Window Motor repair, they can be fixed!
01-19-2012, 01:19 AM
#121
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passanger window issue
when I automatically put up my passanger window it goes up then comes back down half way by itself. Is there anyway to reset it or will I need a new motor
01-19-2012, 05:30 PM
#122
02-16-2012, 07:34 PM
#124
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Thanks Huyura! I'm received the brushes yesterday and will be fixing my motor tomorrow.
FWIW, I searched the intrawebz and local hobby shops for about three hours last Friday trying to find the correct brushes. Nobody, I mean NOBODY, NOWHERE had any 540 brushes - not local hobby/RC shops (they stopped carrying them), ebay, amazon, online r/c shops - nothing was available.
FWIW, I searched the intrawebz and local hobby shops for about three hours last Friday trying to find the correct brushes. Nobody, I mean NOBODY, NOWHERE had any 540 brushes - not local hobby/RC shops (they stopped carrying them), ebay, amazon, online r/c shops - nothing was available.
02-18-2012, 11:13 AM
#126
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I finished my motor rebuild yesterday. Everything worked great, but I just have a few notes about the new brushes.
1. The OEM brush's braided wire exits the top of the brush. The new brush's braid exits the rear. No big deal, just a head's up.
2. The braid on the new brush is just about 3mm shorter than the OEM braid. so, instead of the braid going over the top of the plastic housing housing (as you will see when you remove it from the motor), you will have to either, (1) leave a few mm of the original braid attached to the tab on the plastic housing, or, (2) cut the entire OEM braid off from where it attaches to then solder the new braid onto that same tab, and route the new braid across the back of the plastic housing (as I did). I tried #1, but in the process of soldering, desoldering, trimming, soldering, desoldering, trimming, etc., I inadvertently overheated the original braid and it broke off from the tab anyway. If you can do #1 in one or two tries, you might be ok. If not, I could not tell any functional or fitment issues with both new braids routed across the back. Also, try not to use too much solder, as it will make the braid very difficult to bend to where you want it to go.
3. I used 320 grit sandpaper and did 80 2-count (front then back = 1 count), 3 inch strokes to get the brush to fit in the slot perfectly.
4. THE MOST IMPORTANT - These brushes are about 1-2mm too long. I tried getting the damn motor back into the housing for 45 minutes or so before I realized that the brushes would not push back into the housing far enough for the rotor to fit back into the housing properly. The best thing to do (before you put yours back together) is to get a dremel with the small round grinder and grind out about a mm or so from the brush, following the same rounded contour already on the end of the brush. If you grind off more than a couple of mm from each brush, don't worry - there is plenty of material on the brush (just compare the length of the new one to your old brush and you'll see what I mean). If you don't take enough off, you will not be able to get it reassembled. Trust me - I know.
Lastly, my motor sounds like something from the Terminator now. It's smooth, but mush more "electric motor" sounding than before. I think that once the new brushes get broken in it will quiet down a bit.
Good luck!
1. The OEM brush's braided wire exits the top of the brush. The new brush's braid exits the rear. No big deal, just a head's up.
2. The braid on the new brush is just about 3mm shorter than the OEM braid. so, instead of the braid going over the top of the plastic housing housing (as you will see when you remove it from the motor), you will have to either, (1) leave a few mm of the original braid attached to the tab on the plastic housing, or, (2) cut the entire OEM braid off from where it attaches to then solder the new braid onto that same tab, and route the new braid across the back of the plastic housing (as I did). I tried #1, but in the process of soldering, desoldering, trimming, soldering, desoldering, trimming, etc., I inadvertently overheated the original braid and it broke off from the tab anyway. If you can do #1 in one or two tries, you might be ok. If not, I could not tell any functional or fitment issues with both new braids routed across the back. Also, try not to use too much solder, as it will make the braid very difficult to bend to where you want it to go.
3. I used 320 grit sandpaper and did 80 2-count (front then back = 1 count), 3 inch strokes to get the brush to fit in the slot perfectly.
