Built engine, 50 miles on kit and blown engine?
09-11-2016, 03:25 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Built engine, 50 miles on kit and blown engine?
Alright, I’m going to try and be as brief as possible with this explanation and expect negative criticism. Im sure the seasoned engine builders may get a good laugh.
Brief back story, I had a 03 Z with about 75k on it a couple years ago that I wanted to build the motor in for my 3rd turbo kit install. The two previous kits were rear mounts.. we won’t go there. There was NOTHING wrong with my engine when I pulled it and disassembled it, I just wanted it to be ready to be force fed with the Turbonetics front mount kit I bought. It had overheated a couple times years ago when I first bought it but other than that, it has never used any oil, smoked, etc. I am now 20 years old, which puts me at 18 when I pulled my engine. It was more of a learning experience and I wanted to see how it all worked more than anything. Me being in high school and working part time, I had extremely limited funds and was paying for everything myself, and installing everything myself. Which is why I cheaped out on critical components. That is not the purpose of this thread, not for you guys to tear me a new one because I now know what significant mistakes I have made.
I ordered CX racing forged H-Beam rods and NPR aluminum pistons and rings. I did hone my cylinder walls but that is the extent, no bore or sleeve etc.
Mistake #1 I used the rings that came with the NPR pistons. I at the time did not know too much about filing them down so I installed them on the rods and rotating assembly. I followed several service manuals and guides, everything torque to spec. The rotating assembly spun freely (with a little resistance as it should).
Mistake #2 the gasket kit I bought… at the time I didn’t know about ARP and the higher strength head studs and gaskets. I ordered a generic rebuild kit off EBAY for about 80 bucks. This included head gaskets, head studs, and every other gasket on the motor. The parts seemed to be good quality, the head gasket was even a MLS. Only reason I ordered this kit is because I knew head studs stretched and weren’t re-usable or I would have saved my old studs. Also replaced a couple small things, water pump, timing chains, etc. I didn’t touch the valves or heads.
After putting everything together she fired right up. Went through the break in procedure for about 500 miles then started to rip loose. The motor ran strong. Compression test checked out good as well (can’t remember my numbers).
Then I went ahead and put the turbo set up on. The car is tuned with Uprev and I already had a previous tune on it from my rear mount set up. Needless to say it was running very lean with the front mount, probably due to charge pipe diameter and volume. So I stayed out of boost and was awaiting a new tune. Then tragically my car was stolen. Fast forward to a month ago, I received my car back and it was in pretty rough shape. It had not been driven, It had literally sat for one full year not being touched. Checked all fluids and it started right up to get on the trailer. The oil looked like new (it was when it was taken) and the coolant was bright green.
I have been working on fixing a few boost leaks and only made a few good pulls with it running lean. When I say lean I mean lean, AFRs as lean as 14 under boost. I knew the danger. I only drove the car maybe a max of 100 miles around town boosted I then began to notice the car getting hot. I have a dashboard headunit with temp parameters and noticed I got it up to 230 F. let it cool down and topped of coolant. I have been working on it every day for the past two weeks attempting to “bleed the system of air”. When in fact it was much worse than that.
I did check the oil cap when it first started overheating and oil looked clean. I tried everything I know to bleed the coolant and followed every procedure I found online. Tried the spill proof funnel etc. Then last night at a last desparate attempt to bleed the coolant I made a couple more test drives and it wasn’t really overheating anymore as long as I was moving, but the heat was not working. I had been using the spill free funnel and thought it was normal that the coolant would bubble and spike when the throttle was pressed. I now believe that the past week that I have been driving the car, compression has leaked into my cooling system and that’s where it was all going. I then made one last pull with the car, spiked to 240 and started to miss. Didn’t throw any codes which was unusual. Checked for leaks and it then threw a evap code. Figured out the car is not missing, its just idling like crap. Loss of compression somewhere. Checked the oil cap and the most white, milky oil I have ever seen. It is literally white. My entire valve train is coated by looking through the fill neck. Smoke pouring out the tail pipe every few seconds, then the smoke stops. I was noticing some black specs of paint in my coolant when it bubbled up, which I believe to be the black paint on the head gasket I installed.
