Received Takeda intakes today
06-01-2012, 01:22 PM
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No tuning was involved, for best results with any breathing/ engine mod, a tune is needed. Also, you need to alter both inlet and exhaust for best results.
06-01-2012, 02:35 PM
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He also grabbed the dudes butt like 2min in lol! Whether they actually busted any myths is open to interpretation.
None the less, as shared, i feel these will be good for a basic bolt on combination with a tune.
06-05-2012, 09:11 AM
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Still waiting for the ELM to come in, but here is some interesting info (or refresher info) from Neuspeed and is available on "another" forum.
Just adding as it touches on some of the topics in the thread and the potential benefits or tradeoffs of this specific intake...
Just adding as it touches on some of the topics in the thread and the potential benefits or tradeoffs of this specific intake...
Question : What's the difference between a stock airbox, a short ram system (open intake filter), or a CAI (Cold Air Intake)? Isn't the CAI the best since it draws cold air? Won't the short ram system just draw hot air and cause my engine to lose power?
Answer : A short ram system usually refers to a open filter (cylindrical or conical shaped) attached directly to the mass air flow meter, or attached via a short velocity tube. In some applications, a heat shield surrounds the filter to reduce the effects of radiant heat coming from the engine. A cold air intake usually refers to either a heat shield that seals to the hood and surrounds the sides and bottom of the filter, or a long extension tube that relocates the filter in the front fenderwell.
The Science Behind an Air Intake
You've probably heard this before on the internet, "...colder air is denser air, and that means more horsepower." In fact, you've probably heard this enough times that you're convinced it's true, right? Well this might throw you for a loop then: It's entirely possible to gain horsepower with just an open element intake. Drawing in air that is warmer than the outside air does not automatically equate to a horsepower loss when the stock airbox has been removed. Now here is the science behind that statement.
When looking at the properties of gases (and air is a gas) the actual scientific equation for density is:
Density = mass / volume
A quick review of our science book tells us to increase air density you could increase the mass, or reduce the volume. To increase mass, you could increase pressure or reduce temperature. To reduce volume you could increase pressure or reduce temperature. So air pressure and temperature are the two common variables that we have to work with. Everyone likes to talk about temperature, but very few people ever address pressure. Pressure and temperature are equally important.
Pressure, Temperature, and SAE J1349
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a test standard that helps standardized engine horsepower testing and results so that the variable effects of barometric pressure, altitude, and intake air temperatures do not bias the test results. The SAE J1349 test procedure includes an engine horsepower correction factor so that, for example, dyno readings taken at 3500 feet on a 40 degree day can be compared with dyno readings taken at sea level on a 77 degree day.
This correction factor is used for Normally Aspirated Engines, not forced induction engines. Once the correction factor is determined, it can be applied to the actual dyno readings so they can be adjusted back to simulate a test conducted at sea level, on a 77 degree day, with 1% humidity.
The SAE correction factor can be approximated using this equation:
CF = 1.18 * (29.235 / Bdo) * ((square root (To + 460) / 537) - 0.153)
where CF = the correction factor, Bdo = the dry ambient barometric pressure in inches of mercury (in/Hg), and To = the intake air temperature in degrees Fahrenheit.
Test 1: The Baseline Test
Let's test this equation with a hypothetical engine that dynos at 100HP. We test this engine on a 77 degree day, at sea level. So, we set Bdo = to 29.235 in/Hg and To = to 77F. When we solve the equation for CF, the correction factor equals 1. That means according to SAE, our dyno reading does not require a correction factor for temperature or barometric pressure. It is a true 100HP engine.
Test 2: Temperature = 87 degrees F, Pressure = 29.235 in/Hg
What happens when the temperature climbs by 10 degrees, but pressure stays constant? Plugging in 87 for To and 29.235 for Bdo, we can calculate the value of CF. CF = 1.0104. Working our correction factor equation backwards, we take:
100hp / 1.0104 = 98.97hp.
So, according to the SAE correction factor, a 10 degree increase in temp should result in a loss of 1.03% of rated horsepower, or 1hp on our engine.
Test 3: Temperature = 77 degrees F, Pressure = 28.235 in/Hg
What happens when the pressure drops by 1.0 in/Hg, but temperature stays constant? Plugging in 77 for To and 28.235 for Bdo, we calculate CF and find it equals 1.042.
100hp / 1.042 = 95.96hp.
So, according to the SAE correction factor, a 1 in/Hg drop in air pressure should result in a loss of 4.04% of rated horsepower, or 4hp on our engine.