4. THE MOST IMPORTANT - These brushes are about 1-2mm too long. I tried getting the damn motor back into the housing for 45 minutes or so before I realized that the brushes would not push back into the housing far enough for the rotor to fit back into the housing properly. The best thing to do (before you put yours back together) is to get a dremel with the small round grinder and grind out about a mm or so from the brush, following the same rounded contour already on the end of the brush. If you grind off more than a couple of mm from each brush, don't worry - there is plenty of material on the brush (just compare the length of the new one to your old brush and you'll see what I mean). If you don't take enough off, you will not be able to get it reassembled. Trust me - I know.
Lastly, my motor sounds like something from the Terminator now. It's smooth, but mush more "electric motor" sounding than before. I think that once the new brushes get broken in it will quiet down a bit.
Good luck!
02-18-2012, 01:03 PM
#127
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02-21-2012, 03:52 PM
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+1 to Huyrua for the brushes.
I did everything just as everyone else has been doing them and my motor works great, but it will work and then stop working randomly. Its not like it was before where it would struggle to get the window up, but it just seems like an electrical issue i didnt have before. The solders are not touch the other prongs and is a good solid solder. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
I did everything just as everyone else has been doing them and my motor works great, but it will work and then stop working randomly. Its not like it was before where it would struggle to get the window up, but it just seems like an electrical issue i didnt have before. The solders are not touch the other prongs and is a good solid solder. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
02-21-2012, 08:08 PM
#129
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Thanks for the added info to the post!
+1 to Huyrua for the brushes.
I did everything just as everyone else has been doing them and my motor works great, but it will work and then stop working randomly. Its not like it was before where it would struggle to get the window up, but it just seems like an electrical issue i didnt have before. The solders are not touch the other prongs and is a good solid solder. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
I did everything just as everyone else has been doing them and my motor works great, but it will work and then stop working randomly. Its not like it was before where it would struggle to get the window up, but it just seems like an electrical issue i didnt have before. The solders are not touch the other prongs and is a good solid solder. Does anyone have any advice? Thanks
02-26-2012, 06:59 PM
#131
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It won't go up or down sometimes because the brushes (what we replace) are not making contact with the armature in order to transfer electricity and cause the motor to spin. Solution: new brushes.
03-01-2012, 06:34 PM
#134
I just wanted to add a bit of information to help people out.
The "gooey stuff" is paraffin based. SAVE IT; roll it in a ball as you pull it out with a pick/whatever you use. When you're done resoldering, put little ***** of the paraffin back into and around your soldering job, and use your soldering iron to melt it back underneath, around and above your job.
Resealed; just like factory.
The "gooey stuff" is paraffin based. SAVE IT; roll it in a ball as you pull it out with a pick/whatever you use. When you're done resoldering, put little ***** of the paraffin back into and around your soldering job, and use your soldering iron to melt it back underneath, around and above your job.
Resealed; just like factory.
03-03-2012, 09:07 AM
#135
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I just wanted to add a bit of information to help people out.
The "gooey stuff" is paraffin based. SAVE IT; roll it in a ball as you pull it out with a pick/whatever you use. When you're done resoldering, put little ***** of the paraffin back into and around your soldering job, and use your soldering iron to melt it back underneath, around and above your job.
Resealed; just like factory.
The "gooey stuff" is paraffin based. SAVE IT; roll it in a ball as you pull it out with a pick/whatever you use. When you're done resoldering, put little ***** of the paraffin back into and around your soldering job, and use your soldering iron to melt it back underneath, around and above your job.
Resealed; just like factory.
There might be some variations depending year or model because mine was definitely not like paraffin. We use paraffin in the office for a deep heat modality and this stuff was different. It was nasty. I would give it a shot though.
03-03-2012, 11:04 AM
#136
03-10-2012, 09:46 AM
#138
So, I am curious, anybody started a little business doing this? Because as many things as I do on my car, I never been a solder kind of guy, so... Of course, thats basically what Cardone does, but I figure maybe somebody here would put the "love" of doing it right into it... 
03-18-2012, 09:37 AM
#140