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There's actually a special adapter that you use on the jack pad that straddles the weld flange. I made my own out of some 4"x4"x1" hard rubber blocks. I cut a 1/4" groove across the face of one side of the block. That groove slides over the weld flange and I place the jack under the pad and lift from there.
In the diagram above, the "garage jack points" are where you can put a floor jack for lifting an end of the car. The rear is no problem, the front requires you to drive up on a small ramp to be able to fit a floor jack under the car.
For me, it just depends on what I'm going to be doing. Sometimes I use the side lift points, sometimes the center points.
Just don't forget to use jackstands. That's where the rubber blocks come in handy too. You can also buy adapters for jackstands that fit over the weld flange.
__________________ 2004.5 Daytona Blue Track ... Gone
Wow it doesn't look like it's that long from the pictures. May have to invest in one of those.
This one has worked well for me. Doesn't lift "high up" but high enough to get under the engine and do any required work. Further, it slides just far enough in to fit right under the center jack point w/o any special finagling. Of course - always use jackstands too and don't trust a car w/ a jack alone (honestly I don't even trust jackstands and typically place addiitonal support under parts of the vehicle): http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-h...ack-67045.html