Wow! A drop of 1.0 in/Hg in air pressure is roughly equivalent to climbing approximately 1,000 feet in altitude. That's not very high. The Sear's Tower in Chicago is 1353 feet tall. So, if we put our car in the Sear's Tower freight elevator and take it to the roof, now we have an SAE correction factor of approximately 1.060. We lost almost 6hp just going from the ground floor to the roof level !!
What Does It All Mean?
When designing a P-Flo intake, it means we are concerned about how much pressure loss is caused by the stock airbox. For example, barometric pressure at sea level may be 29.235 in/Hg, but air pressure drops as air enters the factory airbox and passes through the filter. So the pressure below the air filter element (on engine side of the intake system) is going to be less than 29.235. How do we know this? There is another SAE test, J726, that is used to calculate the efficiency of air filters. One of the variables measured in this test is the air pressure drop caused by the factory airbox and filter element. We call this pressure drop "Delta P" or differential pressure.
Would you be surprised to find that during the SAE J726 test, the stock airbox can cause a Delta P of anywhere from 15-20psi, depending on the CFM moving through the intake tract? And that just changing the filter element material can result in a 1-5 psi difference? Want to test this in real life? Take a normally aspirated car like the Golf VR6 or the Acura RSX and run two back-to-back dyno tests: One test with the airbox on, one with the airbox totally removed. Did you find a horsepower gain at the higher RPMs without the airbox? You gained HP, and yet the intake air temperature stayed the same or maybe even went higher. So part of the Delta P is caused by restrictions in your factory airbox.
However, during the SAE J726 tests we conducted, we found the Delta P to be lowest when an oiled cotton gauze filter material (K&N style) is used. Synthetic foam filters have the highest Delta P due to the lubricating polymer they are typically coated with. So the other component to lowering Delta P is choosing the air filter element that flows without much restriction, yet still traps dirt.
So, in summary it is entirely possible to gain horsepower just by moving to a short ram intake. Reducing the Delta P will be an improvement on its own. Of course, if you can reduce intake air temperatures AND reduce Delta P, then you have the best of both worlds. But given a choice between the two, Delta P is more important for most vehicles. NEUSPEED makes short ram systems (with and without heat shields) and "CAI" cold air intakes. So the type of filter kit offered for your car is based on what worked the best during our design and testing.
Be advised that CAI systems that place the air filter down into the front fenderwell should not be used in wet, rainy conditions, especially in areas that experience excessive puddling or patches of standing water. If you operate your car frequently in these conditions, we recommend that you use our short ram systems instead to avoid ingesting water into your engine. Water ingestion is a very serious problem and can lead to extensive engine damage.
Try It Yourself
Here's an online calculator where you can input different pressure, temperature, and altitude values to see how they affect your engine
Answer : A short ram system usually refers to a open filter (cylindrical or conical shaped) attached directly to the mass air flow meter, or attached via a short velocity tube. In some applications, a heat shield surrounds the filter to reduce the effects of radiant heat coming from the engine. A cold air intake usually refers to either a heat shield that seals to the hood and surrounds the sides and bottom of the filter, or a long extension tube that relocates the filter in the front fenderwell.
The Science Behind an Air Intake
You've probably heard this before on the internet, "...colder air is denser air, and that means more horsepower." In fact, you've probably heard this enough times that you're convinced it's true, right? Well this might throw you for a loop then: It's entirely possible to gain horsepower with just an open element intake. Drawing in air that is warmer than the outside air does not automatically equate to a horsepower loss when the stock airbox has been removed. Now here is the science behind that statement.
When looking at the properties of gases (and air is a gas) the actual scientific equation for density is:
Density = mass / volume
A quick review of our science book tells us to increase air density you could increase the mass, or reduce the volume. To increase mass, you could increase pressure or reduce temperature. To reduce volume you could increase pressure or reduce temperature. So air pressure and temperature are the two common variables that we have to work with. Everyone likes to talk about temperature, but very few people ever address pressure. Pressure and temperature are equally important.
Pressure, Temperature, and SAE J1349
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a test standard that helps standardized engine horsepower testing and results so that the variable effects of barometric pressure, altitude, and intake air temperatures do not bias the test results. The SAE J1349 test procedure includes an engine horsepower correction factor so that, for example, dyno readings taken at 3500 feet on a 40 degree day can be compared with dyno readings taken at sea level on a 77 degree day.
