farvaric

Just received my Takeda intakes today.

Build quality looks very solid. Has the heat shields and detailed instructions (just added that for total package quality).

The box was nice and the contents were placed intelligently throughout the entire volume of the box, not just dumped in with bubble wrap and peanuts.

It included a license plate frame as well, that was a nice suprise.

Overall impressed with the professionalism and care of the packaging and contents.

Surprised how "short" the intake pipes are actually, look much longer in pics. Heat shields are MASSIVE...largest piece actually.

They also come with all required fittings and couplers (the important ones as well that replace the stock ribbed ones that cause performance deficiencies supposedly).

Uploaded two photos of the box and the contents in case anyone was interested.

I know the primary questions/instructions would be for me to get it dynoed...but we dont have any dynos around Syracuse...the closest is in Rochester a little over an hour away and I am too lazy to put miles on the car to pay for a dyno to confirm what I assume are small performance gains over a baseline pull.

They state a 8-10hp gain at its highest point, but that is advertisement jargon.

Now have these plus true dual on the car. High flows next.

stevehl

iTrader: (29)

these are hr intakes? Can you post a pic after install and a short review? Thanks

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

In for install/install review pics and input

farvaric

Will do.

Going to install before my meeting while I have downtime

Will need to uninstall and reinstall probably...getting an inspection done on Monday at the dealer, not sure if it will cause an issue as I have an extended 4yr warranty on my car that still has 3yrs and like 42k miles left.

These are HR intakes.

jerseystyle

iTrader: (22)

Nope, aftermarket intakes will not affect your warranty. I've had aftermarket intakes on my car since 08 when I bought the car new.

Where did you purchase these and how much?

hyuk28719

iTrader: (3)

in for pics and review

farvaric

Yea, I know that there is the M&M Act, but I haven't heard of anyone practicing it or at least having to (which should be a good thing).

Just curious, were you able to take yours to your dealer for things like maintenance, ect. without any issue.

The reason I am going to the dealer is because I get it for free every year through my purchase (could be just rounded into the cars overall cost), just dont want to run into any issues, so asking is all :-)

pss350z

iTrader: (6)

+1

I'll ask again.... How much? And where did you get them from?

Thanks

farvaric

Sorry, was typing up the review and loading pics...it will all be in there.

farvaric

Ok, so I have tons of pics for you guys, tried to shoot different angles so you guys get an idea of what it has, how well it sits ect.

What = Takeda 350z HR short ram and heat shielded intakes
Cost = $285 shipped
Purchase From = dealer on ebay...he has the LOWEST price on these

Review (Summary and Scaling 1-10, 10 being best):

Packaging and Contents = 10

The packaging was very well thought out (at least for my box). The box came garnered with Takeda markings and logos in various sizes, and in various colors. I like seeing this from a provider as it tells me they care somewhat to invest in differentiation and depiction so customers and other know who made and owns the IP within the box. The content was placed very intelligently within the box, it was evident there was a system of how packagers were expected to fit the contents, they were not just "dumped into a box of peanuts with contents wrapped 100 times in crap". All parts were individually packaged and the air filters came within boxes that contained information on the filters themselves as well as additional Takeda stickers.

Contents within equated to: 2x filters; 2x VERY polished aluminum pipes with Takeda decals applied; 2 black TB couplers; 2 black, pipe to Filter bracket couplers; 2x filter brackets; 2x heat shields; 2x rubber grommet strips for heat shield vs hood protection (these also came with a soft edge just like the stock hood grommet); 14x C-clamps of various sizes for what is required; 2x hi temp hoses (pain in the **** to get the driver side one in); decently detailed instructions specific to HR and Nismo Z's; ALL screws necessary (you will re-utilize the Radiator bracket screws); ALL fittings necessary (2 elbows and a bridge): ALL hoses necessary (you will re-utilize the vent hoses); lastly, a Takeda sticker and license plate frame.

Quality of Parts = 9

Parts quality are very good and honestly I can say they are higher than the 9 I gave it, but I got their new Logo and not the badass Kanji looking one on the pipes

All welds have been shaved down...you see none of it on the outside practically none of it on the inside...you can only see a color difference...if the inside were polished (that would be badarse) then you wouldnt see them either.

Great polish on the intake pipes, very good. Couplers are black and seem durable and thick (X ply). C-Clamps are shiny but are C-Clamps...