My question after this long winded story is what should I expect tomorrow when I start to tear it down. I now live in Ohio where I attend a high performance motorsports school. I don’t have access to my lift and engine tools back home in VA. I do however have access to CNC machines and engine machining in school, which I will take advantage of. Im well aware that my head gasket is trash. And I plan on buying a cometic replacements. And of course ARP studs, haven’t decided on L19 or not as budget is also a major concern now as a college student. I will have my heads machined straight again but am going to try and avoid pulling the block, as I don’t have a hoist at my apartment. Hopefully it was just a head gasket and maybe a little head lift from the cheapo studs. Would this be enough to cause really rough idle or could it be much worse? A ring? Cracked piston or even cracked block? The engine only got to 240 but hope my block isn’t warped, No idea what temps are required to warp a block. Heads ill go ahead and have machined since I can do it in class for free.
I really don’t need to be told how I had no place rebuilding an engine or anything of that nature. I used the parts I could afford at the time. I now have a slightly larger wallet and would like to go back and fix where I screwed up. Hopefully the gaskets and studs will be the only price I have to pay for my mistake. What have you guys seen in terms of head lift and gasket failure on these engines? Is that enough to cause the rough idle? The amount of smoke that erupted at just idle is what scares me the most. Can’t believe I would have a failure this large at only a few pulls at 12psi, maybe a handful of pulls.
Brief back story, I had a 03 Z with about 75k on it a couple years ago that I wanted to build the motor in for my 3rd turbo kit install. The two previous kits were rear mounts.. we won’t go there. There was NOTHING wrong with my engine when I pulled it and disassembled it, I just wanted it to be ready to be force fed with the Turbonetics front mount kit I bought. It had overheated a couple times years ago when I first bought it but other than that, it has never used any oil, smoked, etc. I am now 20 years old, which puts me at 18 when I pulled my engine. It was more of a learning experience and I wanted to see how it all worked more than anything. Me being in high school and working part time, I had extremely limited funds and was paying for everything myself, and installing everything myself. Which is why I cheaped out on critical components. That is not the purpose of this thread, not for you guys to tear me a new one because I now know what significant mistakes I have made.
I ordered CX racing forged H-Beam rods and NPR aluminum pistons and rings. I did hone my cylinder walls but that is the extent, no bore or sleeve etc.
Mistake #1 I used the rings that came with the NPR pistons. I at the time did not know too much about filing them down so I installed them on the rods and rotating assembly. I followed several service manuals and guides, everything torque to spec. The rotating assembly spun freely (with a little resistance as it should).
Mistake #2 the gasket kit I bought… at the time I didn’t know about ARP and the higher strength head studs and gaskets. I ordered a generic rebuild kit off EBAY for about 80 bucks. This included head gaskets, head studs, and every other gasket on the motor. The parts seemed to be good quality, the head gasket was even a MLS. Only reason I ordered this kit is because I knew head studs stretched and weren’t re-usable or I would have saved my old studs. Also replaced a couple small things, water pump, timing chains, etc. I didn’t touch the valves or heads.
After putting everything together she fired right up. Went through the break in procedure for about 500 miles then started to rip loose. The motor ran strong. Compression test checked out good as well (can’t remember my numbers).
Then I went ahead and put the turbo set up on. The car is tuned with Uprev and I already had a previous tune on it from my rear mount set up. Needless to say it was running very lean with the front mount, probably due to charge pipe diameter and volume. So I stayed out of boost and was awaiting a new tune. Then tragically my car was stolen. Fast forward to a month ago, I received my car back and it was in pretty rough shape. It had not been driven, It had literally sat for one full year not being touched. Checked all fluids and it started right up to get on the trailer. The oil looked like new (it was when it was taken) and the coolant was bright green.