This correction factor is used for Normally Aspirated Engines, not forced induction engines. Once the correction factor is determined, it can be applied to the actual dyno readings so they can be adjusted back to simulate a test conducted at sea level, on a 77 degree day, with 1% humidity.
The SAE correction factor can be approximated using this equation:
CF = 1.18 * (29.235 / Bdo) * ((square root (To + 460) / 537) - 0.153)
where CF = the correction factor, Bdo = the dry ambient barometric pressure in inches of mercury (in/Hg), and To = the intake air temperature in degrees Fahrenheit.
Test 1: The Baseline Test
Let's test this equation with a hypothetical engine that dynos at 100HP. We test this engine on a 77 degree day, at sea level. So, we set Bdo = to 29.235 in/Hg and To = to 77F. When we solve the equation for CF, the correction factor equals 1. That means according to SAE, our dyno reading does not require a correction factor for temperature or barometric pressure. It is a true 100HP engine.
Test 2: Temperature = 87 degrees F, Pressure = 29.235 in/Hg
What happens when the temperature climbs by 10 degrees, but pressure stays constant? Plugging in 87 for To and 29.235 for Bdo, we can calculate the value of CF. CF = 1.0104. Working our correction factor equation backwards, we take:
100hp / 1.0104 = 98.97hp.
So, according to the SAE correction factor, a 10 degree increase in temp should result in a loss of 1.03% of rated horsepower, or 1hp on our engine.
Test 3: Temperature = 77 degrees F, Pressure = 28.235 in/Hg
What happens when the pressure drops by 1.0 in/Hg, but temperature stays constant? Plugging in 77 for To and 28.235 for Bdo, we calculate CF and find it equals 1.042.
100hp / 1.042 = 95.96hp.
So, according to the SAE correction factor, a 1 in/Hg drop in air pressure should result in a loss of 4.04% of rated horsepower, or 4hp on our engine.
Wow! A drop of 1.0 in/Hg in air pressure is roughly equivalent to climbing approximately 1,000 feet in altitude. That's not very high. The Sear's Tower in Chicago is 1353 feet tall. So, if we put our car in the Sear's Tower freight elevator and take it to the roof, now we have an SAE correction factor of approximately 1.060. We lost almost 6hp just going from the ground floor to the roof level !!
What Does It All Mean?
When designing a P-Flo intake, it means we are concerned about how much pressure loss is caused by the stock airbox. For example, barometric pressure at sea level may be 29.235 in/Hg, but air pressure drops as air enters the factory airbox and passes through the filter. So the pressure below the air filter element (on engine side of the intake system) is going to be less than 29.235. How do we know this? There is another SAE test, J726, that is used to calculate the efficiency of air filters. One of the variables measured in this test is the air pressure drop caused by the factory airbox and filter element. We call this pressure drop "Delta P" or differential pressure.
Would you be surprised to find that during the SAE J726 test, the stock airbox can cause a Delta P of anywhere from 15-20psi, depending on the CFM moving through the intake tract? And that just changing the filter element material can result in a 1-5 psi difference? Want to test this in real life? Take a normally aspirated car like the Golf VR6 or the Acura RSX and run two back-to-back dyno tests: One test with the airbox on, one with the airbox totally removed. Did you find a horsepower gain at the higher RPMs without the airbox? You gained HP, and yet the intake air temperature stayed the same or maybe even went higher. So part of the Delta P is caused by restrictions in your factory airbox.
However, during the SAE J726 tests we conducted, we found the Delta P to be lowest when an oiled cotton gauze filter material (K&N style) is used. Synthetic foam filters have the highest Delta P due to the lubricating polymer they are typically coated with. So the other component to lowering Delta P is choosing the air filter element that flows without much restriction, yet still traps dirt.
So, in summary it is entirely possible to gain horsepower just by moving to a short ram intake. Reducing the Delta P will be an improvement on its own. Of course, if you can reduce intake air temperatures AND reduce Delta P, then you have the best of both worlds. But given a choice between the two, Delta P is more important for most vehicles. NEUSPEED makes short ram systems (with and without heat shields) and "CAI" cold air intakes. So the type of filter kit offered for your car is based on what worked the best during our design and testing.
Be advised that CAI systems that place the air filter down into the front fenderwell should not be used in wet, rainy conditions, especially in areas that experience excessive puddling or patches of standing water. If you operate your car frequently in these conditions, we recommend that you use our short ram systems instead to avoid ingesting water into your engine. Water ingestion is a very serious problem and can lead to extensive engine damage.
