2004 ivory pearl, undergoing a vk56 swap
#22
New Member
Thread Starter
There was a bunch of interest when I was talking in the firewall remove thread and now none. So I was curious. Not mad. It would be easier not to post anything or worry.
#23
New Member
Sorry been really busy lately. If I remember correctly, used a pitman arm seperater.. the one that looks like a C jaw. Only works if the cv axles are out of the way, which if I remember correctly yours are out.
#24
New Member
Thread Starter
So after about 6 weeks of waiting, because they are built to order, I finally got my motor and trans mounts.
THANK YOU MCKINNEY MOTORSPORTS!!!
Ok, so first problem I have run into, not a huge deal, but kinda wondering how this happened. The quality of these mounts are incredible, the welds are super tight and clean. They somehow managed to under size the holes drilled for the mounting bolts. I had to redrill to 1/2, which was still a litte tight but worked out just fine.
Second problem, which I did not see posted on there website or on Kados M20 motorsport build thread was this little guy right here.
While the mount does go under this fitting. the piping is bent straight down into the mount so I now have to cut and flare this piece or attempt to find a fitting for a new line.
THANK YOU MCKINNEY MOTORSPORTS!!!
Ok, so first problem I have run into, not a huge deal, but kinda wondering how this happened. The quality of these mounts are incredible, the welds are super tight and clean. They somehow managed to under size the holes drilled for the mounting bolts. I had to redrill to 1/2, which was still a litte tight but worked out just fine.
Second problem, which I did not see posted on there website or on Kados M20 motorsport build thread was this little guy right here.
While the mount does go under this fitting. the piping is bent straight down into the mount so I now have to cut and flare this piece or attempt to find a fitting for a new line.
The following 2 users liked this post by quickdiversion:
Rick*K (05-26-2020),
rustyschopshop (08-11-2016)
#27
Looking good man! You should share this over in the VK Nation FB page. There are a couple 350/g35 away guys on there we'll as other vehicles. You will probably get some great feedback from there, might even pull in a few of the guys from MA-Motorsports and Nick from 5523 Motorsports for feed back and comments out general interest.
#28
New Member
Thread Starter
That's not a bad idea.
I don't even have a facebook for myself.
Maybe I will create one just for the car.
Thank you.
I have been fighting with the rear subframe bushings and they are killing me. they were on fire for an hour and wouldn't come out, drilled a ton, still wouldn't come out. I'm just taking it to a shop to get them out. This is annoying. I want to have the rear all assemble in 2 weeks to I can start motor prep.
I don't even have a facebook for myself.
Maybe I will create one just for the car.
Thank you.
I have been fighting with the rear subframe bushings and they are killing me. they were on fire for an hour and wouldn't come out, drilled a ton, still wouldn't come out. I'm just taking it to a shop to get them out. This is annoying. I want to have the rear all assemble in 2 weeks to I can start motor prep.
#30
New Member
I used a hole saw and drill them from both sides, then cut the metal bushing rings with a sawzall. Just go slow with the saw so as to not overcut. Once you cut through it will grab the blade and shake the saw. Tap the ring out with a hammer and punch, all set. Took me about 2 hours to do mine in the driveway on jackstands.
#31
New Member
Thread Starter
yeah I wish I could do that, the problem is I have shady neighbors and I am not supposed to be working on my car in my garage. haha yeah and I am doing a vk swap. lol but I get nervous about being ratted out.
#32
New Member
I wouldn't think with the work you are doing that a sawzall and drill would make anymore noise, yet I do understand. HOA or whatever you are facing in your neighborhood sucks. One reason I recently bought my house where I live. Much older neighborhood with hardly any restrictions. Either way I hope you get it straightened out.
The following users liked this post:
quickdiversion (08-26-2016)
#33
New Member
Thread Starter
The saw zaw tends to rattle all the metal and bounce **** around, the drill not so much, but it is cordless and has a thermo-coupler to prevent over heat damage, so it turns off after a few really hard bind ups and working super hard for 15 minutes straight.
#35
New Member
Thread Starter
so after way to much review and picking and choosing....
Here is every nut and bolt for all suspensions arms, subframe nuts, subframe stay bolts, "M" member bolts, fuel tank shield nuts and bolts, and rear pin stay bolts.
Had to tap out the last bolt hole for the driver side motor mount.
And last but not least current goodie.
The beauty of buying parts from the dessert areas of our country to replace parts that spend 200+k miles on the NE coast.
Here is every nut and bolt for all suspensions arms, subframe nuts, subframe stay bolts, "M" member bolts, fuel tank shield nuts and bolts, and rear pin stay bolts.
Had to tap out the last bolt hole for the driver side motor mount.
And last but not least current goodie.
The beauty of buying parts from the dessert areas of our country to replace parts that spend 200+k miles on the NE coast.
The following 2 users liked this post by quickdiversion:
Rick*K (05-26-2020),
rustyschopshop (08-26-2016)
#36
New Member
Thread Starter
everytime I work on my car I have to completely pick up, sweep, clean and re-organized.
Its so time consuming to do even small stuff, and its sooooo damn hot
Its so time consuming to do even small stuff, and its sooooo damn hot
#37
Trust me the pickup and clean up sucks, but the organized chaos you come back to its so stress relieving vs digging thru a messy/garage for that one tool you need for 5 seconds that take 30 minutes find