Water Pump $$$
#1
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Water Pump $$$
I just got an estimate to replace my waterpump and thermostat on my 2005 z of $650 does that seem fair. I can't find the labor rates or hours for the repair but do know that OEM waterpump is about $125
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MySexyAzz350z (12-14-2020)
#2
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The water pump is inside the timing cover since it's driven by the timing chain. It's a pretty big job getting to it. The thermostat assembly bolts to the front of the engine, and is much easier to replace.
What makes you think the water pump is bad? I don't recall seeing many problems with the WP on this forum.
What makes you think the water pump is bad? I don't recall seeing many problems with the WP on this forum.
#4
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Thread Starter
The water pump is inside the timing cover since it's driven by the timing chain. It's a pretty big job getting to it. The thermostat assembly bolts to the front of the engine, and is much easier to replace.
What makes you think the water pump is bad? I don't recall seeing many problems with the WP on this forum.
What makes you think the water pump is bad? I don't recall seeing many problems with the WP on this forum.
#6
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What was the nature of the breakdown?
If it simply overheated, it's most likely air in the system, cooling fans not running, blocked fins on the radiator, or the thermostat. All those are relatively easy and inexpensive to fix.
Like I said earlier, the WP is deep inside the engine. It's very unlikely that the pump impeller or drive sprocket failed. The only other things are the bearing and the seals, and you'd have noise and water in the oil if those failed.
The quote of $650 sounds reasonable if they actually replace the WP and the thermostat assembly, but I'd like to know more about why they say they need to replace the pump before letting them work on the car.
If it simply overheated, it's most likely air in the system, cooling fans not running, blocked fins on the radiator, or the thermostat. All those are relatively easy and inexpensive to fix.
Like I said earlier, the WP is deep inside the engine. It's very unlikely that the pump impeller or drive sprocket failed. The only other things are the bearing and the seals, and you'd have noise and water in the oil if those failed.
The quote of $650 sounds reasonable if they actually replace the WP and the thermostat assembly, but I'd like to know more about why they say they need to replace the pump before letting them work on the car.
Last edited by winchman; 07-07-2011 at 02:19 AM.
#7
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Replacing the water pump and thermostat on a 350Z is a pretty intensive job that isn't for a mechanical novice. It took me a few water pump jobs before I became relatively proficient at the whole gig and I work on all varieties of Nissans on a weekly basis. With that said, most of the $650 price quote derives from the labour charge. The M.S.R.P. for an OEM 350Z water pump is $118.85 and an OEM thermostat runs $23.75. That brings the total up to about $156 after taxes so the remaining $500 reserved for labour charges seems a bit excessive to me..
If I were you then I would score these OEM parts from nissanpartszone.com because they offer the exact same water pump and thermostat for $86.14 and $17.93, respectively. Remember that these are OEM parts and not sketchy refurbished parts.
If you are not forced to endure the stealership's wrath due to time constraints then shop around man- there are bargains to be had!
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#8
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After reading through the SM steps for replacing the WP, five hours at $100 each (That's about right for dealership labor, isn't it?) seems reasonable to me. It may even be on the low side. There's a LOT of stuff to do, and you want ALL of it done right.
I'm still concerned that the WP doesn't really need to be replaced. Maybe techtalk can tell us if it's common for the WP to go bad and what the failure modes are.
I'm still concerned that the WP doesn't really need to be replaced. Maybe techtalk can tell us if it's common for the WP to go bad and what the failure modes are.
#9
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i was asking my old roommate/toyota master tech, about maintenance for 70,000 miles. I asked about the water pump we googled it then i showed him a picture of the engine layout and his jaw dropped...all VQ's are chain driven which should require no maintenance...such as the fuel filter(in tank). I realize that it is a wear/tear item, but its "non serviceable", which i take as...NOT A EASY DIY.
Did they pull ECU codes? If so what were they?
Did they call you and tell you what it needed?
Do YOU have a high end car that they saw you drive up to the shop?
ITS 2011! You can see money walking down the street everyday
OP since your in charlotte check out CIN motorsports. its right off of 16/Brookeshire, near 85. They will give you the right information you need.
Where in charlotte? im near tega cay/carowinds/south side
Did they pull ECU codes? If so what were they?
Did they call you and tell you what it needed?
Do YOU have a high end car that they saw you drive up to the shop?
ITS 2011! You can see money walking down the street everyday
OP since your in charlotte check out CIN motorsports. its right off of 16/Brookeshire, near 85. They will give you the right information you need.