Try It Yourself
Here's an online calculator where you can input different pressure, temperature, and altitude values to see how they affect your engine
06-05-2012, 06:10 PM
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I am not sure if you will have any additional gains from going from the Nismo to a different conical style intake filter, the filter (including the Takedas) has pretty good surface area but if it enhances the look, that is still a positive in its own way.
There are some other things that you can look into as far as built in velocity stacks and funnels such as with the Apexi intakes (we loved running these on the Mr2 turbo boards...I have one on my Mr2), but some other apps didnt see much or anything at all from switching. We liked it cause it had decent gains in comparison but primarily because it came with a rain guard. Filtration was really good as well...below is an interesting article onthe supra boards.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/
Last edited by farvaric; 06-05-2012 at 06:15 PM.
06-05-2012, 10:39 PM
#29
If I am not mistaken, AEM and Nismo are the same/identical (AEM makes the Nismo?) they have heat shields just like the Takedas, the primary difference being that the Takedas surround and enclose the filter completely.
I am not sure if you will have any additional gains from going from the Nismo to a different conical style intake filter, the filter (including the Takedas) has pretty good surface area but if it enhances the look, that is still a positive in its own way.
I am not sure if you will have any additional gains from going from the Nismo to a different conical style intake filter, the filter (including the Takedas) has pretty good surface area but if it enhances the look, that is still a positive in its own way.
06-06-2012, 04:45 PM
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The ELM came in today so I will be hooking that up to the Torque app and pulling some info on the intake and how well it matches ambient temps outside.
I dont have the stock boxes on anymore so I wont have a baseline of that, but maybe someone can run some similar test and we can gauge the variances of stock boxes in various states to that of the ambient temp while I do the same with the Takedas?
Either way, I will get one side of the info.
Plan to do the following for now...add to it or make other suggestions if interested:
1. notate ambient temp via temp read out in the car
2. notate intake take upon startup idle vs ambient
3. notate intake temp upon cruising post warmup (prior to complete heat soak)
4. notate intake temp upon hard driving post warmup (prior to heat soak)
5. notate intake temp post hard driving and back to idle (it would be heat soaked at this point)
6. repeat steps 1-5 after heat soak (driving car for a while)
Exuse the terminology and blatant use of "heat soak" all over the place, but i think everyone gets what I am trying to see
I dont have the stock boxes on anymore so I wont have a baseline of that, but maybe someone can run some similar test and we can gauge the variances of stock boxes in various states to that of the ambient temp while I do the same with the Takedas?
Either way, I will get one side of the info.
Plan to do the following for now...add to it or make other suggestions if interested:
1. notate ambient temp via temp read out in the car
2. notate intake take upon startup idle vs ambient
3. notate intake temp upon cruising post warmup (prior to complete heat soak)
4. notate intake temp upon hard driving post warmup (prior to heat soak)
5. notate intake temp post hard driving and back to idle (it would be heat soaked at this point)
6. repeat steps 1-5 after heat soak (driving car for a while)
Exuse the terminology and blatant use of "heat soak" all over the place, but i think everyone gets what I am trying to see
06-06-2012, 08:25 PM
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Temps taken
So here is some info:
Method of study = OBD2 port
Module = ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 Realtime diagnostics scanner module (this is awesome btw)
Diagnostics App = Torque Pro that utilizes car ECU, engine, abs, throttle, banks, and O2 sensors along with device accelerometers and GPS (this is extremely awesome btw, I cant stress enough how good this thing is...the free app sucks ***** in comparison to what you get with the paid app...it is COMPLETELY different)
Before I start, I want to say to EVERYONE who does not have a tune/tuner with data logging or does not already own a high end, real-time diagnostics tool...you should have these two products/items (ELM327 OBD2 Module and Torque Pro). It tracks essentially anything our ECU outputs including engine, tranny, and abs vitals. Additionally it does have track telemetry and car performance features (it actually has a ton...feel like you are setting up GT or Forza...and honestly, it uses BOTH GPS and accelorometers to capture performance info).
Anyways...to some of the numbers I tracked...
Startup:
Warm-up Trip:
Aggressive Trip:
Essentially the intakes demonstrate a rough average of ~22.9* variance/difference of the outside temp while at speed (ram air effects) at ~60* during a clear night.
Please note that after my aggressive runs and despite gauging idle temps rising to ~150* (assumed to quickly rise), once the car was placed into gear and into motion up to 40mph+, the car quickly ramped temps back down to 86* and continued back down to ~80-84.6*.
I wish I had another HR with me or had my ELM prior to installing the intakes to gauge any differences, but I would say that this does an excellent job.
