't have anything good to say just keep it moving Thxs. So back in say 2010 I blew my stock motor on a SC. Had a engine package from a company and put a greddy TT on it. Since day one I had a issue with leaking head gaskets. Drove me nuts. Did effect anything but bothered me. Car ran great made good power.
Bout a year later I was involved in a nasty jet ski accident and had me out of the game for bout 3 years. Long story short car sat finally got on my feet guess was a dry start idk bit spun a cam. Found this out cause I took the motor out to fix head gaskets. One thing led to another and I'm doing the build again from the bottom up. Better parts and more attention to detail.
Heads leaking
Cam caps
Look close you will see the break through in the cyl wall
Motor is fully blue printed with all documents to show all sizing ect. 96mm cp Pistons. Carrillo rods. Ferrara valve train. 1mm over sized valves. ACL moly coated bearings. S7 cams. Nismo oil pump. Greddy TT 20g turbos with upgraded wheels.ect. Have new set of Greddy (( JUNK )) exhaust manifolds. Lol. Cosworth intake. Hr head gaskets with mod. Act triple Carbon clutch. I'm sure I missed some things.
One of the things I really wanted to make sure I did beside not let anything get passed over with little concern is my oil pan and returns. Since I have a billet main girdle the highest point I could weld the bungs it where it is seen. Any higher I would have interfered with the girdle. I drilled and welded 1/2 npt female bung for the return. I then drilled the front of the pan. The front of the oil feed passage to have a direct port to feed turbos. ( 1/8 npt as well as the psi port) I'm doing away with the factory oil psi since I have the aftermarket gauge. ( need to figure out how to trick sensor so dummy light doesn't come on)
Wasting a good light on the dash - can use it for something else - maybe have your Haltech close the circuit when oil PSI falls below a certain value...
Wasting a good light on the dash - can use it for something else - maybe have your Haltech close the circuit when oil PSI falls below a certain value...
Sry I'm not that great with electrical stuff. Explain what you mean please. Use for something else? What would you suggest? Don't have the haltech yet. Want to get up and running work any bugs out before I drop that kinda coin. I'm opened minded tho. Would love to hear what you suggest
Really I would like to tie the oem wiring into the aftermarket so I could use both. Use the same port aftermarket sensor to work both gauge and dummy light in simple terms, but idk where to even start with that
after the mishap you don't want to sleeve the block? I am still considering myself whether sleeving is worth it or not. It would save a lot of money not too, but maybe it would be significantly stronger. Just wondering why you didn't.
after the mishap you don't want to sleeve the block? I am still considering myself whether sleeving is worth it or not. It would save a lot of money not too, but maybe it would be significantly stronger. Just wondering why you didn't.
Read a lot of issues with sleeves on these blocks cooling issues and what not. Just didn't want the headache. If it turns out I need them or something like that I have read up on the closed deck blocks or maybe I will sleeve it idk. Part of me now wishes I did but. Idk it's together now so let's see and hopefully I won't need to do it. There are guys running higher power then I plan with no sleeves so. We'll see bud.
Cool thanks for the insight. I looked at the closed deck block too, but its just an oem block with a precision machined block guard really. The sleeves are still oem.
I know sleeves can drop, or cooling problems can happen but it seems like darton/AEBS sleeves are the strongest options. what are you power goals btw?
Cool thanks for the insight. I looked at the closed deck block too, but its just an oem block with a precision machined block guard really. The sleeves are still oem.
I know sleeves can drop, or cooling problems can happen but it seems like darton/AEBS sleeves are the strongest options. what are you power goals btw?
True. Idk I'm guessing since I was close to 600 with the last build maybe 700rwhp give or take. Idk got a long road ahead of me. Lol
to avoid leaking head gaskets make sure you take your heads to a machine shop to get them resurfaced..........and make sure they check the block piece of mind get the block decked/resurfaced also.
always get new headgaskets and whenever you remove your head for any reason you can never reuse your headgaskets period. can only be used 1 time.
07-22-2016, 04:42 AM
06 TT G35 build 2nd go around