I have been working on fixing a few boost leaks and only made a few good pulls with it running lean. When I say lean I mean lean, AFRs as lean as 14 under boost. I knew the danger. I only drove the car maybe a max of 100 miles around town boosted I then began to notice the car getting hot. I have a dashboard headunit with temp parameters and noticed I got it up to 230 F. let it cool down and topped of coolant. I have been working on it every day for the past two weeks attempting to “bleed the system of air”. When in fact it was much worse than that.
I did check the oil cap when it first started overheating and oil looked clean. I tried everything I know to bleed the coolant and followed every procedure I found online. Tried the spill proof funnel etc. Then last night at a last desparate attempt to bleed the coolant I made a couple more test drives and it wasn’t really overheating anymore as long as I was moving, but the heat was not working. I had been using the spill free funnel and thought it was normal that the coolant would bubble and spike when the throttle was pressed. I now believe that the past week that I have been driving the car, compression has leaked into my cooling system and that’s where it was all going. I then made one last pull with the car, spiked to 240 and started to miss. Didn’t throw any codes which was unusual. Checked for leaks and it then threw a evap code. Figured out the car is not missing, its just idling like crap. Loss of compression somewhere. Checked the oil cap and the most white, milky oil I have ever seen. It is literally white. My entire valve train is coated by looking through the fill neck. Smoke pouring out the tail pipe every few seconds, then the smoke stops. I was noticing some black specs of paint in my coolant when it bubbled up, which I believe to be the black paint on the head gasket I installed.
My question after this long winded story is what should I expect tomorrow when I start to tear it down. I now live in Ohio where I attend a high performance motorsports school. I don’t have access to my lift and engine tools back home in VA. I do however have access to CNC machines and engine machining in school, which I will take advantage of. Im well aware that my head gasket is trash. And I plan on buying a cometic replacements. And of course ARP studs, haven’t decided on L19 or not as budget is also a major concern now as a college student. I will have my heads machined straight again but am going to try and avoid pulling the block, as I don’t have a hoist at my apartment. Hopefully it was just a head gasket and maybe a little head lift from the cheapo studs. Would this be enough to cause really rough idle or could it be much worse? A ring? Cracked piston or even cracked block? The engine only got to 240 but hope my block isn’t warped, No idea what temps are required to warp a block. Heads ill go ahead and have machined since I can do it in class for free.
I really don’t need to be told how I had no place rebuilding an engine or anything of that nature. I used the parts I could afford at the time. I now have a slightly larger wallet and would like to go back and fix where I screwed up. Hopefully the gaskets and studs will be the only price I have to pay for my mistake. What have you guys seen in terms of head lift and gasket failure on these engines? Is that enough to cause the rough idle? The amount of smoke that erupted at just idle is what scares me the most. Can’t believe I would have a failure this large at only a few pulls at 12psi, maybe a handful of pulls.
Last edited by Speednz; 09-12-2016 at 09:10 PM.
09-11-2016, 03:51 PM
#2
The proper thing to do would be rebuild the whole thing at this point. You rebuilt it with questionable quality rods and lower than stock quality pistons and if it was not seeing boost it would be fine for daily. I would not run boost on that setup nor trust it at all.
Also you will need to retune specifically for your new kit. The tune may be close enough to function, but with components like that any wrong tuning may be the end.
That said you can probably get away with new studs and gasket to just get it working.
Also you will need to retune specifically for your new kit. The tune may be close enough to function, but with components like that any wrong tuning may be the end.
That said you can probably get away with new studs and gasket to just get it working.
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Speednz (09-12-2016)
09-12-2016, 05:50 AM
#3
Registered User
Clearly it's got a decent water leak into the oil which is a bad sign
I would want to inspect the main bearings as well as everything else
You need to tear it down and find the failure point(s)
Pointless to second guess what went wrong
You really do need to pull those pistons and gap the rings
Otherwise under boost/heat in the future the ring will break the piston edge off above the ring
I would want to inspect the main bearings as well as everything else
You need to tear it down and find the failure point(s)
Pointless to second guess what went wrong
You really do need to pull those pistons and gap the rings
Otherwise under boost/heat in the future the ring will break the piston edge off above the ring
09-12-2016, 06:01 AM
#4
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
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I didn't even know those brands made pistons and rods.