Where in charlotte? im near tega cay/carowinds/south side
Last edited by Zing!; 07-12-2011 at 03:33 PM.
#10
I changed the waterpump its fairly easy depending on year. Remove the access to the chain tensioner put an allen key in the hole remove two bolts from tensioner and take out the tensioner then turn crankshaft 20degrees counter clockwise this will loosen chain from pump then remove three bolts from pump use two 50mm m8 bolts to pop out pump install new pump torque 80 turn crankshaft back install chain tensioner bleed system! Its essential.
#11
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I know this is a very old post but I came here because I felt i was going to miss a step and google landed me here first but i need to add onto Ortega's post because he forgot to mention the most important part of turning that crank to loosen. Only contributing to be sure others who may eventually end up here will have this initial step(Yes old post but useful).
BEFORE YOU REACH UNDER AND START REMOVING THE TENSIONER, DO THESE STEPS FIRST...
<b>Make sure you are at top dead center</b>
1. Remove the #1 spark plug (Facing engine, left side, coil closest to you).
2. Turn the crank CLOCKWISE slowly until you hear air push out of the plug hole
3. Look at your pulley and continue to turn until you line up the timing marks(You should be TDC)
4. Now you can take off the tensioner side plate and insert a small allen key in the tensioner hole to lock it in it's place.(Have a magnetic rod on hand to help prevent dropping any bolts or the allen key in the timing cover or welcome to your next 3 days of hell).
5. Remove plate from the otherside for the water pump and Remove the bolts from the tensioner on the other side, then remove the tensioner.
6. Turn the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE only a mere 5 degrees just enough to loosen the chain on the water pump side (The other cover opposite). You don't want to turn too far because you will "pop the cams" and you will have to remove the cover and line up the cams at that point you are up s creek so turn until you see enough slack on the w/p to remove.
7. Remove the 3 bolts to the water pump
8. Clean the mating surface really well for the new pump.
9. Shoot a little PB into the weeping hole to clear any dust or other gunk.
10. Insert new pump and install the bolts.
11. Insert the tensioner(LEAVING THE ALLEN KEY IN), install the bolts.
12. Go back clockwise to tighten the chain back up
13. Verify both side are tight(A light PRESS will suffice)
14. Remove the allen key so it will lock the guide back to the chain
15. Spin slowly just for peace of mind to assure everything is in tight working order.
16. Install the plates, re-insert the belts and fire her up
Good time if you haven't done so to go ahead and replace the thermostat while you're under there. Nothing close to replacing the pump but mind as well 2 for 1 it while available.
BEFORE YOU REACH UNDER AND START REMOVING THE TENSIONER, DO THESE STEPS FIRST...
<b>Make sure you are at top dead center</b>
1. Remove the #1 spark plug (Facing engine, left side, coil closest to you).
2. Turn the crank CLOCKWISE slowly until you hear air push out of the plug hole
3. Look at your pulley and continue to turn until you line up the timing marks(You should be TDC)
4. Now you can take off the tensioner side plate and insert a small allen key in the tensioner hole to lock it in it's place.(Have a magnetic rod on hand to help prevent dropping any bolts or the allen key in the timing cover or welcome to your next 3 days of hell).
5. Remove plate from the otherside for the water pump and Remove the bolts from the tensioner on the other side, then remove the tensioner.
6. Turn the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE only a mere 5 degrees just enough to loosen the chain on the water pump side (The other cover opposite). You don't want to turn too far because you will "pop the cams" and you will have to remove the cover and line up the cams at that point you are up s creek so turn until you see enough slack on the w/p to remove.
7. Remove the 3 bolts to the water pump
8. Clean the mating surface really well for the new pump.
9. Shoot a little PB into the weeping hole to clear any dust or other gunk.
10. Insert new pump and install the bolts.
11. Insert the tensioner(LEAVING THE ALLEN KEY IN), install the bolts.
12. Go back clockwise to tighten the chain back up
13. Verify both side are tight(A light PRESS will suffice)
14. Remove the allen key so it will lock the guide back to the chain
15. Spin slowly just for peace of mind to assure everything is in tight working order.
16. Install the plates, re-insert the belts and fire her up
Good time if you haven't done so to go ahead and replace the thermostat while you're under there. Nothing close to replacing the pump but mind as well 2 for 1 it while available.
Last edited by ZedFed; 09-11-2016 at 03:32 AM.
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