Left Bank Vs Right Bank AFRs
#22
Well this probably didn't help my AFR's between the banks.
Also I'm working on getting my AFR's to 14.7, I managed to get it from 10.2'ish to 12's by changing my base fuel to 50% or so where its currently idling at in the map.
I have a lot more reading to do but I think I can get this damn to idle correctly....I hope so atleast
Also I'm working on getting my AFR's to 14.7, I managed to get it from 10.2'ish to 12's by changing my base fuel to 50% or so where its currently idling at in the map.
I have a lot more reading to do but I think I can get this damn to idle correctly....I hope so atleast
#23
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^I would reduce your load columns...I think I run maybe 3 columns for vacuum, a 0.0 and maybe 4 columns for boost(one which is 30psi, which if I hit 30psi I have bigger problems)...additionally I run 500 RPM increments with the exception of 1250rpm to assist with my idle...
let the haltech interpolate between values...
let the haltech interpolate between values...
Last edited by bealljk; 09-22-2016 at 07:17 PM.
#25
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
yeah, like I said - I dropped one in at 1250 to help with idle...
#26
Is there anyway to increase my idle to 1000'ish. It runs fine if it stays close to 1k but once it starts to idle down to 700 it starts to hunt then die.
Also as soon as i get it all squared away to a 14.7 idle and shut it off my afrs are no longer setting at 14.7 they are anywhere between 11-13.
Also as soon as i get it all squared away to a 14.7 idle and shut it off my afrs are no longer setting at 14.7 they are anywhere between 11-13.
#29
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
You can 'play' with your fuel your idle range to achieve a 1000rpm idle ... but no direct way of doing it...
did you put a hole in your throttle body butterfly valve plate? seeing that theres no idle control air solenoid it may be something to look in to.
did you put a hole in your throttle body butterfly valve plate? seeing that theres no idle control air solenoid it may be something to look in to.
#30
So I went to take it out last night to mess with some load AFRs and as soon as I gave it gas to drive down the road one bank stayed at 10-11 and the other worked its way up to 18-19 so I had to idle it around the block back to the house.
Went this morning to see WTF is going on and I have no clue, then wind caught my hood and ripped it up ruining another set of hood hinges and messing up my front fenders even more....IM SO SICK AND TIRED OF THIS CAR!!!!
#31
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^hmmmm...
doubled check your tables to make sure your 18:1 bank is setup right ... are you data logging these runs?
hang in there...I'm on that same brainwave...I can't believe I screwed up my waste gates hose lines...
doubled check your tables to make sure your 18:1 bank is setup right ... are you data logging these runs?
hang in there...I'm on that same brainwave...I can't believe I screwed up my waste gates hose lines...
#32
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
just stop for a damn minute and answer these questions:
Are you using the haltech to do Wideband O2 corrections?
Are you running a wideband to each bank of the exhaust and running the signals back to the Haltech?
Did you touch your Injector or Coil Pack wiring? Remove clips ect? Did you verify that all clips are back where they should be?
Your car has the classic symptom of having the o2 sensor feedback swapped from bank to bank. One goes lean, the other rich because the ECU is reading the wrong information for a given bank.
Feel free to email me your map and Ill give it a once over.
Datlogging is easy! you can use your PC to record all the dash displays into an excel file for review. You can review inside of the ECU manager or in the Data Log Viewer.
You can also setup onboard datalogging but its not as useful.
Are you using the haltech to do Wideband O2 corrections?
Are you running a wideband to each bank of the exhaust and running the signals back to the Haltech?
Did you touch your Injector or Coil Pack wiring? Remove clips ect? Did you verify that all clips are back where they should be?
Your car has the classic symptom of having the o2 sensor feedback swapped from bank to bank. One goes lean, the other rich because the ECU is reading the wrong information for a given bank.
Feel free to email me your map and Ill give it a once over.
Datlogging is easy! you can use your PC to record all the dash displays into an excel file for review. You can review inside of the ECU manager or in the Data Log Viewer.
You can also setup onboard datalogging but its not as useful.