09-12-2016, 06:14 AM
#5
I didnt know either. I looked it up and cxracing sells rods for 250. The pistons are not forged though, they look to be oem replacements. So this build is basically built to oem with questionable rods. You would probably be best pulling the whole thing and getting everything checked at a machine shop.
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BluestreamDE (09-12-2016)
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09-12-2016, 12:14 PM
#8
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^OP...sounds like you have learned your lesson...(well, lessons) and it seems like you've been humbled by this experience.
I'll hold my criticism as it's obvious what you've done wrong. I think your head is pointed the right direction and you've made some very-avoidable mistakes I'll offer a little insight you may find helpful for your future build...
(At some point in time JDM-V35 will tell you 'buy it nice or buy it twice')
First thing ... go back to your post and put your post in paragraphs and/or break it up...it's damn near impossible to read how you have it.
I commend you that you are doing this on your own and you are in school for the industry and you're treating this as a learning experience...
Look into Corky Bell's Maximum Boost ... it's a great read and you'll learn quite a bit. Also check out high performance academy dot com - look into a membership and start reading their blogs, forum and webinars - well worth the money.
Don't be in such a hurry - source the right parts and be patient...
Definitely opt for the L19 studs... a better product and they are reusable...
Buying cut-rate headgaskets was a mistake...I run OEM headgaskets on my build and I am a firm believe that the best parts will not save you from a sh!tty tune and you get what you pay for...
quite possibly your biggest mistake was re-using the tune...I don't think your engine exploded because you were running lean (14:1 is essentially optimal) ... back in the day I ran my car hard at 18:1 because my ATI procharger tune was junk...an engine is very forgiving of unfavorable air-fuel-ratios ... you popped your engine because your ignition timing was bad...next time go get a professional tune.
I get nervous when my car passes 210* degrees! but 240*! dang man...no way you should have run your car past 215*
I'd also remove your nitrous...if 12psi is causing issues than 12psi + nitrous will be problematic...
Start fresh...if any of this is over your head put your pride on the shelf and get guidance from someone that knows...
machine the heads
check the block for warpage
buy quality name brand parts - I'd buy used quality parts from respected members on this site before I bought new knock-off parts off the internet
have your turbo rebuilt
replace any diaphragms in your waste gate and blow off valve
add an oil cooler
get AFR feedback via a wideband
I'll hold my criticism as it's obvious what you've done wrong. I think your head is pointed the right direction and you've made some very-avoidable mistakes I'll offer a little insight you may find helpful for your future build...
(At some point in time JDM-V35 will tell you 'buy it nice or buy it twice')
First thing ... go back to your post and put your post in paragraphs and/or break it up...it's damn near impossible to read how you have it.
I commend you that you are doing this on your own and you are in school for the industry and you're treating this as a learning experience...
Look into Corky Bell's Maximum Boost ... it's a great read and you'll learn quite a bit. Also check out high performance academy dot com - look into a membership and start reading their blogs, forum and webinars - well worth the money.
Don't be in such a hurry - source the right parts and be patient...
Definitely opt for the L19 studs... a better product and they are reusable...
Buying cut-rate headgaskets was a mistake...I run OEM headgaskets on my build and I am a firm believe that the best parts will not save you from a sh!tty tune and you get what you pay for...
quite possibly your biggest mistake was re-using the tune...I don't think your engine exploded because you were running lean (14:1 is essentially optimal) ... back in the day I ran my car hard at 18:1 because my ATI procharger tune was junk...an engine is very forgiving of unfavorable air-fuel-ratios ... you popped your engine because your ignition timing was bad...next time go get a professional tune.
I get nervous when my car passes 210* degrees! but 240*! dang man...no way you should have run your car past 215*
I'd also remove your nitrous...if 12psi is causing issues than 12psi + nitrous will be problematic...