Heat shield has a glossy, textured coating with nice surface area to ensure the intakes are getting all the cool air funneled to them while blocking heat from the engine bay.

Great piece really.

Instruction Details = 7

Instructions came in two sheets for a total of 4 pages. Right away it nicely lays out total package contents and tools required. Instructions are lain out from left to right and top to bottom, equating to roughly 30+ steps. While conducting the install, it became evident that certain steps were missing and you had to look at the pictures carefully. This was only required in two instances 1) installing the passenger side heat shield required you to remove the rubber grommets out of the frame...this is where the stock airbox is nestled into...there are two right next to each other 2) the instructions for when you attach the breather/vent line on the passenger side does not state to remove the vent box, however it is removed in the pics...this is left in place on the driver side...I did remove the passenger side one. Overall the instructions were good enough and by no means low quality, just need to include all steps...even if assumed as being obvious.

Install and fitment = 8

The install was pretty painless (I had to complete it in the dark with a lamp off my jump starter and a lamp off of my complex building). I did have to refit the passenger side heat shield as it was not 100% shaped in place...just had to reshape it...driver side heat shield slipped in like butter. Pipes and all other components fit perfectly, keep in mind, even with intakes...it is a TIGHT fit.

Before you get started, I recommend pre-assembling two core components 1) the main intake pipes with ALL couplers and loose C-clamps 2) assemble heat shield and filter bracket. Unhook battery prior to getting started as well. Now install essentially starts by taking off the COMPLETE engine cover. If I did it again, I would have contemplated removing the strut bar as well to ensure 100% assurance of pipes being scratch-free...mine got a small scratch on the driver side where the adjustment nut is but is hidden once installed. You continue by removing the Sensor clips, then the airbox, then the stock, ribbed pipes. At this point all stock components are out and you proceed by installing the the heat shield WITH the pre-assembled filter bracket, next...you take your pre-assembled aftermarket pipe...slip the couplers as close to the center of the pipe as you can get them from either end (this will give you maximum play room required to slide in and fit the pipes). Now install the Sensors prior to installing pipes. Once done, go ahead and slide the pipe in on the passenger side and THEN twist it counter-clockwise to slide the Sensor clip on, now slide on the vent hose and twist clockwise back and slide couplers where they need to go and tighten. Lastly (for passenger side), install the air filter. For the driver side, BE SURE that the vent hose is already installed on the aftermarket pipe and pointed towards the engine, you will be happy you did this and that you would save yourself a crap load of back aches. Now clip on the Sensor PRIOR to sliding in the driver side pipe, you will be happy you did this...it has enough slack on the driver side. slide the end of the vent hose back on to the vent box that sits next to the TB, and install filter. Install your engine cover...connect batter and cover....make sure you didnt leave anything under the hood so you dont have that "Oh NOOOooooo!" moment once you let it go...start her up.

Sound = 9

If you have a true dual you will swear you have a V8 now...I dont know what it was (maybe the fact that it was 50 degrees out at night and the car was only warmed up) but the sound on the throttle with load is nuts with an exhaust.....NASTY and ORGASMIC...really is. Off throttle, you wouldnt even tell the difference, but as soon as you stomp on it at say 3k or so...1) you first hear the intakes start to take a big swig of air...then it becomes pretty normal....then when you hit 5k+ it just jolts and opens up a really nasty and angry sound...I let of the throttle at first....then punched it again and used it as the excuse to have the computer "re-learn"...truly a great sound WITH an aftermarket exhaust...no beating...now I know what the hell people are talking about (intakes on my other NA and turboed cars enhanced the cars overall sound, but were not anything amazing...these truly are, best sounding intakes I have had)....still chuckling at how it rips like a pissed of ape or a nice V8

Performance (WARNING...BUTT DYNO ONLY) = 9

Honestly, I will not spout off performance gains and all (I will choose to just keep it to myself), but I will say that the Z is not my first car I have modified...it is 5th one and two of the others being turboed to throw some ideas that I can "sense" a change...though it is subjective without a before and after dyno. I will say that there is a noticeable difference beyond just "sound and noise". Let me put it to you this way, as skepticle as I am about performance claims as they are advertised best numbers attained on "the day man was created", I will honestly say I am impressed and more than happy. It was colder out, however I did drive around about 4 miles and noticed rolling in 1st around 25mph then stomping on it that the car would still have to find traction which was sort of odd...didnt twitch the wheel, just rolled on to throttle then stabbed it, then a surge and that sexy noise again. Keep in mind, I also have a true dual exhaust on the car, so maybe the combination allows the two to work in tandem and benefit (aka: gain more) with each one in conjunction (of course this is typical in any modifying case, but you know how we say our cars are finicky with mods without tunes, ect.). I am happy with my purchase and time invested to get it installed.