#33
just stop for a damn minute and answer these questions:
Are you using the haltech to do Wideband O2 corrections?
Are you running a wideband to each bank of the exhaust and running the signals back to the Haltech?Im running a sensor to each bank, im using a DLG-1 and then using the 5v output to the Haltech
Did you touch your Injector or Coil Pack wiring? Remove clips ect? Did you verify that all clips are back where they should be? Im not having any misfires or nothing crazy, but i have double checked all my connections.
Your car has the classic symptom of having the o2 sensor feedback swapped from bank to bank. One goes lean, the other rich because the ECU is reading the wrong information for a given bank. im not using the computer to look at the afrs yet just the guage, but i do know i have the wires crossed going to the ecu, im going to fix that tonight.
Feel free to email me your map and Ill give it a once over.
Datlogging is easy! you can use your PC to record all the dash displays into an excel file for review. You can review inside of the ECU manager or in the Data Log Viewer.
You can also setup onboard datalogging but its not as useful. I coudnt figure out how to get it to data log until this morning, but every time i hit F6 it just mutes my computer and i have no idea how to chane the command.
Are you using the haltech to do Wideband O2 corrections?
Are you running a wideband to each bank of the exhaust and running the signals back to the Haltech?Im running a sensor to each bank, im using a DLG-1 and then using the 5v output to the Haltech
Did you touch your Injector or Coil Pack wiring? Remove clips ect? Did you verify that all clips are back where they should be? Im not having any misfires or nothing crazy, but i have double checked all my connections.
Your car has the classic symptom of having the o2 sensor feedback swapped from bank to bank. One goes lean, the other rich because the ECU is reading the wrong information for a given bank. im not using the computer to look at the afrs yet just the guage, but i do know i have the wires crossed going to the ecu, im going to fix that tonight.
Feel free to email me your map and Ill give it a once over.
Datlogging is easy! you can use your PC to record all the dash displays into an excel file for review. You can review inside of the ECU manager or in the Data Log Viewer.
You can also setup onboard datalogging but its not as useful. I coudnt figure out how to get it to data log until this morning, but every time i hit F6 it just mutes my computer and i have no idea how to chane the command.
#34
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
"im not using the computer to look at the afrs yet just the guage, but i do know i have the wires crossed going to the ecu, im going to fix that tonight. "
theres your problem right there. Haltech is doing bank to bank corrections.
I use ECU manager and just click record with my mouse. no short keys.
theres your problem right there. Haltech is doing bank to bank corrections.
I use ECU manager and just click record with my mouse. no short keys.
#35
May be hard to understand sorry in advance!
So in order to get a wideband signal to the Redbox i had to cut the stock wideband imput to the haltech since it cant use the stock wideband signal.
So the DLG comes with two wide band controllers each one having its own 5v output signal, so i wired them to the cut haltech harness.
So after watching my laptop screen this morning i noticed i wired them backwards and the 5v line for the bank that is leaning out i think got disconnected from my ECU since it stays at 8.0-8.3 (0.0-0.2 volts)
Im going to rip the dash apart again :-( to see if i can get them all squared away and see if it helps anything.
So in order to get a wideband signal to the Redbox i had to cut the stock wideband imput to the haltech since it cant use the stock wideband signal.
So the DLG comes with two wide band controllers each one having its own 5v output signal, so i wired them to the cut haltech harness.
So after watching my laptop screen this morning i noticed i wired them backwards and the 5v line for the bank that is leaning out i think got disconnected from my ECU since it stays at 8.0-8.3 (0.0-0.2 volts)
Im going to rip the dash apart again :-( to see if i can get them all squared away and see if it helps anything.
#37
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
connect to ECU to get the record options.
Easy check is to disconnect one sensor. It should stay at 10.00 or so. The other will heat up to 19.99. Make sure you have the banks right.
Turn off your wideband corrections in your setup until you get this fixed.
Easy check is to disconnect one sensor. It should stay at 10.00 or so. The other will heat up to 19.99. Make sure you have the banks right.
Turn off your wideband corrections in your setup until you get this fixed.
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bthezman
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