Start fresh...if any of this is over your head put your pride on the shelf and get guidance from someone that knows...
machine the heads
check the block for warpage
buy quality name brand parts - I'd buy used quality parts from respected members on this site before I bought new knock-off parts off the internet
have your turbo rebuilt
replace any diaphragms in your waste gate and blow off valve
add an oil cooler
get AFR feedback via a wideband
Last edited by bealljk; 09-12-2016 at 01:21 PM.
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Speednz (09-12-2016)
09-12-2016, 09:17 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your insight and advice. Especially bealljk, also I will absolutely look into the academy and order the book. First, because I'm getting ready to start adding parts to my cart, you recommend nissan Head gaskets for a built motor? I mean I'd believe you, I've just always read of people using cometic, hks, etc.
Today I towed it to a storage unit and drained coolant and oil, then topped off with fresh oil. My thinking behind this was that the walls are coated with water and I didn't want to risk it becoming siezed.. and it was. Just clicked. But after a couple turns of the key it turned over. I only ran it for a couple seconds In attempting to get the oil pump to spray some oil on the walls and valves etc. But I will note that in that few seconds it actually idled like normal without the violence it had two days ago. No abnormal noises. Cut her off and started the tear down, Got down to the heads today and plan to have the heads off and block exposed tomorrow.
The nitrous kit is still in the car from before I even had rebuilt the motor the first time. I only sprayed 3 times and decided I wanted to turbo it again. I have looked into and read up on a pressure switch that I could wire to my manifold, which would deactivate the nitrous at a set psi. I know several turbo cars use nitrous at the line to help build boost with no load. But I was planning on using it to help me get to full boost then cut off while moving. Would this be such a bad idea if I could get it properly tuned? This obviously woundnt be my main map on uprev. Or does that not sound safe at all?
I'm hoping that 240 degrees was only high enough to possibly warp my heads. I will deck them here at school but I didn't plan on doing anything else to the block, other than honing the cylinders again. Of course I will check it though. Unless you think I should order pistons bored over and machine the block?
I do have a wideband which is how i know im slightly lean. I also have a new oil cooler I was getting ready to install, but the thermostatic plate hasn't come in yet. Im going to start looking at buying new forged rods and pistons, and I believe I should replace crank bearings while I'm in there, oem oil pump (HR/ Rev up), and oem water pump. And if I'm having my heads machined, I believe I should go ahead and upgrade valve train? I'd like to keep my stock cams though.
Thanks again you all for your help, I know I'm not the model engine builder or forum poster. But I am a twenty year old that has to pay for college himself and his car is not funded by parents. I have hundreds and hundreds of hours into this car, I bought it as a empty shell a couple years ago and have completely assembled the car from scratch with a couple parts cars.
Today I towed it to a storage unit and drained coolant and oil, then topped off with fresh oil. My thinking behind this was that the walls are coated with water and I didn't want to risk it becoming siezed.. and it was. Just clicked. But after a couple turns of the key it turned over. I only ran it for a couple seconds In attempting to get the oil pump to spray some oil on the walls and valves etc. But I will note that in that few seconds it actually idled like normal without the violence it had two days ago. No abnormal noises. Cut her off and started the tear down, Got down to the heads today and plan to have the heads off and block exposed tomorrow.
The nitrous kit is still in the car from before I even had rebuilt the motor the first time. I only sprayed 3 times and decided I wanted to turbo it again. I have looked into and read up on a pressure switch that I could wire to my manifold, which would deactivate the nitrous at a set psi. I know several turbo cars use nitrous at the line to help build boost with no load. But I was planning on using it to help me get to full boost then cut off while moving. Would this be such a bad idea if I could get it properly tuned? This obviously woundnt be my main map on uprev. Or does that not sound safe at all?
I'm hoping that 240 degrees was only high enough to possibly warp my heads. I will deck them here at school but I didn't plan on doing anything else to the block, other than honing the cylinders again. Of course I will check it though. Unless you think I should order pistons bored over and machine the block?
