350z Annoying Rear Rattle Noise - Fix
#21
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If you assign a number to each of the pieces in your second picture, 1 to 7, from left to right - the KYB kit includes #'s 3, 5, and 6, including the metal tube inside piece #3.
In other words, the top and bottom rubber bushings, the metal tube, and top washer. As mentioned in post #21, you should also replace the gasket between the oval metal mount and the car's body. The ones in my '08 were toast, and Nissan probably sells them. but I fabricated my own out of some old rubber inner tube material I had around.
In other words, the top and bottom rubber bushings, the metal tube, and top washer. As mentioned in post #21, you should also replace the gasket between the oval metal mount and the car's body. The ones in my '08 were toast, and Nissan probably sells them. but I fabricated my own out of some old rubber inner tube material I had around.
#22
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If you assign a number to each of the pieces in your second picture, 1 to 7, from left to right - the KYB kit includes #'s 3, 5, and 6, including the metal tube inside piece #3.
In other words, the top and bottom rubber bushings, the metal tube, and top washer. As mentioned in post #21, you should also replace the gasket between the oval metal mount and the car's body. The ones in my '08 were toast, and Nissan probably sells them. but I fabricated my own out of some old rubber inner tube material I had around.
In other words, the top and bottom rubber bushings, the metal tube, and top washer. As mentioned in post #21, you should also replace the gasket between the oval metal mount and the car's body. The ones in my '08 were toast, and Nissan probably sells them. but I fabricated my own out of some old rubber inner tube material I had around.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...e-for-4-a.html
#23
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Thank you all so much for this post. I replaced my rear hatch springs, hatch struts, had taken out my spare, jack assembly and was about to swap out the whole hatch-lock assembly (yes, it's that annoying!!) before finally figuring out it was the rear struts that were making the noise, lol. I purchased the KYB kit, new gaskets from Courtesy, and new washers, as well, just to be safe. I'll post an update next week, and hopefully my ride will be quiet, as new!!!
#24
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I was in the same boat trying to identify where the noise was coming from. I would have sworn it was the rear hatch or the plastic pieces in the trunk. It's been cold as hell here in Pittsburgh, which is when the noise was most noticeable and still nothing.
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#25
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#26
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55338 is the gasket that's not included in the KYB kit. I'm sure you could go to advanced and pick up something similar. You just need something to seal out the elements and to stop metal on metal friction. I used an old beer cuzzi because the stores were all closed when I started. Super easy job, just follow the DIY.
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Last edited by The Burgh; 12-20-2013 at 08:34 AM.
#27
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ok so i replaced the bad gasket with a homemade cutout from valve packing, coated everything with white lithium grease spray, and I used the KYB parts (but I couldnt use the 3rd part since it was too big). I am still hearing the squeaking from my back. I did some more research, and people suggested changing the end links, but thats not a certainity.
crap, has anyone had this problem and it wasnt solved by changing the gaskets?
crap, has anyone had this problem and it wasnt solved by changing the gaskets?
#29
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damnit. then what could be causing squeaks from the rear?
edit: i read that for whatever reason, a sign of going bad end links is changing the setting from hard to medium, and then seeing if the squeaks persist. I cant remember what mine is at, but this is a good and FREE way to troubleshoot first.
edit: i read that for whatever reason, a sign of going bad end links is changing the setting from hard to medium, and then seeing if the squeaks persist. I cant remember what mine is at, but this is a good and FREE way to troubleshoot first.
Last edited by Rev_Night; 12-21-2013 at 02:53 PM.
#30
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Rev_Night. I had the same problem with the part being too big, couldn't screw the nut on. Then i realized you have to flip the top bushing around so the metal cylinder slides into the bottom, which gives it enough room to screw the nut on. That top bushing could still be your problem. Good luck.
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#31
Question:
I'm assuming this is more of an irritant than a safety issue, but just how much of a safety issue is this if I decide to drive it a while with the rattle?
Thanks.
I'm assuming this is more of an irritant than a safety issue, but just how much of a safety issue is this if I decide to drive it a while with the rattle?
Thanks.
