zakmartin

You took the window tracks off? I left that in place and just unbolted the three bolts that held the motor on to the inside panel. The window was up during the whole replacement job (held up with tape and a couple clamps backed with polyurethane bumpers.)

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

My personal preference is to actually remove the window entirely instead of taping it up. This gives you a chance to clean up the tracks and use a dry lubricant on them. It also lets you clean up the window in it's entirety. Yes it's more risky/dangerous since you have to handle the glass. But it's much easier to remove and reinstall the window motor with the glass out of the car. The trickiest bit with this method is re-aligning the window on the regulator to match up with your weather stripping (Door seals). Bad alignment can result in wind noise and water leakage. You can easily get around the alignment issue by marking around the 3 bolts that hold the glass to the regulator. During re-assembly simply line up the bolts/washers with the markings.

Just my 2c.
-Icer

Bill_350Zzzz

Icer makes a good point about removing the glass. Take the glass totally out and use the lubricant to clean the tracks. This gets rid of any dirt and grime that could get in the way of the window working properly.

bjr

Is anybody else getting a large variation on how much the window drops when you open the door? Not day to day but between different motors.
I've had several driver side motors and they all turned out the same. But the last one drops about an inch but it works. My passenger one only drops 2-3 mm and have reset it several times. It even somehow lost it's memory and the auto up stopped working properly ( goes up then reverses half way down). I retrianed it and it works perfect again but still only drops 2-3 mm.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Hi Bjr,

Yes, I've noticed this same phenomenon on my Z. I've been doing some experimentation (when I have the time) and it looks like this is primarily due to the alignment of the window with the regulator mounts/bolts. The two mounts on the regulator do have some play in them. When you are torquing down the bolts that hold the window glass, you need to be very careful that these mounts/catches do not twist/move. Keeping them level and straight will help assure the best operation of the window. If you are off by just a few mm, this can cause a large difference in how much the window cracks open.

The window placement on these mounts/catches is also very important. If the window is too far forward or aft, then it will not crack open correctly. This is most likely due to friction between the forward and aft weather stripping/seals and window.

Another thing I would recommend checking are the window guides/brushes that are situated inside the door, near the top weatherstripping. If these are gummed up/dirty or the regulator is not aligned correctly, these can put too much pressure on the window and thus prevent it to crack easily.

As a last resort, you can try a light cleaning/oiling of the regulator assembly. But this must be done with extreme caution. If the lubricant you use is too heavy/viscous, you will create more problems. A very light silicone lubricant is what I would use in this situation (Google "Garage Door Lubricant"), but only if the regulator cable/guides are looking really dirty/gummed up. One more note, if you use a silicone spray, DO NOT get it on the window. Silicone is one of those things that is chemically inert to most solvents. So cleaning it off once it gets on something is horribly difficult.

Good luck with your project, I hope these recommendations help resolve or improve your situation!
-Icer

bjr

Thank you. I probably would have started investigating this by trying to learn how any limit switches work inside the motor or how it works at all since I couldn't imagine anything outside the motor causing this. Which is hard to do without a motor in my hands.
Thanks for giving me lots of other things to check.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

You're welcome! You can test my theory out, which is basically that the window is "sticking." Next time you open your door and the window cracks (The one that only cracks a small amount), just lightly push down on the top of the glass. If it suddenly falls down an additional 4-5mm, then you most likely have a sticking issue, not necessarily a motor issue. If your regulators are the originals, it is possible for the steel cable in the pulley system to stretch a bit overtime. This can create some slack and thus cause this weak "window cracking open" issue.

350z_Lam

Just attempted this today with my dad. Gosh my window is so bipolar! Some days it goes up some days it doesn't budge at all and some days it only goes up but not down. But thank god its fixed now.

For those have the window in the down position, one trick I found is to use strings to tie up the windows to prevent them from following since we can't really duct tape them like for those that have them already up. And also make sure u get the windows to align to the rubber slits on either side otherwise it causes a giant scratch when you try to roll it up like I did

oldschool350z

iTrader: (1)

I have to replace my passenger window motor. Is it easier to complete this by leaving the window up or down?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

he's alive! i have seen people use suction cups and tape to hold the window up, when i watched nissan do mine (was under warranty) the tech took the glass out completely

3hree5ive0ero

iTrader: (95)

Leave the windows up using tape.

bjr

Has anybody else had a motor either refuse to learn or fail to keep memory after properly taught? I have successfully trained about 6-8 motors with no trouble so I must assume I'm doing it right. I replaced my passenger window motor and have trained it twice now over the last few months. Passenger side only gets used about once a week vs. Driver side is several times a day, I can't be sure that it was ever working but I cannot imagine I would put the door together unless I tested it!
I'm about ready to exchange it for another one if I get in there again instead of training one more time. Anybody else given up on one before?

kwadell

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I have had that same problem. I replaced my passenger side motor twice with no problems. I got to the drivers side and it has never been right and would not learn accurately. I can't recall what I did to get it close but it still is not correct. It seems like the tuck is ok but the part where it needs to pull down the window when you open the door has always been off at least ¼".

350z_Lam

Hi guys a new problem has crept up after I thought all was good when I replaced the passenger window motor. Now the window squeaks when it rolls up and is very slow like the rubber slits are pressing hard against it. I think its not sliding perfect straight up. Im not sure if I might have messed up the angle/cambering of the window. How does the window know to go perfectly straight up and not slightly crooked is there a way to tune it?

bjr

Check and make sure the cable that attaches to the handle or door lock got snapped back into the clip that hold it away from the glass. It could be rubbing on the window and it has a foam pad on it where it fits in the clip. It can rub against the window and cause the symptoms you describe. Not an easy thing to check but a simple thing to fix. Hope that is all that is going on!

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Hey Lam,

When you replaced the window motor, did you remove the glass entirely from the door? Or did you secure it to hang up?

Also, once you removed the regulator/motor cover from the door, did you take note of some brass washers between the regulator bolts and the cover? These washers help set the angle of the window as it moves up/down. If you reinstalled the window with these washers in the wrong location, you could potentially have the type of issue you are describing.

Thanks!
-Icer

NR350z

Ok so followed this how to in order to fix my window and I ran into a bit of a snag. The new motor, regulator came in the down position and mine kicked the bucket in the up position. So I thought okay, no problem, plug in the motor and window switch and I put the key in and nothing, doesn't move at all, checked drivers side and it would go up and down but also tried the pass window from driver switch and still nothing.

Am I missing something? Does the motor bolt to the door as a ground? I tried both the new and old window motor and regulator and nothing... What am I missing!?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

check the window lockout button on the drivers side switch panel (circled in red)

NR350z

Would that prevent the drivers side switch from working the window? I didn't think so

travlee

iTrader: (8)

The passenger side....yes. the only reason i know is i thought my passenger side went out, took it to dealership because it was covered under my extended warranty.....they brought it back 5 min later telling me that