I do have a wideband which is how i know im slightly lean. I also have a new oil cooler I was getting ready to install, but the thermostatic plate hasn't come in yet. Im going to start looking at buying new forged rods and pistons, and I believe I should replace crank bearings while I'm in there, oem oil pump (HR/ Rev up), and oem water pump. And if I'm having my heads machined, I believe I should go ahead and upgrade valve train? I'd like to keep my stock cams though.
Thanks again you all for your help, I know I'm not the model engine builder or forum poster. But I am a twenty year old that has to pay for college himself and his car is not funded by parents. I have hundreds and hundreds of hours into this car, I bought it as a empty shell a couple years ago and have completely assembled the car from scratch with a couple parts cars.
09-13-2016, 04:42 PM
#11
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
only being a d!ck to be real...dont get your feelbads hurt...
They have some free material to give you a flavor of what they offer - but their content is legit.
Dont over think it (other than don't buy an unbranded head gasket). I'm probably the only person that has a built engine with a nissan head gasket. But I'm also know that the best head gasket wont save you from a bad tune - dont focus so much on the best head gasket but rather the best tune and best head studs...
take your time, be extremely organized, read the FSM multiple times before, during and after your tasks.
dude - take the nitrous off and sell it...you're a middle school kid trying to do college calculus ... nitrous is way above your pay grade...keep the nitrous off the car until you've run turbo for 2 years w/o any problems...
this is a horrible idea...take the bottle off, sell it and put the money towards your build...
hoping? what are you president obama? Dont hope for anything! be 100% sure...you pushed your system far above it's normal operating range and you're 'hoping' its gonna be ok? If I was ready to sink the amount of money required to do a turbo right I'd just throw the engine away and start over...
oooppppppppsssssss...this is one expensive mistake...
probably a priority...how much time did you save...hundreds and hundreds of hours!!!
were all 100% aware of this...
point being? we were all college students and no one here has parents that funded their builds...
sounds like you are starting over from scratch again...
They have some free material to give you a flavor of what they offer - but their content is legit.
oooppppppppsssssss...this is one expensive mistake...
probably a priority...how much time did you save...hundreds and hundreds of hours!!!
were all 100% aware of this...
sounds like you are starting over from scratch again...
09-13-2016, 10:08 PM
#12
I would just consider getting eagle or manley rods and have them checked properly, put loose rod and main bearings in, get a good wrist pin, and just run stock pistons. Set the ring gap to be loose. It would be a great way to save money. Would obviously have higher comp than ideal, and the pistons wouldn't be the strongest, but at least you could run 450whp and not have to worry about anything popping. You could even use some HR head studs, and HR head gasket for that power level. The only thing that would be important is your fuel; getting quality fuel. You could remedy that by running a water meth kit.
09-15-2016, 03:40 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm about to place an order for wiseco pistons 8:8:1, eagle rods, L19 studs, cometic head gaskets, oem gasket kit, ACL race bearing set, oem oil pump, oem timing Chain and guides. I think that will be a good start for parts.
The heads are off now and don't look too bad, gaskets are gone.. obviously going to have the heads machined ando haven't decided if I can afford to upgrade the valvetrain. If I can do it free here at school, I may radius cut the valves and go oversized.
One thing I will mention is that after inspecting my cylinder walls today, I noticed cylinder 4 was out of the ordinary. Since the engine only has ~750 miles on it, I can still see the cross Hatch pattern I set on all cylinder walls but 4. Wall number 4 is significantly darker than the rest and has splotches of lighter tint. Seems to have gotten hottest and maybe baked. I have not taken the pistons and rods out to inspect the rings and bearings yet.
The heads are off now and don't look too bad, gaskets are gone.. obviously going to have the heads machined ando haven't decided if I can afford to upgrade the valvetrain. If I can do it free here at school, I may radius cut the valves and go oversized.
One thing I will mention is that after inspecting my cylinder walls today, I noticed cylinder 4 was out of the ordinary. Since the engine only has ~750 miles on it, I can still see the cross Hatch pattern I set on all cylinder walls but 4. Wall number 4 is significantly darker than the rest and has splotches of lighter tint. Seems to have gotten hottest and maybe baked. I have not taken the pistons and rods out to inspect the rings and bearings yet.