I will also point out BUT IT MUST BE CONFIRMED, that I thought I read somewhere that Long tubes (CAI's) had "only" a 20* variance. If I can confirm this from someone else's info, I will leave this, otherwise, we may have to delete this last line...but as of now, very interesting.
So two more pieces to capture from contributing members on hwo well these Takedas are when compared to the other styles: 1) we need similar info on stock boxes 2) we need similar info long tubes.
Hope this provided some more insight guys
Method of study = OBD2 port
Module = ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 Realtime diagnostics scanner module (this is awesome btw)
Diagnostics App = Torque Pro that utilizes car ECU, engine, abs, throttle, banks, and O2 sensors along with device accelerometers and GPS (this is extremely awesome btw, I cant stress enough how good this thing is...the free app sucks ***** in comparison to what you get with the paid app...it is COMPLETELY different)
Before I start, I want to say to EVERYONE who does not have a tune/tuner with data logging or does not already own a high end, real-time diagnostics tool...you should have these two products/items (ELM327 OBD2 Module and Torque Pro). It tracks essentially anything our ECU outputs including engine, tranny, and abs vitals. Additionally it does have track telemetry and car performance features (it actually has a ton...feel like you are setting up GT or Forza...and honestly, it uses BOTH GPS and accelorometers to capture performance info).
Anyways...to some of the numbers I tracked...
Startup:
- Outside temp = ~60* (NOTE: this stayed essentially consistent throughout my 29.6 miles of driving)
- Coolant temp (at idle and warm-up) = ~128+* (IIRC)
- Startup temp readings = ~63*
- Startup idle temp readings = climbed to ~90+*
Warm-up Trip:
- Outside temp = ~60*
- Coolant temp (at idle and cooldown) = ~208*
- Warm-up temp cruising speed (30-40mph) = ~80-84.2*
- Warm-up temp at speed (65-75mph) = ~80-84.2*
- Variance in motion = ~20-24.2*
Aggressive Trip:
- Outside temp = ~60*
- Coolant temp ~208*(At idle and cooldown)
- Aggressive driving temp cruising speed (30-75mph post sprints and gear pulls) = ~80-84.6*
- Aggressive driving temp at speed (65-75mph post sprints and gear pulls) = ~80-84.2*
- Aggressive driving temp at idle = ~climbed to ~140-150*
- Variance at idle = ~80-90*
- Variance at speed = ~20-24.6*
Essentially the intakes demonstrate a rough average of ~22.9* variance/difference of the outside temp while at speed (ram air effects) at ~60* during a clear night.
Please note that after my aggressive runs and despite gauging idle temps rising to ~150* (assumed to quickly rise), once the car was placed into gear and into motion up to 40mph+, the car quickly ramped temps back down to 86* and continued back down to ~80-84.6*.
I wish I had another HR with me or had my ELM prior to installing the intakes to gauge any differences, but I would say that this does an excellent job.
I will also point out BUT IT MUST BE CONFIRMED, that I thought I read somewhere that Long tubes (CAI's) had "only" a 20* variance. If I can confirm this from someone else's info, I will leave this, otherwise, we may have to delete this last line...but as of now, very interesting.
So two more pieces to capture from contributing members on hwo well these Takedas are when compared to the other styles: 1) we need similar info on stock boxes 2) we need similar info long tubes.
Hope this provided some more insight guys
Last edited by farvaric; 06-06-2012 at 08:53 PM.
06-09-2012, 09:03 AM
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To clarify this point, I meant to say that I thought I read someone with Stillens or Injens stated they saw a only 20* difference over ambient outside temps, but need to confirm this point.
06-17-2012, 02:42 PM
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If you will PM me the info for your data logger I will aquire one and get you a stock benchmark. I have an 08 base with no mods. (just bought it 3 weeks ago)
06-29-2012, 05:26 PM
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Ok, I finally got my ELM working and took some readings. I'm going to run the car tomorrow morning after it cools fully as I didn't get it working until after driving around for a little bit.
Here's what I've seen thus far.
Car at startup after 20 minutes of driving. This was just sitting in the parking lot.
Intake Temp: 129.6 F avg.
Ambient Temp 102 F
After 3 minutes of driving just cruising in traffic below 50 MPH:
Intake Temp: 114.4 F
Ambient Temp 101 F
After 10 minutes I got out on a highway and was able to cruise:
Intake Temp: 108.5 F
Ambient Temp: 100 F
After this I did one full throttle run in third gear
Intake Temp: 102.3 F
Ambient Temp: 100 F
This is on a completely stock 08 HR at about 8:30 PM Eastern
I do have a new Takeda Intake kit sitting on my dining room table that I plan to install tomorrow after I take some more readings in order see a before and after in this heat.