#32
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i removed the dried out orange gasket thing and made one out of heavy Feldpro gasket paper. Also used dielectric grease on the OEM rubber stop and knock on wood, no noise for over a year now (2006 model)
#33
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I just fixed my annoying rear squeak with the KYO SM5482 bushing. The bushing kit is a little bigger than the one that is stock, it's correct though. The only thing i would like to add is the rubber gasket that sits on the top mounting plate of the shock bracket was worn. It looked like a piece of bacon. This rubber gasket is not supplied with the kit. I had to improvise with some rubber foam material that was laying around. It's a good idea to replace the gasket when doing the bushings. Best $35 I've spent in a while.
My car is completely silent now!!!
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My car is completely silent now!!!
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Regarding the bushings (KYB SM5842 Kit), not all the parts could be used on my KW Variant 2. I The parts supplied would be much taller than the OEM when stacked together. We ended up just swapping the top bushing (which looks much larger than stock and had a metal disk already) and the cylinder. Didn't use the oem disk at the very top as that top bushing already had a disk melded in.
Apparently when replacing the bushings, we noticed that one side of my car didn't even have a gasket anymore and the side that had a gasket, it was all dried up and crisp. I think the clunking noise I had was due to the gaskets mostly and probably not the bushings but who knows. Still have slight squeaking on very bumpy roads, but probably will tackle those in a while.
Last edited by Deteria; 04-15-2014 at 09:22 AM.
#35
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KYB shock mount kit for the WIN.!
I went through a lot of stages here. Initially I thought it was the hatch so I tried the latch reposition trick, which was great because now my hatch clicks tight. Didn't fix the sound though.
https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...attle-fix.html
Then I tried the pennies in the hatch springs trick which was great because it fixed the need to press the hatch button twice to open the trunk.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-easy-fix.html
Didn't fix the sound though.
Then I started reading about the lame OEM shock mounts and it all started making sense. Any noise or knocking travelling from the shock to the body would amplify through the rear. I bought the 2 shock mount kits and installed them fairly easily. Used this as a guide
Now it's as silent as lambs. Oh p.s. I removed that dried out crappy gasket from the top mount and re-made a new one with gasket material as well.
Thanks my350 for the info!
I went through a lot of stages here. Initially I thought it was the hatch so I tried the latch reposition trick, which was great because now my hatch clicks tight. Didn't fix the sound though.
https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...attle-fix.html
Then I tried the pennies in the hatch springs trick which was great because it fixed the need to press the hatch button twice to open the trunk.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-easy-fix.html
Didn't fix the sound though.
Then I started reading about the lame OEM shock mounts and it all started making sense. Any noise or knocking travelling from the shock to the body would amplify through the rear. I bought the 2 shock mount kits and installed them fairly easily. Used this as a guide
Now it's as silent as lambs. Oh p.s. I removed that dried out crappy gasket from the top mount and re-made a new one with gasket material as well.
Thanks my350 for the info!
#37
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went the same way yesterday and it worked perfectly!
the weather is rather cold - it's +5'C outside - and no rattling and clunking at all!!!
I'd like to thank everyone for useful information!
by the way, thats how the OEM gasket looked like:
the weather is rather cold - it's +5'C outside - and no rattling and clunking at all!!!
I'd like to thank everyone for useful information!
by the way, thats how the OEM gasket looked like:
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photo2u (01-30-2018)
#38
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350z Annoying Rear Rattle Noise - Fix
Ok I just bought a 2008 350Z with 46K on it, in excellent shape. When I test drove it, I was on a completely smooth road so no noise, but boy the next morning heading into work as the original poster said " it was like driving around with aluminum cans in the back of the car". So I did a google search for "rattle in the back of 350Z" and was lead to My350Z.com and this thread. Today I put in the KYB SM5482 kit on both sides, simple, took about 2 hours total. Lubed everything with white lithium, made a upper "shock to body" gasket out of Felpro gasket material and the noise is COMPLETELY GONE. $30.00 , cant beat that!!
#39
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How about this mounting kit for my '07? The reviews down below on this link it mention this exact issue and it sounds like a good mounting kit.
Last edited by BigBlue; 04-25-2015 at 04:20 PM.
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dani3ln3al (11-04-2015)
#40
How about this mounting kit for my '07? The reviews down below on this link it mention this exact issue and it sounds like a good mounting kit.
Amazon.com: KYB SM5482 Shock Mount kit: Automotive
Amazon.com: KYB SM5482 Shock Mount kit: Automotive