09-16-2016, 08:22 AM
#15
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^good point...
did you get the 'rev-up' oil pump?
I'd wait on the head work until your block/internals are good and you have a few thousand (if not 10k miles on them). Take baby-steps ... once you are 100% confident in the engine with OEM heads/cams/components then look into the headwork...in the meantime I'd save up cash for the parts ... and you never know who's gonna have a set of killer heads theyre looking to sell.
start a build thread and document your progress -
did you get the 'rev-up' oil pump?
I'd wait on the head work until your block/internals are good and you have a few thousand (if not 10k miles on them). Take baby-steps ... once you are 100% confident in the engine with OEM heads/cams/components then look into the headwork...in the meantime I'd save up cash for the parts ... and you never know who's gonna have a set of killer heads theyre looking to sell.
start a build thread and document your progress -
09-18-2016, 03:11 AM
#16
You really could skip the head work. I would consider rev up cams before I cut into the heads. Rev up cams have a bit more lift, and duration than the standard DE's and are real cheap if you can get ahold of some.
But if you want to DIY the heads, and you know how to do it, then go ahead.
But if you want to DIY the heads, and you know how to do it, then go ahead.
09-18-2016, 07:45 AM
#17
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You really could skip the head work. I would consider rev up cams before I cut into the heads. Rev up cams have a bit more lift, and duration than the standard DE's and are real cheap if you can get ahold of some.
But if you want to DIY the heads, and you know how to do it, then go ahead.
But if you want to DIY the heads, and you know how to do it, then go ahead.
09-18-2016, 12:28 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
MartinZ,
Thank you will do.
I will be ordering the rev up oil pump
I have already disassembled my heads and plan to take them to my machine shop (school) in the morning. Im still working on disassembling my rotating assembly and will take the block there to have that checked as well.
Rev up cams? huh, i have not heard of anyone doing that before. If that would work with my new piston set up i may have to look for a set. That would be an awesome alternative since a set of cams for these cars are outrageously priced for a slightly raised lobe.
Thank you will do.
I will be ordering the rev up oil pump
I have already disassembled my heads and plan to take them to my machine shop (school) in the morning. Im still working on disassembling my rotating assembly and will take the block there to have that checked as well.
Rev up cams? huh, i have not heard of anyone doing that before. If that would work with my new piston set up i may have to look for a set. That would be an awesome alternative since a set of cams for these cars are outrageously priced for a slightly raised lobe.
09-18-2016, 12:35 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
I will take pictures of my cylinder walls tonight, the one that has rings around the middle and discoloration really has me worried. I am trying to get a hold of a digital caliper to try and get a reading. Im assuming this could be a failed ring? Re Honing should cure this but i should have the capability to machine the block if need be.
Also i did find which cavity the pressure was leaking into the coolant. Whilst observing the block surface i noticed that there was machining done on two of the water jackets. I had not known of the hr gasket mod on the blocks when i did my previous build, But this immediately stood out to me this time that this block has previously been taken apart! This amazed me as i bought it with only 70k on the car that was 100% stock. Of course on my previous build with the crappy head gaskets i used the DE head gasket, would this cause failure if the block has been machined for the HR gasket?
After some further reading, i believe i am going to proceed with an HR gasket vs the cometic gasket.
Also i did find which cavity the pressure was leaking into the coolant. Whilst observing the block surface i noticed that there was machining done on two of the water jackets. I had not known of the hr gasket mod on the blocks when i did my previous build, But this immediately stood out to me this time that this block has previously been taken apart! This amazed me as i bought it with only 70k on the car that was 100% stock. Of course on my previous build with the crappy head gaskets i used the DE head gasket, would this cause failure if the block has been machined for the HR gasket?
After some further reading, i believe i am going to proceed with an HR gasket vs the cometic gasket.
Last edited by Speednz; 09-18-2016 at 12:36 PM.