Review: Cosworth Intake Manifold vs Motordyne
03-27-2010, 07:29 PM
#1
Review: Cosworth Intake Manifold vs Motordyne
Even though many users have previously posted about the Cosworth Intake Plenum not performing well on non-FI car, no one has really done a good before and after test. So a few months back I took the plunge and shelled out the premium to get one to hopefully gain some power over my Motordyne 5/16th and MREV2.
As expected from cosworth and any premium items, Build quality, packaging, and looks were top notch.
Installation of the unit was straight forward, other than three things.
1. My box didn't come with manual so I had to get one faxed from the vendor.
2. Installing the gasket for the carbon cap is really a pain in the butt and would appear to be very susceptible to leaks.
3. The bracket on the passenger side carbon cap is not meant to last. It broke off right after I started the engine. Luckily it's not vital for the operation of the plenum.
After installation, the manifold definitely looks a lot nicer than the stock setup and clears the strut bar much better. Please ignore the dirty engine bay.
Aesthetics aside, how did it perform? Driving the car around a noticeable power loss can be felt down in the lower and mid range. I was quite disappointed to say the least but I never trust my butt dyno so off to the dyno it went. Below is a series of two different test comparing the Cosworth on a fully NA engine.
Based on these tests, it is apparent that the Cosworth is not suited at all for my application so back to the Motordyne setup it is. But I must say that the one performance advantage the Cosworth has over the MD is the ability to sustain power pass 6500rpm... to be continued.
As expected from cosworth and any premium items, Build quality, packaging, and looks were top notch.
Installation of the unit was straight forward, other than three things.
1. My box didn't come with manual so I had to get one faxed from the vendor.
2. Installing the gasket for the carbon cap is really a pain in the butt and would appear to be very susceptible to leaks.
3. The bracket on the passenger side carbon cap is not meant to last. It broke off right after I started the engine. Luckily it's not vital for the operation of the plenum.
After installation, the manifold definitely looks a lot nicer than the stock setup and clears the strut bar much better. Please ignore the dirty engine bay.
Aesthetics aside, how did it perform? Driving the car around a noticeable power loss can be felt down in the lower and mid range. I was quite disappointed to say the least but I never trust my butt dyno so off to the dyno it went. Below is a series of two different test comparing the Cosworth on a fully NA engine.
Based on these tests, it is apparent that the Cosworth is not suited at all for my application so back to the Motordyne setup it is. But I must say that the one performance advantage the Cosworth has over the MD is the ability to sustain power pass 6500rpm... to be continued.
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yummmy96712 (01-29-2017)
03-27-2010, 08:53 PM
#2
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It seems just about every NA application that used the Cossie intake, wasnt too thrilled about their results.. Built or not, tuned or bolted on, there has been significant losses attributed with the Cossie intake.
Im not knocking Cosworth, they make high quality products, even after your build Gabe, it proves yet again its dominance shows in FI only applications.
I love how you put everything together, and step-by-step. That is how a true enthusiast should do it (given financial stability). Either way, KUDOS to you for stepping out and going all out
ENJOY!!!
Im not knocking Cosworth, they make high quality products, even after your build Gabe, it proves yet again its dominance shows in FI only applications.
I love how you put everything together, and step-by-step. That is how a true enthusiast should do it (given financial stability). Either way, KUDOS to you for stepping out and going all out
ENJOY!!!
Very interesting info, thanks for taking the time doing the dyno test on a NA setup!Trending Topics
03-28-2010, 10:15 PM
#8
Excellent testing and analysis Gabe.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
03-29-2010, 01:57 PM
#11
Excellent testing and analysis Gabe.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
03-29-2010, 03:38 PM
#13
Excellent testing and analysis Gabe.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
On a side note for your picture above... I recommend getting a heat shield for your intake. Without a heat shield your engine is ingesting ~150'F air from behind the radiator.
You can pick up a substantial amount of power just by going back to your stock intake with a clean filter.
See the plot below.
It was a test of air intake temperature Vs HP. The only variable changing in this test series was air intake temperature. 50'F to 120'F in ~20'F intervals.
I fully agree and understand that power loss will happen but after monitoring my car under operation, the intake temps drops really quick once you start moving. However there is a slight difference with and without the heat shield even while moving, especially if the AC is on (5-10F difference is what I see).
Glad you liked the info.
03-29-2010, 06:23 PM
#15
Without a heat shield its sucking in 150'F air all the time. And that's on a 70'F day. On a hot day the intake temperature will go even higher. ~180'F
EDIT: With the heat shield, the temperature will drop but it takes about 5-10 seconds before the ECU reads the temperature drop. And this means ~20HP is lost inside the first 5-10 seconds of launching.
Last edited by Hydrazine; 03-29-2010 at 06:27 PM.
03-29-2010, 10:55 PM
#16
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^^^ Yep, this is true. I've done some monitoring and logging when my JWT with head shield was on and idling in 50-degree weather for 1 minute raised AIT to 130-degrees, before I started moving again.
The bottom line is that the 06 OEM airbox from a VQ35DE is the absolute best intake for our motors.
The bottom line is that the 06 OEM airbox from a VQ35DE is the absolute best intake for our motors.
Last edited by SniperHunter; 03-29-2010 at 11:00 PM.
03-30-2010, 07:07 AM
#17
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Good job OP! Thanks for the information...
03-30-2010, 07:21 AM
#18
That's when you have a popcharger WITH its heat shield.
Without a heat shield its sucking in 150'F air all the time. And that's on a 70'F day. On a hot day the intake temperature will go even higher. ~180'F
EDIT: With the heat shield, the temperature will drop but it takes about 5-10 seconds before the ECU reads the temperature drop. And this means ~20HP is lost inside the first 5-10 seconds of launching.
Without a heat shield its sucking in 150'F air all the time. And that's on a 70'F day. On a hot day the intake temperature will go even higher. ~180'F
EDIT: With the heat shield, the temperature will drop but it takes about 5-10 seconds before the ECU reads the temperature drop. And this means ~20HP is lost inside the first 5-10 seconds of launching.
I'm questioning for track use(not 1/4 mile, twisties)
03-30-2010, 08:00 AM
#19
In the dyno testing I've done the stock box is good as long as you change out to good clean filters on a regular basis. The stock paper filter is good as long as its clean.
The paper filter clogs faster than a aftermarket filter but it does a good job of cleaning the air flowing through it.
The paper filter clogs faster than a aftermarket filter but it does a good job of cleaning the air flowing through it.