Rating of seller = 10

got it in like 2 business day...crazy fast.

Overall Rating of product = Solid 9 (my opinion which takes into account everything listed above...product quality, install, and overall fun factor)

Pics attached for reference.

I know it was wordy, but hopefully it helps some of you out there

farvaric

more pics...sorry they are with my phone and massive...if you want, hold control and scroll wheel zoom out or just copy image into paint and re-size down to like 25% for a clear image res...

farvaric

advert/promo video for the 350z HR...gives an idea, but they don't deadline it and they have a nismo exhaust. Take a/AFE use a mustang dyno in house as well.

either way, nice video and a sense of sound at lower revs/pulls with and without load

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/S3UXKBt_rOU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Very nice, you should do some data logging for AIT with them. See how good the heat shield actually is.

farvaric

will search on how to do that and see what I can do. I plan to get an Osiris tune and hfc's, but maybe I can pick up an obd2 cable and android app or see if auto zone has a decent loaner that can display AIT.

farvaric

went ahead and bought an elm327 Bluetooth dongle, will hook it up and use torque app to get real time data to report....called auto zone and they don't have a loaner...Walmart want $200 and I have done the "I bought the wrong item" bit a ew times already lol!

should get it in the mail next week. will update.

JCITY

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up&pics!
Thanks.
Have you seen the video (U.K.?)about testing CAI's?
They tested various configurations...the filter placement to get
"colder" air to make a difference.Bottom line as I saw was,if you
actually installed the filters OUTSIDE the car,it made a temperature difference.
For sure,its gonna sound better.Power wise?Better than a Popcharger in what
you can actually feel?Probably not.

farvaric

Thanks and no problem, hope it was insightful for the forum.

Yea, long tubes are definitely superior overall as it places the filter completely out of the bay and keeps it closer to static/ambient temps and avoids heat soaked. What would be even better (not sure if they did this in the demonstration) would be to discern the TRUE difference of cars in actual motion.

The HR Z's came with really good airboxes, primarily due to the design and the actual ram air effect. I would not be surprised to see heat shielded ram airs perform relatively well if not better in rolling conditions. The filters are pointed directly at the ram slots and come with a pretty good heat shield that encases them that excavates heat soaked air and replaces it with ambient/cooler air...this is what is cool about it...other than how they look, but you cannot beat the performance of CAI, that is the bottom line.

I would definitely say there are/would be some gains based on the overall info and dynos out there, but would be curious as to what these lay down specifically as far as gains, don't see anything on them. Regardless, the design is smart, the sound is great, and I would recommend them to complete a simple bolt on combination with a tune if anyone doesn't want to spend the extra doh on CAI or just doesn't want to deal with any perceived hassles.

Bottom line on short rams, I would buy these...there is also a vendor who is selling them for a decent price on here, he had an advert started some time back for around $300 bucks I think, most other places charge around $350-400.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Long tube CAI actually draws the same temp air while moving as a SRI, just with extra resistance of the having 18 inches of more pipe.

farvaric

For our application I would agree, this is what i was trying to state to some extent in my comment about gauging heat shielded sris in motion.

However that is not necessarilly the primary gains, long term static air and the components that sit within that static air are affected...it isnt really static, but differentiating between outside ambient and under hood locations placements...this is one reason why people make and use iceboxes on intake systems.

With that being said, icant say the exact tradeoffs for our car, however we do have an efficient stock ram setup and as shared this feeds cool air in and extract hot air out when in motion. This is why i am interested in how well shielded sris in motion compare to cais.

Just my thoughts, every car is different and has varying design efficiencies that can lead to one mod being more benefitial on one app over another....look at dyno gains ms3 owners get from any intake mod :s crazy gains.

I think that heat shielded sris in motion would be interesting and may show some surprises.

farvaric

Not to take the thread off topic anymore, but Terrasmak, i believe we can get more insight in regards to temp once the port scanner comes in...I believe this is why you made the suggestion.

Will update you when i get it so we can toss around some potential tests for intake temp changes, variances, and margins.