I hope this info helps!
Here's what I've seen thus far.
Car at startup after 20 minutes of driving. This was just sitting in the parking lot.
Intake Temp: 129.6 F avg.
Ambient Temp 102 F
After 3 minutes of driving just cruising in traffic below 50 MPH:
Intake Temp: 114.4 F
Ambient Temp 101 F
After 10 minutes I got out on a highway and was able to cruise:
Intake Temp: 108.5 F
Ambient Temp: 100 F
After this I did one full throttle run in third gear
Intake Temp: 102.3 F
Ambient Temp: 100 F
This is on a completely stock 08 HR at about 8:30 PM Eastern
I do have a new Takeda Intake kit sitting on my dining room table that I plan to install tomorrow after I take some more readings in order see a before and after in this heat.
I hope this info helps!
07-01-2012, 09:17 PM
#36
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Nice!
Yea, cant really compare my run of temps to yours, but getting as close to back to back runs would be interesting if you have roughly the same temp outside, may even want to drive around stock the day tou install to pull some newer numbers.
Yea, cant really compare my run of temps to yours, but getting as close to back to back runs would be interesting if you have roughly the same temp outside, may even want to drive around stock the day tou install to pull some newer numbers.
07-02-2012, 07:34 PM
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I pulled some more numbers yesterday before I installed it. The temps were close, never less than the outside temp on the stock boxes. After I installed the Takeda setup I saw something interesting. My IM temps were a little lower my outside temp was 102 and my IM temp would drop to 98.3 F at WOT. More interesting than that was the MAF flow rates. On the stock boxes it peaked at 17.3 g/s at WOT @ 100~ F. With the Takedas I saw MAF rates increase to 38.9 g/s at WOT @ 99~ F.
My understanding is that Flow rates are indicative of denser air which usually infers cooler air. Barometric pressure readings from all the runs were around 14.1
Any thoughts?
My understanding is that Flow rates are indicative of denser air which usually infers cooler air. Barometric pressure readings from all the runs were around 14.1
Any thoughts?
07-03-2012, 05:13 PM
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Nice info, better results than what I initially provided in my quick run after recieving the ELM
When I get back in town from my business trip (another two weeks), I am going to pull some new numbers and post back up to see if I mirror your results to see if we can back them up from another vehicle/party.
Kee updating us when you have a chance.
Thanks!
When I get back in town from my business trip (another two weeks), I am going to pull some new numbers and post back up to see if I mirror your results to see if we can back them up from another vehicle/party.
Kee updating us when you have a chance.
Thanks!
01-05-2017, 06:42 AM
#39
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2007 350z Enthusiast installation issues
I have a feeling this intake was not made to fit my 2007 350z Enthusiast. I had issues with tubing being able to connect properly and the heat shields screw placement. Or lining up easily. Specifically on the drivers side. The instructions seem to reference the Nismo a lot, I as curious if this is made specifically for the Nismo?
In the end it all ended up working. I just required some extra tubing and had to cut pieces provided. Most time consuming was finding out I needed a 5/8" tee to connect on the tubing back. (a 1/2" was only available at the closest auto shop so again I had to work some magic)
any help is definity welcome!
In the end it all ended up working. I just required some extra tubing and had to cut pieces provided. Most time consuming was finding out I needed a 5/8" tee to connect on the tubing back. (a 1/2" was only available at the closest auto shop so again I had to work some magic)
any help is definity welcome!
01-05-2017, 06:43 AM
#40
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2007 350z Enthusiast installation issues
I have a feeling this intake was not made to fit my 2007 350z Enthusiast. I had issues with tubing being able to connect properly and the heat shields screw placement. Or lining up easily. Specifically on the drivers side. The instructions seem to reference the Nismo a lot, I as curious if this is made specifically for the Nismo?
In the end it all ended up working. I just required some extra tubing and had to cut pieces provided. Most time consuming was finding out I needed a 5/8" tee to connect on the tubing back. (a 1/2" was only available at the closest auto shop so again I had to work some magic)
any help is definity welcome!
In the end it all ended up working. I just required some extra tubing and had to cut pieces provided. Most time consuming was finding out I needed a 5/8" tee to connect on the tubing back. (a 1/2" was only available at the closest auto shop so again I had to work some magic)
any help is definity welcome!